Brake/Hazards not working properly

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Blue1984Beast

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1984 Bronco XLT 351 Windsor.   I searched the forum for answers and came up empty.

When I bought it used, there was a rigged trailer light harness and a rigged trailer power braking system. The turn signals would work for a while, then blow a fuse. Further inspection showed numerous snap splices, as well as a rigged turn signal system. Brake lights and hazards worked, though. I removed all the rigged trailer wiring, ripped out the harnesses etc, removed the snap splices, and rewired the rear lights to match the factory wiring diagrams. I didn't use new wires, just connected the old wires according to color coding.

Once this was done, I replaced all the bulbs. Turn signals worked, no blown fuses. Front hazards worked. Running lights worked. Here's the issue:

Brake lights don't work.

Rear hazards only work if a turn signal is activated.

I replaced the brake switch and the plug that connects to it (green wires)

I've tested the circuit from the fuse box to the plugs to the brake switch up to where it goes to steering column.

I made an extended wire, put a probe at the brake switch and probed the wire going directly to tail light. That tested good as well.

At this point, I said ***** it, and packed it in for the night. When I was cleaning up, the brake was still depressed by a two by four jammed against the seat. I went to close the tailgate and noticed brake lights were on. So I went with it. The next day, about 12 hours later, brake lights still worked. I got home about 8 hours later, only the passenger brake light worked, then a few minutes later it quit working.

I had my kid sit behind the Bronco while I went through each wire between each connection or plug and jiggled it, thinking it might be a loose connection. Nada.

The only thing I haven't been able to examine is the Directional Switch inside the steering column, because I don't have a steering wheel puller.

Now I'm back to where I started. No brake lights. Rear hazards only work if turn signal is activated. I've asked everyone I know who has any auto or electrical knowledge, and they're drawing a blank. One friend suggested a bad relay, but I can't find a relay on the wiring diagram that would cause this.

If anyone can suggest what I should do next, or what might be the issue, I'd greatly appreciate it. I've been messing with this for a week and I'm getting to the point where my next option would be taking it to a mechanic and paying more money than I can afford...

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo,

Ok, I will try to find a wiring diagram and look it over plus go through my books.

You can rent a steering get wheel puller using parts store rent a tool or loan a tool program with fully refundable deposit, such as at,

http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/steering-wheel-puller

This may be similar to your 84;

Turn Signal Switch Replacement & Repair Info w/Tilt Wheel in an 89; "...The white plastic that takes up half the column is the turn signal switch. The red box in the top right is the steering wheel lock. When you turn the key, it goes down. The switch is only held down by two screws. One where my ***** driver is, and another, same spot, on the bottom. When I removed by wheel, I saw my top ***** sitting at the bottom of the column. Once I put the ***** back in and tightened them both up, everything was fine. The switch now stays in place, and the lever is now able to push the tilt bar backwards, releasing the wheel. I didn't have to replace my switch, but you see how easy it is now if you must do it. I thought about it - everything's off right now...spend 30 bucks and never think about this again... But then again it took me 10 minutes to get to the switch - I'll save my 30 and go drop it at poker. Check out last photo... If your turn signal does not snap back after turning, read on. Wanted to quickly explain how that works. When you lit the lever, the switch locks in place (green box in pic). There is a little ring around the steering shaft. As you turn, that ring rotates around the shaft until a little block on the ring hits an arm (red box) and the arm releases the lock. When my whole switch was loose, it moved the ring up the shaft a bit, and the little block wasn't hitting the arm. If your lever doesn't snap back after a turn, either the ring moved up, or the plastic lever and/or arm on the switch broke..."

Source: by Brahma502 at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/15076/71228

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....

I believe others will have more info for you soon. Some come in at night.

 
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Blue1984Beast

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Ok, that's not the diagram in my book. One difference i noticed right away is the Aux Battery. This is what I have... I'm no electrician and have never done electrical work on any vehicle so bear with me...

My Bronco has power windows, locks, etc so your diagram looks more accurate than mine. Gotta love Haynes. I'll print it out today and trace some wires after work.

IMG_4261.JPG

 

Seabronc

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OK here is a wiring diagram that eliminates all the other crap.  The ground for the lights is at the dash G701.  Often the wires break / corrode off the connector that is located on the cross member just behind the left rear bumper.

Hope that helps,

:)>-

PG48.jpg

 
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Blue1984Beast

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Spent 3 weeks in the shop for a leaky rear main seal, got it back last night. Apparently it needs a new turn signal switch. I'll be doing that this weekend. Thanks again for all the info!

 

Seabronc

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OK here is a wiring diagram that eliminates all the other crap.  The ground for the lights is at the dash G701.  Often the wires break / corrode off the connector that is located on the cross member just behind the left rear bumper.

Hope that helps,

:)>-
I should have attached this with the circuit diagram.

PG50.jpg

 
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Blue1984Beast

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Replaced the switch after some frustration, all lights are working. Thanks for all the input!

 

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