yo BB,
Speedo Cable Replacement & Depiction at Speedometer Head in an 85; MIESK5 NOTE; Some Speedo ends (at Speedo) are held on by a plastic clip: place Index finger on Metal Tube & thumb on plastic ring flat surface; Press Flat Surface of clip & Pull Cable from Speedo (Ford calls the speedo end the Head); or screwed on: Turn the cable end counterclockwise to disconnect. You may need an open end wrench.
This is by Chilton for an 85 Bronco; "...1.Remove the instrument cluster as previously described. Remove the lens and the mask from the cluster. 3.Disconnect the speedometer cable. 4.Remove the speedometer attaching screws and remove the unit. To install: 5.Position the speedometer to the pack plate and install the two attaching screws. 6.Examine the square drive hole for sufficient lubrication. If required, apply a 3/16 inch dab of lubricant (B5AZ-19581-A or equivalent) in the drive hole. 7.Reconnect the speedometer cable..."
Cable & Speedometer Head "... Speedometers get into trouble when cables bind or magnetic heads cease due to the absence of lubrication. Like the humble car clock, speedometers need periodic maintenance, too. The spinning speedometer head needs occasional lubrication (speedometer-head lubricant). Pull the cluster out, disconnect the cable, and feed modest doses of lubricant into the head once a year. Don't overdo it. While you're at it, pull the speedometer cable out and bathe it in white grease and a low-viscosity engine oil. This combination will keep it happy for thousands of miles..." MIESK5 NOTE; Some Speedo ends (at Speedo) are held on by a plastic clip: place Index finger on Metal Tube & thumb on plastic ring flat surface; Press Flat Surface of clip & Pull Cable from Speedo (Ford calls the speedo end the Head; or screwed on: Turn the cable end counterclockwise to disconnect. You may need an open end wrench..."
Source: by Jim S
Several areas of concern that may affect speedometer/odometer readings are tires, axle gear ratio and speedometer/odometer drive and driven gears.
TIRES: Improper tire rolling radius and inflation pressure, temperature and size may contribute to inaccurate system readings. System accuracy testing should be performed after the tires are set at the correct pressure as shown on the safety compliance certification label. The tire should be warmed for a short period. Best results are obtained on smooth, dry pavement while driving at a constant speed within the posted speed limit.
AXLE/TRANSAXLE RATIO: The gear ratio of the rear axle or the final drive ratio of the transaxle must be known to select or check if the proper speedometer/odometer drive and driven gears are present. Various gear ratios are available, but usually are not a concern when dealing with speedometer/odometer concerns unless the gear ratio has been changed.
WARNING: NEVER CORRECT SPEEDOMETER READINGS BY CHANGING GEARS UNLESS THE ODOMETER IS ALSO OFF.
DRIVE/DRIVEN GEARS: The speedometer/odometer drive gear is located inside the transmission, transaxle or transfer case and is not easily accessed for change. The driven gear rotates the speedometer cable. Rear wheel drive vehicles have several driven gears with various numbers of teeth available to correct input to the speedometer/odometer head. Front wheel drive vehicles generally do not offer different gears for correction.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The maximum allowable odometer system accuracy error is 3.75% of the actual distance traveled. Ford Motor vehicles are well within those limits.
The speed indication is biased high, except on police vehicles with certified calibration speedometers/odometers. As a general rule, the indicated speed is equal to or greater than the actual speed. This is intended to protect the consumer against violating speed laws. Most customer concerns are related to speedometers reading too high at true speeds between 50 MPH and 65 MPH (80 - 105 Km/h). At that speed range, the worst case errors may indicate a speed that is 10% greater than true speed.
The speedometer head is an instrument which processes information sent to it by the rotating speedometer cable. If the system components send the wrong number of revolution per mile to the speedometer head, an inaccurate speed reading and amount of distanced traveled will be displayed. Since there is no error in the fixed gear ratio of the speedometer head odometer, start by checking the accuracy of the odometer even if the customer concern indicates a speed accuracy problem. Odometer accuracy can be checked by using roads established at mile increments or a known local course. If roads with mile markers are used, a five mile stretch is recommended to allow for inaccuracies. If an error is greater than 3.75%, a change to the transmission drive/driven gear selection, tire size, or tire inflation may need attention. The odometer should be checked again to verify any corrective action. If the indicated speed error exceeds 10% between 50 MPH and 60 MPH (80 - 105 Km/h), replace the speedometer/odometer assembly. Vehicles with transfer cases that have fluctuating readings may be due to slippage of drive gears, parts not splined or loose yoke nuts.
If the vehicle has speed control, the speed accuracy can be checked using the verified odometer vs. time. The formula is as follows:
3600 divded by TIME (seconds to cover one mile) = TRUE MPH(Km/h)
EXAMPLES:
60 MPH (96 Km/h) requires 60 seconds to cover one mile
55 MPH (88 Km/h) requires 65 and 3/4 seconds to cover one mile
50 MPH (80 Km/h) requires 72 seconds to cover one mile
Cluster Removal Tips in a 90
pull the bezels from around the cluster & A/C controls You should see the screws holding them in. Remove them. You might have to remove the wheel, &/or lower the column.
Put the clear plastic lens back on the cluster and take out the 4 screws in the WHITE plastic, just outside the lens. IIRC, they're T20.
If you remove the 4 screws from the HVAC panel, they are T20 , you'll be able to turn it to release the wiring & cables. The cable sleeves clip to the white frame, and when they're released, you cun-hook the cable ends from the levers.
