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Pauliten02

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Sorry to keep bugging everyone. After replacing FPR and vac lines I found another loose wire. It goes to some sort of capacitor. Need to know name so I can order online at amazon. Please see attached pic.

Paul

image.jpg

 
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Pauliten02

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Looks to be a gray or white wire with green stripe. Here is a pic. Believe it was bolted to the side of the ignition coil.

 
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Pauliten02

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I won't bother replacing. After repairing vac lines and replacing FPR and 02 sensor I'm still having a hard time starting her on first and second attempt. She fires up and then I hear a loud **** of air through k&N air filter and she dies. If I give her gas to warm her up she idles but strong smell of exhaust out tail pipe. No black smoke. Was pulling codes 33 and 41. Since she isn't registered I haven't been able to take her on a cruise. I'm hoping driving will reset computers.

 

miesk5

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yo Paul,

Is the K&N filter clean and not over-oiled?

Quick test is to remove filter, wipe down filter housing dust & grime and in air inlet atop radiator (just the visible section) then try to start. Replace filter w/Purolator (makes them for Ford) paper element.

Is heater putting out hot air?  If not

  • Insufficient, Erratic, or No Heat
  • Low radiator coolant due to coolant leaks.
  • CHECK radiator cap pressure. REPLACE if below minimum pressure. FILL to specified coolant level. PRESSURE TEST for engine cooling system and heating system leaks. SERVICE as required.
 

 
  • Loose drive belt.
  • REPLACE drive belt if cracked or worn and ADJUST drive belt tension.
 
  • Thermostat.
  • FEEL heater water hoses. If the heater water hoses are too hot to hold, the thermostat is OK. If the heater water hoses do not get too hot to hold, REPLACE the thermostat. If only one heater water hose gets hot while the other remains cool, a plugged heater water hose or heater core is indicated.
 
  • Heater water hoses.
  • CHECK condition and routing of hoses


DTC 33 & 34 "...DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing.... To prevent the EGR valve from opening when the engine is cold, the vacuum line to the EGR valve may be connected to a parted vacuum switch or a computer-controlled solenoid. Vacuum is not allowed to pass to the valve until the engine is warm. EGR isn't needed when the engine is cold, only when it is warm and under load. Any of these codes could indicate a faulty EGR valve as well. as well as a problem in the ...vacuum solenoids' Miesk5 note; TAB & TAD; so repair those vac lines 1st..."

DTC 41, 42, 91, 92, 136, 137,139, 144, 171, 172, 173, 175, 176, 177 & some Possible Causes for Rich & Lean HEGO The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. To accomplish this, the engine should be at normal operating temperature
Source: by Ryan M

DTC 41, 42, 85 OR THREE DIGIT CODES 171, 172, 173, 179, 181, 182, 183 & 565 are received , Check for proper HEGO Ground; in Catalytic Converter Diagnosis TSB 91-12-11 for 86-91 Bronco, Econoline & F Series
Source: by Ford

LIGHT TRUCK: 1986-91 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES
1988-91 F SUPER DUTY, F47

ISSUE: Lack of power or a no start condition may be diagnosed as an exhaust restriction caused by a plugged catalytic converter. A plugged catalytic converter (internal deterioration) is usually caused by abnormal engine operation.

