Looking for more HP 1989 351

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Magals

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I have a 1989 bronco with a stock 351 (automatic and efi). I'll be replacing cam bearings soon as I have absolutely no oil pressure. In the process I was thinking of upgrading my cam shaft. The bronco is stock but would like to gain some more power. Was thinking of cam, headers and exhaust. What kind of gain could I expect? Is the cam shaft upgrade worth it ,if I don't upgrade the heads? Any recommendations on a cam? What about headers? I plan on adding a 4" suspension this summer along with some bigger tires, will mostly likely change gearing when the time comes.

Ive been looking into long tube headers but was told by several people they are a PITA to get on. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

 

Seabronc

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My first suggestion, is to go to a local book store like Barns & Nobel and purchase some books on rebuilding Ford engines.  They have several great books written by experts and just the kind us guys like with lots of pictures.

You need to gain some knowledge about computer tuning if you are going to stick with EFI since your existing computer is set up to operate the engine as it is presently configured.

Good luck on the project,

:)>-

 

miesk5

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Yo Magals,

Welcome!

fyi:

1989 Bronco Brochure @ http://www.lov2xlr8.no/brochures/ford/89bronco.html

1989 Bronco Shop & Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) by mrnewland1 @ https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0Bz1eScc6s4raOHd0WlVnMUw4WjQ?usp=drive_web

Reduce weight.. of the the Bronco

I have always factored in any cost to improve MPG in the overall $ "savings".

Free:

reducing weight (of the Bronco and tools, accessories and ... passengers; driver's get a pass)

proper tire pressure

ensure that brakes are not dragging

damaged or plugged exhaust system.

slipping transmission

driving style/ light foot

check for trouble codes

Cost Items:

alignment

COLD air intake - insulate air intake from grille area to throttle body.

See Air Tube & Box Insulation pics in a 94 5.0; Ken used Reflectix Insulation, avail @ Lowes. etc. ST16025 - 16" x 25 feet. miesk5 Note; Ken installed the K&N® & removed da cold air intake tube that runs to the top of the radiator; but he could have installed the intake tube section later.

Source: by Ken B (Kenny's 94) @ http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/9319/29460#content

AND BY Crown Auto Parts Inc.;

"Under inflated tires Increase rolling resistance 1-2 mpg;

Dirty air filter Causes excessively rich fuel/air mixture 2.0 mpg;

Worn spark plugs Cause inefficient combustion, wasted fuel 2.0 mpg;

Worn O2 sensor Unable to detect and adjust air/fuel mixture 3 mpg;

Dirty or substandard engine oil Increases internal engine friction 0.4 mpg;

Loose gas cap Allows fuel to evaporate 2.0 mpg;

Potential loss in fuel economy if all of the above were neglected 11.4 mpg..."

& more Items that Cost $:

Project M.P.G. in a Centurion 460; miesk5 Note, Results are Comparable to Tests in other Ford Engines

Source: by performanceunlimited.com @ http://performanceunlimited.com/projectmpg/

...

See EFI Performance Upgrades by Ryan M @ http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page9.html

I recommend a TwEECer

Overview, Forums, Downloads, etc.; "...The TwEECer is an adapter which connects to the J3 service port of a Ford EEC PCM, giving you the ability to substitute parameters in the calibration data with parameters that match the modifications which you have made to your engine..." read more

Source: by tweecer @mhttp://www.tweecer.com/support.htm

Some comments on Chips by 2 people who know more about the Ford EEC system than anyone I have ever met or worked with;

by Sig; "...They're garbage unless they're done with YOUR vehicle on a dynamometer and an experienced tuner. The plug & go style don't do anything you can't do yourself for next to nothing. The only after-market tuning devices worth considering are the Quarter Horse and the twEECER, but only after SIGNIFICANT modifications have been made, and to the point that the factory programming can't keep up.

don't even bother with the PCM's programming until you've reached the point that it's absolutely necessary to do it. That level of modification won't be seen until the heads, intake, exhaust, and cam are changed..."

