Yo
your kit should come with a front sway bar mount.
Some use blocks. Others add new leaves.
Some remove the rear sway bar completely.
Rough Country® 4 inch Installation in an 88
Source: by Daniel T (SSgtTEX, SrATEX, Tex's Toy)
Pics @ at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4953/19810-4
He wrote in a defunct web site;
"...Ok guys, never did a real write up before but I will try my best with what I got. I didnt get many of the installing the item more of the tear down. Also there are a couple pics I have no clue what I was looking at, at the time so I will try to remember that. Sorry some of it jumps around but i was doing one thing while someone else did another and tried to get pics of it all.
first you need to get all your parts out and devise a plan of attack
chock the rear tires and raise the vehicle and support it with jack stands under the frame
remove the front wheels
start by removing the shocks, hold the shock with a 3/4" wrench while loosening the nut.
if you have help let them devise the plan of attack on the radius arm brackets
what Dale did was use a cutting wheel on the head then punch out the rivets
then remove the bolt that holds the bracket for the coil spring
then remove the nut and washer holding the bottom of the coil spring
remove the radius arm nuts
and support the axel
radius arm bracket out
test fit the new drop bracket to see if all holes line up
start bolting it all up
this is the axel pivot bracket for the pass side. I know with RC and superlift this must come out for the new drop bracket, no rivets just bolts
pass side axel pivot bolt must come out first
drivers side
we used a punch and a persusive tool to get the bolt out of the hole
there is a bolt on the front of the cross member
this one has to come out also
axle dropped
2 bolts on inside of cross member for pass side bracket
putting the bolts in for the new bracket
the bracket on the drivers side bolts right up to factory brackets axel pivot bolt hole and two holes must be drilled in the cross member for mounting. sorry no pic i was drilling on it
we found it easier to **** up the bushings and stick the radius arms in the brackets and tighten it down some to help get the axle into the new brackets
note: it is a ***** to get the axle in place, we ended up using dale's 4wheeler with a winch on it to help pull it to the drivers side
rip out your old brake lines
put your new ones in. Note: the rear one for an 88 was a hex and the place it mounted to in the x-member was a hex but one side was rounded, yours may require a little of grinding also. bleed brakes when all lines are on
while you are up here pitman arm needs to come out. Remove the cotter pin and castleated nut. try not to d!ck up the cotter pin unless you have some. You need any I can get some for you since we carry rather large ones on our bench stock. A nail will work until you can get a new cotter pin
pull the linkage out of your way
now you will need to get a special puller. Im sure parts stored carry them. cause we tried this till dale found his and persuasion tools just dont work too well
driverside done, the coils and shocks go in just as removed by the way
now if your kit came with a stabilzer mount the bracket to the tie rod
Moseley mounted it to the old sway bar bracket instead of drilling the frame and this works very well
put wheels back on
now for the rear
chock the front tires, jack up the vehicle, support with jackstands on the frame and remove the wheels and tires
place a jack under the pumkin for support of the axle and begin removing you u-bolts for a block lift
if you have help wait while they do the other side
lower the jack to allow for the blocks to go in
we placed the blocks on top of the wedge, then start mounting your new ubolts and running down the nuts by hand
then tighten them down
now put the wheels back on and lower vehicle
dont forget to put all applicable stickers on, that is big gains right there
it was recommended to be to keep the ubolts just in case i have one break and also the rad arm brackets if i decide to swap to extended rad arms. I would recommend the same."
...
Rough Country® 4 inch Installation info & pics in an 80
Source: by Larry L (lal357, old blue) at
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/1597/9133-4
...
LIFT AND TIRE INFORMATION FOR 80-96 BRONCOS
Ok guys, here is the final thread for all 80-96 lift and tire info. I hope that anything replied too will be more info, and we can make it a sticky for new members. Here we go!
There are three different body styles in the 80-96 era. 80-86, 87-91, 92-96. In 1980 FoMoCo introduced a four wheel drive version of their Twin-Traction Beam suspension. This suspension and axle design is normally only recommended for tires up to 35 inches if off-roading is done. Tires up to 38 inches have been run on TTB but it is not recommended for heavy off-roading. The first two years, 80 and 81, the frame was sort of expiramental and is less desirable for off road use. From 80-86 the bodies and fenders were more squared off and the fender openings are generally referred to as being larger than later models. From 87-91 the bodies and fenders were much more rounded, but the grill and frontend was still partially squared off. These models do not have as large of a fender opening. From 92-96 ford made their last broncos, and these included a front end update for a more curvy look. The fender openings stayed the same from the 87-91 model years.
What follows is what size tire you can fit both stock and with the lift amounts listed.
Generally 33 inch tires will fit without rubbing issues except on the radius arms. Some rubbing may occur on the fenders under extreme flex but can be fixed with very minor trimming and if the rubbing occurs on the bumper it can be spaced out to fix this problem. A 4 inch lift can fit 35s with minor trimming but 33s are recommended to alleviate any rubbing issues. A 6 inch lift can fit up to 35 inch tires with minor rubbing if any. Skyjacker makes an 8 inch lift that can be used to fit up to 38 inch tires, but this puts a lot of strain on the TTB axle setup.
