What is a GOOD replacement Water Pump for a 5.0 Bronco? One that will
- Thread starter ski.dive
- Start date
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Yo,
This fits your:
1990 Ford Bronco
5.0L V8 Gas
Motorcraft PW254 New Water Pump
by Motorcraft
4.5 out of 5 stars 3 customer reviews
Was: $69.88
Price: $69.39 & FREE Shipping. Details
Only 1 left in stock (more on the way).
Want it Wednesday, June 15? Order within 4 hrs 31 mins and choose Two-Day Shipping at checkout. Details
Ships from and sold by Amazon.com.
Durable
Delivers efficient performance
Easy to install
Provided with strong housing
12 months warranty
› See more product details
25 new from $65.38
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-PW254-New-Water-Pump/dp/B000C5HQW8/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Ford%7C54&Model=Bronco%7C633&Year=1990%7C1990&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive
Install tips by Bill C.
That's the water pump way down there.. Looks like we need to move some things around.
I decided to remove the radiator so I would not accidentally damage it. I used an 8MM socket to take off the hose clamps
I also took off the rubber air inlets so I could have more room to work. 8MM works here also
A 10MM is used for the fan shroud and the radiator supports. The extension is helpful at this stage.
I used a few extensions to get to that lower radiator hose clamp. As a footnote, I used a reducing adapter for the smaller socket. Most of my tools are Craftsman but somewhere, I picked up this really crappy Chinese set. The lack of quality showed and before the end of this project, the adapter had broken.
a 1/2 inch line wrench and a 5/8 open end is used to take off the transmission lines. USE A LINE WRENCH. trying to cheap out here will probably round off the radiator nut. Hold the larger nut with the 5/8 and loosen the 1/2 inch one so it spins. Then, loosen up the 5/8 all the way out of the radiator. Keep an eye on the line and make sure that 1/2 is spinning with the 5/8 so you don't kink the line.
With the radiator and shroud out of the way, this is what we are looking at.
There is a LOT more room to work now.
Notice the lower is still attached to the water pump. It is a pain to take off so I left it on until the pump came out.
an 11MM box end wrench was used for the fan bolts. I found it easier to do this while the belt was still on. I like the box end because the chances of it slipping are removed. The fan itself as a spot where the blades are spaced further apart. You can spin the fan so that the gap is at the bolt you need to unscrew. It makes it easier.
A 5/8 socket, a solid socket wrench and a 4 foot leverage makes quick work of the belt.
After removing the two small lines at the top of the pump, it was time to remove the AC/power steering bracket. This takes 13 and 14MM sockets.
OK.. I got lazy and pulled out the air ratchet. 13MM bolts take off the rest of those holding on the water pump. If you are on a smooth concrete garage floor, you might want to have some quik dry or kitty litter around. Antifreeze is slick.
This sediment did concern me a bit. It came off easy enough but, hopefully all of that rust is from the old radiator. In any case, I will flush it a few more times just to be safe.
The old pump verses the new pump.. Yeah, it was time for a new one. If you look at the old pump in about the 2:00 position, that is where it was leaking from.
Before putting the gasket sealer on, test fit the gasket first to make sure you have the correct side exposed.
Once you put the gasket on and put the sealant on the other side, wipe off and excess. You DID clean the engine block already, right?
Everything goes back together the same way it came off. You can't see it but I took the time to paint the fan blades black. Not a big deal.
The only thing not shown is the leverage bar I used for the belt tension spring. This is all I needed and you can do this in your driveway if you don't need the air tools. The tire inflation thing was used because I took all the air out of both front tires to make working on the truck a bit easier.
A few lessons learned from all of this:
1: If you can, completely drain the radiator AND the block before starting on this. Quite a bit of coolant came out which made the floor very slick.
2: When removing the bolts for the water pump, keep track of what bolts go where. some are longer then others and it makes the end of the job a bit easier.
3: I soaked everything with PB blaster a day before working on this. I SWEAR it makes life easier.
4: The AC/PS setup is heavy. A friend is very helpful for putting it back on.
