About to tackle fuel pump on 1990 Bronco EB 5L

I have a 1990 EB Bronco w/ 5.0L V8 w/ 300-400k+ miles and i recently stalled it out and cannot get it started. It will turnover but nit ignite. The characteristic 'whine' that the fuel pump usually makes is not present now. I have changed out the fuel relay and no change. So, i was researching the ways to get to the fuel pump. The 2 fields of thought are: drop tank vs cut mod access hole. I have never replaced the fuel pump before and it is likeky due. Also the fuel gauge has not worked in ~5 years.....so any thoughts on approaching this???

yo flathor,

WELCOME!

Pump Test & Diagram at the Diagnostic Link Connector in 84-95; "...Connect FP Relay to any ground to force the fuel pump(s) on when the key is in RUN..." MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PIP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PIP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay or the integrated relay control module. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}.

Source: by Steve http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/245234

How to Test the Ford Fuel Pump Relay -No Start Troubleshooting (Green Relay)

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/fuel-pump-relay-tests-1

....

Check these wiring diagrams to confirm colors in article;

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/Results?Year=1990&Make=54&Model=633&Engine=5.0&WdSystem=1&WdSubsystem=101

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Pump & Level Sender Installation in a 90 (pics are gone)

Source: by rightofway

"...the fuel pump connector on the outside of my tank burned and melted and gave me an intermittent problem that i had to fix in various parking lots, driveways and drive throughs

i hear a lot of people bitch and moan about dropping the tank and they'd rather cut a hole in the floor. for me i like my floor not having holes in it and i never think dropping a tank on a truck is that big of a deal

FWIW my tank had 16 gallons in it and i did everything myself

tools i used

trolley jack (transmission jack would have been preferable)

block of wood

screwdriver

8mm socket

1/4" socket

1/4" ratchet

3/8" ratchet

socket and wrench for skidplate bolts (dunno what size yours are, replaced mine a few weeks ago)

BFH (non sparking type preferable, but i ain't got one)

3/8"x6" extension (shoulda used brass punch)

soldering gun and solder

shrink wrap and heat gun

strippers

(think that's all)

parts i used (i'll get part numbers in a few)

Fuel delivery module (expensive fugger)

pigtail (slightly less expensive fugger)

fuel line clips (came with the FDM)

to start grab your jack and a block of wood

place block of wood on jack and put the jack under the tank, jack it up and put some pressure on the bottom of the tank (not a lot, just some to hold it up)

go 'head and loosen the fuel fill hose, i used an 8mm, but 5/16 would work too as would a screwdriver. you can see the fill neck if you look through the wheel well, but i found it easiest to lay under it and use my right arm to loosen it

then i went ahead and pulled the outer and inner hoses away from the tank and shoved a brake cleaner cap on it (think i got that idea from steve83)

crawl up under the truck and get comfy here, i'm 5'10" and fat but i can actually sit up in this spot

locate the skidplate bolts on the front of the crossmember, here's the two on the left

here's the two on the right

take them out, break at least one (this one was a month old but i forgot to wipe the dirt off of it) and spew obscenities

now with those out reach up there to the top of the fuel lines and feel for the retaining clips and use a screwdriver to pop them out (both mine broke but no biggy) and pull the lines off the tubes.

i was able to unplug the plug because i've had a lot of practice in the last month

pull the emissions line off the hard line on the right

crawl out go to the back and take the 4 rear skidplate bolts out and lower it down.

my tank rocked back so if you didn't get it unplugged or unhooked now is your chance

lowered it down the rest of the way and dragged it out

dragged it off of the skidplate and onto my purpose built custom made super high tech fuel tank manipulator (harbor freight furniture dolly)

i looped the vent hoses onto the feed and return lines so i could hose it off and keep water out

lotsa room there now

now for the new pigtail

solder it on (don't forget to put the shrink wrap on FIRST)

also make sure you're soldering it to the right wire (this one was WRONG) my colors don't match what ford says and i got confused using the old repair pigtail i made as a guide. i tried to desolder it but it wasn't working out

shout obscenities then cut out the joint

it was a beautiful clean and tight joint too

put first layer of shrink wrap and shrink

repeat with other three wires

then shrink second layer (i ended up wrapping the ends in electrical tape because i chose too big of a second layer) can you tell i don't want water in there

