89 351W Problems

Ok, first, I know it's not a bronco, but it's a ford truck none the less. I am having problems. First off, the clutch fan snapped and busted the rad. Second, the truck was backfiring like **** (no muffler or cat here, just the dual pipe just before where the cat was) third, I want to bypass the P/S and air pump, and upgrade to an electric cooling fan (less strain on motor, plus easier and cheaper to replace) and replace the water pump. Any help, info, or advice would be awesome. Thanks.

yo Mud,

WELCOME!
For 89, Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.co...7&mode=threaded
A helper is good to assist in reading Codes; best is to take a cell fone vid and replay it.
Some basics;
Visual Check
1.Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting.
2.Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc.
3.Check EEC system wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc.
4.Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage;
5.Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture.
6.Check the transmission fluid level and quality.
7.Make all necessary repairs before continuing
8. Check headlights

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.  DO THIS TEST AFTER RADIATOR. FAN, etc. are installed
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Turn off all accessories; radio, lights, A/C, heater, blower, fans, etc. (close driver's door)
Then turn off engine and wait 10 seconds.
Do KOEO test First
Post Code(s) here according to:
KOEO
& Later when other work is done
Do the KOER

==============
Without a DTC, these can cause backfire, by Ford:

Backfiring;
RUNS ROUGH - MISSES - BUCK/**** - HESITATION/STUMBLE - SURGE - BACKFIRES
System
Possible Causes


Air/Vacuum
•Check vacuum lines for leaks or wear.
•Check air intake system.
•IAC solenoid
•MAP sensor
•TP sensor
•IAT sensor


Fuel •Check for correct fuel pressure.
•Check for fuel contamination/quality.
•Check fuel filter.
•HO2S(s)
•Fuel Pump System:
FP circuit
FPM circuit
FP relay
•Fuel Injection:
INJ 1, 2

Ignition
•Check for correct base timing.
•Check distributor cap, adapter, and rotor.
•Inspect spark plugs and plug wires.
•Inspect ICM for damage.
•Ignition System:
PIP circuit
SPOUT circuit


Power and Grounds
•Check for generator/regulator noise interference.
•Inspect electrical connections, wires, and harnesses.
•EEC Power:
VREF
•EEC Grounds: SIG RTN

Other
•Check engine coolant level.
•Check thermostat for proper operation.
•Check EGR valve sticking.
•Check PCV valve for correct operation.
•Check for restricted exhaust.
•Check camshaft timing and cylinder compression.
•Check for broken or weak valve springs.
•ECT sensor
•EGR Systems:
EVP sensor
EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR); also called EGR Vacuum Solenoid

Will be back Mon late or on Tues. Others wil help you for now I am sure.

yo,

Try my Vacuum leak test @ http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/

post #20

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Electric Fan:

Installation, Lincoln in an 89

Source: by Tim C (TnTbronco2, Trail Truck, Street Truck, Crazed, Broke, OoG) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/1725/56849

Installation, Taurus & Radiator, Water Pump in a 90

Source: by 90Beater (Topher, Chris) athttp://bronco.tophersworld.com/writeup_cooling.htm

Installation, Taurus in an 89

Source: by Will H (kf4amu, The Beast) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/819/25308

Installation, 1550 CFM in an 88

Source: by TheRics88Bronco (The Ric) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/17099/65094

Installation, pics, Flex-a-lite® Duals 295 in an 88

Source: by csn.rebel (CSNREBEL) at http://www.superford.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=4672&s=26545

=================

Smog Pump;

Removal, Belt Part Number in an 89 5.8; NAPA Belt Part # 060825

Source: by Cucamongan (Scotty) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/15996/70029

Removal, Belt Part Numbers & Applications in an 89 5.8; "...Got a 91" belt and it fits perfectly, the pointer on the tensioner was right in the middle of the range area..."

Source: by moz_21

Removal, Belt in an 88 5.0; "...I tried an 89.5" first, 2 inches shorter than stock and it was too long. So I went back hoping for something about 88 or so and all they had was a 87.5. It was a bit short and a royal pita to put on but it is running fine. A lil tight but it should hold till I get an 88.2 which they can order..."