Another issue is whether to get radius arm drop brackets or to get extended radius arms. Extended radius arms can increase flex and offer better ground clearance, but also cost much more. Extended radius arms are also much stronger. Drop down brackets use the stock radius arms and do not offer as much flex or strength or ground clearance but are also much cheaper.
The stock sway bars can be reused with a lift if you absolutely think they are necessary. Many members believe that taking the stock sway bars off makes no difference in handling or body lean, but this modification does help the suspension flex properly. Unless you drive like Mario Andretti, this modification will be a good one for you.
Another question often asked is what is the difference between a kit and system when looking at suspension kits. A kit lifts the rear by the use of blocks or add-a-leafs or a combination of those. A system completely replaces the rear leaf springs and offers both better flex and better reliability. Using blocks for lift can be dangerous off road because they can easily break or slip out causing damage to the vehicle. Replacement leaf springs are a much better way to lift the rear of your vehicle.
Another question is whether to get a body lift or suspension lift. A body lift uses longer bolts and bushings of some type to lift the body off the frame. Generally this is not recommended over a suspension lift for off-roading, but it is a cheap alternative to fit bigger tires if necessary. One major disadvantages to body lifts is that the bolts are longer and this puts more strain on them and in extreme situations have been known to break. A suspension lift basically moves the axles away from the frame allowing for fitment of larger tires. This is usually better than a body lift because it also increases travel.
Driveshaft modification is generally not needed for lifts up to 6 inches, more than 6 inches of lift it is recommended that you lengthen your driveshafts to eliminate vibration and increased strain.
Here is a list I have compiled of the different lift heights and the companies that make them:
2 inch lift-coils and alignment cams only: Rancho, Superlift, Skyjacker, BDS, Rough Country
2.5 inch lift: Rough Country, Tuff country
3 inch lift: Rancho
4 inch lift: Skyjacker, Superlift, Rancho, BDS, **** Cepek, Rough Country, Tuff Country, Pro Comp, Trailmaster
6 inch lift: Skyjacker, Superlift, BDS, **** Cepek, Rough Country, Tuff Country, Pro Comp
8 inch lift: Skyjacker
Skyjacker, Superlift, Rancho, BDS, **** Cepek, Pro Comp, Trailmaster and Tough Country all make extended radius arms for the various lift sizes.
Body lifts are available from Performance Accessories in both 2 and 3 inch lift heights.
Another thing to keep in mind when doing a suspension lift is steering. If the stock geometry were to be kept in place, the increased angles would create excessive bumpsteer. To correct this, the steering geometry must be changed. The most common ways to change it are to use a drop pitman arm (either included in most kits or an option), to flip the tie rods to the top of the steering knuckles, to use Superlift's Superrunner steering system, or to use some combination.
Flipping the tie rods to the top of the knuckles works perfect for a 4" lift with the stock pitman arm. For a 6" lift, a drop pitman arm is also needed. In either case, a drop pitman arm will suffice by itself. Superlift's superrunner steering utilizes a drag link, 2 equal length tie rods (as opposed to the stock drag link/ tie rod combo), and adds an idler arm in addition to the drop pitman arm. It is designed for use with Superlift's suspension systems, but most others can be modified to accept it.
There is also another option to lift the rear of the Bronco: a shackle flip. Using either the front hangers for the rear leafs off a F-250/350 (there is some debate as to whether or not F-150 hangers are the same) and to install them in place of the factory rear hangers on the Bronco. This can net anywhere from 3-5.5" inches of lift. The actual amount of lift will vary from application to application and the different methods used. Sky Manufacturing also makes a shackle flip kit that utilizes a new rear hanger for the rear leaf. It accomplishes the same goals as the F-250/350 method.
Another thing to keep in mind when choosing a lift are the brackets themselves. Superlift, Skyjacker, BDS, **** Cepek, and Pro Comp use brackets that have two pivot holes drilled in them, one for 4" and one for 6". This allows you to upgrade to a 6", should you become unsatisfied with your 4" down the road. All that is needed are new shocks and coil springs.
Some companies' brackets are much beefier than others. Superlift, BDS, Tuff Country, Trailmaster, and Rough Country use a drivers' side brackets that bolts on in addition to the existing factory one.
The TTB is a difficult suspension to align, lifting it doesn't make it easier. After lifting, you should take it to a competent alignment shop and have them work on it. If your camber is off too much, you will need adjustment sleeves, which can be pricey. Whether or not you will need these is strictly based on each individual rig. One may need it and another with the exact same kit may not. It is pretty much luck of the draw, but chances are you will need them if you want your Bronco to align properly, especially down the road.
Don't get cheap with the brake lines: buy extended ones as it is a very cheap price to pay considering what they are in control of. by WES, ANDY351, AND MAX.
