93 Bronco auto hubs not locking

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93broncokid

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Hey everybody! I'm so happy to be apart of Broncozone. So I purchased a 93 bronco with the auto 4wd, which the 4wd does engage, but the hubs aren't locking. I bought the bronco at an auction, so I don't have any history or owners manual. I'm curious what I should check...

Thank you!

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo 93,

Welcome!

The auto hubs are known to fail.

Our 96, bought new had 2 auto hub failures... they were the 3 ***** type...

We and many other owners hav3switched to manual hubs.

Such as;

5 ***** to Warn® & Bearing Replacement w/ Bearing Locknut Torque Settings in a 90; and, Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent ) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.).." by 90beater (Topher, Chris)!!!!

http://bronco.tophersworld.com/writeup_hubs.htm

I believe you have 5 ***** hubs..

5 ***** auto hub Diagram; "...These use a single thick splined shim between the C-clip & the spindle to hold the axle stub in place. Later designs used 3 washers. Install three washers in order: metal washer first, plastic washer second and splined washer last.

Before the C-washer can be installed, the stub shaft must be pushed fully outboard against the inner spindle seal by reaching behind the steering knuckle to the u-joint..." by Steve at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/170464

And at

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/895156

Site is very Slow to load

Operational Test; Remember to block the wheels. This would work for testing manual hubs too, just lock them 1st; "...Place transfer case in 2HI or Neutral. 2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only). 3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only). After step 3 the hubs should lock, you'll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7. 4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working. 5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only). 6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning. Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them) 7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs. To check for transfercase engagement. 1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO. 2. lie under vehicle. 3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction. 4. If you can turn the front drive shaft then your transfer case is not shifting properly..." by Gacknar

This is by Chilton, but I question some info such as brake band and drag sleeve. Suggest you get a Haynes manual. I like the older red cover edition;

http://broncozone.com/uploads/monthly_12_2013/post-3816-0-73144400-1387894675.jpg

#36058

...

Removal

Remove the 5 capscrews-Torx® bit TX25-and remove hub cap assembly from the hub.

Take care to avoid dropping the spring, ball bearing, bearing race or retainer!

Remove the rubber seal.

Remove the seal bridge-a small metal stamping-from the retainer ring space.

Remove lock ring seated in the groove of the wheel hub by compressing the ends with a needle nose pliers, while pulling the hub lock from the hub body. If body assembly does not slide out easily, use an appropriate puller.

If the hub and spindle are being removed:

Remove the C-washer from the groove in the stub shaft.

Remove the splined spacer from the shaft.

Remove the outer locknut, locking washer and inner bearing locknut.

Pull the hub and bearings from the spindle.

See the Wheel Bearing procedure for cleaning and packing the bearings.

Assembly

Wash all parts in a non-flammable solvent and let them air dry.

Lubricate the brake band and drag sleeve with 1.5g (0.05 oz.) of Automatic Hublock Grease E1TZ-19590-A (ESL-M1C193A) (Darmex Spec. DX-123-LT), or equivalent. Work the lubricant over and under the spring.

Dip the locking hub body (not the cap or brake band/drag sleeve) into Dexron®II ATF and allow it to drip off the excess.

Assemble the brake band so that one tang is on each side of the plastic outer cage, located in the window of the steel inner cage. It will probably be necessary to **** these parts to engage the tangs as the drag sleeve is positioned against the face of the cam follower.

Install the washer and snapring.

Installation

Position the hub and bearings on the spindle. Adjust the bearings as described below.

Install the splined spacer and C-washer.

Wipe off excess grease from the splines and start the locking hub assembly into the hub body. Make sure the large tangs are aligned with the lockwasher and the outside diameter, and the inside diameter splines are aligned with the hub and axle shaft splines.

Install the retaining ring while pushing the locking hub assembly into the hub body.

Install the seal bridge, narrow end first.

Install the rubber seal.

Install the cover, making sure the ball bearing, spring and race are in position.

Install the 5 Torx® screws and tighten them to 40-50 inch lbs. by tighten one, then skipping one, and so on until they are all tightened.

...

 
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93broncokid

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Thank you Miesk5 for the info! I have a 3 ***** hub, and I can't find any kits online or in my napa store that are that style. Is there one that you know of?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo,

YW!

& thanks to those who wrote the narratives and posted pics for all of us.

Those 3 ***** hubs aren'the available new. Try a local yard that uses Hollander Interchange, they can search other yards and have it shipped.

Ask for av $ back guarantee if the hubs are bad.

btw,For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;

http://www.hollanderparts.com/

Go through the year, make, Bronco drill.

Probably won't see a listing because they cut back on details in recent past

--

or

http://www.copartfinder.com/finder/searchMake.d

Has Vehicle Pics! They show about 4 - 5 pics per vehicle incl. interior/dash, back seat, front & rear and engine bay. On some pics you can see the auto hub! Such as this..

http://images.copart.com/website/data/pix/20151002/33856155_09X.JPG

AL'S AUTO PARTS INC

Address: TREVOSE , PA 19053

VIN: 1FMEU15N8TLB92092

Date Sold: 12/26/15

Phone: (215) 322-2199

Email: [email protected]

...

http://www.car-parts.com/

http://www.picknpull.com

This is a Company name w/yard locations in various states

Also for obsolete parts by Ford pn:

http://www.partsvoice.com/

http://www.rearcounter.com

http://www.greensalescompany.com

 

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