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Shane Parker

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Just signed up. Buying an 88 bronco fixer upper in the next couple days. Can't wait to get it and start rebuilding.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo Shane,

Welcome!

We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule.

One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).

Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:

While you take a test drive, have someone to stay behind or follow and check for leak puddles, exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc.

- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet? Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford

- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight.

- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements at a body shop.

check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass

- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings

- look for some maint records or contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN)

or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.

If no maint records are avail; check and replace if needed all filters and fluids.

Esp if it is an Auto tranny; fluid level; when at norm op temp; after running thru all gears & reverse; no burnt toast or whitish (water) deposits on dip stick.

- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.

- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)

- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com

- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace

- body mount deterioration and frame rust

transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop and/or the motor connector is fouled, etc.

Also the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning

If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.

do a SELF TEST for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)s by my pal BroncoJoe @

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/

Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first & KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion.

miesk5 NOTE: "1987 was the year the rear anti-lock brakes (RABS) were standardized on Broncos; "...Rear-wheel ABS is another type of ABS available on some light trucks. It works in a similar fashion to four-wheel ABS, but monitors and operates only the rear wheels, especially important with light trucks, which often carry heavy loads supported primarily by the rear suspension and wheels..."

RABS Self Test & Diagnosis Codes; "...The possible flashout codes are listed and explained in the Flash Codes Chart. Note that Codes 1 and 16 are not used. Flashout Codes Whenever the yellow REAR ABS light comes on during normal operation, a flashout code may be obtained to aid in problem diagnosis. RABS II modules have been designed with Keep Alive Memory to preserve stored codes during key-off. If the red BRAKE light is also on, due to a grounding of the fluid level circuit (perhaps low brake fluid), no flashout code will be flashed and the REAR ABS light will remain on steadily. NOTE: If there is more than one system fault only the first recognized flashout code may be obtained. Obtaining the Flashout Code A flashout code may be obtained only when the yellow REAR ABS light is on. No code will be flashed if the system is OK. There are certain faults (those associated with the fluid level switch or loss of power to the module) that will cause the system to be deactivated and the REAR ABS light to be illuminated, but will not provide a diagnostic flashout code. Before obtaining the flashout code, drive the vehicle to a level area, and place the shift lever in PARK for automatic transmissions and NEUTRAL for manual transmissions. Notice whether the red BRAKE light is on or not (for future reference) and then apply the parking brake." Read more at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/280857

Good luck!

 
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Shane Parker

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Thanks for the info. I'm sure there will be a lot to check over before and after I get it.

 

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