1994 Bronco Won't Start in Park

I recently replaced the MLPS/NSS and now it won't start in park, I can shift to neutral and start it just fine. I also busted the auto-lever shift cable in the process of going back to readjust the linkage (have a new one on the way), not sure if that would really cause the problem but it'll be fixed as son as it gets here. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

yo MAC,

WELCOME!

Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) pic w/Alignment Marks (from a Mercury, but similar)

Source: by Steve (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.org/registry/vehicles/showmedia.php?id=81709

Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) Connector Re-Pining; "...comes with a matching vehicle harness connector. The problem is that you have to remove the pins and their wires from the old vehicle harness connector. What ever you do don't pull all the pins out at the same time because you will never figure out were they go. Easiest thing to do is remove one pin at a time and re-install it into the new connector..."

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Vehicle Can't be Shifted Out of PARK, Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 on 94-95 Bronco & Trucks @ http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/470456_1

See P

Check to see if your brake lights are working

Check brake light bulbs/socket

passenger side wiring; pull assy and ck if wires are chaffing @ 1/4 panel. mine were too tight and almost cut thru insulation; passenger side wiring; pull assy and ck if wires are chaffing @ 1/4 panel. mine were too tight and almost cut thru insulation

also ck wiring @ brake pedal

MLPS Wiring Diagram in a 94; same as in Ford EVTM

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=4903

Well, I installed the new shift-lever cable this weekend and it didn't fix the issue (however, it does shift much smoother through all the positions). I checked the plug on the MLPS against the pictures I took before removing the old switch, all of the pins are in the correct spots, there are no pinched or chaffed wires, and my brake lights work. Everything on the vehicle works fine it just won't start in park. Could the switch itself be bad and causing the issue?

yo Mac,

Check all cab Fuses

Could be a short as cited in Vehicle Can't be Shifted Out of PARK, Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 on 94-95 Bronco & Trucks

See P

Vehicle Can't be Shifted Out of PARK, Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 on 94-95 Bronco & Trucks @ http://www.supermoto.../media/470456_1

See P

Can't recall if your 94 has a Brake Shift Interlock System

All vehicles are equipped with a brake shift interlock system. The brake shift interlock system prevents the shifting from PARK (the key is in run) unless the service brake is depressed. The brake shift interlock system consists of a brake shift lock actuator mounted at the base of the steering column. If the key is in run, the brake shift lock actuator continually runs unless the brake is depressed.

Removal & Install @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj75008.htm

Section 07-05: Transmission, Automatic, External Controls

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

Symptom Charts

Use the symptom chart as an aid in determining possible conditions, sources and necessary service actions for shift control linkage.

Cannot Shift from Park with Brake Depressed

•No voltage signal from brake circuit.

•CHECK voltage at wire terminal. If no voltage when brake is depressed, REPAIR circuit.

•Large voltage difference between brake/ignition circuit.

•MEASURE the voltage difference between ignition input and brake input — not to exceed 2 volts. REPAIR circuit.

•Broken/seized solenoid.

•INSPECT latch assembly and plunger. LUBRICATE or REPLACE.

•Solenoid electrically worn or damaged.

•REPLACE solenoid.

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj75008.htm

Electrical Schematic

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/d12572c.gif

yo Mac,

I must apologize to you for mis-reading the main issue. I kept thinking of can't shift in park because of some reason.

Look @ MLPS/NSS again.

Section 07-14A: Transmission Range (TR) Sensor

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Transmission Range (TR) Sensor

Transmission Range (TR) Sensor (MLPS) Alignment Tool T92P-70010-AH

Removal

1.Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).

2.Raise and support the vehicle.

3.Remove the shift cable and bracket (7E395)from themanual control lever (7A256).

4.Place the manual control lever in neutral.

5.Disconnect electrical harness from TR sensor.

6.Remove two retaining bolts.

7.Remove transmission range (TR) sensor.

Installation

1.Ensure manual control lever is in the NEUTRAL position.

2.Install TR sensor and loosely install two retaining bolts.

3.Align TR sensor slots using Transmission Range (TR) Sensor (MLPS) Alignment Tool T92P-70010-AH.

4.Tighten retaining bolts to 6-8 Nm (55-75 lb-in) for E4OD and to 7-10 Nm (62-89 lb-in) for 4R70W and remove tool.

5.Connect electrical harness to TR sensor.

6.Install nut retaining manual control lever to TR sensor. Tighten to 27-39 Nm (20-29 lb-ft) for E4OD and to 30-35 Nm (22-26 lb-ft) for 4R70W.

7.Install theshift cable and bracket on themanual control lever.

8.Lower the vehicle.

9.Connect battery ground cable.

10.Check for proper operation with parking brake engaged. The engine should start only in park or neutral.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/stj7ea06.htm

Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) Adjustment Info; "...back-probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V..."

Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve)

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=4903