So here's another rear window post

So in my previous post I was asking about issues regarding my 94 bronco not wanting to work in Drive, as well as my rear window not working at all, button or key, and my 4x4 and 4x4 Low lights being stuck on, both button and dash. Well, the day before yesterday, I took her out of town and had her up to about 35-40 mph in 2nd gear. Randomly the 4x4 Low light went off and low and behold she now drives in Drive, shifts all the way into fourth. Have not tried turning overdrive on or off yet. Still will not come out of 4x4 High. So in the fuse box I found that number 12 and 14 fuses, both breakers, run the tailgate power window as well as the 4x4 button switches. I had the bright idea to switch the breaker fuses for regular fuses, and within a pretty short amount of time, the number 14 fuse had blown, rendering both door windows inoperable. I replaced it with the breaker fuse, and voila, my door windows now work again. I do not understand what this means for my tailgate power window, but I know it has something to do with it. When I had codes ran to check my Drive problem, it threw a code for low circuit failure on the 4x4. Same circuit that runs the rear power window, seeing as the same fuse runs both 4x4 switches and the power window? I have to have this remedied fairly immediately considering my fiance got a ticket for the taillight being out and I have to have it fixed by the beginning of November. So my problem, summarized, is that I need my tailgate window down. I have tried pressing in on the drivers side of the tailgate while using both button and key to lower the window. I took off the inside access panel, and see no corrosion, though it was obvious that someone had been inside it before, and the wiring looks like it's seen water. I don't know what to do about this. Any advice would be appreciated. 

to get the window down, remove the access panel.  Find the connector to the window motor.  Using jumpers from a battery to operate the motor, (a battery from a cordless drill will work, if not available long jumpers from the truck battery, just don't short them out).  Now you can access the rear light.

The other problem is associated with the CB, it shows me there is a high resistance short someplace in the circuit.  To find it, replace it with a test light, one with pin contacts that you can insert in the place of the fuse.  If there is a short, the light will glow.  Start disconnecting items in the circuit till the light goes out.  At that point you have found the offending part of the circuit.  To avoid cutting wires, try disconnecting at the connecting plugs.  ie. motor connections, the door window control switches (they have a connector)

If after disconnecting connectors, you still have the light glowing you probably have a rub through of a wire where it touches metal.  CBs take longer to pop than fuses even with a direct short.

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Yo T,

Will post some info for now.

Power Distribution Box Diagram, in engine bay, driver side aft of air filter box

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=43832

See if the **** fuses that serve CB 12 & 14 are intact.

S serves CB 12

P Serves fuse 14..should be CB 14, but Ford does make typos like I do.

Was the code DTC 691?.. 691 is, 4x4 selector fault (observed in Continuous Self-Test) is set when a stored Kam value for N/V (engine rpm/vehicle speed) is compared to a calculated N/V for the current switch position and driving condition. If these checks disagree, DTC 691 is set.

Possible Causes:

Damaged 4x4 Low switch or 4x4 selector lever position.

Symptoms: Failed on Early shift schedule in 4x2 and 4x4H. Failed off Shifts delayed in 4x4L. If the 4x4 low indicator light fuse is blown, the transmission will shift according to 4x4 low shift schedule regardless of transfer case position.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 633, 691

Shorted harness.

Damaged PCM.

Internal damage to transfer case.

Same for 633

So there is a short and I have ...

OK, just recalled our conversation here!

SO SEARCH FOR THE SHORT..

Check where harness passes into TG on driver side; see if grommets are displaced and wiring is chaffed against sheetmetal.

If no indication of chaffing, etc. then unplug MOTOR harness connector; find it on cross member, then check power wires for continuity to ground on TG side; operate Key Switch on TG and close latch on driver side; more to come after you check area for chaffing...

Since the glass is but, but you can't open the t/g, remove the inside access panel & pull the 2 rods inward (the L rod is obscured behind the tailgate, but it runs to the L Rod Clip). Either unclip them from the center mechanism, or pull them like bow strings to release each latch. Make sure the glass isnt so high that it engages the campers groove, or it could break. If it wont come down, unbolt the slides from the glass, or the motor from the regulator to lower the glass.



by Stephen

miesk5 said:

Since the glass is but, but you can't open the t/g, remove the inside access panel & pull the 2 rods inward (the L rod is obscured behind the tailgate, but it runs to the L Rod Clip). Either unclip them from the center mechanism, or pull them like bow strings to release each latch. Make sure the glass isnt so high that it engages the campers groove, or it could break. If it wont come down, unbolt the slides from the glass, or the motor from the regulator to lower the glass.



by Stephen

Click to expand...

Do not do this unless the window is clear of both top and side groves.  I would only do this if once the window is lowered, the tailgate latch would not work to lower the tail gate.  First try lowering the window using jumpers as stated above.  You should normally be able to use the latch on the back of the gate to lower it.  If you have to do this be careful of the glass and give it some support or you could easily break the glass.

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So I got the window down and I did extend the ground wire from the tail light harness because the terminal connector itself was rusting, which did nothing to fix that driver's side tail light. I am going to get a test light tomorrow and do some trouble shooting. As far as the 4x4 problem and off shifting and high revving, these are the codes from when we spoke before: 

633 4x4 Switch Closed

691 4x4 Low Circuit Failure

452 Open Vehicle Speed Sensor

I also read some on this link where you were talking another person through a similar problem: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/181667-bronco-low-range-light-tranny-bogging-down.html

Yo T,

See my DTC 452 testing @ http://broncozone.com/topic/25513-rough-shift-blinking-overdrive/

FOR 691, I found our conversation and Test @ http://broncozone.com/topic/25376-transmission-problems-hopefully-electrical/

As I wrote there, the test is involved and I understand how frustrating it is to go through just reading it. But, now you know what a dealer mechanic would do.