--

by Ryan M; "...Ford programming has been better than any other manufacturer for years. this is why GM aftermarket computer tuning is more popular. ford computers can do more in the stock form. And you engine is no where near exceding the stock computer at this time.

MOST IMPORTANT IS COST

There are several ways to get a different engine and program. But the best way will require a new mustang computer, MAF sensor, wiring harness, and a chip tuner.

omputer: $100 - $300

MAF sensor: $100 - $200

Wiring: free junkyarding - $700

Chip: $400 - $750

Cheapest way to do it would be eBay hunting and you're still looking at $500+ for everything you'd need.

So from a dollar stand point your ...truck engine does not have enough perfromance potential to justfy the cost.

Honestly I can't really justify my own computers cost. I have spent just over a grand on MAF computer hardware.

Hypertech Power Module Review in a 94

Source: by Stephen R at again.net via web.archive.org

"...The next modification to the Bronco was going to be ignition work. Although the Ford ignition system worked just fine, I had read several reports about new "computer modules", so I read some specification sheets, and ordered the Hypertech Power Module, the Hypertech Power-Stat, and the Hypertech Modified Octane Bar for the distributor. I'm really not too sure this was such a great idea. I noticed no improvement in power, speed, acceleration or anything... except for the gas pump. No I didn't get more MPG, I had to switch from 87-octane gasoline to 91-octane. (The Bronco doesn't run worth a damn when I use 87-octane!) As for the Power-Stat, ****, it's just a plain old thermostat that opens about 40-degrees sooner than the factory job. What it does is make the Bronco run richer and cooler, fooling the Ford computer. WHOOP-EE!!

...

How to pick a CAMSHAFT for EFI by Ryan M;

Good 5.0L/5.8L (302/351) EFI hydraulic flat tappet cams:

Comp Cam 35-255-5

* Duration at .050 in.: 210 / 214

* Gross valve lift: 0.478 / 0.485

* Lobe separation: 114°

Edelbrock 3782

* Duration at .050 in.: 210 / 216

* Gross valve lift: 0.469 / 0.484

* Lobe separation: 116°

Crane Cams 444232

* Duration at .050 in.: 206 / 214

* Gross valve lift: 0.448 / 0.464

* Lobe separation: 114°

Best 5.0L/5.8L (302/351) Roller EFI cam:

89-95 Mustang 5.0L **

Ford Part numbers: E8ZE-6250-CA / F1ZE-6250-AA / F4ZE-6250-DA

* Advertised Duration: 276 / 266

* Duration at .050 in.: 214 / 210

* Gross valve lift: 0.444 / 0.444

* Lobe separation: 115°

...

GT-40 vs. GT-40P Review in an 87

Source: by broncoflorida;

Miesk5 note, verify all info here with other sources.

His pics are @ http://s35.photobucket.com/user/kenfelix/library/GT40?sort=3&page=1

"...The GT40 and GT40P heads are one of the highest flowing heads for the SBF 5.0L applications. These are available online, ebay and in some junkyards if your lucky. Aclot of racers that have to meet stock OEM heads requirements, also uses these heads. You can use these on any 289/302/351W engine. All OEM int/exh manifolds will bolt on.

Let's start with the GT40, these heads can be found on Ford Mustang, Explorer and SVT/truck Lighting applications. These heads also boast the larger exhaust valves but don't flow as much as the GT40P that I will speak about later. These heads also flow more than the other E7 E6 heads which can be found thru out most of the ford car/trucks.

These heads can be found on a few Mustangs upto 1995 and on most of the earlier Ford Explorer applications ( approx 96-98ish). They are easily identify by the tell-tale 3 vertical end marks or by looking at the sparkplug at either end and finding the GT stamp.

Also they have a GT stamped on the top of the head and the one machine flat spot at the corner.

