Leaky Rear Side Window 90 B2

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b2girl

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Leaky rear side window, temporary fix? 

dad thinks we should caulk it. 

how hard is it to remove the window itself and replace weatherstripping or whatever is used? 

any help is greatly appreciated! 

 

miesk5

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yo,

Removing Bronco II Rear Side Windows - By dano2664

"I recently rolled my 1988 Bronco II. It was a mild roll and damage was limited to the front half of the truck (fenders, hood, driver's side door, windshield and frame).

There was enough damage that I decided I was going to strip everything down to the frame and start from scratch. I remembered someone complaining about removing Bronco II rear windows in one piece, so I thought that I would write up how I took mine out. (Note: 1984 - 1985 side rear windows had an exterior aluminum trim to go around them and are glued in similar to how a windshield is)

Step 1: Get a friend to help you. Offer refreshments if necessary. You can probably do this on your own, but it can't hurt to have some extra hands and encouragement/heckling.

Step 2: Remove all interior trim around the window you are trying to take out.

Step 3: Remove the small nuts that secure the window to the body. I think there are 16 in all - 5 each on top and bottom, 3 on each of the sides.

Step 4: Even though you have removed all of the nuts, the window still won't come out. There is an adhesive/sealant applied around the entire window. It has a sticky/foamy feel to it. You need to cut this all the way around the window to allow you to pull it out. Get yourself a flat-head screwdriver and some wire of some sort (an old bike brake cable works awesome). Starting in one of the corners, push out on the window just enough to dig some of the adhesive out with your screwdriver. Now feed half of the wire through that space. Have your grab the other end and "saw" around the window. The little studs on the window get in the way. You will need to feed the wire around them, or just start again on the other side.

Step 5: Once you have cut around the entire window, you should be able to pull the bottom of the window out and lifting the top.

Step 6: Don't drop it!"

=======

"There was a rumor that the Bronco II's had been offered with rear side windows that were removable. Instructions on operating and removing the windows can be found in the 1984 - 1985 Bronco II owners manual.

Below are scans from a Ford Bronco II owners manual showing the instructions. We have never seen one of these vehicles, by unknown"

for ws; ask:

OUR SPONSOR, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard http://broncograveyard.com

FAIRCHILD INDUSTRIES WEATHERSTRIP KITS http://afproducts.automotivefairchild.com/viewitems/ford-replacement-parts/ford-bronco-ii-replacement-parts?

http://www.am-autoparts.com

www.1aauto.com

www.lmctruck.com

www.rockauto.com

www.jamesduff.com

www.jcwhitney.com

Bronco II Quarter Flip Windows.jpg

Bronco II Quarter Flip Windows 2.jpg

Bronco II Quarter Flip Windows 3.jpg

 
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Rons beast

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Hey girl,

You can try a "flow grade" window sealer.  They are made by Permatex, and usually available at part stores. Start at the top of the seal. Use a wooden or plastic tool to pull the rubber away slightly to allow the tip of the tube in. Squeeze some sealer in as you move the tube across and around the seal. You do NOT need to seal the bottom. The sealer is flow grade and will "flow to the lowest point, sealing any voids in the process. 

Worked well many times for me, and was the preferred method of leak repair at the shop I worked for.

Good Luck.

 
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b2girl

b2girl

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Ron, 

would this work in 30+ degree weather? 

sounds like i dont have to remove the window? 

im hoping to find the quickest way to get this done.

seeing as i have a trip to the mountains this weekend it'd be nice to have my b2 back! 

my options are limited to either fixing it in 30 - 40 degree weather or taking it in to a shop to have it done. 

i have looked into RTV (room temp vulcanized rubber) but the cold seems to be an issue! 

thank you for your help! 

 

Rons beast

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Hey B2girl,

30-40 deg. temps should not be a problem.  Of course if a garage is available that can keep the temps above 50 even better.  Correct, you don't have to remove the window.

Flow grade is different from RTV sealers, and is the preferred sealer by many car manufactures.

What I have used with success is Permatex Flowable Silicone windshield and glass sealer Item # 81730. Purchased at Advance Auto Parts, but I'm sure many other part stores have it.

 The manufacturer lists no temperature restrictions.

Good Luck

 
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b2girl

b2girl

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awesome thanks! i currently have it parked in the garage but the garage isnt much warmer than outside. 

i appreciate all the help! 

 

honda34dad

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Hey girl,

You can try a "flow grade" window sealer. They are made by Permatex, and usually available at part stores. Start at the top of the seal. Use a wooden or plastic tool to pull the rubber away slightly to allow the tip of the tube in. Squeeze some sealer in as you move the tube across and around the seal. You do NOT need to seal the bottom. The sealer is flow grade and will "flow to the lowest point, sealing any voids in the process.

Worked well many times for me, and was the preferred method of leak repair at the shop I worked for.

Good Luck.
Old post, bringing it back and hoping Ron is still active.

So I need to lift the seal slightly and squeeze the sealer in, do I do this from the top side of the seal, all the way around? You say do NOT seal the bottom, is that meaning the seal at the bottom of the window? I squeeze the sealer into and under the seal touching the window, correct, the inside of the seal?
 

Tiha

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I use body seam sealer. It is available at most parts stores, comes in a caulking tube. It is removeable as well, not permanent in case you need to remove the window later in life.

Yes you lift the rubber and seal from the outside.

Don't see any reason to not do the bottom too.
 

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