ACTION: Diagnose the catalytic converter to confirm internal failure. Refer to the Catalyst and Exhaust System Diagnostic Section, in the Engine/Emissions Diagnostic Shop Manual and the following procedures for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Lack of proper HEGO operation may cause, or be the result of a rich or lean fuel condition, which could cause additional heat in the catalyst. Perform self test KOEO and KOER, service any codes.
NOTE: IF TWO DIGIT CODES 41, 42, 85 OR THREE DIGIT CODES 171, 172, 173, 179, 181, 182, 183 AND 565 ARE RECIEVED, CHECK FOR PROPER HEGO GROUND.
If the HEGO ground is good, the following areas may be at fault:
* Ignition Coil
* Distributor Cap
* Distributor Rotor
* Fouled Spark Plug
* Spark Plug Wires
* Air Filter
* Stuck Open Injector
* Fuel Contamination Engine OIL
* Manifold Leaks Intake/Exhaust
* Fuel Pressure
* Poor Power Ground
* Engine Not At Normal Operating Temperature
* HEGO Sensor
2. Spark timing that is ******** from specification may increase exhaust gas temperature and shorten catalyst life. Refer to the following procedure for service details.
a. Check spark timing. Check base timing with spout disconnected. Set base timing to the specification on the vehicle emission decal.
b. Check computed timing with spout connected.
NOTE: COMPUTED TIMING IS EQUAL TO BASE TIMING PLUS 20° BTDC ± 3°.
3. Misfiring spark plugs may cause an unburned fuel air mixture to pass through the catalyst, which could cause higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Refer to the following procedure for service details. Check secondary ignition, hook the vehicle up to an engine analyzer and check for a secondary ignition misfire.
NOTE: SERVICE ANY ITEM THAT IS NOT PERFORMING AT PROPER SPECIFICATIONS BEFORE CONTINUING.
4. Fuel pressure that is too high may cause rich air fuel mixtures to pass through the catalyst which could cause higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Refer to the following procedure for service details.
a. Check fuel pressure, install fuel pressure gauge, start and run the engine at idle. Fuel pressures between 28 and 34 PSI are typical (4.9L typically is 15 PSI higher).
b. Disconnect the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure typically jumps to 40 PSI ± 3 PSI (4.9L typically is 15 PSI higher). Visually inspect vacuum line for raw fuel.
NOTE: FUEL PRESSURES ABOVE THESE VALUES SHOULD BE CORRECTED. HOWEVER, THIS MAY NOT BE THE CAUSE OF THE CONCERN. SERVICE AS NECESSARY.
5. Throttle plates in the throttle body not returning to the proper closed position may cause excessive catalyst temperatures during downhill grades. Refer to the following procedure for service details. Visually inspect the throttle body and linkage for:
* Binding or sticking throttle linkage.
* Tight speed control linkage or cable.
* Vacuum line interference.
* Electrical harness interference.
NOTE: AFTERMARKET GOVERNORS, THROTTLE LINKAGE AND CABLES ASSOCIATED WITH POWER TAKE-OFF UNITS, MAY ALSO INTERFERE WITH PROPER THROTTLE RETURN. SERVICE AS NECESSARY.
6. It is extremely important that all systems related to the engine and emission systems operate properly.
a. Visually inspect the engine compartment to make sure all vacuum hoses and spark plug wires are properly routed and securely connected.
b. Inspect all wiring harnesses and connectors for insulation damage, burned, overheated, loose or broken conditions.
c. Verify proper operation of the thermactor system. Thermactor systems that fail to dump thermactor air to the atmosphere properly or at the correct time can cause high catalyst temperatures.
d. Visually inspect thermactor system for damaged or kinked hoses and perform a function test on following components: air control valve, check valve, silencer, filter and the air bypass solenoid.
e. Verify proper operation of the engine cooling system thermostat.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Basic Warranty Coverage, Emissions Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
911211A Diagnostics - Perform KOEO And KOER Self Tests 0.5 Hrs.
911211B Timing - Check Or Adjust Spark Timing, Check Computed Timing And Check Secondary Ignition System With Engine Analyzer 0.5 Hrs.
911211C Check - Fuel Pressure And Inspect Vacuum Line For Raw Fuel 0.2 Hrs.
911211D Inspect - Throttle Body And Linkage 0.1 Hrs.
911211E Inspect - Vacuum Hoses, Electrical Harnesses, Connectors And Spark Plug Wires For Routing Damage 0.1 Hrs.
911211F Thermactor System - Inspect For Proper Operation And Damaged Component. Includes Function Check Of Air Control Valve, Thermactor Air Bypass Solenoid, Check Valves, Silencer And Filter 0.3 Hrs.
911211G Thermostat - Check For Proper Operation 0.2 Hrs.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another quick way to check a converter is to simply strike its case with a RUBBER mallet, or the side of your fist (if the cat is cool). If the substrate is shattered, there will be an obvious rattle.
 

 
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Pauliten02

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Previous owner capped off heater lines going into firewall. Air filter is new and properly oiled. I'll check out HEGO today. Just don't understand why there is a loud sucking noise right before it dies on cold start. After warmed up it isn't an issue. Also the CEL is not on. Hopefully after registering I can get her on the road to see if that helps computer adjust. Thanks again for all the help. I'll be back at it this afternoon. Once the temp dips below 100 degrees. It's hot in the desert.

 
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Pauliten02

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I'm out of ideas.  Everything checked out.  It's a brand new filter that came pre oiled.  Housing is clean.  Fixed vacuum leaks.  Found vaccuum line on fuel tank was broken.  Was albe to fix it.  Once she is warmed up, I can turn off and restart 5 minutes later without issue.  After I start and i am giving gas, sucks in air causing engine to miss.  Doesn't happen at higher RPM's.  Can anyone think of anything i am overlooking?

Paul

 

Rons beast

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Hey Paul,

Check out M5's post above re: using a vacuum gauge.  It would be good to know what the engine vacuum is doing when the engine is dying.

Sounds like a MAF sensor, but I would not run out and buy one just on a hunch.

Good Luck

 
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miesk5

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yo Paul,

My 2nd attempt with a reply this morning...

"sucks in air" -  guessing it is a vacuum leak?

when the engine is cold, the vacuum line to the EGR valve isconnected to a \ computer-controlled solenoid (EVP). Vacuum is not allowed to pass to the valve until the engine is warm. EGR isn't needed when the engine is cold, only when it is warm and under load. Any of these codes could indicate a faulty EGR valve as well. as well as a problem in the ...vacuum solenoid (EVR)

Check vac lines 1st

could be intake manifold gasket opening up to allow leak when eng is @ norm op temp.

 

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