'86 fsb NEED HELP!!!

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johnnyD

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So a couple weekends ago we had the brilliant idea of getting the truck stuck in some sand. After getting it pulled out, it was driving pretty weird and before I could get it home the rear wheels were falling off... Literally. They're still bolted on and attached to the rod inside the rear end but by the time I could pull off the road, each wheel was about a foot and a half out from where they should be. It's kind of hard to explain but that was the best I can do. I heard from someone that they've seen it before and that it wasn't too awful hard to fix, so I wanted to see if anyone has some insight before I go and buy a new rear end for it! Any help is appreciated guys! We lifter it up and pushed the tires back into place but this is a picture of the driver side still about 6 inches out from the brakeimage.jpg

 
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miesk5

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yo J,

You should have it all inspected for other damage;

C-Clip, aka u-washer that holds axle shaft in-place on an 8.8 Location & Removal in an 86

Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/191039

C-Clip Source & pic; Item #32364

Source: by our Sponsor, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard

8.8 Axle C-Clip.jpg

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Ford-88-Axle-C-Clip-Each/productinfo/32364/

Item Number: 32364

Unit Price: $5.50

R&R in a 96 but similar by Ford;

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj52g06.htm

========

http://content.chiltonsonline.com/content/images/8576/images/85767938.pdf

Exploded view of the Ford 8.8 inch integral carrier rear drive axle

R&R in an 86 Bronco by Chilton;

1.Raise and safely support the vehicle on jack stands

2.Remove the wheels from the brake drums.

3.Place a drain pan under the housing and drain the lubricant by loosening the housing cover.

4.Remove the locks securing the brake drums to the axle shaft flanges and remove the drums.

5.Remove the housing cover and gasket.

6.Remove the side gear pinion shaft lockbolt and the side gear pinion shaft.

7.Push the axle shafts inward and remove the C-locks from the inner end of the axle shafts. Temporarily replace the shaft and lockbolt to retain the differential gears in position.

8.Remove the axle shafts with a slide hammer. Be sure the seal is not damaged by the splines on the axle shaft.

9.Remove the bearing and oil seal from the housing. Both the seal and bearing can be removed with a slide hammer

10.Two types of bearings are used on some axles, one requiring a press fit and the other a loose fit. A loose fitting bearing does not necessarily indicate excessive wear.

11.Inspect the axle shaft housing and axle shafts for burrs or other irregularities. Replace any work or damaged parts. A light yellow color on the bearing journal of the axle shaft is normal, and does not require replacement of the axle shaft. Slight pitting and wear is also normal.

12.Lightly coat the wheel bearing rollers with axle lubricant. Install the bearings in the axle housing until the bearing seats firmly against the shoulder.

13.Wipe all lubricant from the oil seal bore, before installing the seal.

14.Inspect the original seals for wear. If necessary, these may be replaced with new seals, which are prepacked with lubricant and do not require soaking.

To install:

15.Install the oil seal.

16.Remove the lockbolt and pinion shaft. Carefully slide the axle shafts into place. Be careful that you do not damage the seal with the splined end of the axle shaft. Engage the splined end of the shaft with the differential side gears.

17.Install the axle shaft C-locks on the inner end of the axle shafts and seat the C-locks in the counterbore of the differential side gears.

18.Rotate the differential pinion gears until the differential pinion shaft can be installed. Install the differential pinion shaft lockbolt. Tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs.

19.Install the brake drum on the axle shaft ******.

20.Install the wheel and tire on the brake drum and tighten the attaching nuts.

 

Bully Bob

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The 9"  doesn't have that diff. cover on the back. (via your pic) And, doesn't use "C" clips.

9" has four bolts holding the axle shafts/brake backing plates on/in the housing tubes.

I would guess this is a stock 8.8 or a custom axle of sorts.

I've seen this B/4 (axle seperation) but not two at a time.

That leads me to believe someone did some work in there (inside the diff.) BUT.., didn't get it right.

It's all fixable & quite inexpensive to do.

 
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johnnyD

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The 9"  doesn't have that diff. cover on the back. (via your pic) And, doesn't use "C" clips.

9" has four bolts holding the axle shafts/brake backing plates on/in the housing tubes.
whoops, my bad i think i got confused with 9 bolt. you're right. I'm gonna tear into it in the morning and i'll let you guys know how it goes

 
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johnnyD

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Haha well I pulled it apart guys. I'm gonna go ahead and call it a loss judging by the amount of metal, gears, and other parts that fell out when I pulled the cover off. Oh well, guess it's time for a new rear end

image.jpg

 

Bully Bob

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What do you mean by "new rear end" ..?

All new gear-set inside your housing (i.e. rebuild) would be less expensive.

Your axle shafts may be OK if not bent.

However, if you've not rebuilt one.., best left to a driveline shop to align the gear-set properly so it doesn't howl.

 
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johnnyD

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Like new rear end as in whole different rear axel. I've never rebuilt one and I have 4:10 gears and the only shop around that'll do it wants between 1,200-1,600 and everyone I know who has had theirs rebuilt there had problems after a few months.

New axel will be easier I know(done those before) and I know where there's a couple for pretty cheap.

Unless it's not too hard to rebuild them. I'm seeing the kits for about $200+ but what do they come with and how hard is it? I'm pretty good with the cars, just never tried that before.

 
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Bully Bob

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Then I agree.., changing the whole rear axle is in fact time consuming but not really hard to do.

Especially if you can land one for a good price.

Safety is job 1....!

Rebuilding that diff. gear-set is not hard at all.  Except where & how the ring & pinion

gears mesh. They have to be right on or as I said they will howl & drive you crazy.!

I've not attempted one either as yet. I have taken my spare apart & re-assembled but

Did not set the gear lash. (my 9" comes out the front all in one piece.., sometimes

refered to as the "CHUNK" )  You can rebuild a 9" on the bench.

8.8 is done on the rack.

 
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johnnyD

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alright alright. I think I'm set on swapping the rear axel for now and then maybe getting a rebuild kit and trying my luck!

thanks for all the help, and ill be sure to let you guys know how it goes!

 

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