Source: by fright88

Removal, Belt Part Number 882K6 in an 88 5.0

Source: by Barbaric35

Removal; "...What you need to do is electrically plug in the TAB and TAD solenoids but remove the vacuum lines, then all the air injection plumbing and valves can be removed and the heads plugged. The EGR is a seperate system from the Thermactor and the computer treats it very differently, it also helps increase milage and power so it's a good idea to keep it anyway... you'll get codes if you remove the solenoids, the easiest way to avoid this is to just leave them plugged in. The TAB and TAD you could fake out pretty easy, but even the old EGR system can't be faked because the computer both commands valve movement and watches for feedback to confirm it happened, so a dummy resistor won't cut it.

Source: by Conanski (Paul (Conan) O)

+++++

TAB & TAD solenoid valve eliminators,

Solder it on or extend the harness wiring as Mumblerone did

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n132/Mumblerone/IMG_1366Medium.jpg

and a neat mod by jrichker; "...Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAB & TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAB & TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area. 18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog #: 64-3053

Two flat pin connectors.

One 82 ohm, 3 watt resistor. (diff Ford/..)

One piece 3/8" heat sink tubing 2" long.

Two pieces 3/16" heat shrink tubing 1 1/2" long.

Solder the pins onto the resistor leads using electrical solder.

Slide the 3/8" heat shrink tubing over the resistor.

Slide the two pieces of 3/16" heat shrink tubing over the two wires, leaving the flat part of the pins uncovered

It helps to have the resistor leads straight and not bent as shown in the first picture when you apply heat to the heat shrink tubing. That way, the tubing shrinks more evenly.

Finally, apply heat to shrink all the tubing uniformly

Bend the leads to fit the spacing on the female TAB & TAD connector sockets.

Push the connector pins of the completed resistor assembly into the empty female TAD or TAD connector sockets on the wiring harness. The resistor assemblies replace the missing solenoids: one resistor assembly per solenoid socket..."

read more

read more and see many pics.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/finally-learned-how-to-read-codes.790379/

= ===

Water Pump:

Soak bolts in PB BLaster or other rust penetrant; or make your own w/ 50% mix of acetone and PS or auto trans fluid.

Get a Map Gas unit and heat the bolts.

Mark location of each bolt as you remove them; use a cardboard template and poke holes it for each bolt.

Installation in an 89 Source: by Brahma502 at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/15076/70642

Replacement by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4970/18192

By-Pass Hose Installation Info & pics in an 87

Source: by 87BroncoEB (87EBBronco, Mike) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/9228/32330

Replacement by Ford;

Removal

1.Drain the cooling system.

2.Remove drive belt (8620).

3.Loosen the bolts on the fan clutch (8A616).

4.Remove the bolts securing the fan shroud (8146) to the radiator (8005). Remove the fan shroud.

5.Disconnect the lower radiator hose (8286), heater water hose (18472) and water bypass tube (8548) at the water pump (8501). Remove water pump pulley (8509).

6.Remove power steering and A/C bracket bolts and position bracket out of way.

7.Remove water pump attaching bolts and remove water pump from engine (6007).

Installation

1. CAUTION: Do not use solutions such as brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner, etc., as these solutions can leave a residue on the machined surfaces. Use only a cleaner which meets or exceeds Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A, such as Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent.

NOTE: Before a water pump is installed, check it for damage. If it is damaged, replace it.

Remove all gasket material from the mounting surfaces of the engine front cover (6019) and water pump.

2.Position a new gasket, coated on both sides with Ford Perfect Seal Sealing Compound F2AZ-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M4G115-A or ESR-M18P2-A, on the engine front cover; then install the water pump.

3.Install the attaching bolts. Tighten bolts to 20-28 Nm (15-21 lb-ft).

