Steering bad in 4WD maybe bad hub ??

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J Early

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I have a 1996 that I put manual hubs in many years ago. All of a sudden I have terrible steering control in 4WD. It returns to normal only after I take it out of 4WD on the dash, turn manual hubs to free, and back up more than 10 feet. I know the 4WD is at least working somewhat since I was stuck on ice today, put it in 4WD and drove out no problem..

Anybody have this happen before?

 

Seabronc

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Need more of a description of the steering problem.  You should never run 4x4 on dry pavement.  Also, you can not turn as sharp in 4x4.

:)>-

 

miesk5

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yo E,

WELCOME!

As Seabronc advised.

See 4x4 Operating Instructions in 96 Bronco Owners Guide by Hiller Ford

go to "Driving Your Bronco"

http://www.hillerford.com/resource_library/owner_manuals_pdf/1996_owner_manuals_ford/96bronco.pdf

Page 188 and on.

EXCERPTS;

To disengage the automatic locking hubs, operate the vehicle in 2H in the opposite direction for approximately 10 feet (3 meters).

Operating in 2H with the hubs locked increases fuel consumption, noise, vibration, and wear. For prolonged 2H operation on dry pavement, disengage the automatic or Manual locking hubs. Some leave their manual hubs in Locked during winter driving where snow or ice may be encountered.

and for repair, troubleshooting & operation, etc.;

96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm

EXCERPTS:

Section 05-03C: Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

Inspection and Verification

Manual Locking Hubs

Manual locking hubs are simple to diagnose. Place the transfer case (7A195) in 2-wheel drive and raise the front wheels (1007) off the ground. When in the unlocked position, the wheels should be able to turn freely. Then lock each of the front hubs and rotate the front wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. In addition, the axle and front driveshaft should be moving along with the wheel. Disengage the hubs and repeat the procedure to check that the hubs have smoothly disengaged.

Automatic Locking Hubs

NOTE: While the vehicle is hoisted, shift into 4-wheel drive from a dead stop and not while rear wheels are rotating in order to avoid slamming the hub locks into the lock position.

Raise vehicle on a hoist so that all wheels are off the ground. Start engine (6007) with vehicle in neutral and transfer case in two-wheel drive. Front wheels should spin freely by hand. Put transfer case in 4WD and put vehicle in gear. Front and rear wheels should rotate together. Put vehicle in neutral and spin front wheels by hand in the forward direction. The front axle and front driveshaft should rotate with the wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. To disengage the hubs, spin the wheels in the opposite direction until an audible click is heard. Spin wheels forward again and they should rotate freely without the axle and driveshaft rotating. Repeat the procedure, only shift into 4-wheel drive and put the vehicle in reverse. This time the hubs should release when the front wheels are spun in the forward direction.

"...Manual Hub OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS: ONLY use fingers to turn dials. DO NOT USE PLIERS. Set the hublock dials to “FREE” and transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive. To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to “LOCK” and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low. Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks. Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel rive because it can cause drive train damage. Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between “FREE” and “LOCK” or it will damage the hublocks. Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage. Driving with the hublocks in ”FREE’’ and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage. To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..." Source: by Warn®

Also, do same for auto hubs where you can travel on a straight rode for a mile or so.

To get accurate info when posting Qs, soon in your profile, include your year, Model (XLT, etc.) engine size; transmission, transfer case type (manually shifted or Touch Drive), locking hub types and any major mods such as body or suspension lift.

Left Click your name in upper right corner; in pop-up left Click on My Profile

Below an Ad, in right side. Left Click Edit my Profile

In Left Side, Left Click Change Signature

 
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J Early

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OK, HI!

I have had my bronco for 8 years and live in snow country 6 months a year.

All of a sudden I cannot dive more than 25-30 MPH or I will dart across the road or  into the ditch. IT feels like the wheels push to the right , then if I correct the wheel, it will then pull to the left until I correct to the right again etc. It never tracks straight. Seeing as this goes away in 2WD and unlocking the hubs (and backing up some), I wonder if the differential  can create these symptoms, like the power fluctuating between the right and left wheel? 

 

miesk5

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yo J,

Is this happening in Both 2 wheel and in 4 wheel drive?

Do you have manual shiftr or Electric Touch Drive?

