Battery Drain! Fuse 12 is drawing power when truck is off. Please

So I been having a battery drain on my Bronco. It's been a pain, I replaced the alternator and bought a new battery, the voltage regulator was fried and cooked the battery. Anyways.... my battery has been dying slowly, I did a draw test and fuse 12 is pulling 3 amps when installed, I pulled it for now but now I need help diagnosing the different systems. The fuse controls power door locks that have been non working for about a week now, the electronic shift control 4wd, idk what that is, but I have manual hubs and inside I can still use the electronic 4wd button even tho the fuse has been removed, the fuse controls the lumbar which the switch on the seats still work even tho the fuse has been removed, and the key hole for the tailgate, I have never used this bc I don't have the key, if someone can please help me out here this is a little screwy why some of these still work even when the fuse is removed.

Also just a quick added note when I put the fuse in I hear a loud "click" in the front of the vehicle, it's coming from under the radiator fluid tank right behind the headlight there a module there but idk what it is, and when I keep the fuse in and start the truck it click every couple of mins or so,

Yo jasindude1,

1993, correct?

If so;

#12 is a circuit breaker: can you verify the # again?

electronic shift control 4wd, is for your Electronic Shift on-the-fly Transfer case.

How long have you had this Bronco? Any chance that a previous owner got into the wiring?

The module under the combo ws washer fluid/coolant recovery tank if the 4WABS Control Module that is powered by fuses 2, 5, 8 & 17

It is #12 CB, I have had the Bronco a little over a week. There is no evidence of anyone getting into the wiring besides to install an aftermarket stereo, the owner did tell me about the battery drain, but he didn't know what it was. When I remove the 12 fuse/cb I hear the module make a click noise under the hood, the 4wheel abs module. The lumbar still works, the 4x4 shift on the dash still works, but the power locks failed, the power locks worked for a little bit but then just went out and I have never used the keyhole for the rear window bc I don't have the key so idk if that works or not. its just odd that all the items that the cb are supposed to provide power to still work with it not installed.

I did fail to mention the Abs light is on on the dash, I didn't think it was relivent but I guess it could be

On mine it shows 15 and 13 control the ABS system

Yo,

Took me an hour to log in.

Here is the 4WABS wiring diagram

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8624

showing;

17 fuse for dash indicator light

13 Brake on/off switch

Others are ****-fuses in Power Distribution Box in engine bay, drivers side on drive end of air filter box.

Wire harness may be pinched/shorted on steering column support behind the dash where the wire assy may come in contact w/a sharp edge on dash panel wall, I had a short here too & caused E4OD's TCIL (OD switch-LED) to blink like a friggin pia;

Check for wiring changes made @ base of B Pillar on drivers side. See http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/k20739a.gif

Item Part Number Description

1 14A504 Wiring Assembly

2 381801-S55X *****

3 — To Seat Belt Retractor Switch

4 — To Courtesy Lamp Switch

5 — To LH Cowl and Instrument Panel

6 — To 14B084 Power Lumbar

7 — To LH Rear Speaker

8 — To RH Rear Speaker

...

PDL wiring diagram @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=36303

Harness & Connector Location & Removal from Door in 92-96;



The passenger door harness disconnects inside that kick panel. But the driver door harness is continuous from the door lock motor all the way over to those passenger connectors. Either pull the dash, or disconnect everything inside the driver door, and then feed the harness out of it as you remove the door. I'd just unbolt the hinges & hang them both from a beam across the roof of the truck, leaving the wiring connected. By SeattleFSB

...

I can't see any correlation between the lumber working with CB out and 4wheel abs module clicking & PDL inop.

You may need to see an automotive electrical shop.

...



Key Lock Cylinder can be replaced and key made by locksmith.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/n8412b.gif

It is held in-place by a common flat U shaped clip

See more tailgate info @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12689-2

...

Yo,

Another PDL wiring diagram for you 93 as revised by Ford in Technical Service Bulletin 94-24B-75, PWR DOOR LOCK SWITCH SCHEMATICS (RH) - S/M REV

@

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=40268

Will continue seeking a fix tomorrow.

So we found the draw, here is what it is, we double and triple checked and are 100% certain this is the issue. The clicking noise came from the AC clutch engaging, when the **** is set to vent, defrost or ac it will engage the clutch with the vehicle off, this is what was drawing the power, when the **** is set to off there is no engaging of the clutch and no power draw. I find it incredibly strange that this was somehow tied in fuse 12 CB. So now I need help tracking down the ac clutch engaging with the vehicle off.

So, I have been chasing a parasitic draw on my truck, I have tracked it down with 100% certainty but now need help to fix the issue. Just a quick recap I did a draw test, it was fuse/circuit breaker 12 that was causing the draw, it was strange I kept hearing a clicking noise every time I would put the fuse back. Anyways we found that when the AC **** is turned to mix, defrost AC and AC max the AC clutch engages with the truck off, but when u set the **** to off the clutch doesn't engage and no power is drawn. So now I need help trying to figure out the issue, I have looked and the relays and there is not an AC replay, but something is causing it to engage if I shut off the truck but leave the **** turned to AC. Anyone else have this issue? Anyone have a wiring diagram I could follow,? Any help would be greatly appreciated

Yo,

Wow, ok!

Wiring diagram showing ac clutch coil in 93 Bronco

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8623

Fuse 8

With selector switch in off position with engine running, check purple wire (P) for batty power, if yes, then suspect switch.

The FS-10 A/C compressor (19703) is used on all F-Series and Bronco vehicles.

An A/C clutch (2884) is energized when the A/C cycling switch (19E561), located on the suction accumulator/drier (19C836), closes. The closing of the A/C cycling switch completes the circuit to the A/C clutch and draws it into engagement with the compressor driveshaft.

