Keep the Motorcraft vs. aftermarket carb?

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redinnola

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Hey everyone, newish here. I've got a '75 Baja Bronco that's been in the family since '76. The carb has always been troublesome, not sure when the last true rebuild was. It was my grandfather's, then my father's and has been with me for the past 10 years. Unfortunately, I've not been a position to do much in the way of improvements until recently.

Basically, once I get it started (she's been stubborn at that for a while) and warmed up if I throw it in gear she dies. I know one of the jets is clogged and the stock carb needs a rebuild but I'm curious if its worth the effort. That carb has always been a pain and I'm considering going Holley or Edelbrock. Its mostly stock at this point, orig 302 rebuilt in '98 or so, maybe 20k miles on the rebuild. The only major change was the addition of headers and dual exhaust. 

So the question is to rebuild or replace? 

Thanks!

 

Bully Bob

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Hi Red.., welcome..!!

Those orig. carbs are perfect for the EB.  Clean it up properly & use it.

However, you may have more than one problem. (give up a bit more info if you can)  Auto.., stick shift..?

Vacuum & ignition issues may be involved here.

Give us any & all history/mods so as to pinpoint poss. problem areas.

Use your signature page for this. (see mine below)

 
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redinnola

redinnola

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Thanks Bully Bob, I've updated my signature with some info. Pretty positive I have vacuum  issues, not sure where to start with that. I was told once that the 70s era fords had a lot of unnecessary vacuum systems is that true? The person who told me this was the last mechanic I used who had this Bronco purring like she never had before, he's since moved which is unfortunate. 

Anyway, can you suggest a good source for a carb rebuild kit? I checked Jeff's but they didn't seem to have anything for carbs, which is strange. Guess I'll order a rebuild kit online and go from there. 

 

Bully Bob

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Most quality auto parts stores have the re-build kits.

Sounds like a nice rig you have there. Show some pics when you have time.

Ya.., there's some vac. stuff that the eng. is better off W/O.

However, some states req. all of it to be hooked up in order to smog/register ea. year.

(Don't know where you are)

A side note: Some boat shops are current & good at cleaning carbs & kiting them.

                    If you don't like doing it.

Keep us posted as to your progress...

 
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redinnola

redinnola

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I'm in Metairie, LA right outside of New Orleans. I don't think the vacuum hoses will be an issue here. I may pass by Autozone tomorrow after work and see what they have. As soon as I have her running and cleaned up I'll post some pics. Unfortunately, its not the originally Baja Bronco colors anymore. My Grandfather bought it in '76 and didn't really know what he had, neither did my Dad who repainted it in the mid-90's. It wasn't until a few years ago I found the Baja Bronco page and contacted them that I found out what it was. I sent them current pics, some old ones and the VIN and they confirmed that it is a Baja. All the more reason to get her right again. Thanks again!!

 

genthree

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Red,

I have a 73 and had many of the issues that you are describing.  Let me see if this sounds familiar...  CHOKE, CRANK, CRANK, FIRE, THROTTLE, CHOKE OFF, Dies,  CHOKE ON, CRANK, CRANK, FIRE, REV, REV, REV, IDLE  (three minutes later) put in gear  DIES,  REPEAT!!!!

I have a 302 stock, Holley, 2brl...  I rebuild the carb, cleaned the tanks, installed a fuel filter (I didn't have one) but most importantly.  I spent $99 for a Pertronix solid state ignition.  Got rid of the points and now I just pump the throttle a couple times and it fires up perfectly, still has to warm up before it really wants to go, but SO DO I!!!

 

Bully Bob

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One of the most common carb failures is the accelerator pump. It's accessable from outside the carb.

Also, there's a power valve (if I recall) that can crack & leak.

There's a vac. hose at the modulator on the trannie. It can crack (usually makes the trannie shift hard).

Modulators go bad as well.

A bad timing chain can give fits..., giving carb type symptoms.

    (BTW how many miles on this rig..?)

All things being equal, & set to factory specs.., this rig should start instantly & purr like a kitten.

What Genthree describes is the correct path. Any crud found in the carb/fuel system.., it should all

be cleaned up.

The ignition should already be electronic. there could be issues with the module or the "pick-up"

in the dizzy. These can be tested.

If the cleaned up carb doesn't create smooth operation.., then on to "plan B"

 
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redinnola

redinnola

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Sorry for the delay, need to change my notification preferences....

She has 74k miles, been in the family since my Grandfather bought her in '76. You could say I have a pretty complete history on her. 

I got a rebuild kit but haven't have a chance to do it yet. I might also do what Genthree did with the tanks, fuel line and if the carb cleanup doesn't work. Been trying to wait to do that because I want to put in larger tanks when I do that. 

Its funny you mention the vac hose on the tranny Bully, I posted on here a few years ago under another account with that problem and you helped me fix it. Not sure why I couldn't access that account must have been removed do to inactivity. Regardless, that's not an issue anymore. 

Timing could also be part of the issue but I need to get her running before I can do that. Will also check the accelerator pump, and power valve. Thanks!

 
 

Bully Bob

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Good plan ya have there..,

Ya.., with several rigs I obtained with really stinky tank smell & rotten fuel line hoses and/or disconnected

lines..., I cleaned/flushed the lines & flushed the tanks.

On some, I just put a see-thru filter at the tank & B/4 the carb to view what coming up the line.

Might want to put one in front of that "clean" carb. (the one at the tank protects the fuel pump

check valves.)

You can test the timing chain by turning the crank bolt back-n-forth, while watching the dizzy rotor.

It should move at the same time, or nearly so.

Keep us posted..!! B)

 

genthree

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Totally agree with Bully on the clear fuel filter in front of the Carb.  Even after I cleaned everything I still had to replace mine a couple weeks after I "cleaned" everything out....

 
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redinnola

redinnola

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That's a great idea. I'll have put a filter in. After rebuilding the carb its better to be safe than sorry. 

 

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