yo J,
I never did this, on A "MODERN" FORD V8; HELPED MY DAD DO IT ON A FORD 6 TRUCK ENGINE THO AND IT WAS A JOB...
many have replaced oil pan/gasket & pump, etc by lifting eng slightly
Oil Pan+Pump Replacment in a 95, Source: by TRUCKY18 (Bco) at SuperMotors.net
Excerpts;
"...With the engine jacked up you can un-bolt the oil pan, and the oil pump. The oil pump has two bolts in it, one of them visible in this picture; it’s the small bolt right near the harmonic balancer in this picture. Once the oil pump is un-bolted, just let it fall into the pan. You also have to remove a nut the holds the pick-up tube to the engine, it’s about midway back.
To get the pan out I had to disconnect my exhaust where the muffler meets the cat, not hard since I put a new cat back on 2 years ago.
also had to remove the muffler from its hangers
also have to remove the inspection plate on the tranny, yes it was that close, but by disconnecting the exhaust and removing this piece; I did not have to take the upper intake off. YAY!
With the pan off you can inspect the bottom end of the motor, everything looked ship shape to me. You can see where the oil pick-up attaches, it is the main bolt which is also a stud. (If that makes sense.)
The pump and the pick-up will still be attached when the pan come off, I thought it was easier to do it this way. Make sure you clean the pick-up tube, mine did not have anything in it, but I cleaned it anyway.
set it all in the pan and ran the pump backwards by hand to prime it, don’t want to start up dry.
Now you have to bolt in the oil pump and pick-up. Easier said than done, because the oil pump was heavier it was a PAIN to hold it in place with one finger and try to get a bolt in, and this was also when I played around with the pump shaft for frickin’ ever. But once you get the pump on just bolt the pan on. Making sure the gasket made a good seal.
http://broncozone.com/topic/22147-whats-the-trick-with-oil-pump-and-oil-pan/
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/3749/20906
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took the pan out without removing the motor on my 88'.
Jacked up the engine a few inches off it's mounts...placed some wood in between the mounts and the engine made sure it wouldn't fall (couple of strategically placed straps) and then removed the jack and the pan slid right out the back side by the transmission. It was a bit of a pain sure..but I was able to completely remove the oil pan without much fuss...cleaned it up a bit, put my gasket on and slid the pan back under the engine...threaded in the bolts and got the jack to take weight back off the blocks I used...took the blocks and straps off and lowered back onto the motor mounts....tightened everything back up and drove off into the sunset.
by Veritas9
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I'm saying it's the best, quickest, cheapest, least-frustrating method for ANYONE with a V8. An engine hoist is cheap to rent, and if you plan it out (read & collect tools), and pick it up one morning, even on your first time, you should be able to return the hoist the next day. I've done V8 pan gaskets both ways a few times each, and I finally realized it takes LONGER, and comes out worse, doing it in-chassis. That's why I'm trying to save you the hassle.
is a nightmare for an in-chassis V8. Even seeing those bends is a PITA, which is why I always recommend pulling it first.
By STEVE
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Here is info from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 and Bronco Vehicles Equipped with 5.0L or 5.8L MFI Engines Workshop Manual (partial)
Section 03-01B: Engine, 5.0L and 5.8L MFI
Crankshaft Main Bearings
IN-VEHICLE SERVICE
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj31b31.htm
EXCERPTS;
The main bearing inserts are selective fit. Refer to Section 03-00.
Removal
1.Drain the crankcase. Remove the oil level dipstick (6750). Remove the oil pan (6675)and related parts.
2.Remove the oil pump screen cover and tube (6622) and the oil pump (6600).
3.Replace one crankshaft main bearing (6333) at a time, leaving the other crankshaft main bearings securely fastened. Remove the main bearing cap to which new crankshaft main bearings are to be installed.
4.Insert Main Bearing Insert Tool TOOL-6331-E in the oil hole in the crankshaft (6303).
5.Rotate the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation to force the crankshaft main bearing out of the cylinder block (6010).
6.Clean each crankshaft journal. Inspect the journals and ****** faces (****** bearing) for nicks, burrs or bearing pickup that would cause premature crankshaft main bearing wear.