Once the cover is off , the oil return galley also has the words GT.

the heads also have the F3ZE AA casting stamped on the bottom side

Most accessories brackets bolts on with no problems. These do NOT have ports for any airpump and reduce emissions. The combustion chamber has the spark plug almost terminating into the chamber, leading to a better burn and reduce emissions. If your looking for a non worry, direct fit head, that low cost and iron. This is the head to buy and use. Ford racing make the same head in Aluminum btw, but at a higher cost. It might be available in some dealer inventory or thru other suppliers.

next the GT40P heads, this is off my girlfriend car. She blew a gasket and we found a crack exh valve, so I loaned my heads out to her. This head is only found on a explorer. The explorer uses the GT40 and up to 98ish they started converting to the Gt40P for even better emissions reduction. A side benefit to this head, it brings the plug out and puts more flame exposed to the incoming air. The only bad thing about this head, it's plug angle is not ideal with stock exhaust manifolds.

Just like the GT40 it has vertical end markings, but 4 lines

It like the Gt40 has the wording GTP and a single P stamped on the outer edge and near the spark plug hole. The flat spot at the corner of valve cover has the P.

The oil return galley has the letters GT40P in that valley. This is only place you will see the full GT40P stamp btw.

The bottom of the head has a different casting number than a GT40

Both heads boast the same size valve for intake but the exhaust is smaller on the P.

GT40 ( 1.54 )

and GT40P ( 1.46 )

Take note of the spark plug **** and the position of where the plug would be between both heads.

Most accessories brackets bolts on with no problems. These do NOT have ports for any airpump and reduce emissions. The combustion chamber has the spark plug exposed into the chamber, leading to a better burn and reduce emissions than the Gt40s.

If your looking for the highest flowing OEM ford heads, this is the head to buy and use. You will have header problems if your choose to use the factory GT40 or regular manifolds. Most people get by with custom headers and with reduce plugs lengths that are found thru accel, with custom plug wires. Note, no mustangs ever had gt40 heads from the factory....cobras did but not a plain mustang.

all mustang 5.0s from 1987 to 1995 had the e7 heads"

..

Ford Racing M-9430-T50 F-Series Stainless Steel; bolts right up to the Explorer 5.0 GT40P heads in an Explorer GT40 engine

Source: by Cobra Jet (Phil, cobra-jet-nj)

"I know there are a ton of threads about "headers" and of course tons of tech related articles as well. Most of those threads or articles touch base on how certain aftermarket headers will or will not work with the 5.0 or 5.8 engine in a Bronco (or F-Series trucks). We all know there are the Summit Racing "cheapy" headers that do work, but require Y-pipe mods or tweaks... then there are the BBK, MAC, JBA, Gibson headers and so forth - but again, they all are addressed most of the time to the standard E7 5.0 or 5.8 heads.

I blew up the original 5.0 in my 94 Bronco last December and have finally gotten around to working on the rebuild. The old engine was trashed and there was no possible way it could be rebuilt at all (another thread exists on that).

So, I had purchased a complete Explorer 5.0 long block to use as my base rebuild, because of the fact that it's a "GT40" engine. The engine I chose is actually a GT40P engine, which means it has the infamous GT40P heads on it. If those of you out there know Mustangs or 5.0's in general, you all know that the GT40P heads require different or specific "GT40P" headers.

Now let me note for the record before I go on further - I read MANY threads on MANY different forums both F-Series trucks, Broncos & Mustangs - and many have stated that the Ford stock tubular 5.0 headers would work, many have stated the standard BBK headers would work and so forth.

I can attest by actually TRYING out the following headers on a GT40P headed engine that these headers WILL NOT WORK AT ALL, NO WAY, NO HOW:

1986-1995 5.0 stock tubular Mustang headers

stock Bronco 5.0 cast iron exhaust manifolds

1986-1995 5.0 BBK unequal length shorty headers

1986-1995 5.0 Mustang Ford Racing shorty headers

The reason those headers will NOT work or fit properly is because there is MAJOR interference with the plugs on the driver's side GT40P head. There is no way in **** to make the above headers work properly at all - period.

Now - back to the GT40P heads. I searched high and low for GT40P specific headers. True, some exist, but for the most part, 99% of the GT40P specific headers that DO exist are for the Mustangs. The problem with the GT40P Mustang headers is the ball & socket ****** is skewed & designed for a Mustang and in order to make them work in a Bronco - you NEED to have a custom Y-pipe designed in order to properly mate to a Mustang GT40P header. So, my only other option I was thinking that I had would be I'd have to sell the GT40P heads and get another set of heads so that I could use a nice set of aftermarket Bronco shorty headers.

