Axle R&R

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Grizz

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I previously posted a topic on U-joints. 

I felt that my "shimmy" at high speeds came from an U-joint problem.  i repaired my rear driveline found a ceased ujoint so i figured problem would be fixed.  The Bronco is smoother no ujoint clunk but  I was wrong.  Instead of getting the shimmy at 40 now i get it at 55 mph.  i moved my wheels around to elinminate a bent rim.  In doing the rotation of the tires i inspected my rear brakes to find i have a blown out axle seal. 

That lead me to believe i have a bent axle, which is why after having my driveline reparied and balanced that i still get the shimmy.

I am wondering would a complete axle swap from a parted out donor truck be the way to go or should i just do a remove and replace.? 

I have no experience in axles.

 

Bully Bob

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1st.., the "shimmy" did it just "rear its ugly head" --- or has it done it since you got the vehicle..?

Axle seals can go at any time. This doesn't mean a bent axle.

One test is to remove the rear dr. shaft & do a short run/test with just the front drive.

If shimmy is gone.., the issue is in the rear pumpkin.., or maybe the rear of the T-case.

But first, with the dr. shaft off at the rear axle, see if you can wiggle the yoke where it attaches.

And/or if the large nut is loose inside the yoke.  This would be my 1st. guess as to the cause

of the shimmy. That being lack of proper torque of a bad bearing at that point.

The axle seal is a 1 banana job.

 
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Grizz

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When the drivline was out i was driving it with the front axle.  and yes the shimmy was gone.  i didnt check the ****** bolt that can be done.  the yoke didnt have any movment to it.  I had tried moving it to see what the freeplay was like when i was under there.  I will check the torque on the ****** bolt just to be sure. 

yes the shimmy has been there since i got the truck over two years ago.  it got progressivly worse thats why i went for the ujoints.

 

Bully Bob

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If there's no wiggle at the ******.., chances are the "nut" is torqued OK. 

It's a "lock nut" designed not to move once torqued.

Usually if it comes loose or is removed.., it should be replaced.

(It's pretty hi-torque..., 140/150+- psi comes to mind but check me on that)

Check the same on the T-case ****** however.., I'm not sure what the

tolerances (if any) are as to up-n-down play there.

BTW.., any noise related..?   Could be an issue inside the pumpkin showing up under load.

That's about it as to suggestions I have.., good luck,

B

 
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Grizz

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Both flanges had no movement in them Tcase and Pumpkin.

No noise either.

The gear oil build up in the brake drum was high, but like you said Bob it could be the seal.  High as i mean it was a big gloop of it where I used a couple rags and cleaner to get the area clean again.  Brake dust and oil bad combo.

I still feel like the axle is the issue.

 

Bully Bob

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You have to pull the axle to change the seal & insp. the bearing anyway. You can then check the axle. 

However, one other thought, there's three u-joints. If one was bad..., the others are suspicious..,

along with the cardian joint itself.

 
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Grizz

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Replaced all three and the CV joint.  No sense in having to do a job again if its not done right the first time.  thats my motto at least.

I am finding in this truck that after 190k miles alot of the drive gear and support(bearings, seals ) are in need of replacment.  the u joints i pulled where the factory installed.  i would not be suprised with the axle bearing and such that this would be the case.

 
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Grizz

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Bully B,

So i removed the drivline again to do a wiggle check.  Very slight movment maybe .0002"-.0005".  To me that isnt to much.  i did notice however that the seal for the ****** yoke must be worn out cause there is grease bult up around there as well.  when i did the driveline intially i had cleaned all matting serfices.  with the DL in place i can see where i didnt clean and it is full of grease. 

This is making me think that i may need an overhaul of the pumkin as well as the axles. 

Would this be something a hobby mechanic can takle or should i have a shop do it.  it is my everyday car.

 

Bully Bob

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The seal can, at times, carve a grove in the neck of the yoke.  If it's real bad.., there's a sleve that goes on there. 

And, some times a new seal is all you need.

The large ****** nut tighens against crush sleeves. (check me on this)  There shouldn't be any play as I recall. 

Don't be in a hurry on the axles (rarely go bad) or the gear-set in the pumpkin.

The gear-set req. some tuning. It has to be "correct" or it could howl.

Another thought comes to mind.., did you check the "slip-joint" on the dr. shaft for slop/wobble..?

I don't want to get in over my head here..,  I've disassembled/inspected some gear-sets out of the pumpkin

but never re-assembled with the gear contact/marking grease. There's a bit of an art to this.

With no vibration with the dr. shaft off..,  I don't think it's (vibration) in the rear axle.

I've been expecting some board members to chime-in with some additional help/info.

It may happen yet.

 
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Grizz

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So this weekend I am going to start over and log what is going on and what single corrective actions do i need to take to make a correct repair.  There seems to be to much hypthetical in the air.  it will help my support staff (people of this forum) to give thier opinion and thoughts on the matter.

I will be in touch.

 

numlaar

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Bully B,

So i removed the drivline again to do a wiggle check.  Very slight movment maybe .0002"-.0005".  To me that isnt to much.  i did notice however that the seal for the ****** yoke must be worn out cause there is grease bult up around there as well.  when i did the driveline intially i had cleaned all matting serfices.  with the DL in place i can see where i didnt clean and it is full of grease. 

This is making me think that i may need an overhaul of the pumkin as well as the axles. 

Would this be something a hobby mechanic can takle or should i have a shop do it.  it is my everyday car.
I just had mine completely overhauled... I went ahead and had a specific "axle" shop do the work that specializes in 4x4's... the reason I went this route is because the 8.8 in a bronco is not a true drive for both wheels... its a posi yes, but it uses a set of clutches that engage the non drive wheel. This is because without these clutches, when you go around turns one wheel spins faster than the other... if there were no clutches, you would get "tire hop" when turning. I was going to have my axles welded to make a true drive, but was advised against it for this reason. They went ahead and did however, pack the clutches as tight as they could get them, so I would get a real good bite with both rear wheels... Even as a master mechanic, I never built enough rear-ends to do this on my own. I would suggest having it down by the pro's in this case. When its apart, they can also put the axles on a gauge and see if they are bent or out of round at all... I had one where the seal had worn it enough to warrant replacement, or it would leak. IMO it was worth the money... total cost for this was about 650.00, and it was done right, and is like new again.. this was on a rear diff with 235k miles on it. Hope that helps.

 

Bully Bob

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"So this weekend I am going to start over and log what is going on and what single corrective actions do i need to take to make a correct repair.  There seems to be to much hypthetical in the air.  it will help my support staff (people of this forum) to give thier opinion and thoughts on the matter."
 

YES.., this is the correct way to get accurate help.

Including ALL info. saves all the questions  & guessing in order to find a solution to a problem.

We depend on the posters to give up info. so as to get to this end.

However, this help is "free" and..,  keep in mind we're working over a keyboard...., meaning no "hands-on"

and no "eyeballs-on" ...!   Going to a "Shop" ---- they have these tools (eyes/hands) & can hit the

target real quick but as stated above.., you'll need your wallet out....

 
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miesk5

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yo GRIZZ,

FYI,

96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm

Same as 95 and most earlier years exc. for OBD II, 4WABS (93-96); ABS (87-92); Air Bag (94-96); 3 ***** Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96) and a few other items

(still need time to go through all pages to confirm other differences)

Go through the various sections such as

Section 05-00: Axle and Driveshaft, Service

Traction-Lok® Differential

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

Component Tests

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj50009.htm#extract_787

 

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