U-Joint Info

i am in desperate need of replacing my u-joints on my rear driveline. When i look at parts stores for the parts i need, the description is vague on the location. I have the carriage set up on my driveline so i need a total of three u-joints. From the measurements that i have taken all three are the same. Why would i then need to order the part for: transfer case to carriage and then carriage to driveline. This seems confusing and unnecessary.



any ideas or confromation of this would be nice.

Part numbers would be nice cause those can be cross refrenced.

thanks

If memory serves.., there is a slight difference in the CV joints at the T-case.

I can look it up or you can contact;

www.wildhorses4x4.com  in Stockton near you.

www.tomsbroncoparts.com  in Oregon.

Either can give you the lowdown..., & they have the (correct)  joints.

Wild Horses does more with FS Broncos.

HTH

B

yo Grizz,

As BOB Advised!

btw, later years Bronco transfer case end has a ****** while earlier year Broncos (have to find year change later) and all f150s have a slip yoke

96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm

Same as 95 and most earlier years exc. for OBD II, 4WABS (93-96) ABS 87-92), Air Bag (94-96) and a few other items

Section 05-00:

Axle and Driveshaft, Service

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/leftside=stjs500l.htm&rightside=stjs500r.htm

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/images/e7158b.gif

Rear Driveshaft and Coupling Shaft, Bronco

BEFORE REMOVING DRIVE SHAFT make reference marks on the driveshaft, U JOINTS and REAR DIFF so the whole thing can be oriented and re-assembled the same way it came out

and, Slip Shaft Location; ".. a Bronco driveshaft normally is two pieces that slide together. The slip shaft is normally covered by a rubber boot in the middle..."

Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)

Clunk, Driveshaft in a 96; "...could be a few things.. U-joints going out on the driveshaft, slip shaft needs greasing or 3rd member is warn and loose. get under and see if there is any side to side movement with the ujoints on the shaft, there shouldnt be any side movement at all; than grease your slip-joint (search) and go from there...& by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong); Instead of sliding into the t-case like a car driveshaft would into a trans, a Bronco driveshaft normally is two pieces that slide together. The slipshaft is normally covered by a rubber boot in the middle like in the pic below; When you check the u-joints as Spiked described, park it on a flat spot, block the wheels & put it in neutral. That way the driveshaft will be free to move if the u-joints are bad..."

Source: by spikedzombies (O' Black Betty) & by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)

miesk5 note, slip yoke is often referred to as the Slip Shaft Spline



Slip Shaft Spline Lubrication pic in a 95; "...If your bronco suffers from the notorious thunk this is a good time to **** your shaft.."

Source: by TRUCKY18 (Bco)

Driveline Clunk as Vehicle Starts to Move Following a Brake Stop (Two-Piece Driveshaft); "...Loose rear spring U-bolts. TIGHTEN U-bolts to specification. Worn or galled output driveshaft and coupling shaft splines. REMOVE the driveshaft from the vehicle. CLEAN the male splines and INSPECT for worn or galled splines. REPLACE if necessary. Worn or galled driveshaft slip yoke splines. CLEAN and INSPECT the female splines of the driveshaft slip yoke for worn or galled condition. REPLACE if necessary. Damaged driveshaft slip yoke seal. REPLACE seal. Insufficient lubrication in driveshaft slip yoke. Using a long handle (stencil type) brush, APPLY grease evenly on all the splines of the driveshaft slip yoke. REINSTALL driveshaft and using a hand grease gun, LUBRICATE the driveshaft slip yoke through the grease fitting. Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B. NOTE: Install the driveshaft slip yoke, making sure that the coupling shaft and driveshaft are in phase..."; Miesk5 Note, Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C ESA-M1C75-B is available as Castrol MP Multi-Purpose Chassis Grease is a NLGI #2 lithium based, water resistant grease or ConocoPhillips Moly Poly Grease NLGI No. 2

From Ford, 96 Bronco Workshop Manual; same for your year

The Bronco rear driveshaft is of the double Cardan type which incorporates two universal joints, a driveshaft centering socket yoke (4782), and a driveshaft center yoke (4784) at the transfer case end of each shaft. A single universal joint is used at the axle end of the driveshaft.

