Yo jasindude1,
I woukd replace just the bushing (aka insulator/rubber grommet) as long as shock's upper threaded stud is not damaged and the nut can't catch any threads & passes following info by Ford on any shock brand;
"All vehicles are equipped with low pressure gas-filled hydraulic shock absorbers of the direct acting type. They are non-adjustable and non-refillable. They cannot be serviced as cartridges and must be serviced as shock assemblies.
Make sure the shock absorber is securely and properly installed.
Check the shock absorber insulators for damage and wear.
Replace any worn or damaged insulators and tighten attachments to the specified torque (on a shock absorber which incorporates internal insulators, replace the shock absorbers).
Tighten shock absorber attachments to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft) upper, 60-81 Nm (45-60 lb-ft) lower.
Inspect the shock absorber for evidence of fluid leakage.
A light film of oil (weepage) on the upper portion of the front shock absorber is permissible and is a result of proper shock lubrication. Weepage is a condition in which a thin film of oil may be deposited on the shock outer tube (body) and is normally noticed due to the collection of dust in this area. Front shock absorbers which exhibit this weepage condition are functional units and should not be replaced. Leakage is a condition in which the entire shock body is covered with oil and the oil will drip from the shock onto the pavement.
If leakage exists:
Make sure the fluid observed is not from sources other than the front shock absorber.
Replace the worn or damaged front shock absorber.
Disconnect the lower end of the shock absorber.
Extend and compress the shock absorber as fast as possible, using as much travel as possible. Action should be smooth and uniform throughout each stroke.
Higher resistance on extension than on compression is a normal condition.
Faint swish noises are also normal.
Make sure the part number of the replacement is the same as that of the original shock absorber.
Hoist Check
Noise: Noise can be caused by loose suspension or shock attachments. Verify that all attachments or the suspension components and front springs and front shock absorbers are tight. Replace any worn or damaged upper stud insulators. Check front springs and front shock absorbers for external damage.
Bottom/Hopping: Check condition of the rubber suspension travel stops (front suspension bumpers (3020)). Replace if worn or missing. Examine for evidence of previous overload or damaged components.
Force-Check: Support axle and remove lower front shock attachment. Stroke front shock body using as much travel as possible. The action should be smooth and uniform throughout each stroke. Damping forces should be equivalent on both sides of the vehicle.
Replace only the worn or damaged front shock absorber.
In the past it was recommended that front shock absorbers be replaced in pairs if one unit became unserviceable. Improved sealing, new materials, design and improved rod machining and hardening techniques have added to the reliability of shock absorbers. Therefore, front shock absorbers no longer need to be replaced in pairs when only one unit is not serviceable.
Bench Test
In my younger days, we would just push down ******* the corner of each bumper and see if vehicle bounced more than twice which indicates shock should be replaced.
Back to Ford;
The front shock absorbers are gas-pressurized, which results in their being fully extended when not restrained. If a front shock absorber does not fully extend, it is damaged and should be replaced. Check length overall (LOA). If the front shock absorber does not meet the length overall requirement, it is a good indication something internal is not to specification and the front shock absorber should be replaced.
With the front shock absorber in the normal upright position, compress it and allow it to extend three times to purge the pressure chamber of any gas that may have been introduced during handling.
Place the front shock absorber right side up in a vise. Hand-stroke the front shock absorber as fast as possible using as much travel as possible. Action should be smooth and uniform throughout each stroke. Higher resistance on extension than on compression is normal.
The following conditions are abnormal:
A lag or skip at reversal of travel near mid-stroke when front shock absorber is properly primed and in the installed position
Seizing
Noise, other than a faint swish, such as a clicking upon fast stroke reversal
Excessive fluid leakage
With rod fully extended, any lateral motion of rod in relation to outer cylinder
If front shock absorber action remains erratic after purging air, install a front shock absorber, replacing only the damaged front shock absorber. Front shock absorbers do not need to be replaced as sets.
Suspension, Rear
Check for leaks on shock absorbers (18080).
Check shock absorber operation for stiff, rough or spongy operation.
Check condition or rear suspension bushings and rear suspension springs.
If the above checks reveal evidence of excessive wear, deterioration, or improper operation, replace damaged components."