4.Install the fan shroud, lower radiator hose, heater water hose and water bypass tube. Tighten clamps to 3-4 Nm (27-35 lb-in).

5.Reposition power steering and A/C bracket. Install power steering and A/C bracket bolts. Tighten bolts securely.

6.Position water pump pulley on hub.

7.Install the fan blade (8600) and fan shroud assembly to the water pump pulley. Install and tighten bolts to 16-24 Nm (12-18 lb-ft).

8.Install the drive belt. Refer to routing decal.

9.Fill and bleed the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03. Operate the engine until normal operating temperatures have been reached and check for leaks.

Ok, had some surging problems and stumbling problems. Thinking vacuum problem. Truck runs fine at idle, and for a few minutes before it stalls out from a dead stop. Having to rev the engine to about 1500 rpms before I ease off the clutch

Hey M5, what's better? The electric cooling fan or the clutch cooling fan? Need something that pushes more air and wont ***** up a new rad if it fails

I got four codes, 34,34,134,34

Ok, 134 is a self explanatory code, rear O2 sensor isnt hooked up because I unhooked it due to surges and stuttering. Fixed the problem. 34 on the otherhand is the EGR not working properly? How do I solve that problem?

Ok, 134 is a self explanatory code, rear O2 sensor isnt hooked up because I unhooked it due to surges and stuttering. Fixed the problem. 34 on the otherhand is the EGR not working properly? How do I solve that problem?

The three 34 codes were KOEO btw, not sure why I got three, going to do some pin point tests in the AM, getting a hold of a boost/vacuum gauge will help, possible ERG going out?

yo Mud,

DTC 34 = (KOEO/KOER) PFE or EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts.

34 = (CM) PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed above the closed limit of 0.67 volts.

Possible Issues; Failed sensor; carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat or you have a wiring problem.

Remove the EGR valve, check the Gasket; get new one @ most parts stores; clean EGR with carbon remover or carb cleaner and a brush . Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the ****** side of the EGR by mouth. The egr is not closing properly can cause detonation.

The EEC is not receiving a signal from the EVP that the EGR is closing. Either the EGR is not fully closing, the EVP is bad or you have a wiring problem.

Test the EVP both on and off the EGR, if it tests good replace the EGR.

http://web.archive.org/web/20070121090517/http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35

"...Ford EGR systems "...PCM will not operate the EGR valve unless it sees: The engine warmed up to normal operating temperature. TPS at partial throttle. TPS not at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). MAP/MAF must be indicating light or moderate load. A certain amount of computer clock time has to be elapsed..."

Source: by tomco-inc.com

You saw 3 codes for the 34 in KOEO?

Should have seen 2 at most in KOEO; One is stored in Continuous Memory (CM) and other stored while in KOEO

After you clean the EGR, etc. do the Self-Test over and see what you get.

The Self-Test is divided into three specialized tests: Key On Engine Off Self-Test, Engine Running Self-Test, and Continuous Self-Test. The Self-Test is not a conclusive test by itself, but is used as a part of the functional Quick-Test diagnostic procedure. The PCM stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.

The Key On Engine Off and Engine Running Self-Tests are functional tests which only detect faults present at the time of the Self-Test. Continuous Self-Test is performed during normal vehicle operation and stores any fault information in Keep Alive Memory (KAM) for retrieval at a later time.

Key On Engine Off Self-Test

At this time, a test of the EEC system is conducted with power applied and engine at rest.

To detect errors during Key On Engine Off Self-Test, the fault must be present at the time of testing.

Continuous Memory DTCs are issued as a result of information stored during Continuous Self-Test, while the vehicle was in normal operation. These DTCs are displayed only during Key On Engine Off Self-Test and after the separator pulse. Intermittent faults that have not occurred in the last 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications) are erased from Continuous Memory and will not produce a Continuous Memory DTC.Note: The separator pulse and Continuous Memory DTCs follow Key On Engine Off DTCs ONLY.

Mudslinger91 said:

Hey M5, what's better? The electric cooling fan or the clutch cooling fan? Need something that pushes more air and wont ***** up a new rad if it fails

Click to expand...