Manual or Auto Hubs?

For troubleshooting see;

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjb0003.htm

some Excerpts;

•Wanders Side to Side — Loose Steering

•Vehicle overloaded or unevenly loaded.

•CORRECT as required.

•Improper (mismatched) tires and wheels.

•INSTALL correct tire and wheel combination. REFER to Section 04-04.

•Improper tire pressure.

•ADJUST air pressure in tires.

•Loose steering gear mounting.

•ADJUST to 73-89 Nm (54-66 lb-ft).

•Front and rear suspension components loose, worn or exhibit damaged condition.

•TIGHTEN or REPLACE as necessary. REFER to Group 04.

•Loose, worn or damaged steering sector shaft arm drag link.

•TIGHTEN or REPLACE as necessary. REFER to Section 11-03.

•Loose wheel lug nuts.

•TIGHTEN to specifications.

•Spindle pin (king pin) binding.

•LUBRICATE suspension. REFER to Group 04.

•Improperly adjusted front wheel bearing.

•ADJUST to specification.

•Steering column intermediate shaft coupling fractured.

•REPLACE as required.

•Incorrect toe setting.

•SET to specifications. REFER to Section 00-04.

•Improperly adjusted steering gear.

•ADJUST to specification (meshload only). REFER to Section 11-02B or Section 11-02D.

•Steering column misaligned.

•REFER to Section 11-04.

•Steering column components loose or exhibit excessive play.

•REPAIR as required.

•Pulls to One Side

•Improperly sized tires.

•INSTALL correct tire and wheel combination.

•Improper tire pressure.

•ADJUST air pressure in tire. REFER to Section 04-04.

•Unevenly loaded vehicle.

•CORRECT as required.

•Improper brake operation or adjustment.

•INSPECT, ADJUST and CORRECT as required. REFER to Group 06.

•Improperly adjusted front wheel bearing, or worn or damaged rear wheel bearing.

•ADJUST or REPLACE as required. REFER to Group 05.

•Broken or sagging front spring and/or rear spring.

•INSPECT and REPLACE as required. REFER to Group 04 and Group 05.

•Loose steering gear mountings.

•TIGHTEN to specification.REFER to Section 11-02B or Section 11-02D.

•Loose, worn or damaged steering sector shaft arm drag link.

•TIGHTEN and REPLACE as required. REFER to Section 11-03.

•Bent front wheel spindle.

•INSPECT and REPLACE as required.

•Bent rear axle housing and/or loose rear spring, shock absorber and suspension arm attaching points.

•INSPECT, TIGHTEN and REPLACE as required. REFER to Group 04.

•Frame or underbody out of alignment.

•CORRECT as required. REFER to Section 02-01.

•Misaligned front wheel.

•SET to specification. REFER to Section 04-00.

•Belts on tires misaligned.

•REPLACE as required. REFER to Section 04-04.

•Steering gear valve binding or out of balance.

•CLEAN and REPLACE as necessary. REFER to Section 11-02B or Section 11-02D.

•GO to Pinpoint Test C.

 

Seabronc

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Since it goes away in 2WD and is as dangerous as you say in 4x4, I'd have that truck off the road and doing a serious inspection of the front end.  There are a bunch of possibilities, but off the top of my head I'd suspect the U-joints in the front axles being corroded and worn.  It's hard to say without looking at the entire front end.  Even though 2WD seems to eliminate the problem, I'd still jack it up and look for play in the ball joints, wiggle the wheel top to bottom and side to side. You should not have play in it.  Also with the wheels off the ground, try prying up on the bottom of the wheel to see if the move up and down, they shouldn't.

Good luck

 
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J Early

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I have checked everything in all joints and play in the wheel and it is all tight. The only thing I note is the drivers side axle shaft will slide in and out of the hub with about 3/8" play, and the driver side is pretty tight.

 

Bully Bob

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WOW..!

Thats a true wonderment..!  As Seabronc says.., seems unsafe to drive.

Best guess would be to get it up on a rack/all four off the ground, then run it in 4x4..., look & listen.., move the steering wheel. See if you notice anything strange/hear anything unusual.

Assuming this is happening on ice/snow. Even so.., I can't imagine anything snaping the steering back & forth except maybe a left & or right axle locking up if that's even possible.

