steering wheel vibration

Well, I got problems again.The casting on the starter broke an ear off the starter and eventually dropped the starter completely out of the transmission Wednesday afternoon and I had a weird vibration in the front end. It shakes really bad in the steering wheel. I don't know if the problems are related or not. So,this morning I took the starter off and got a new one and started the truck and it starts up fine, so I didn't know if it had messed up the flywheel or not because it doesn't start vibrating in the steering wheel until about 30 mph. I changed the brake pads thinking it could possibly be the brakes and they were all cracked up and then drove it and the vibration problem was still there.So, I put my spare tire on it and the vibration is still there. I put it on the drivers front because that is where the vibration seems to be coming from.So,if anybody has any ideas about what the problem is, let me know. The front end seems tight and I don't know what the **** is wrong with it and was hoping to get it fixed before Monday so I can drive it to work.

yo Rog,

I took the liberty in trusted to me by ... site ADMIN to edit your profile to include the year and engine type of your Bronco.

•Vibration

•Tires and wheels.

•Wheel bearings.

•Wheel hubs.

•Rotors.

•Drums.

See this section & others indicated in 96 Bronco/F Series Workshop Manual (Partial)

Vehicle Speed Sensitive

The vibration always occurs at the same vehicle speed and is not affected by engine torque, engine speed, or transmission (7003) gear selection.

Check NON- intensive (alignment, etc. items first such as;

such as tire pressures when cold

Check tire condition

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj40006.htm#extract_698

and;

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj40008.htm#g

Hey Rog,

Vibrations that come in at speed are most always the result of rotating mass. 

The things to check are: 1- Tires with broken belts. (Jack up the front and secure with jack stands. Rotate the tires, spinning by hand and look for noticeable wave in the tread.)

                                        2-Bent rims.  (The check can be done same as above.)

                                        3-Tires not centered on the rims. (look for up and down movement of the tread while the tire is rotating)

                                        4-Out of balance.  (You need to have a tire shop check this for you)

                                        5-Brake rotors that are warped.  ( this is had to detect by eye, and should be the last resort if nothing else is evident. Normally this kind of vibration    come when the brake is applied and doesn't sound likely to be your problem.)

Good Luck

It's the bushings in your tracking arm that go from the frame to the front axle. Goes from about 30-45-ish then disappears, right?  Get you some ORIGINAL rubber tracking arm bushings if you can still find them. Even the aftermarket poly ones I have tried have just enough slop in them they don't last long, especially under severe conditions. Have FoMoCo or a local machine shop press in the new rubber ones in. FoMoCo recommends a **** to go with the bushings so they don'rt tear when being pressed in and they sell that special ***** too. Good luck trying to do it on your own. BUT, problem will be solved and it's worth it. Lasts a long time.

Happy wheeling.

A 1992 does not have a track bar, its TTB. but one hard to check and therefore EASY to over look is the axel bushings. I would say take it to a front alignment shop maybe a tire store and ask for their free inspection.

miesk5: Thanks for making the adjustment on my original post, I think I might of found the problem.My tires are ok and the front end is tight and I remembered spinning the drivers side wheel to see if the brakes were locked up but I didn't check the passenger front. So, I just got home from work and jacked the car up on the passenger side and the brake caliper seems to be seized up because it won't spin freely but you can turn it but it is really hard to turn it. So, do you think that would a good start but the thing is Oreilly's auto parts and Autozone and Advanced auto parts all carry rebuilt calipers and 2 of the places carry the same brand and I can't seem to find anyone that sells new.

yo Rog, YW!

I'd go for the rebuild kit(s) from Ford; see below..or a FORD MOTORCRAFT REMAN Loaded Caliper from Ford or RockAuto..see below;

Try local dealer...print this out;

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1992&m=Ford&mo=Bronco&initSearch=1&keyword=caliper#Search

2V130 (BRCL-22-RM) Front Disc Brake Caliper RH $99.30

Select a dealer for prices & availability View Image

2V131 (BRCL-21-RM) Front Disc Brake Caliper LH (Left)

$100.58

Select a dealer for prices & availability

2V386 (BRCK-5030) Disc Brake Caliper Repair Kit

Front - Includes 2 guide pins

$26.13 Select a dealer for prices & availability

View Image

5077 Caliper Retaining Pin Kit (Frame To Body - Rear) (Right) $58.97

Select a dealer for prices & availability

View Image

Caliper Retaining Pin Kit (Frame To Body - Rear) (Left) $63.48

Select a dealer for prices & availability

View Image

BRC-21-RM

Front Disc Brake Caliper LH (Left)$52.98

Select a dealer for prices & availability

View Image

BRC-22-RM Front Disc Brake Caliper RH

$52.98

Select a dealer for prices & availability

View Image

BRCF-38 Front Disc Brake Caliper (Front Brake); Caliper asy. - RH - 1994/96 F-Series, Bronco - 1994/2003 E-series - w/o pads and anchor bracket $167.15

Select a dealer for prices & availability

View Image

BRCF-39 Front Disc Brake Caliper (Front Brake); Caliper asy. - LH - 1994/96 F-Series, Bronco - 1994/2003 E-series - w/o pads and anchor bracket (Left) $89.39

Select a dealer for prices & availability

BRCK-5030 Disc Brake Caliper Repair Kit Front - Includes 2 guide pins $26.13

Select a dealer for prices & availability

http://www.rockauto.com/

MOTORCRAFT Part # BRCL21RM {#F2TZ2V131ARM} Loaded - Pads Included

F Lt Caliper w/Pad [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 6 Remaining) $49.34

MOTORCRAFT Part # BRC21RM {#F2TZ2V121ARM, RMXU2J2C463FA} Un-loaded; Reman; Unloaded

Front Left

All remanufactured calipers from Motorcraft® start with the O.E. casting. They’re made of quality materials and undergo production-type testing.

All Motorcraft® remanufactured calipers receive new: • Seals

• Boots

• Phenolic pistons (where originally specified)

• Bleed screws and caps

• Slide pins and boots (where applicable)

Remanufactured calipers undergo the same testing methodology as O.E. calipers, which includes: • Seals tested for durability

• Boots tested for leaks

• Pistons tested for abrasion resistance

• Calipers tested for high and low pressure leaks

Hey Rog,

If the caliper was ok prior to new pads, now it's tight, I would think that pushing the piston back in the caliber housing, allowed some gunk to bid things. This gunk may have gotten in the flexible brake hose as well.

If your calipers are original, and badly pitted, or you have the composite pistons. I would put on the rebuilt calipers. 

Try this first, to eliminate the flexible hose being a problem:  Crack open the bleed ***** and see if the rotor turns easier. If it does you need a new hose, and the y should be changed on both side.

If there is no change in the rotor bind, go with the calipers.

Good Luck