plastic vacuum hoses

hey yall hope eveyones doing well and getting your bronco ready to show off in the spring time . they are all classics now no matter what year you have...........ok so anyway when I was changing my plugs and wires I moved the plastic tube that has all the vacuum hoses inside of it on the right side of the engine and all the plastic vacuum hoses started crumbling in my hand. .I got some rubber hose and started removing the old ones and replacing them  but the colors on the old ones are so faded  I cant make heads or tails which one goes where. every hose I moved just fell into pieces. now when I start the truck  no ck.engine light is on but after a mile or so  the light comes on. but the truck is running fine. . does anyone have a diagram for the routing of all the hoses ..my truck is a 95 full size 5.8 with a/c......thanks mike

Yo Mike.

Call local Ford dealer parts and ask for it. Up until about 2 yrs ago Ford had them on-line for free.

This Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 93 5.8 Bronco;

Source: by bronco5.8 (Sam) is a good guide:

http://broncozone.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=10584

& IN A 94 5.8 Bronco;

Combine with my vacuum leak test in post #20 that includes pics for the components shown in the diagram as well Acronyms & abbreviations @ http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/?p=125535

thanks again as always miesk 5

ok so just an update on the hoses...about a week before my hoses started crumbling in my hand my ck. eng light would come on after driving about a half mile or so . I replaced all the vacuum hoses with no problem but my ck eng.light still comes on after driving about a half mile or so . every time I hook up the code reader and it starts preforming the tests when in the mode where the engine starts to rev   the ck eng light goes OUT!  I'm really lost this time . the truck is running fine otherwise......help please....im like really getting ready to get rid of this truck . then to top that issue off I come out of the store and I notice the shaft that goes through the frame on the top and that goes through the sway bar  with threads  and rubber bushing on the bottom has broke in half inside the rubber bushings  . I'm not sure what the piece is called its about 12 inchs long..........thanks mike

Yo Mike,

A test of the EEC system is conducted with the engine running. The sensors are checked under actual operating conditions and at normal operating temperatures. The actuators are exercised and checked for expected results. So you will here sone clicking as they perform their calisthenics. The CEL should go out until:

Engine Identification Codes (ID Codes)

Engine ID codes are issued at the beginning of the Engine Running Self-Test and are one-digit numbers represented by the number of pulses sent out. For gasoline engines, the engine ID code is equal to one-half the number of engine cylinders (i.e. 2 pulses = 4 cylinders). For the 7.3L Diesel engine, the ID code = 5. These codes are used to verify the proper PCM is installed and that the Self-Test has been entered.

Dynamic Response Check

The dynamic response check is used on some applications to verify operation of the TP, MAF, MAP and KS sensors during the brief Wide-Open Throttle (WOT) performed during the Engine Running Self-Test. The signal for the operator to perform the brief WOT is a single pulse or 10 code on the STAR Tester.

Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch Test

On vehicles equipped with Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, the steering wheel must be turned one-half turn and released AFTER the ID Code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the PSP switch.

Brake On/Off Test

On vehicles equipped with Brake On/Off (BOO) input, the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID Code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the Brakelamp Switch.

Transmission Control Switch (TCS) Test

On vehicles equipped with E4OD TCS, the switch must be cycled after the ID code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the TCS.

Have you previously used this reader?

Read koer procedure by BronvcoJoe

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded

...

Scan Tool Won't Initiate Self-Test Due to Poor Grounds, Corroded Wiring, etc.;



Source: by Jeremy M (Big '92, jermil01)

...

For that 12" section that broke, can u pick it out from this diagram?

I am guessing its the Front Stabilizer Bar (sway bar) Link; hereare pics by rugerp89ipsc:







If it is, remove it. Or purchase what you need from a yard queen or parts store.

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/f7714c.gif

Item Part Number Description

1 5K483 Front Stabilizer Bar Link

2 N620482-S36 Nut, M12 x 1.75 Hex ******

3 5482 Front Stabilizer Bar

4 3B353 Retainer, Stabilizer Bar, Front

5 5484 Insulator, Stabilizer Bar, Front

6 N806789-S2 Bolt and Retainer, M10-1.5 x 33.5 Hex

7 N605704-S2 Bolt, M12-1.75 x 65 Hex

8 N620469-S2 Nut, M12 x 1.75

9 N801527-S2 Washer, 13 x 34 x 2.5

A —Tighten to 72-108 Nm (53-79 Lb-Ft)

