Yo NEW2THIS,
Welcome!
BEWARE OF FAN, PULLEYS, BELT HOT ENGINE, ETC.
Serpentine Belt, possible suspects; Look for:
misaligned pulleys; check for misalignment between adjacent pulleys.
pulley wobble; verify that no pulley wobbles during engine operation. Conditions causing wobble are: bent pulley, bent accessory shaft, rear face of pulley not seated flat against mating surface.
With the engine running, check drive belt tracking (the position of the drive belt on the drive belt tensioner). If the edge of the drive belt rides beyond the edge of the drive belt tensioner, this can cause noise and premature wear. If a drive belt tracking condition exists, visually check the drive belt tensioner for damage, especially the mounting pad surface. If the drive belt tensioner is not installed correctly with the locating pins in the locating holes, the mounting surface pad will be out of position. This will result in drive belt tension and chirp and squeal noises.
If the above procedures do not correct the drive belt noise, try replacing the drive belt with a known good original equipment drive belt. However, the drive belt noise may return again (with mileage) if one of the above conditions still exists uncorrected.
With engine running, visually observe the grooves in the pulleys (not the pulley flanges) for excessive wobble. Replace components as required.
Check all accessories, mounting brackets and drive belt tensioner for any interference that would prevent the component from mounting properly. Correct any interference condition and re-check belt tracking.
Tighten all accessories mounting brackets and drive belt tensioner retaining hardware. Recheck drive belt tracking.
Check the alignment of all of your pulleys.
Check your tensioner.
Belt & Pulley Tensioner Replacement in a 96 5.8; Miesk5 NOTE, Tensioner bolt is left-hand (reverse) thread; idler pulley bolt is a normal right-handed thread
Source: by stan the man (StanO); "...Made a quick run (on my bicycle) to the parts store to pick up a set of tamper-proof torx bits (works with hard top bolts), a new pulley assembly, and a new serpentine belt.
Time to remove the broken/seized pulley tensioner. I replaced the whole assembly, just because I like new parts and I didnt want to deal with removing a seized/crooked/broken pulley.
First step is to remove the negative battery cable from the battery. Although its likely the engine wouldn't accidently crank while your hands are in the fan area, it could happen and would be ugly. Do us all a favor and disconnect the battery before starting this job.
Second step is to remove the serpentine belt from all of the pulleys. Take a 15mm socket and push the pulley assembly to the passenger side of the truck. This nut does not twist or turn but rather is used to release tension on the spring, allowing the belt to slide off.
Now that the serpentine belt is off, remove the tensioner pulley/assembly with a T50 bit. Be careful with your hands because the bolt might all of a sudden release, cause your hand to smash into the battery (I speak from experience).
Now to install the new parts, it is important that you put the spring of the tensioner over this lip.
http://s32.photobucket.com/user/drbubble33/media/How%20To/IMG_2660.jpg.html
Put the T50 torx bit back in and torque down, it should look like this:
http://s32.photobucket.com/user/drbubble33/media/How%20To/IMG_2661.jpg.html
If you are going to install a new belt, now is the time. If you're old belt is in good shape slide that puppy back into place. Pull the 15mm bolt on the tensioner towards the drivers side and get the belt on ALL pulleys. This may take some time if since you will only have one hand to move the belt around. Just a reminder on the belt; smooth side to smooth pulley, ribbed side to ribbed pulleys .
Start the engine and check that the belt is spinning and NOT slipping. There should be no squeal..."
Steering Pump: I don't have the specs for the shaft wobble.
But should not have much wobble with pulley off. With pulley on, wobble could be around 1/8".
"outer right wheel hits the front bumper, causing a serious vibration."
Could be just a bumper adjustment using flat washers to move passenger side of bumper forward. Or trimming the valence below the bumper.
Are they stock sized tires? Look at your driver side door jamb label for size, such as this one in a 93 by broncofocused (Super Bronco)
Is there uneven tire wear?
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/f8903a.gif
Inspect the radius arm if bent or damaged. Inspect the bushings at the radius arm-to-frame attachment for wear and looseness.
Bushing Replacement Tips
Source: by Paul A at
http://batauto.com/threads/ford-trucks-snap-crackle-and-pop.14092/
Or could be Toe-out (negative toe) occurs when the dimension taken at the front of the tires is greater than that taken at the rear of the tires.
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/f8240a.gif
Are springs sagging?
Wheels must be same size and design, right and left side on each axle.
Wheels size and design, tire size and tire design should be as indicated on the Vehicle Certification Label.
Check air pressure of all tires; inflate to specifications indicated on the Door Jamb Label.
Bronco should be empty, fuel tanks full, no cargo such as tools, equipment or debris.
ounce the vehicle's front and rear suspension to normalize the vehicle static ride height
On level surface limits are:
Maximum of 16mm (5/8-inch) variance between left and right front wheel lips to ground.
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/f6657b.gif
"I believe another on towards the back on passanger side. To get to the header I have to take the wheel well off..... right?"
Yes easier to remove the wheelwell.
Read this by Stephen in a 93 @
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/770501
Excerpts: "...After driving it around for a week or so, an exhaust leak became apparent on the R side. I quickly eliminated the Y-pipe, 2ndry air crossover pipe, & EGR tube as possible sources, leaving only the exhaust manifold. An inspection mirror & flashlight showed the telltale soot streaks behind the #3 exhaust port. Another way to find a leak is to stuff the tailpipe with rags and listen for hissing at idle, but only FORWARD of the muffler (which is designed with small leaks).
To make access easier, I pulled the wheelwell. There are several 5.5mm (7/32") screws along the lip, an 8mm (5/16") bolt at the top going into the inner fender, four 11mm (7/16") nuts for the coffee can & 2ndry air filter, a 10mm inboard rear, two 8mms under the core support (fortunately not yet destroyed by battery acid), and a 10mm behind the charcoal canister, which itself is retained by an 8mm. 3 wiring harness retainers pop out, and the whole wheelwell comes out easily..."
...
Bolts probably removed or not installed correctly because of previous replacement cracks that often happen.
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Our sponsor, Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.
http://broncograveyard.com
Jeff's Bronco Graveyard also has many diagrams, etc.
http://broncograveyard.com/rt-1273-technical-diagrams-archives.html
My Tablet can't open some. Try it and let me know if you can view them.
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Here are some wiring diagrams (partial, 86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96)
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd
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96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) by FORD via
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm
96 is same as most earlier years especially 92-96, except for:
92 through 95 uses the Electronic Engine Control, version Four (EEC-IV, aka On Board Diagnostics (OBD-I)) engine management computer
96 uses the OBD-II (EEC-V) engine management computer;
4WABS (93-96);
RABS (87-92);
Air Bag (94-96);
3 ***** Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.);
R134a in 94-96;
2-piece Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS) used on 5/95 to 96 Broncos & F Series 1/2-ton 4WD;
Mass Air Flow in 95 5.8 California models and in all 96s, other years used Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP).
96 5.8 do not have the Air Injection (AIR), Secondary Air Injection; Pump (Smog Pump), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoids; Diverter, Check & Bypass Valves, Cross-Over Tube, etc. But 96 5.0 does have the system.
The 96, Vapor Management Valve (VMV) replaces the canister purge valve (CanP valve) used in EEC IV.
The Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) in a 93 Bronco is located on the driver side frame rail, but in 94 through 96 it is on the master cylinder.
Still researching other differences.