I continued to search and actually went to Ford Racing's web site. There on the Ford Racing web site, I saw the following headers - Ford Racing Part # M-9430-T50. These were specific F-Series headers for the 5.0 engine. According to all I have read online, these are a direct fit header and will mate up to the factory Y-pipe on all 1990-1995 F-Series trucks, E-Series Vans and also Broncos without any issues. There was also a side note that stated: "fits all production and GT40 heads".

Miesk5 note, the headers mentioned are for a 50

So, I took a chance, called and ordered a set from Summit Racing (Summit Racing Part # FMS-M-9430-T50 - $295.95). The headers arrived today and it was "test" time to see if these headers would indeed fit onto GT40P heads. The headers come with header bolts, studs, nuts & nice gaskets too.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9430-T50

Results: THESE HEADERS FIT the GT40P heads AND MOUNT UP GREAT!

The Ford Racing M-9430-T50 F-Series stainless steel headers bolt right up to the GT40P heads with enough spark plug clearance that allows the removal and installation of the factory spec plugs. The trick to removing only a couple of plugs if trying to use a standard socket for spark plugs, is to insert the plug socket onto the spark plug and then use an open end or boxed end wrench to turn the plug socket (instead of using a ratchet). This worked perfectly and I tried the method by removing all plugs and reinstalling all of them - no issues with plug clearances.

There is also a company now that makes "short" spark plug sockets for tight fitting areas when removing or installing plugs (which would also come in handy for a variety of different header setups):

Product: Tight fit spark plug sockets

Price: $44.95

Manufactured by: Powerhouse Products (www.powerhouseproducts.com)

Note: There was only 1 single issue with the set of Ford Racing headers I received. The passenger side header primary tube for the #3 exhaust port was not properly angled for spark plug clearance. Put it this way, I could not even get a spark plug boot onto the plug! This was hopefully & merely a manufacturing "oops". To remedy the problem, the tube was heated up with a torch and a ball peen hammer was used to dimple that section of tubing down enough so that the spark plug could be removed/installed and so that a plug boot would fit properly. This was the ONLY issue I came across with the set I received and like I said, I see this as being a flaw in the inspection/tolerance/manufacturing process that missed the problem before these were boxed.

All in all these Ford Racing headers are very nice and of great quality. They fit nice onto the GT40P heads and appear to have the correct ball & socket ****** angles to mate with the factory Bronco Y-pipe.

So - in summary, if you are looking to install a GT40P engine and keep the GT40P heads - the above Ford Racing headers will work!"

 
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Skitter302

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I have a 1989 bronco with a stock 351 (automatic and efi). I'll be replacing cam bearings soon as I have absolutely no oil pressure. In the process I was thinking of upgrading my cam shaft. The bronco is stock but would like to gain some more power. Was thinking of cam, headers and exhaust. What kind of gain could I expect? Is the cam shaft upgrade worth it ,if I don't upgrade the heads? Any recommendations on a cam? What about heads? I plan on adding a 4" suspension this summer along with some bigger tires, will mostly likely change gearing when the time comes.

Ive been looking into long tube headers but was told by several people they are a PITA to get on. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Was thinking of cam, headers and exhaust. What kind of gain could I expect?
~ Depends what parts you use. The factory ECU/PCM is a very limiting factor. If your looking to stay efi you have to stick with a factory cam and heads but you can change the intake & exhaust with no issue. If you ditch the Computer stuff and go with a carb, sky's the limit!

~ You listed the year as 1989 so I'm assuming that you have a AOD. One of the best additions you can make is pulling that out and putting a shift kit into it.

Is the cam shaft upgrade worth it ,if I don't upgrade the heads?

Any recommendations on a cam?
~ Yes. but make sure to add stiffer lifter springs to replace the factory springs. The factory springs allow the valves to float at about 4300rpm. if you want to say Mild with EFI the e303 is a good cam. https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-e303cam-8595.html

 

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