yo,
Yes same for 93.
Glass Replacement & Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...Open tailgate. Remove inside cover access panel and retaining screws. Remove inside cover panel support and retaining screws. Remove inside cover watershield. Manually close both tailgate latches and raise the tailgate glass. Remove four nuts retaining tailgate back window glass (42006) and back window glass bracket (422B18) to back window regulator. If tailgate has heated glass option, disconnect two terminals (driver's side). Grind off four rivets, two on each back window glass bracket to tailgate glass. Punch out four rivets and remove four door window glass channel bracket retainers (234A46) and door window glass bracket spacers (234A44). Remove screws and pull out tailgate upper corner seal assemblies, one on each side. Snap out inside and outside tailgate weatherstrips with tool. Slide tailgate back window glass out from tailgate assembly. Installation, Slide glass midway into tailgate assembly. Connect heated glass wires, if equipped. Install back window glass bracket C-channels onto the tailgate window regulator arm slide guides. Position tailgate back window glass over back window glass bracket C-channel studs and install four door window glass bracket spacers, door window glass channel bracket retainers and rivets. Lower tailgate back window glass to connect heated glass wiring terminals. Close tailgate and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure smooth operation. Install watershield. Install inside cover panel support (one *****). Install ten inside cover access panel screws. Close door and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure proper function..."
Source: by Ford via
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/stj1b042.htm
see illustrations
&
Glass Replacement; "...If the motor runs but doesn't move the glass, push the glass up for access. The glass is strong enough to support its own weight fully extended, but no extra weight..." miesk5 note, make sure the tailgate is resting DOWN fully (horizontally) by pushing or sitting on it before pulling glass out by hand (or closing driver side Latch by hand and using Key sw or driver's Dash switch to energize motor) because the TG's Support cables need to fully stretched. I use a standard height saw horse with a blanket folded to support da glass & sliding saw horse under da glass. To extend the glass, I close the driver's side latch's jaws on side of tailgate, I use a ***** driver to close the jaws, so that the glass can be moved by TG Key Switch or Dash Switch to work on internals; when done & window is retracted within the TG, use the Handle to release the jaws & close the TG; & in his #7; "If the motor doesn't run, remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side - see below) that hold the regulator tracks to the glass brackets. Bend the regulator arms down slightly to pull the studs out of the brackets, and then push the glass up. Remember to FULLY lower the glass before lifting or closing the t/g..."
Source: by Steve
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/2742/12689
see more TG info
Glass Replacement (most pics are gone); Bronco Journal October 10th, 2002; Work Project: Tailgate Glass Repair Journal Entry #7. "...Hello, this is my work journal for October 10th, 2002. Today was a day of accomplishment. It was time to put the tailgate back together and see if I could get the window to go up and down without being lazy. The problem was it would labor at about the mid-point of the tailgate. I already had many components removed from the tailgate - including the motor and the window. It was time to put it all back in and hope that things worked. What I had to do, was replace or repair the wiring harness. There was damage that was repair-attempted by someone at the exit from the tailgate to the main body (behind the taillight). The restrictions that caused the window/motor to labor was many - much of the regulator assembly had to be cleaned and oiled. The brackets that attach to the window pane were also filthy and needed cleaning. This was a big job for sure. I called Ford Parts to see what a new wiring harness (with integral switches and heated) would cost...yikes, it was over $211.00 CDN. A little steep, so it goes without saying, I decided to repair any damage, replace and bad segments and re-lash the whole assembly. Thus it was done. Removing the Glass. To remove the glass from a Bronco's tailgate is rather simple. First, you have to grind off the rivets that hold the brackets to the glass. I used a dremel and a cutoff wheel for this job. The rivets simply are pushed out once the heads are cut off. The brackets are removed by sliding them off the regulator arm ****. The brackets were cleaned and a new coat of grease was applied to the inner tracks. The bracket as removed - soiled, grungy and some corrosion. A brass wire brush on the drill made short work of cleaning the bracket. Click on the photo to see a BIG picture. The next step is to remove all the weather stripping and inserts. The first to remove are the two corner pieces - each secured by a SM ***** at the tailgate sides. The outer weather strip also has two screws - one at each end. It is then removed by pulling straight out. The inner strip is also removed by pulling straight out - it has no screws. The tailgate window glass is now easy to remove by pulling it straight out of the tailgate. Make sure you have a buddy or wife to help here as you do not want to slip and drop the glass. Don't forget to unplug the defroster plugs from the harness to the pane first - and watch them as you remove the glass - they could break. I broke one like a ****** but was able to solder it back on with flux and torch and 60/40. Once the glass is out - I removed the wiring harness. You have to take the driver side glass guide rail off (2 bolts) to get where the harness is attached to the inner wall of the tailgate. It is secured by a couple push plugs into a small bracket. The KEY switch also needs to be removed and this is done by simply yanking the wire clip that holds it in place. A few days before this project, I was lowering my glass - and it all died. I thought I blew the motor - so I wanted to remove it for inspection and cleaning - and possible repair or replacement. I removed the motor and tested it out with a 12 V 11 A power supply - it worked, so it only needed to be cleaned and new grease applied to the pinion gear. To remove the motor - first remove the three bolts as indicated in the photo. The motor will slide out towards the passenger side. However, before removing the bolts, you have to jam the regulator so that it does not kick back when the motor is removed. This is accomplished by placing a block(s) of wood against the driver's side regulator arm and the inner tailgate. See the photo below. Make sure the regulator arm is secure or you could lose a finger - the regulator is under tension - there is a heavy return spring in the assembly. Jamming the regulator BEFORE removing the motor assembly. After removing and cleaning all the components - the installation was basically the reverse of the disassembly outlined above. I will be purchasing a new tailgate shell in the near future, so I did not replace the weather stripping at this point - they were all in good shape - but I will replace them with a new tailgate in the future. I did have to make some splices to run new wire for a section of the wiring harness. If you do this - make sure the connections are well heat-shrunk and taped to prevent moisture from getting in and causing the same problems all over again. And that is pretty much it - in a summarized fashion that is - I did not want to list the 100 things that one needs to do to rebuild the tailgate as I did. I did re-space the tailgate outer skin from the inner wall to make sure the glass did not bind in its curve at the midpoint. Someone must have backed into something in its history - a small dent in the tailgate provided the evidence. The glass would bind at its midpoint within the weather stripping - and prying the mouth to an equal distance along its entire length solved this problem. This of course was done without the glass in the gate. As a final note - to install the glass back into the tailgate - you have to rivet the brackets back to the nylon disks on the glass. I used 3/16 inch aluminum pop rivets with backing washers. It did the trick - like new. (1) Pop riveting the brackets to the glass. (2) A new run of wires and protective wrap on the harness. The connector is behind the taillight lens..."
Source: by RFR (Mark B) at
http://web.archive.org/web/20081202181804/http://web.archive.org/web/20030709205117/rfr.htmlplanet.com/bronco/journal/journal_page07.html
but his pics are gone exc for the motor
Glass Roller Installation pics in a 95
Source: by Ian L (stangmata, stangmata50l, Bronco) at
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4089&s=18220
Glass Removal from a Junk Yard Bronco; "...Tools you will need, 12v-18v cordless drill, Wire Strippers. What i did was remove the access panel . Find the motor leads ( they should be red and yellow). Strip the end of the leads near the bottom of the tailgate (give yourself as much slack as possible). remove the battery from the drill. touch the motor leads to the battery and listen for movement. If you don't hear something at first try the wires the opposite way. Let the glass come down about half way. Than remove the nuts holding the glass. remove glass and install in your Bronco..."
Source: by Custom_300 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