Rear Driveshaft and Coupling Shaft, Bronco

get under and see if there is any side to side movement with the ujoints on the shaft, there shouldnt be any side movement at all;

than grease your slip-joint and go from there

by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong); "...When you check the u-joints as Spiked described, park it on a flat spot, block the wheels & put it in neutral. That way the driveshaft will be free to move if the u-joints are bad..."

Source: by spikedzombies (O' Black Betty) & by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)

To grease slip yoke; cut the boot retaining ring clips

slide the boot over the shaft. grease splines & pull boot back over & use zip ties to hold boot in-place.

This is how FORD describes it;

cut the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamps (4K227) with sidecutters. Remove and discard the clamps

Separate the driveshaft slip yoke (4841) from the splined stub shaft on the driveshaft.

Remove the slip yoke boot. Inspect the slip yoke boot for rips or holes and replace if required.

If, during inspection, the driveshaft and coupling shaft boot is found to be cracked or split, the grease should be checked for contamination. Check the lubricant by rubbing between two fingers. Any gritty feeling indicates a contaminated driveshaft slip yoke and stub shaft. If driveshaft (4602) is operating satisfactorily and the grease does not appear to be contaminated, add grease as described in the assembly portion of this procedure and replace the slip yoke boot. If the grease appears contaminated, disassemble the driveshaft, clean and inspect the stub shaft and driveshaft slip yoke for wear. If splines are excessively worn, replace driveshaft.

If required, remove and replace the U-joints.

Assembly

Install the slip yoke boot with the small diameter side facing the splined stub shaft on the stub shaft. Push the slip yoke boot as far as it will travel on the stub shaft.

Install a small driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp and crimp the clamp using Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.

Compress the slip yoke boot and coat the stub shaft splines with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

Fill the slip yoke boot with approximately 10 grams of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

Slide the large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp onto the barrel of the driveshaft slip yoke.

Align the blind splines on the splined stub shaft and in the driveshaft slip yoke. Push the driveshaft slip yoke onto the stub shaft.

Remove all excess grease from the slip yoke boot and driveshaft slip yoke surfaces. Position the slip yoke boot over the driveshaft slip yoke boot groove.

Move the driveshaft slip yoke in or out in order to obtain the distance of 10 inches between stud shaft weld to the centerline of the driveshaft slip yoke U-joint

Before installing the new large slip yoke boot clamp, make sure that any air pressure which may have built up in the slip yoke boot is relieved. Carefully insert a screwdriver between the slip yoke boot and the driveshaft slip yoke and allow the trapped air to escape ("burp") from the slip yoke boot. THE AIR MUST BE RELEASED ONLY AFTER THE DRIVESHAFT IS SET AT THE SPECIFIED LENGTH

Position the new large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp over the slip yoke boot and groove in the driveshaft slip yoke. Crimp the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp with Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A

http://www.knez.org/vehicles/images/bronco/start%20and%20stop%20clunk%20fix/medium/100_3110.JPG

4 bolts hold the drive shaft ****** to the transfer case (2 visible in far left of this photo

http://www.knez.org/vehicles/images/bronco/start%20and%20stop%20clunk%20fix/medium/100_3111.JPG

remove the clamps from the rubber slip joint boot (they are already off in this photo

http://www.knez.org/vehicles/images/bronco/start%20and%20stop%20clunk%20fix/medium/100_3117.JPG

Pull the drive shaft out so that you can see the geared end. Clean and **** the geared end of the drive shaft and the receiving end still attached to the rear differential

Very good advice thanks. 

On the same subject how would one know if the CV is going out.  Would there be lateral movement as well or just visable worn.

yo Grizz,

see http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj50007.htm

U-Joint Inspection

Prior to checking driveline angularity, inspect the universal joints for proper operation.