When the A/C cycling switch is closed and the control ****/lever is set at MAX A/C, NORM A/C, or either of the settings calling for full or partial defroster operation, the A/C compressor will be operating. (A/C compressor operation during defrost is provided to minimize humidity in the passenger compartment.) The A/C compressor is mounted on the side of the engine and is driven by a drive belt (8620) . Tension adjustment is obtained by means of an automatic tensioner (gasoline engines) or by moving the compressor braces away from the engine (diesel engines).

Clutch, Compressor Test in a 92; The a/c clutch is an electromagnet the locks the clutch plate to the pulley. If you have voltage at the power side of the clutch connector and a good ground through the other side of the connector the clutch should work, Test the clutch side of the connector with an ohmmeter, There is no spec in the book but I would guess around 50 ohms.

Yo,

I replied a few secs ago at http://broncozone.com/topic/25740-battery-drain-fuse-12-is-drawing-power-when-truck-is-off-please-help/?do=findComment&comment=135457

But you wrote there, "So we found the draw, here is what it is, we double and triple checked and are 100% certain this is the issue. The clicking noise came from the AC clutch engaging, when the **** is set to vent, defrost or ac it will engage the clutch with the vehicle off, this is what was drawing the power, when the **** is set to off there is no engaging of the clutch and no power draw. I find it incredibly strange that this was somehow tied in fuse 12 CB. So now I need help tracking down the ac clutch engaging with the vehicle off."

So now, read what I wrote there, especially, An A/C clutch (2884) is energized when the A/C cycling switch (19E561), located on the suction accumulator/drier (19C836), closes. The closing of the A/C cycling switch completes the circuit to the A/C clutch and draws it into engagement with the compressor driveshaft."

*** FOR now, SUSPECT The A/C cycling switch. ***

The A/C cycling switch is mounted on a Schrader valve fitting on the side of the suction accumulator/drier assembly. A valve depressor, located inside the threaded end of the A/C cycling switch, presses in on the Schrader valve stem as the A/C cycling switch is mounted and allows the suction pressure inside the suction accumulator/drier housing to activate the A/C cycling switch. The electrical contacts will open when the suction pressure drops to 163-175 kPa (23.5-25.5 psi). They will close, activating the A/C clutch (2884), when the suction pressure rises to 276-324 kPa (40-47 psi). Lower ambient temperatures (below approximately 1°C (30°F) during cold weather seasons will also prevent A/C compressor operation, because of the pressure/temperature relationship of the refrigerant in the system.

NOTE: Temperature must drop to -4°C (25°F) to open pressure switch contacts. Contacts open at approximately -4°C (25°F) decreasing and close increasing 7.2-10°C (45-50°F).

The electrical contacts control the electrical circuit to the A/C clutch field coil. When the contacts are closed, the A/C clutch field coil is energized and the A/C clutch is engaged to drive the A/C compressor. When the contacts are open, the A/C clutch field coil is de-energized, the A/C clutch is disengaged and the A/C compressor does not operate. The A/C cycling switch, when functioning properly, will control the pressure at a point where the plate-fin surface temperature of the A/C evaporator core will be maintained slightly above freezing which prevents icing and the blockage of airflow.

Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch Connector Location in Engine Bay Diagram in a 95

Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB)

@

Switch depiction:

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/m2748d.gif

Item Part Number Description

1 19C836 Suction Accumulator/Drier

2 19E561 A/C Cycling Switch

3 19D734 A/C Manifold and Tube

4 19D607 A/C Accumulator Bracket

So the cycle switch is what engages the clutch? But why would the clutch engage with the vehicle off? Somehow that part is getting power and activating the switch when the truck is off. It seems like the switch is doing its job and activating the clutch, the only thing is it's engaging the clutch when the climate **** is left in the AC position and the vehicle is off, if I turn the **** to off then the clutch disengages

I would think it's more of why is that part receiving power when the truck is turned off, right?

Yo,

You wrote . "The clicking noise came from the AC clutch engaging, when the **** is set to vent, defrost or ac it will engage the clutch with the vehicle off, this is what was drawing the power, when the **** is set to off there is no engaging of the clutch and no power draw"

In my other post I described how to text for batty voltage on tbe Purple wire with **** turned to AC, or max or defrost.

These positions provide batty power to the cyclying switch and clutch coil

Pull connector off cyclying switch withknob in ac, max and defrost.

Can you tezt with a wiring diagram?

Will try to post jt if i can stay logged in or login.

** FOR now, SUSPECT The A/C cycling switch. ***

Yo,

Wiring Diagram @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=8623

Yo,

I will merge the two threads here so we can see get together on the deal.

Yo,

Summary;

With engine off and key is not in cylinder, when the A/C cycling switch is stuck closed and the **** is set at MAX A/C, NORM A/C, or either of the settings calling for full or partial defroster operation:

battery voltage Flows from the fuse through the ****'s switch &

through the A/C cycling switch to the A/C clutch coil, thereby the coil is energized with battery voltage.

Yo Jasindude,

I have one question, you wrote, "...The clicking noise came from the AC clutch engaging, when the **** is set to vent, defrost or ac it will engage the clutch with the vehicle off, this is what was drawing the power, when the **** is set to off there is no engaging of the clutch and no power draw."

Can you confirm it did click in the vent position?

Ron & I had a conversation last evening about this. While I revewed this discussion between you and I, I realized that you did mention that the issued occurred with **** on the Vent position. Therefore as Ron pointed out, the switch in the control panel must be the problem especially because of the radio change. I agree with Ron.

So we're back to what I advised earlier, with selector switch in off position with engine running, check purple wire (P) for batty power, if yes, then suspect switch or its wiring.