B —Tighten to 34-46 Nm (25-34 Lb-Ft)

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/f2856p.gif

Item Part Number Description

1 3B008 Steering Rod Link

2 800895 Nut

3 642569 Cotter Pin

4 380288 Steering Cap

5 801079 Bolt

6 3002 Axle

7 5019 Front Crossmember

8 620604 Nut

9 802073 Nut

10 802114 Bolt

11 802246 Bolt

12 802073 Nut

13 620604 Nut

14 801079 Bolt

15 3K090 Front Axle Bearing Bracket

16 802210 Bolt

17 3B183 Radius Arm Bracket

18 800937 Nut

19 34922 Nut

20 379572 Washer

21 2B463 Shield (RH Only)

22 3A184 Outer Insulator

23 3B244 Spacer

24 3B203 Front Insulator

25 3B186 Front Retainer

26 3405 Radius Arm

27 N805348 Nut and Washer

28 18198 Insulator

29 5B315 Spring and Shock Bracket

30 18124 Front Shock Absorber

31 620468 Nut

32 620469 Nut

33 18126 Shock Bracket

34 805033 Bolt

35 3405 Radius Arm

36 605921 Bolt

37 58740 Bolt

38 3B446 Front Axle Radius Arm Bracket

39 40954 Bolt (2 Req'd)

40 390678 Stud

41 5B316 Lower Spring Seat

42 5414 Front Spring Insulator

43 5A349 Retainer

44 388833 Nut

45 5310 Front Coil Spring

46 5A333 Upper Retainer

47 40949 Bolt

A —Tighten to 71-100 Nm (52-74 Lb-Ft)

B —Tighten to 18-24 Nm (13-18 Lb-Ft)

C —Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-33 Lb-Ft)

D — Tighten to 60-81 Nm (49-59 Lb-Ft)

E —Tighten to 434-461 Nm (320-340 Lb-Ft)

F —Tighten to 26-34 Nm (19-25 Lb-Ft)

G —Tighten to 326-352 Nm (240-260 Lb-Ft)

H —Tighten to 94-134 Nm (70-100 Lb-Ft)

J —Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-33 Lb-Ft)

K —Tighten to 113-153 Nm (84-112 Lb-Ft)

L —Tighten to 213-287 Nm (157-211 Lb-Ft)

M —Tighten to 104-148 Nm (77-109 Lb-Ft)

...,

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/g8989b.gif

Item Part Number Description

1 3A131 Tie Rod Ball Stud

2 3310 Front Wheel Spindle Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve

3 3304 Steering Sector Shaft Arm Drag Link

4 — Drag Link Ball Stud (Part of 3304)

5 3A131 Tie Rod

6 N800895-S56 Nut

7 3590 Steering Gear Sector Shaft Arm

A — Tighten to 70-100 Nm (51-73 Lb-Ft)

...

Or snap a pic

thanks for your help again.....rock auto has the sway bar link and bushings for 17 bucks and it includes the bushings as for the ck eng. light the code is coming up 632  I know the egr is working  and I replaced the green plastic hose with a rubber one and hooked it from the egr directly to the vacuum port where it came out of on the left side of the engine back by the fire wall........thanks mike

Yo Mike,

Good & YW!

632, Overdrive cancel switch did not change state during KOER; is possibly the result of the test being done incorrectly. When you do a KOER test, you need to press the switch; if you did cycle the switch, Possible Causes:

Switch is damaged.

Shorted harness.

Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

Open harness or fuse.

o ok I see what your saying now. I know for a fact my o/d button is working the. light goes on when depressed and I feel the surge and the rpm;s rise when I switch it on  while driving  I didn't know I was suppose to depress it  when doing the KOEO.........was talking to a guy today that told me usually if your c.e.l. doesn't go on and stay on when you start the truck but goes on after you start driving about a half mile or so  its usually a sign of  a vacuum leak some where. he told me how to perform  a vacuum test using propane gas  or starting fluid.   with the engine cold and running spray starting fluid over the vacuum hoses and the ports  and you will notice a change in the sound of the engine if  a vacuum leak is present. and of course safety first ill have my fire extinguisher at hand..............thanks again for all your help

Yo,

YW!

Yes, propane is good, as well your friend's info.

See my vacuum leak test link that I posted in post #2 above.

It shows often overlooked spots such as the air injection valves behind intake manifold and HVVAC System in engine bay and in cab.

GL!

i will be sure too check it out .thanks