Locking hubs/in diff lockouts

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MudCountry86

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Hey guys this may be a dumb question but do locking hubs do the same thing as if I were to get lockers for my diff internally?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo Mud,

No,

The hub locks on F-150, F-250, F-350 and Bronco 4x4 vehicles either automatically or manually actuate the front driving axle. When actuated, the hub lock body locks the hub and wheel and tire assembly to the half shaft. When released, the axle shaft is disengaged from the front disc brake hub and rotor and the wheel rotates freely on the front wheel spindle.

The limited slip Dana Traction-Lok® Model 44 IFS has a power flow identical to a conventional rear axle (4001), plus a more direct power flow which automatically takes effect as driving conditions demand. This more direct power flow is from the differential case (4204) to each axle shaft (4234) through differential clutch packs.

The limited slip differential (4026) is similar to a conventional differential, except part of the torque from the ring gear is transmitted through differential clutch packs between the differential side gears (4236) and differential case. The differential clutch packs are engaged by a preload from dished springs and separating forces from the differential side gears. This occurs as torque is applied through the ring gear.

A conventional differential transmits all of the ring rear torque through the differential side gears to the axle shafts. Torque is at all times equal on the axle shafts and if one wheel slips, the other wheel can only put out as much torque as the slipping wheel.

The limited slip differential has the same power flow as a conventional differential plus a more direct flow which automatically takes effect as driving conditions demand. This more direct flow is from the differential case to each axle shaft through a clutch plate and disc arrangement. Arrangement of these plates and discs is at the option of the vehicle manufacturer, so care should be taken during disassembly to note the arrangement of these components.

In diagnosis of vehicle operators' complaints, two things should be recognized:

  • If, with unequal traction, both wheels slip, the limited slip has done all it can possibly do.
  • In extreme cases of differences in traction, the wheel with the least traction may spin after the limited slip has transferred as much torque as possible to the non-slipping wheel.
--------

Differential, Traction-Lok Limited Slip, 8.8-Inch Ring Gear

The limited slip axle assembly is identical to the conventional rear axle (4001) except for the differential (4026).

The limited slip differential employs two sets of differential clutch packs (4947) to control differential action. The mounting distance of the differential side gear (4236) is controlled by seven plates on each side: four steel, three friction, and one steel rear axle differential clutch shim (4A324). This steel rear axle differential clutch shim is of the selective type to control the position of the differential side gear.

The plates are stacked on the side gear hub and are housed in the differential case (4204). Also located in the differential case, between the differential side gears, is a differential clutch spring (4214), which applies an initial force to the differential clutch pack. Additional clutch capacity is delivered from the ****** loads of the differential side gear. Splined plates are splined to the side gear hubs which, in turn, are splined to the axle shaft (4234). The friction plate ears are keyed to the case so the differential clutch packs are always engaged.

The pressure between differential clutch packs (4947) opposes differential action at all times. When the vehicle turns a corner, the differential clutch pack slips, allowing normal differential action to take place. Under adverse weather conditions, where one or both wheels may be on a low-traction surface such as snow, ice or mud, the friction between the clutch plates will transfer a portion of the usable torque to the wheel with the most traction. Thus, the wheel that is on ice or snow will have a tendency to operate with the opposite wheel in a combined driving effort.

CAUTION: Extended use of other than matching size spare tires on a Traction-Lok® rear axle (4001) could result in reduction in effectiveness (bias torque). This loss of effectiveness does not affect normal driving and should not be noticeable to the driver. However, extended usage will reduce the ability of the rear axle to provide added traction on slippery surfaces.

Axle, Integral Carrier, 8.8-Inch Ring Gear

The rear axle drive pinion receives its power from the engine (6007) through the transmission (7003) and driveshaft (4602). The pinion gear rotates the differential case (4204) through engagement with the ring gear, which is bolted to the differential case.

Inside the differential case, two differential pinion gears (4215) are mounted on the differential pinion shaft (4211), which is pinned with the differential pinion shaft lock pin (4241)) to the differential case. These differential pinion gears are engaged with the differential side gears (4236), to which the axle shafts (4234) are splined. Therefore, as the differential case turns, it rotates the axle shafts and rear wheels. When conditions require one wheel and axle shaft to rotate faster than the other, the faster turning differential side gear causes the differential pinion gear to roll on the slower turning differential side gear to allow differential action between the two axle shafts.

The rear axle (4001) is an integral type housing, hypoid gear design with the centerline of the pinion set below the centerline of the ring gear.

The hypoid gearset consists of an 8.8-inch diameter ring gear and an overhung drive pinion which is supported by two opposed cone and roller bearings. Pinion bearing preload is maintained by the differential drive pinion collapsible spacer (4662) on the drive pinion shaft and adjusted by the pinion nut.

The rear axle housing (4010) consists of a cast center section (carrier) with two steel tube assemblies and a stamped axle housing cover (4033). The axle housing cover uses silicone sealant as a gasket.

The differential case (4204) is a one-piece design with two openings to allow for assembly of the internal components and lubricant flow. The differential pinion shaft (4211) is retained with a threaded lock bolt assembled to the differential case. The differential case is mounted in the rear axle housing between two opposed differential bearings (4221) and is retained in the housing by removable bearing caps.