Now onto the tank

get your non sparking brass chisel and hammer:

i used the extension because i don't have any brass chisels and already replaced the lock ring last month because someone knocked the ears off when they replaced the tank i assume they were using a screwdriver or sharp chisel

tap it around, doesn't take much force

lock ring off (see the burned terminal)

wiggle the monster out being careful for the sender arm and pump sock

with it out of the way inspect your tank for sludge, crud, rust, water, old parts etc. (i have 5 gallons of nasty contaminated gas from the last time i did this)

mine looked good

i put a piece of foil over the hole and dropped the lock ring back in place to keep the gas in and junk out while i worked on the pump

bust out a 1/4" socket and take off that sending unit, i used a gentle touch with a pair of pliers to unplug it

swapped out the sender to the new expensive fugger

next i oiled the O-ring

then i set it in place. take note of the notches in the hole, there are tabs on the botton of the plate that fit those notches

then i wiggled the new one in (take one last look at your $234)

sittin straight sittin flat

drop on the lock ring

lock the lock ring

putting it in is the exact reverse of taking it out

be sure not to break this

use new retaining clips for the fuel lines..."

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Installation Lessons Learned

Source: by digitalbill (Bill Crozier)

Please keep in mind that this was all done to a 1992 Bronco

1: If you decide to put in a cheap fuel pump, you are probably going to have to replace it within a year. Either spend the extra money on a really good one or, cut an access door in the bed.

2: Get the right tools for the job. Fuel line removal tools are very cheap and will save you hours of aggravation

3: If you decide to cut an access door, see if you can borrow a 110V angle grinder or an air operated one (if you have access).

I used my 18V ryobi and while it worked fine with the cutoff wheel, I have three batteries and, starting at full charge on all three, they all had to go back on the charger twice before I was finished cutting.

4: Speaking of cutting.. .I got the steps (measurements and stuff) from Steve83 site on SuperMotors site. It looked like he used a sawsall but he also has a body lift. I have the stock lift so I was scared to go too deep. I was right. the vent line is about 1 inch (if that) from the bottom of the bed. I didn't hit it but, that would have sucked.

5: Safety first. I kept a garden hose stuffed up on the top of the tank with it on "mist" to keep everything wet. I don't know if it helped or not but, no fires and there were LOTS of sparks. Eye protection goes without saying...

6: Taking the retaining ring off is easy.

Putting it back on? Not so much. I bent the "starter" tabs at just a little bit of a downward angle with needle nose plyers and it made putting it back on quite easy.

7: I do not have a patch panel yet so, I cut three sides of the access panel and then just "scored" the 4th side (drivers side) so I could open it up like a door. It is currently closed and duct tape in on the edges until I can get a proper cover for it.

8: Also, the edges are sharp. let me clairify.

YOU WILL GET CUT!!!!!!! Either wear gloves or file down the edges BEFORE screwing with the pump itself.

digitalbill is offline

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Fuel Line Disconnection in 87-96; "...The trick is getting it lined up and freed so the Scissors Type tool can pop the retainers free. Look at the retaining tabs on the inside of the connection, and then look at your disconnect tool. I noticed that sometimes you have to line it up a certain way, and it'll pop the first time you slide the tool in.."

Source: by Bronco4Life

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Level Sender, In-Tank Sock filter, etc. Info & pics in a 90 393W

Source: by BlueBeast (The Beast, JP N) at http://www.superford.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=308&s=25404

bbl

Miesk5: thank u for the wealth of information! Hopefully with all this info the job should be a snap /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

yo,

YW!

I'll add more info in this 2nd reply; so click Refresh Browswer to see updates;

Cut-out Panel Fabrication for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement

there are a few Links there incl one good one by our pal Seabronc

http://broncozone.com/topic/12329-gas-sender-unit-access-panel/

needed parts at our SPONSOR, JEFF's Bronco Graveyard;

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/FUEL-SYSTEMS-BRONCO/departments/549/

Patch Panel, 48in. x 16in. for 80-96 Bronco & F Series; $35.00 as of 21 JAN 2015

Source: by Jeff's Bronco Graveyard http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Rear-Bed-Patch-Panel-48-x-16/productinfo/34094/

or cut one out from a yard Queen Bronco or F series of same shape.