See pics at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/21414/72161
This fits your:
1990 Ford Bronco
5.0L V8 Gas
Motorcraft PW254 New Water Pump
by Motorcraft
4.5 out of 5 stars 3 customer reviews
Was: $69.88
Price: $69.39 & FREE Shipping. Details
Only 1 left in stock (more on the way).
Want it Wednesday, June 15? Order within 4 hrs 31 mins and choose Two-Day Shipping at checkout. Details
Ships from and sold by Amazon.com.
Durable
Delivers efficient performance
Easy to install
Provided with strong housing
12 months warranty
› See more product details
25 new from $65.38
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-PW254-New-Water-Pump/dp/B000C5HQW8/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Ford%7C54&Model=Bronco%7C633&Year=1990%7C1990&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive
Install tips by Bill C.
That's the water pump way down there.. Looks like we need to move some things around.
I decided to remove the radiator so I would not accidentally damage it. I used an 8MM socket to take off the hose clamps
I also took off the rubber air inlets so I could have more room to work. 8MM works here also
A 10MM is used for the fan shroud and the radiator supports. The extension is helpful at this stage.
I used a few extensions to get to that lower radiator hose clamp. As a footnote, I used a reducing adapter for the smaller socket. Most of my tools are Craftsman but somewhere, I picked up this really crappy Chinese set. The lack of quality showed and before the end of this project, the adapter had broken.
a 1/2 inch line wrench and a 5/8 open end is used to take off the transmission lines. USE A LINE WRENCH. trying to cheap out here will probably round off the radiator nut. Hold the larger nut with the 5/8 and loosen the 1/2 inch one so it spins. Then, loosen up the 5/8 all the way out of the radiator. Keep an eye on the line and make sure that 1/2 is spinning with the 5/8 so you don't kink the line.
With the radiator and shroud out of the way, this is what we are looking at.
There is a LOT more room to work now.
Notice the lower is still attached to the water pump. It is a pain to take off so I left it on until the pump came out.
an 11MM box end wrench was used for the fan bolts. I found it easier to do this while the belt was still on. I like the box end because the chances of it slipping are removed. The fan itself as a spot where the blades are spaced further apart. You can spin the fan so that the gap is at the bolt you need to unscrew. It makes it easier.
A 5/8 socket, a solid socket wrench and a 4 foot leverage makes quick work of the belt.
After removing the two small lines at the top of the pump, it was time to remove the AC/power steering bracket. This takes 13 and 14MM sockets.
OK.. I got lazy and pulled out the air ratchet. 13MM bolts take off the rest of those holding on the water pump. If you are on a smooth concrete garage floor, you might want to have some quik dry or kitty litter around. Antifreeze is slick.
This sediment did concern me a bit. It came off easy enough but, hopefully all of that rust is from the old radiator. In any case, I will flush it a few more times just to be safe.
The old pump verses the new pump.. Yeah, it was time for a new one. If you look at the old pump in about the 2:00 position, that is where it was leaking from.
Before putting the gasket sealer on, test fit the gasket first to make sure you have the correct side exposed.
Once you put the gasket on and put the sealant on the other side, wipe off and excess. You DID clean the engine block already, right?
Everything goes back together the same way it came off. You can't see it but I took the time to paint the fan blades black. Not a big deal.
The only thing not shown is the leverage bar I used for the belt tension spring. This is all I needed and you can do this in your driveway if you don't need the air tools. The tire inflation thing was used because I took all the air out of both front tires to make working on the truck a bit easier.
A few lessons learned from all of this:
1: If you can, completely drain the radiator AND the block before starting on this. Quite a bit of coolant came out which made the floor very slick.
2: When removing the bolts for the water pump, keep track of what bolts go where. some are longer then others and it makes the end of the job a bit easier.
3: I soaked everything with PB blaster a day before working on this. I SWEAR it makes life easier.
4: The AC/PS setup is heavy. A friend is very helpful for putting it back on.
See pics at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/21414/72161