7.If the rear crankshaft main bearing is being replaced, remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seal (6701).
Installation
1.To install an upper crankshaft main bearing, place the plain end of the crankshaft main bearing over the shaft on the locking tang side of the block and partially install the crankshaft main bearing so that Main Bearing Insert Tool TOOL-6331-E can be inserted in the oil hole in the crankshaft. With Main Bearing Insert Tool TOOL-6331-E in the hole in the crankshaft, rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction of engine rotation until the crankshaft main bearing seats itself. Remove the tool.
2.Install the bearing cap.
3.Select-fit the bearing for proper clearance. Refer to Section 03-00.
4.If the crankshaft main bearing is being replaced on journal number 1, 2 or 4, apply a coat of Motorcraft X0-10W30-QSP or -DSP engine oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E to the journal and crankshaft main bearings and install the bearing cap. Tighten the cap bolts. On 5.0L engines (6007), tighten cap bolts to 82-95 Nm (60-70 lb-ft); on 5.8L engines, tighten to 129-142 Nm (95-105 lb-ft).
5.NOTE: Join components within 15 minutes of applying specified bead size of silicone rubber.
Before replacing rear main cap, apply a 1.58mm (1/16-inch) diameter bead of Silicone Rubber F4AZ-19562-B or equivalent meeting Ford specifications WSE-M4G323-A1 and ESE-M4G195-A in shaded area of cylinder block as shown.
Item Part Number Description
1 — Apply 1.58mm (1.16-In.) Dia. Bead of Silicone Rubber F4AZ-19562-B or WSE-M4G323-A1 and ESE-M4G195-A Sealer As Indicated on Bearing Cap (Both Sides)
2 — Seal Groove
3 — Leave 3.10mm (1/8-In.) Gap for Sealer Expansion
4 — 1.58mm (1/16-In.) Dia. Bead Silicone Rubber F4AZ-19562-B or WSE-M4G323-A1 and ESE-M4G195-A Sealer
5 6010 Cylinder Block
6 — From Forward Face of Slinger Groove to Rear Face of Block
7 6333 Crankshaft Main Bearing
6.Lubricate the journal with Motorcraft XO-10W30 QSP or DSP engine oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E and install the rear main bearing cap. Tighten the cap bolts on 5.0L engines to 82-95 Nm (60-70 lb-ft); on 5.8L engines to 129-142 Nm (95-105 lb-ft).
7.If the ****** bearing cap (No. 3 main bearing) has been removed, install it as follows:
Lubricate the journal with Motorcraft XO-10W30-QSP or DSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E engine oil and install the ****** bearing cap with the bolts finger-tight. Pry the crankshaft forward against the ****** surface of the upper half of the ****** bearing. Hold the crankshaft cap to the rear. This will align the ****** surfaces of both halves of the crankshaft ****** main bearing (6337). Retain the forward pressure on the crankshaft. Tighten the cap bolts on 5.0L engines to 82-95 Nm (60-70 lb-ft); on 5.8L engines to 129-142 Nm (95-105 lb-ft).
8.Install a new crankshaft rear oil seal.
9.Force crankshaft toward the rear of the engine.
10.Check crankshaft end play. Refer to Section 03-00.
****** Bearing Cap, Installation
11.Clean the oil pump screen cover and tube. Prime the oil pump by filling the inlet opening with oil and rotating the oil pump intermediate shaft (6A618) until oil emerges from the outlet opening. Install the oil pump and oil pump screen cover and tube.
12.Position the oil pan gaskets on the oil pan. Install the oil pan and related parts. Install the oil level dipstick.
13. CAUTION: To prevent oil from entering the PCV system during air-powered oil fills, the closure hose should be disconnected from the oil fill pipe (6A868) and positioned away from the oil source. Cover the hose port with a shop towel to prevent oil from spilling onto the engine during oil fill. Reconnect the closure hose after the oil has been filled to the proper level.
Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quality of engine oil. Start the engine and check for oil pressure. Operate the engine at fast idle and check for oil leaks.
See Diagrams
