yo T,
WELCOME!!
Please confirm it is an 86 Bronco.
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or I or another ADMIN member can do it for you if you give us that info in your nexr entry here.
Here is some info:
Gas tank;
Inspect connectors for corrosion, wiring to conns, etc. as well as fuel line/hose condition; see Jeffs site;
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Fuel-Lines/products/1834/
Inspect the V REST Vapor Valve (AKA breather/check valve in top center of tank or Roll-Over ).
See later year Depictions & Location Diagrams in 5.0, 5.8, 7.5, & 4.9; "...All fuel tank vapor valves make use of a small orifice that tends to allow only vapor and not fuel to pass into the line running forward to the vapor storage canister. This assembly mounts directly to the fuel tank using a rubber seal. Fuel vapors trapped in the sealed fuel tank are vented through the orificed vapor valve assembly in the top of the tank. The vapors leave the valve assembly through a single vapor line and continue to the carbon canister for storage, until they are purged to the engine. The vapor valve assembly mounted on the top of the fuel tank is used to control the flow of fuel vapor entering the fuel tank vapor delivery line which conducts vapor forward to the canister in normal circumstances. If due to extreme conditions, excessive pressure is generated inside the tank, the purge port opens up, allowing fuel vapor to escape to the atmosphere, and stabilizes pressure inside the tank. The valve assembly has a head valve which prevents the fuel tank from overfilling during refueling operation. The valve assembly also has a spring supported float assembly, which prevents liquid fuel from entering the vapor delivery line during severe handling, steep grades or in the event of vehicle rollover. The fuel fill cap is sealed and includes a built-in pressure-vacuum relief valve. Fuel system vacuum relief is provided after 3.5 kPa (0.50 psi) and pressure relief after 11.0 kPa (1.6 psi). Under normal operating conditions, the fill cap operates as a check valve, allowing air to enter the tank as fuel is used, while preventing vapors from escaping the tank through the cap..."
Source: by Steve
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/283481
Vent & Fill Tube pics in pre 87 & 87 & up; "...Early trucks use a small corrugated plastic vent tube tucked into the top of the steel filler neck , but it often kinks & blocks fuel from entering the tank easily. Later trucks use a heavy plastic filler hose inside the steel vent neck, which allows MUCH easier filling.The necks are interchangeable, so it's a good upgrade for an old truck, especially if filling is becoming a problem. It also allows the use of a more modern gas cap..."
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/285175
Source: by Steve
Need new Sending Unit Lock Ring or Seal, or V Rest, aka breather valve? See our sponsor, Jeff's or lcal parts store;
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Fuel-Tanks/products/95/
Tank Filler Hose 80-96 Bronco
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Rear-Tank-Filler-Hose-80-96-Bronco/productinfo/30218/
Installation Lessons Learned
Source: by digitalbill (Bill Crozier)
Please keep in mind that this was all done to a 1992 Bronco
1: If you decide to put in a cheap fuel pump, you are probably going to have to replace it within a year. Either spend the extra money on a really good one or, cut an access door in the bed.
2: Get the right tools for the job. Fuel line removal tools are very cheap and will save you hours of aggravation
3: If you decide to cut an access door in cargo area for future pump/sender wotk, see if you can borrow a 110V angle grinder or an air operated one (if you have access).
I used my 18V ryobi and while it worked fine with the cutoff wheel, I have three batteries and, starting at full charge on all three, they all had to go back on the charger twice before I was finished cutting.
4: Speaking of cutting.. .I got the steps (measurements and stuff) from Steve site on SuperMotors site. It looked like he used a sawsall but he also has a body lift. I have the stock lift so I was scared to go too deep. I was right. the vent line is about 1 inch (if that) from the bottom of the bed. I didn't hit it but, that would have sucked.
Miesk5 Note Use Seabronco's info if needed;
http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12329
Patch Panel, 48in. x 16in. for 80-96 Bronco & F Series; $35.00 as of June 2011
Source: by Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/searchprods.asp
5: Safety first. I kept a garden hose stuffed up on the top of the tank with it on "mist" to keep everything wet. I don't know if it helped or not but, no fires and there were LOTS of sparks. Eye protection goes without saying...
6: Taking the retaining ring off is easy.
Putting it back on? Not so much. I bent the "starter" tabs at just a little bit of a downward angle with needle nose plyers and it made putting it back on quite easy.
7: I do not have a patch panel yet so, I cut three sides of the access panel and then just "scored" the 4th side (drivers side) so I could open it up like a door. It is currently closed and duct tape in on the edges until I can get a proper cover for it.
8: Also, Steve mentioned that the edges are sharp. let me clairify.
YOU WILL GET CUT!!!!!!! Either wear gloves or file down the edges BEFORE screwing with the pump itself.
=
DRIVESHAFT
Rebuild in an 84
Source: by justshootme84 (RIP FRIEND!) at
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/1133/30189
Parts Break-Out Diagram
Source: by Ford via Steve
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/284976
To check u-joints while the d'shaft is installed, set the e-brake, shift to N, and see how far you can rotate the t-case output back & forth WITHOUT moving the rear axle yoke/companion ******. Also see how far up & down you can push the d'shaft.
Common Causes of Vibrations
Source: by Dana Spicer
http://web.archive.org/web/20120105131718/http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF
Will get back to you on other topics if you have time to add any concerns about installation of any of the other components.