I have stayed with stock clutch fan on past Fords.

You can go to electric if you have the time & $ to convert to electric and have cooling issues in summer where you live during city slow-speed stop & go.

It's cheaper for us to convert to E fan, for one, less water pumps, two, the engine won't be Turning a propeller any more. As for the EGR, where is it located on an 89 F250 XLT LARIAT 5.8?

Found my EGR and position sender, fried my solenoid in the process of taking the hood off, need to replace the EGR, and position sensor and PCV valve. Now I'm getting codes 21 and 24, plus two 11 codes (pass codes) I think it's from snipping the wire that runs to the light on the hood, not sure. I can Re wire it later tho, that may fix it.

yo m,

21; See my reply and testing @ http://broncozone.com/topic/22582-transmission-trouble-e40d/

24; Intake Air charge temperature sensor (ACT or IAT) out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.

Air Charge Temp sensor (ACT)

This measures the temperature of the air entering the engine. Which impacts the fuel ratio; the cooler the incoming air is the denser it is. Denser air can utilize more fuel, giving us even greater accuracy in obtaining our desired air to fuel ratio.

read mote incl testing @ http://web.archive.org/web/20120121075616/http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=29

Location Diagram & Depiction in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM

Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at http://broncozone.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=6665

Also here are some more component location diagrams for your 89 F 250 5.8;

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=27439

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=27450

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=27457

Ok, I will go look at those things. Can't do KOEO anymore because the solenoid is fried to **** and back, but I will go look at those other things once I have the new stuff replaced. Could be air temp throwing it off (afraid to start the truck due to no rad or cooling system)

To M5, I have another problem. I need to remove the front hubs. My rear end is a 4.10 limited slip (if you need more info to know what my front end is I can get it in a couple hours) need to know what tool(s) I need to do this. I have a socket set and hex Allen wrenches, but what kind of axle socket do I need to remove the hubs?

yo Mud,

Stock front is the Dana 44-IFS (Independent Front Suspension) aka Twin Traction Beam (TTB);

some have swapped from 78-79 Bronco, etc.Dana 44 Straight Axle (aka Solid Axle Suspension (SAS)

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/bronco/tech/D44solid/sap05.jpg

78-79 Straight Axle pic by Brian S

On IFS front driving axles, the cover on the front of the carrier housing is integral with the left axle arm assembly. A mylar tag, with the gear ratio and part number, is attached to the rear face of the right-hand axle support arm.

Identification; Cover Gasket Depiction

Source: by usgear

http://web.archive.org/web/20100309100915/http://www.usgear.com/tl/dana1.htm

Dana44 TTB front [3,50] ID Tag Location pic in an 84



Source: by justshootme84 (Randy Z, Casual Mudder) ...RIP Friend...

Differential Overview, Specs, etc.

Source: by Mr. N at

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/index.htm

DANA 44 Parts Break-Out Diagrams w/ Auto & Manual Locking Hubs & BoM; 6 MB PDF see page 120

Source: by DANA @

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-9.PDF

Ford built our Broncos & other 4x4 trucks & vans with a numerically lower front gear ratio in the front Dana 44 than the rear so that off-road steering is enhanced. A Bronco built with 3.55 rear ratio would have a 3.54 ration in the front Dana 44; or; 3.08 in the 8.8 & 3.07 in the Dana 44; or 4.11 in the 8.8 & 4.10 in the Dana 44, etc.