Differential bearing preload and ring gear backlash are adjusted by the use of shims located between the differential bearing cup (4222) and the rear axle housing.

The use of a pinion depth gauge tool for drive pinion shim selection in conjunction with a dial indicator for differential case shim selection is required for proper gearset adjustment.

The semi-floating axle shafts (4234) are held in the rear axle housing by u-washers (4N237) positioned in a slot on the axle shaft splined end. These u-washers also fit into a machined recess in the differential side gears (4236) within the differential case.

btw, No Q is considered other than a part of every-day life and the learning experience.

So, ask away!

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo,

Here are the Warn® Standard & Premium Hub Instructions & Diagrams

These instructions are what comes with the Warn hubs.
Source: by Warn® @ http://warn.iwebcat.com/imgVD/WAR/61420C0-pn20990.pdf

most signfiicant is; "OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS          

                                       
*ONLY use fingers to turn dials.  DO NOT USE PLIERS.  *Set the hublock dials to “FREE” and transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive.

*To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to “LOCK” and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low.

*Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks.

*Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel drive because it can cause drive train damage.

*Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between “FREE” and “LOCK” or it will damage the hublocks.

*Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage.

*Driving with the hublocks in ”FREE’’ and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage.

*To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly.
 

 
OP
OP
M

MudCountry86

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Thanks miesk5 one more question. I plan to take this bronco mudding and also drive on the road. It says not to be in four low with set to free. It also says not to take it on rough terrain in while engaged. Do I need to make changes to the axle in order to prevent drivetrain damage in a situation that I did take it mudding?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo Mud,

When Warn advised "Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel drive because it can cause drive train damage."  They mean not to drive on dry roads/streets; i.e. not snowy, icy, sandy, muddy, etc. 

This is by Ford for a 96;

 "When driving through water, determine the depth; avoid water higher than the bottom of the hubs (if possible) and proceed slowly. If the ignition system gets wet, the vehicle may stall.

After driving through mud, clean off residue stuck to rotating drive shafts and tires. Excess mud stuck on tires and rotating drive shafts causes an imbalance which could damage drive components.

NOTE: If the transmission and transfer case is submerged in water, their fluids should be checked and changed, if necessary."

Most off-roaders & mudders Install Vent Line Extensions for the Dana 44, 1356 transfer case, AOD transmission & 8.8; such as
by Bob K (nwbronco, Big Boy)  in an 86 at http://web.archive.org/web/20050115091125/http://www.2bbnorthwest.org/technical/vent_tubes/index.html

Some use small engine air filter such as;

Installation w/filters in an 89; Dana 44, 1356 transfer case, AOD transmission & 8.8
Source: by Alabronco at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/16068/63093

Here are some mudding tips;

add another washer fluid container or bag type unit 

carry extra fluids for trans, engine, xfer case, Dana 44, 5.8, ws washer, wheel bearing grease...and tools for servicing all

keep radiator & trans cooler clean

be prepared to remove and clean or replace starter

try to keep the bell housing empty

ensure the inspection plate is in place behind the engine oil pan

convert to dual electric fans and 3G alternator to run them and any lighting, etc.

check cowl drain tube behind passenger fender and drains in the doors & tailgate
Some  buy gallon cans of WD 40 and spray it underneath and around ignition plug wires & boots prior to mudding

Grab a distr. "boot" from a yard queen Mustang or buy one New;

80's 'stang Info & pic in a 92 5.8
dustboot.jpg

"Dust boot off of an 80's GT Mustang. Should help keep some water out of the distributor during water crossings."

Source: by Jeremy M (Big '92, jermil01)

$24.88 for 87-93 5.0

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-distributor-boot-7993.html

As Seabronc once wrote here; "You might try dielectric grease. Put in on the edge where the cap and body go together and on each plug boot, (both ends). You don't have to go crazy with it, just enough to seal. On the boots, put some on your little finger and just wipe it around the inside. When putting the boots back on the distributor they may have a tendency to hydraulically push back off especially if you put too much on. Just work them a little and they will stay on. Check them a couple of times to make sure they didn't push off. The seal causes them to trap air which compresses when you put them on."

Also;

Whenever an ignition coil to distributor high tension wiring is removed for any reason from a spark plug or distributor cap, or a new ignition coil to distributor high tension wiring is installed, Silicone Dielectric Compound (WA-10) D7AZ-19A331-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A must be applied to boot before it is reconnected.

Using a small clean tool, coat entire interior surface of boot with Silicone Dielectric Compound (WA-10) D7AZ-19A331-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A.

Ignition Coil;  Wipe coil tower with a clean cloth dampened with soap and water. Remove any soap film and dry with compressed air. Inspect for cracks, carbon tracking and dirt. 

I'd cover electrical connectors (ESP the EEC), Throttle Body, etc. w/saran wrap or suitable material; connector pin/terminal corrosion will drive you nuts .Remove saran wrap after drying area.

Waterproofing by Dean B at can4x4.com via web.archive

http://web.archive.org/web/20051130232607/http://www.can4x4.com/articles/ore01.html

excerpt, "The distributor can also become wet. If it does, simply remove the cap and spray WD-40 inside, which will disperse the water and evaporate quickly. Re-attach the cap and start"

 GL with fun!

 

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