yo B,
One more Q; when you "backed down driveway" was tank at least 1/2 full (or slightly less depending upon driveway slope)
On the fuel pressure; Some gauges are not calibrated; so if fuel filter has been changed according to Ford's Maintenance Schedule - use 1996 schedule; same as your 93 at
https://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/MaintCalProcessPageVehicleLookup&level=vehicle&BackToLogin=Owner/Page/MaintCalProcessPage,
then go back to that spark test in the Link above;
"The idea behind checking for spark is to see if all of the 8 engine cylinders are getting spark." So were all 8 checked?
are wires connected correctly at distr cap and routed correctly?
CASE 1: Spark was present in all of the cylinders A spark result, if you're using a dedicated spark tester, tells you that:
•That the ignition control module is OK.
•That the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor is OK.
•That the ignition coil is doing dandy.
•You don't have to spend any time testing them or any money replacing them.
If fuel lines/systems have been drained or evacuated, it may take up to 15 seconds to obtain the pressure specified.
Since CEL was on and if battery was Not disconnected;
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded
A helper is good to assist in reading Codes; best is to take a cell fone vid and replay it.
Some basics;
Visual Check
1.Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting.
2.Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc.
3.Check EEC system wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc.
4.Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage; IAC, TPS, etc.
5.Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture.
6.Check the transmission fluid level and quality.
7.Make all necessary repairs before continuing
8. Check headlights
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test
Make sure transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Turn off all accessories; radio, lights, A/C, heater, blower, fans, etc. (close driver's door)
Do KOEO test
Post Code(s)
Info;
The Self-Test is divided into three specialized tests: Key On Engine Off Self-Test, Engine Running Self-Test, and Continuous Self-Test. The Self-Test is not a conclusive test by itself, but is used as a part of the functional Quick-Test diagnostic procedure. The PCM stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.
The Key On Engine Off and Engine Running Self-Tests are functional tests which only detect faults present at the time of the Self-Test. Continuous Self-Test is performed during normal vehicle operation and stores any fault information in Keep Alive Memory (KAM) for retrieval at a later time.
Key On Engine Off Self-Test
At this time, a test of the EEC system is conducted with power applied and engine at rest.To detect errors during Key On Engine Off Self-Test, the fault must be present at the time of testing.Continuous Memory DTCs are issued as a result of information stored during Continuous Self-Test, while the vehicle was in normal operation. These DTCs are displayed only during Key On Engine Off Self-Test and after the separator pulse. Intermittent faults that have not occurred in the last 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications) are erased from Continuous Memory and will not produce a Continuous Memory DTC.Note: The separator pulse and Continuous Memory DTCs follow Key On Engine Off DTCs ONLY.Engine Running Self-Test
At this time, a test of the EEC system is conducted with the engine running. The sensors are checked under actual operating conditions and at normal operating temperatures. The actuators are exercised and checked for expected results.