Does this rig have posi in the front..?

Pretty sure both my axles have slight movement in-n-out.., maybe 1/8 inch at the hub.

 
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J Early

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No locker in front.

I had all 4 wheels off the ground last night and ran  it right through all the 4WD functions and it all worked well, Hubs locked when thay should, unlocked when they should, 4WD works, everything tight. Then I took out both lock-outs and inspected and they are both fine. ??? With these manual hubs, they are unlocked the moment you turn the dial, so I don't know why I would have to back up several feet after taking it out of 4WD in order to make the problem go away. Seems odd.

I am almost starting to think differential..

 
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J Early

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Fluid level is good. Also checked the outer u-joints to make sure they are not binding.

Is there a way the power steering pump can actually  puth the wheel right or left? I would not think so but at this point I am not ruling anything out!

 

Bully Bob

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"Is there a way the power steering pump can actually  pull the wheel right or left?"

Not the "pump".., but possibly the P/S box. I thought about this however.., logic dictates it would do it in 2 wheel drive as well. 

BTW..., how did you determine there's no posi in the front...?

RU sure the PO didn't install posi..??

Was the box ever tampered with or rebuilt..?  Did you move the steering wheel while up in the air with rig in 4x4 & running.?

 
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J Early

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Yes, I agree that this should be an issue in 2WD as well as 4WD if itis the pump, but I was not sure if the extra drag/force needed to move the front u-joints with the hubs locked would be enough to expose  a pump issue??

My Dad bought this new and I got it from him. I thought he just said there was a  locker in the back. I do have all 4 wheels in the air and if I spin one front wheel, the other rotates the opposite direction ( with hubs locked).

I will run the 4WD and turn the wheels while in the air. I thought I did this, but I will do it again.  

Thanks

 

Bully Bob

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Filling in your info pages sure helps getting more & accurate responses.  You'll see mine below & left of ea. post.

This info on you & your rig goes a long way to save time & errors.

Rotating the wheel left/right.., stop to stop should be smooth.

 

miesk5

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yo;

re; "The only thing I note is the drivers side axle shaft will slide in and out of the hub with about 3/8" play"

This is from:

1996 F-150, F-250 4x4 and Bronco Workshop Manual

Section 05-03A: Axle, Front Drive, Dana Models 44 and 50

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Dana 4-Wheel Drive Front Axle, F-150 4x4 and Bronco with Coil Springs

Another WAG because of that drivers side axle shaft play;

...Check the bolt securing the left axle assembly to the front crossmember...

Ford does not include checking the radius arm nuts, bushings, etc. but I assumed you have.

For Torque Spec.;Installation

1.Raise the vehicle on a hoist or a jack. Position the left drive axle assembly on a jack and position to the radius arm. Secure the left drive axle to front crossmember with the pivot bolt. Tighten bolt to 156-212 lb-ft.

AAlso, we bought our 96 new; did test drive, but since our family has bought quite a few Ford vehicles from this dealer and we wanted this one, dealer let us take it on short freeway ride. Steering felt vague all the way but roads were in terrible condition.

A week later on a good surface, the Bronco was getting looser; it was a bad Pitman.

Use the 96 Manual (Partial exc for Steering and Suspension sections that are complete) to check other items;

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm

 
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J Early

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Sooo..

With all 4 wheels up in the air, running in 4WD, turning right and left-= no issues other than I get some "shaking" in the transfer case area when the wheels are turned all the way right or left.

On a test drive, I found I can unlock one hub, right or left, and the problem goes away.

Even more exciting.. I removed the REAR driveshaft, then drove it around in front wheel drive only, a few miles, and the problem was not there. I do have the stock trac loc in the rear axle.

Thoughts?

 

Rons beast

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Hey J,

That sounds like the front and rear gear ratios are not the same. OR you have a posi even if you think it isn't and they are binding.  What you are describing sounds like the front and rear diffs are "fighting" each other when both are under power.  Check the ratio in both, and don't rely on codes, or tags on the outside. The gears inside may have been changed. Posi may have been added. You never know what the PO had done!

Good Luck 

 
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J Early

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Fortunately My dad bought this new and has never modified anything., I have driven it daily for the last 7 years.  

 

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