Following was in my MS WORD Notes and the source, Randy's Ring & Pinion has removed it from their current web site; The gear ratio in the front of a four wheel drive has to be different from the front so the front wheels will pull more. There have been many different ratio combinations used in four-wheel drive vehicles, but not so that the front will pull more. Gear manufactures use different ratios for many different reasons. Some of those reasons are: strength, gear life, noise (or lack of it), geometric constraints, or simply because of the tooling they have available. I have seen Ford use a 3.50 ratio in the rear with a 3.54 in the front, or a 4.11 in the rear with a 4.09 in the front. As long as the front and rear ratios are within 1%, the vehicle works just fine on the road, and can even be as different as 2% for off-road use with no side effects. point difference in ratio is equal to 1%. To find the percentage difference in ratios it is necessary to divide, not subtract. In order to find the difference, divide one ratio by the other and look at the numbers to the right of the decimal point to see how far they vary from 1.00. For example: 3.54 ÷ 3.50 = 1.01, or 1%, not 4% different. And likewise 4.11 ÷ 4.09 = 1.005, or only a 1/2% difference. These differences are about the same as a 1/3" variation in front to rear tire height, which probably happens more often than we realize. A difference in the ratio will damage the transfer case. Any extreme difference in front and rear ratios or front and rear tire height will put undue force on the drive train. However, any difference will put strain on all parts of the drivetrain. The forces generated from the difference have to travel through the axle assemblies and the driveshafts to get to the transfer case. These excessive forces can just as easily break a front u-joint or rear spider gear as well as parts in the transfer case. by Randy's Ring & Pinion

====

Hubs

I assume you have manual locking hubs?

Removal, etc. by Warn @ http://warn.iwebcat.com/imgVD/WAR/61420C0-pn20990.pdf

Removal in a 92 (in ball joint section)

Source: by Zach K (BurnedB, BurnedBronco, Badassbronco) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/1549/8963

Replacement (Warn® 6 ****** part of his brake job) in a 91 (no torque specs)

Source: by DcSkater602 (Steve) at http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=9901&s=30187

Replacement, 6 ***** to Warn® Premium (6 *****) pics in an 89 (no torque specs)

Source: by Andrew K (Andy351, das panzer, sloppy seconds, the magic carpet) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/2318/14741

Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (Ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent; available at most parts stores

) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.).." Thanks to 90beater (Topher, Chris)!!!!

by Chris @ http://bronco.tophersworld.com/writeup_hubs.htm

Dana 44 Bearing Spindle Nut Socket aka lockout spanner or Ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent;

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Spindle-Nut-Socket-Dana-44/productinfo/29625/

$15.00 Dana 44 Font Ends, with 4-prong design spindle nuts.

or

Dana 44 Bearing Spindle Nut Socket aka lockout spanner or Ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent;

pic (4160) for 86-94 Manual Hubs

Source: by http://web.archive.org/web/20090203131458/http://autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4160.htm



Operational Test; "... (engine off, hubs disengaged), crawl under the truck with the transfer case in 2HI, you should be able to grab the front drive shaft and turn it by hand. Also with the hubs disengaged you should see the front axles turning freely. Now engage the hubs and you should not be able to turn the drive shaft by hand. Jack the front wheels off the ground with the hubs engaged, turn the drive shaft by hand, the wheels should turn. The 4x4 light should not be on in 2HI, when in 4LOW you may have a low range light on, (not all trucks have that light) at least mine doesn't..."

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

"...Manual Hub OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS: ONLY use fingers to turn dials. DO NOT USE PLIERS. Set the hublock dials to “FREE” and transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive. To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to “LOCK” and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low. Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks. Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel rive because it can cause drive train damage. Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between “FREE” and “LOCK” or it will damage the hublocks. Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage. Driving with the hublocks in ”FREE’’ and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage. To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..."

Source: by Warn®

Are you sure I have a Dana 44? I don't think I have independent front, I have the HD set up, overload leafs in the back, leafs in the front, and my front diff looks the same size as my rear diff. Here is the code off the tag of the front diff (facing front of truck, left front of diff) 409E8TA

yo Mud,

No, I am not sure. But from memory, 409E8TA is the D44HD

4 09 is the gear ratio (4.09:1),

the E8 is for 1988, T is for truck and has 8 lugs

8-lug Swap pics, using Ford Dana 44HD in a 90

Source: by Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling)

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/172405/fullsize/TTB8Lug%20002.jpg

In the pic above the shorter beam is from a D44 TTB HD