The speedo cable may keep you from getting the cluster out far enough to get at the connectors. Look under the Bronco & make sure all the slack is pushed forward, then pull it up by the brake pedal & try again at pulling the cluster out. To release the speedo cable from the cluster, push the large white plastic collar down, then back
The cable end locks automatically when you push it into the back of the speedo. Look at them whil it's apart and you'll see how they lock.
Gear Change in a 90 (in Xfer Case Tail Housing)
Source: by Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling) at
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/139/13464
Keith shows the cable at Xfer Case Tail Housing
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Do you have an AOD?
AOD have 14 pan bolts, see diagram & pic; P-R-N-(D)-D-1 shifter pattern, note, OD is actually a (D)
E4OD have 20 pan bolts; P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter pattern
Is Check Engine Light ON while driving?
the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it, which does happen, unfortunately.
Anyway, Check for Codes;
a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-co...&mode=threaded
A helper is good to assist in reading Codes; best is to take a cell fone vid and replay it.
Some basics;
Visual Check
1.Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting.
2.Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc.
3.Check EEC system wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc.
4.Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage; IAC, TPS I see was replaced, etc.5.Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture.
6.Check the transmission fluid level and quality. See E4OD Fluid Condition Check Below)
7.Make all necessary repairs before continuing
8. Check headlights
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Turn off all accessories; radio, lights, A/C, heater, blower, fans, etc. (close driver's door)
Then turn off engine and wait 10 seconds.
Do KOEO test First
Post Code(s) here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
The Self-Test is divided into three specialized tests: Key On Engine Off Self-Test, Engine Running Self-Test, and Continuous Self-Test. The Self-Test is not a conclusive test by itself, but is used as a part of the functional Quick-Test diagnostic procedure. The PCM stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.
The Key On Engine Off and Engine Running Self-Tests are functional tests which only detect faults present at the time of the Self-Test. Continuous Self-Test is performed during normal vehicle operation and stores any fault information in Keep Alive Memory (KAM) for retrieval at a later time.
Key On Engine Off Self-Test
At this time, a test of the EEC system is conducted with power applied and engine at rest.
To detect errors during Key On Engine Off Self-Test, the fault must be present at the time of testing.
Continuous Memory DTCs are issued as a result of information stored during Continuous Self-Test, while the vehicle was in normal operation. These DTCs are displayed only during Key On Engine Off Self-Test and after the separator pulse. Intermittent faults that have not occurred in the last 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications) are erased from Continuous Memory and will not produce a Continuous Memory DTC. Note: The separator pulse and Continuous Memory DTCs follow Key On Engine Off DTCs ONLY.
Engine Running Self-Test
At this time, a test of the EEC system is conducted with the engine running. The sensors are checked under actual operating conditions and at normal operating temperatures. The actuators are exercised and checked for expected results.
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E4OD Fluid Condition Check
It should be red, not brown or black. Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure.
Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.
If fluid contamination or transmission failure is confirmed by further evidence of coolant or excessive particles in the transmission pan, the transmission must be disassembled and completely cleaned and serviced. This includes cleaning and flushing the torque converter and transmission cooling system. Repair or replace radiator.
During disassembly and assembly, all overhaul checks and adjustments of clearances and end play must be made.
After the transmission has been serviced, all diagnostic tests and adjustments listed in the Diagnosis by Symptom Charts under Diagnosis by Symptom in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section must be completed to make sure that the problem has been corrected.
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Tach;
Check wiring at coil
1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.Remove the instrument cluster.
.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
.Remove the wiper-washer ****. Use a hook tool to release each **** lock tab.
.Remove the **** from the headlamp switch. Remove the fog lamp switch ****, if so equipped.
.Remove the steering column shroud. Care must be taken not to damage the transmission control selector indicator (PRNDL) cable on vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission.
.On vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the loop on the indicator cable assembly from the retainer pin. Remove the bracket ***** from the cable bracket and slide the bracket out of the slot in the tube.
.Remove the cluster trim cover. Remove the 4 cluster attaching screws, disconnect the speedometer cable wire connector from the printed circuit, 4x4 indicator light and remove the cluster.
.Position the cluster at the opening and connect the multiple connector, the speedometer cable and 4x4 indicator light. Install the 4 cluster retaining screws.
.If so equipped, place the loop on the transmission indicator cable assembly over the retainer on the column.
.Position the tab on the steering column bracket into the slot on the column. Align and attach the *****.
.Place the transmission selector lever on the steering column into the DRIVE position.
.Adjust the slotted bracket so the pin is within the letter band.
.Install the trim cover.
.Install the headlamp switch ****. If so equipped, install the fog lamp switch.
.Install the wiper washer control knobs.
.Connect the battery cable, and check the operation of all gauges, lights and signals.
3.Remove the cluster mask and lens.
4.Remove the tachometer by prying the dial away from the cluster back plate. The tachometer is retained by clips.
5.Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the clips are properly seated.
Cluster Parts & Gauge Similarities, Mounting,in 80-96; lens, blackout ring, terminal clips, shifter plates, bulbs & holders are interchangeable between cases. 87-96 gauges are only held in by their terminal clips, except the speedo. 80-91 speedos are held in by 2 screws
More cluster info in Cluster Swap from a 90 w/tach in an 89
Source: by Tim C (TnTbronco2, Trail Truck, Street Truck, Crazed, Broke, OoG) at
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/1725/9435
exceprts; "Got sick of not having a tach. Went to light truck parts and got a cluster from a 1990 bronco with a factory tach and trip meter. Looks alot worse than it was, only about 10 screws.
Comparison of the two guage clusters, they had the same plug ins for the wiring"
