cardan joint replacement---is there a wrong way to put on the H yoke?

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jramirez35

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thanks in advance for any assistance provided to all.  replacing the cardan joint (the spring loaded ball) and all the u joints on the original one when i broke a seat for the last u joint cap on the H yoke.  Go figure...put all eight on and the last one broke.  looked to the heavens and said out loud, "that's a good one God!  You have a HUGE sense of humor when it comes to me!".  So now I cant put the locking clip on the u joint cap.  the cap is pressed but it is not clipped in and i am not going to take a chance that it vibrates out.  got a new one on the way and that being said, is there a wrong way to put this on?  is there an orientation (ie, this way goes front) for this thing because it sure did look identical and i was seconds away from being able to install this.  with the new one i don't intend to break it again because it is not locally available if i do it again.  one good thing from this, i dropped the transfer case and found the typical oil pump failure so that is on the way too as well as the seal/dust boot for that cardan cv ball.  didnt like not being able to get that replaced with the installed one being so deteriorated but the spicer replacement also enroute.  any help or suggestions would be appreciated.  

 

Bully Bob

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"So now I cant put the locking clip on the u joint cap.  the cap is pressed but it is not clipped in and i am not going to take a chance that it vibrates out."

Usually when this happens, a bearing cap has 1 roller bearing that has fallen in & the cap won't seat completely.

(Know this from my own issue with a U-joint.)

I put mine back the way they came appart..,  I can't recall the order.

 

Seabronc

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It has been so long since I did that, but I think I had the same problem.   Here is a shop manual excerpt on the Cardan joint'

:)>-

Power Modifications 001.jpg

Power Modifications 002.jpg

Power Modifications 003.jpg

Power Modifications 004.jpg

Power Modifications 005.jpg

 
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jramirez35

jramirez35

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So the driveshaft i rebuilt ate itself up at the cardan joint that was replaced. it also locked up at the joint at about 60mph and the stress had to go somewhere so the transmission bell housing fractured. Catastrophic failure to say the least. instead of a new knuckle and take a chance that things were not balanced anymore, i opted for a new driveshaft from 4xshaft.com. they were recommended by bronco graveyard. using an angle finder from home depot, at the transfer case ****** i get 84* (i believe that would be 6* down), 74* at the pinion ****** (i believe that is 16* down) and 16*-17* on the driveshaft. I used a string line to simulate the driveshaft being in place because it has not arrived yet. the driveshaft guys say i should be ok, but that pinion angle looks extreme to me.




 
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jramirez35

jramirez35

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sorry...the 1st pic is angle at the pinion.  the second is at the transfer case.  the third is the driveshaft.  rebuilt transmission is installed at a local tranny shop and they are waiting for the new driveshaft which should be here friday.  they think that it is the pinion angle being too extreme and rough country has double checked my work and the pinion wedges are installed properly.  im not sure what they are but the truck was stock prior to a month ago and now has a 4" lift.  the driveshaft guys think it was just time for that driveshaft to go (a spicer 1330...i upgraded to a 1350 for extra strength)  and i am leaning on agreeing with them because the cardan joint h yoke and cv ball knuckle were worn as ****.  any assistance would be appreciated.

 

Bully Bob

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Have you talked to an actual drive-line shop..?  I'm sure there's one there in Laredo...

ALSO.., an actual 4x4 shop..?

My understanding is a perfect alignment from T-case to the Differental (meaning "0" angle) is a BAD THING.!

This would cause vibration.

A few deg. drop down coming off the T-case --- & --- a few deg. up  angle at the differential..., is ideal..!!

A drive-line/4x4 shop will have done dozens of these & know what works on your truck with a 4" lift.

(the lift is whats causing your issues)

 
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jramirez35

jramirez35

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no just the tranny shop and the driveshaft guys.  the driveshaft guys think im gonna be fine...im even better than spicer specs according to them.  16*-17* seems like alot.  and rough country is insistent that i should be fine.  there really isnt a 4x4 place here...the best place for this area is actually where i have it at now.  im getting that down measurement from the spicer website.  it has a driveline calculator and if you watch the videos it tells you how you are measuring it if you had their angle finder that you put on the u joint cap.  since it is at the bottom of the ujoint it would be down which would be 6* down on transfer case, 17*down on pinion angle.  the pinion angle is 17* off horizontal is all i really know and i dont know if that is too much for this new driveshaft.

 

Bully Bob

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Let's hope that's all good.

However.., you might want to call www.wildhorses4x4.com   209-943-0991 

They are doing full size Broncos now.  Ask for the owner (Jim) or their lift, alignment, driveline guy.

In my case.., I only have a 2.5" lift.

I had to install 7deg wedges on the leaf spring perches to raise the nose of the diff.

That up angle is barely noticeable but it's there.

         (up meaning coming off the pinion yoke, the dr. shaft runs up hill)

The T-case end has a visually obvious down angle.., no idea what it is.

 

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