Yo,
Check all battery cables, positive and grounds for corrosion, melted insulation, loose or poor connections, etc.
Is battery fully charged now?
Most fusible links show a melted, charred insulation when they burn out.
Check Fusible Links: A-Brown 18ga to Rear Window Defroster; W-Blue 20g to Fuel Pump Relay; N-Blue 20g to EEC Power Relay; F-Blue 20ga to Trailer; Y-Blue 20ga to N.C.; L-Brown 18ga to ?; M-Brown 18ga to ?;G-Blue 20g to Exterior Lamps, Trailer; P-Blue 20ga to ?; &
***J-Green 14ga to Alternator***
as shown in Wiring Diagram in an 89
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at
http://broncozone.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=10377
Fusible Link Location pics in an 85 & 89 (between the starter relay and alternator)"...the first two pics are of an 89 5.0. because of the loom i wasnt able to trace the wires...
***The second pic is at the starter relay to show you a fusible link wire (the green wire in my fingers you can see at the eyelet there is a black plastic block).****
the third pic is of my 85. i think that big block is another style fusible link ford used on older stuff (but im not sure)..."
Source: by shift1313 (Matt) at
http://broncozone.com/topic/15953-no-spark/page-2
Read all of it
...
Diode Leakage Test; "...To check alternator diode leakage, connect the multimeter in series with the alternator output terminal when the car is not running. Leakage current should be a couple of milliamps at most; more often, it will be on the order of 0.5 milliamps. Use care when disconnecting the alternator output wire; ***make sure the battery is disconnected first***..."
Source: by assets.fluke.com ==== I'd pull it and take it to NAPA or an Auto Electric Shop.