Place the vehicle on a frame hoist and rotate the driveshaft (4602) by hand. Check for rough operation or seized universal joints. If the universal joint shows signs of seizure, excessive wear or improper seating, scribe alignment marks on the driveshaft and rear axle companion ******. Remove the driveshaft and remove and replace the universal joint. Install the driveshaft in the marked original position.

=========

Troubleshooting, Driveshaft; "...chock the wheels, put it in neutral, and grab the driveshaft and twist it back and forth. examine the u-joint area for any excessive movement..." Miesk5 note; Spicer says, "...To cancel an angle vibration, the universal joint operating angles need to be EQUAL within 1 degree at each end of a driveshaft..."

====

Vibrations, General; Improperly phased or twisted propshafts; "...A twisted or improperly manufactured propshaft can have U-joints which are out of phase. This causes improper U-joint acceleration and deceleration cancellation to take place. The result is a second order propshaft speed related vibration. To check U-joint phasing, perform the following steps.." read more & scroll through the sub-topics

Source: by vibratesoftware

http://web.archive.org/web/20101218181035/http://vibratesoftware.com/html_help/html/Diagnosis/Propshaft/second_order_propshaft.htm#3. Improperly phased or twisted propshafts.

yo, Forgot to incl this;

bad CV joint will generally exhibit a clicking or grinding noise as the bearings hammer together and the CV joint bounces around inside its housing. Along with that bouncing, the CV joint will exhibit a telltale vibration at various speeds and under various conditions. A clunking while engaging drive with an automatic transmission, a constant knock at low speed, and a vibration that increases with speed could indicate either a bad inner or outer CV joint. A humming or growling may indicate only a lack of grease in the inner or outer joint, but that will usually precede joint failure.

Inner vs. Outer Joint

You can think of the inner CV joint as the "power" joint, and the outer CV joint as the "turning" joint. Generally speaking, clunking, shuddering and vibration under acceleration or deceleration indicate a bad inner CV joint. Cyclic vibration -- vibration that regularly fades in and out under cruise -- may indicate the same. Outer CV joint failures will manifest as clicking and popping while turning -- you might even feel it in the wheel or floorboard as the joint constantly binds up and releases. Wheel bearings will often do the same, but often screech or growl while doing it.

The Hand Test

The simplest way to determine the condition of your CV joint is to grab the axle shaft, and try to twist it and shake it back and forth. A CV joint in good condition has very tight tolerances; you should percieve little to no movement while attempting to twist or shake the shaft. You might hear a barely audible click, but nothing more. The large bearing clearances in a worn or broken CV joint will allow it to flop around in the housing; the axle may twist if both the inner and outer joints are bad, or it may move by 1/8 of an inch or more. If you are not certain if the movement is within tolerance, check the CV axle on the other side as a frame of reference.

http://autoresource.internetautoguide.com/cv-joint-bad-1356.html

================

Causes, Analysis, and remedies for Driveshaft failure

Causes and remedies of driveshaft vibration include:

•Improper universal joint operating angles / improper driveshaft geometry ◦Measure and set proper geometry (see Part 2)

•Too extreme universal joint operating angles ◦Switch to higher angle capable u-joint series or CV joint

◦Reduce operating angles (usual. by reducing suspension height)

•Poor balance of driveshaft assembly ◦Have driveshaft professionally balanced

•Driveshaft balance weights damaged or missing ◦Have driveshaft professionally balanced

•Worn-out / improperly lubricated U-joints ◦Inspect, lubricate, replace u-joints as required

•Worn tail-cone / slip yoke or slip member ◦Inspect and replace worn components as required

•Bent, dented, fractured tubing ◦Inspect and repair/replace as required

Driveshaft Failure analysis Guide

read more @ http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index4.html

DOUBLE CARDAN CONSTANT

VELOCITY JOINT ASSEMBLIES

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J321-CV.PDF

that clears it up.

Thanks again for the help.