High Compression Possibly Causing No Crank

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brainybroncoboy

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Hello everyone,

I recently resurrected a very old project - 92 Bronco.

I swapped in a 351W w/ AFR heads for the original 302. 

I can turn the engine over manually with no issue. 

I installed the starter and primed the oil pump and can't get one solid revolution of the crank. 

I removed most of the spark plugs and the engine spins much more freely with the starter.

Will this be problematic as I continue with the install and try to get this engine started?  Is it possible for an engine to have so much compression that it cannot crank?

This is my first swing at a swap so any support would be appreciated. 

I've conducted searches on this topic but I think I've come to the point where I need to ask for help. 

Thanks

 

Seabronc

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Yes, if you have water in one or more of the cylinders  and that would most likely trash the piston rods, other than that, I doubt that you have too much compression.  What are the compression numbers for each of the cylinders?  Probably a bad starter.

:)>-

 

miesk5

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Yo B,

Since I see you are here now, I am posting some easy to do things first, then onto the compression test. Will add more in new reply after my physical therapist visits here.

...

I assume that you have good battery voltage over 12.6 volts. Have it load tested for free at local oarts store, same for starter that needs to be removed.

...

Inspect battery clamps, cables and wire strands for corrosion, damage or looseness. Include ground cables from negative battery post to engine, intake manifold, to firewall, to frame, etc.; and positive cable from battery to relay to starter for corroaion, damage, loose connection, etc.

Is relay securely mounted to a Rust/Grime Less section of fender?

This can also be due to a dead battery cell. Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the Bronco, or it may start the Bronco right after charging, but then fail to crank. I had a dead cell that did same; no crank then after turning to start a few times, it would crank.

"...Why are the cables and battery so important? The starter circuit pulls a lot of amperage, up to 500 amps depending on the starter, the engine load, and battery condition. This kind of amperage stresses all of the components in the starter circuit, including the battery, battery terminals, the battery disconnect switch, the cables including the ground path, and any remote solenoids. Problems with these components are hard to find because they appear fine at rest or under a light load, but generate high resistance under heavy amperage draws. The result will be low voltage to the starter during cranking, resulting in heavier amperage draw and increased internal heat in the starter. Over time, this will cause starter failure. Voltage measured at the starter during cranking should always be above 9.5VDC..."

Source: by powermastermotorsports

...

Compression Test

Make sure oil in crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at proper level and battery (10655) is properly charged. Operate vehicle until engine (6007) is at normal operating temperature. Key off, then remove all spark plugs (12405).

Set throttle plates in wide-open position.

Install a compression gauge such as Rotunda Compression Tester 164-R0250 or equivalent in No. 1 cylinder spark plug opening.

Install an auxiliary starter switch in starting circuit. With key off, and using auxiliary starter switch, crank engine at least five compression strokes and record highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes required to obtain the highest reading.

Repeat test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes.

Test Results

The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the highest. Refer to the following chart.

COMPRESSION PRESSURE LIMIT CHART

Maximum kPa Maximum psi Minimum kPa Minimum psi

924 134 696 101

938 136 703 102

952 138 717 104

965 140 724 105

979 142 738 107

993 144 745 108

1007 146 758 110

1020 148 765 111

1034 150 779 113

1048 152 786 114

1062 154 793 115

1076 156 807 117

1089 158 814 118

1103 160 827 120

1117 162 834 121

1131 164 848 123

1145 166 855 124

1158 168 869 126

1172 170 876 127

1186 172 889 129

1200 174 903 131

1214 176 910 132

1227 178 917 133

1241 180 931 135

1255 182 938 136

1268 184 952 138

1282 186 965 140

1296 188 972 141

1310 190 979 142

1324 192 993 144

1338 194 1000 145

1351 196 1014 147

1365 198 1020 148

1379 200 1034 150

1393 202 1041 151

1407 204 1055 153

1420 206 1062 154

1434 208 1076 156

1448 210 1083 157

1462 212 1089 158

1476 214 1103 160

1489 216 1117 162

1503 218 1124 163

1517 220 1138 165

1531 222 1145 166

1544 224 1158 168

1558 226 1165 169

1572 228 1179 171

1586 230 1186 172

1600 232 1200 174

1613 234 1207 175

1627 236 1220 177

1641 238 1227 178

1655 240 1241 180

1669 242 1248 181

1682 244 1262 183

1696 246 1269 184

1710 248 1283 186

1724 250 1289 187

Compression Readings — Interpreting

It is recommended the Compression Pressure Limit Chart be used when checking cylinder compression so that the lowest reading number is 75 percent of the highest reading.

If one or more cylinders reads low, squirt approximately one 1.5 ml (1 tablespoon) of SAE 50 weight or equivalent engine oil on top of the pistons in the low reading cylinders. Repeat compression pressure check on these cylinders.

If compression improves considerably, piston rings are at fault.

If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or seating poorly.

If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on pistons does not increase compression, cause may be a cylinder head gasket leak between cylinders. Engine oil and/or coolant in cylinders could result from this problem.

Example Readings

For example, check the compression pressures in all cylinders. If the highest reading obtained was 1351 kPa (196 psi) and the lowest pressure reading was 1069 kPa (155 psi), the engine is within specification and the compression is considered satisfactory.

 
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brainybroncoboy

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thank you guys.

the cables to/from starter and battery are all new as well as the solenoid.  all cable connections have been cleaned, "weatherproofed" and torqued down. 

Only the lower intake has been installed - no upper intake, throttle body, MAF etc.

I don't have a battery on it yet as I think I am a long ways from actually starting this engine under it's own efforts.  Instead, I attempt cranking by having it "jumped" by my daily driver. 

i'll work to taking a peek into each cylinder and getting compression numbers today. 

thank you again guys

 
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fordblood

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Put a battery in it and try again. Jumper cables are to small of a gauge to handle the current needed to efficiently turn that starter.

 
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brainybroncoboy

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thanks folks.

Fordblood you were dead on.  I was very much mistaken thinking 2AWG jumper cables were sufficient.  I splurged and dropped in an Interstate MTP-65 and the engine spins like a blender. 

Hopefully today plugs and wires go on, timing gets set and we cross fingers for spark. 

Thank you all again - this was a tremendous help. 

stay tuned...

 

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