Slip Yoke Stuck

I bought a working 90' Bronco XLT 4X4 w/ 351W and upon examination of the undercarriage I noticed a rubber boot was partially missing. I've never worked on drive axles before but after lots of research it appears to be the slip yoke boot that's gone. No real way to replace without removing the driveshaft. So, after following advice and instructions from this site, I marked and removed the rear driveshaft. I cut off the metal straps holding the remnants of the boot using my angled wire cutters. Now I'm ready to put the new boot and clamps on but have one small problem... because the boot was toast the grease ran out and dirt got into the yoke. I've got it standing upright in my garage with JB soaking in. I've managed to get the yoke to move about 1-2' in and out but can't get it more than that. What can I do to get the yoke all the way out so I know if it needs to be replaced? I don't want to start banging on the driveshaft with a ball pein hammer but surely there is some smarter way to get them apart. Please help.

Yo Jon,

Welcome!

Here is a pic of the slip apart and being lubed,

by trucky18..he wrote, "If your bronco suffers from the notorious thunk this is a good time to **** your shaft, if there is a bad time for that?!?" LOL

Keep soaking it with jb. I never did get any info on what else to do in this situation such as heat on the splines. You may need to get a DS from a yard queen.

As you wrote, holding it in a vise and beating the heck out of it probably would Not be good.

Following by Ford:

Lubricate the slip yoke spline with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

I use a 50/50% mix of auto trans. fluid and acetone as a penetrant.

See Ed's Red Recipe ...Penetrating Oil for the masses @

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/ed%27sred.htm

Good luck!

Thanks. Still trying to get it off. I'm German so naturally stubborn and unwilling to give up.

Yo Jon,

WTG!

Maybe this will keep your determination strong, "If your ship doesn't come in, swim out to meet it." by Jonathan Winters

One thought came to me, if you can hang it up with tow straps wound at top to spread the force (or rope), and attach weight to bottom end... let it hang for a few days while feeding it penetrant ?

I got it off finally, or should I say a driveshaft shop got it off. I had no idea I could beat on it with a ball pin hammer. He held it upright, with me helping, and just kept hitting it at the base above the UJ but not hitting the shaft. Rotated 1/2 way every couple hits and it came off. Splines look pretty good. Inside has dirt for sure. What should I use to clean it out?

Yo Jon,

Good!

Ford does not specify and specific cleaner. This is from 96 Bronco Workshop Manual partial @

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm

Same as most earlier years especially 92-96, except for: OBD II in 96; 4WABS (93-96); RABS (87-92); Air Bag (94-96); 3 ***** Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.); R134a in 94-96;

2-piece Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS) used on 5/95 to 96 Broncos & F Series 1/2-ton 4WD;

and a few other items that I still need to research such as Mass Air Flow in 95 5.8 California models and in all 96s, other years used Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP).

...

This Driveshaft info is same for your 90:

"...If, during inspection, the driveshaft and coupling shaft boot is found to be cracked or split, the grease should be checked for contamination. Check the lubricant by rubbing between two fingers. Any gritty feeling indicates a contaminated driveshaft slip yoke and stub shaft. If driveshaft (4602) is operating satisfactorily and the grease does not appear to be contaminated, add grease as described in the assembly portion of this procedure and replace the slip yoke boot. If the grease appears contaminated, disassemble the driveshaft, clean and inspect the stub shaft and driveshaft slip yoke for wear. If splines are excessively worn, replace driveshaft.

If required, remove and replace the U-joints.

Assembly

Install the slip yoke boot with the small diameter side facing the splined stub shaft on the stub shaft. Push the slip yoke boot as far as it will travel on the stub shaft.

Install a small driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp and crimp the clamp using Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.

Compress the slip yoke boot and coat the stub shaft splines with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

Fill the slip yoke boot with approximately 10 grams of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

Slide the large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp onto the barrel of the driveshaft slip yoke.

Align the blind splines on the splined stub shaft and in the driveshaft slip yoke. Push the driveshaft slip yoke onto the stub shaft.

Remove all excess grease from the slip yoke boot and driveshaft slip yoke surfaces. Position the slip yoke boot over the driveshaft slip yoke boot groove.

Move the driveshaft slip yoke in or out in order to obtain the distance of 10 inches between stud shaft weld to the centerline of the driveshaft slip yoke U-joint.

Before installing the new large slip yoke boot clamp, make sure that any air pressure which may have built up in the slip yoke boot is relieved. Carefully insert a screwdriver between the slip yoke boot and the driveshaft slip yoke and allow the trapped air to escape ("burp") from the slip yoke boot. THE AIR MUST BE RELEASED ONLY AFTER THE DRIVESHAFT IS SET AT THE SPECIFIED LENGTH.

Position the new large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp over the slip yoke boot and groove in the driveshaft slip yoke. Crimp the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp with Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A..."

See depictions @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj51008.htm

Thanks for all the info. I bought some brake cleaner yesterday to shoot down in there and I'll just keep cleaning and blasting with air until its back to like new again. I'll post photos later to show what it looks like now but right now I'm dealing with a blown headgasket and getting them replaced. The hardest part about working on this truck is honestly the height needed to reach. I'm 6'2" and standing on a platform and still struggling to reach the back because the 33" tires. I suggested to my wife that I get strung up from an engine hoist and descend in like Tom Cruise in MI.

Yo Jon,

Consider;

Removing hood

Use 2 step ladders next to each front fender, lay a 2x12 or two across ladders (secure side by side planks with left over 2x12)