I replaced the distributor in my 1992 ford bronco with a 5.8.Initially after I got it in,it started right up and i thought the timing was right and I'm pretty sure i got it in correctly but at take off I've got low end speed but upon acceleration say onto the highway after 40 mph it flattens out and slowly picks up speed and now it also seems like it takes the transmission to get out of first gear longer and I didn't have that problem before the other distributor that I pulled out that was screwed up. I don't quite remember if on the other distributor if I had the #1 spark plug wire right next to the clip or on the second spot from the clip.So, I'm guessing that I still have the timing off or something else has happened since I've replace the distributor.Any ideas where I should start? Oh also I has an electronic part from Caster which went from the tps to the other end where the tps switch would usually hook up at but I can't use that any longer because with it plugged in the rpm never drops below 2000 rpm. So,I've screwed up something.But,I'm pretty sure I have it right on 10 degrees before top dead center and I have the rpm at 900 when in park. So,could someone tell me where I screwed up at.I'm loosing my mind over this.I also didn't make any adjustment on the tps when I reinstalled it on the throttle body,I just re bolted it up.I can't remember if it is adjustable or not.I can't think lately because it been so hot and I had a heat stroke a couple of years ago and I don't think like i use to.Help!
distributor replacement
- Thread starter rogmit
- Start date
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yo R,
Try these test first please.
My MUCH Better-Half helps me a lot with Bronco work, from testing to installing items; esp helpful when doing some of the following tests. Last year, twice I could not remember her name due to an infection that coated a heart valve and late a mini-stroke. So I understand.
How to Set the timing on an EFI Ford by Ryan M
http://web.archive.org/web/20131229164125/http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=71
RYAN HS A PIC OF THE DISTR CAP W.#1 MARKED, on the second spot from the clip
caps locked PLAYS HAVOC WITH HUNT & PIC TYPING IN THE DARK!
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?&pid=74587&mode=threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
============
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Test
(Ford 5.0L, 5.8L)
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_tps_4.9L_5.0L_5.8L/bad_tps_test_1.php
Try these test first please.
My MUCH Better-Half helps me a lot with Bronco work, from testing to installing items; esp helpful when doing some of the following tests. Last year, twice I could not remember her name due to an infection that coated a heart valve and late a mini-stroke. So I understand.
How to Set the timing on an EFI Ford by Ryan M
http://web.archive.org/web/20131229164125/http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=71
RYAN HS A PIC OF THE DISTR CAP W.#1 MARKED, on the second spot from the clip
caps locked PLAYS HAVOC WITH HUNT & PIC TYPING IN THE DARK!
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?&pid=74587&mode=threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
============
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Test
(Ford 5.0L, 5.8L)
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_tps_4.9L_5.0L_5.8L/bad_tps_test_1.php
Yo ROG,
in case this is needed;
DistributorRemoval
by Ford
Throttle Position (TP) SensorRemoval
in case this is needed;
DistributorRemoval
- Align timing pointer with top dead center (TDC) on crankshaft vibration damper.
- Mark position of No. 1 cylinder wire tower on distributor base. Mark will provide an alignment reference when reinstalling the distributor (12127).
- On a 4.9L engine, loosen distributor cap hold-down screws. On all V-8 engines, disengage distributor cap hold-down clips.
- Lift distributor cap (12106) with attached wire set straight off distributor to prevent damage to rotor blade and spring. On V-8 engines, remove attaching screws and base adapter.
- Position distributor cap and attached wire set aside so as not to interfere with removal.
- Check if distributor rotor blade is pointing toward the marked position on the distributor base adapter (12A217). If distributor rotor blade is pointing one-half a revolution off, rotate crankshaft one full revolution and realign timing pointer with TDC on crankshaft vibration damper.
- Disconnect wiring harness at distributor.
- Remove distributor rotor (12200) by pulling upward on distributor rotor from distributor shaft.
- Remove distributor hold-down bolt and clamp.
- Remove distributor from cylinder block by pulling upward with a slight side-to-side twist.
- Cover distributor opening in cylinder block with a clean shop towel to prevent the entry of foreign material into engine.
- NOTE: When installing distributor, No. 1 piston must be at TDC of the compression stroke.
Visually inspect distributor. O-ring should fit tightly onto housing free of cuts. Drive gear should be free of nicks, cracks or excessive wear. The distributor shaft should rotate freely, without any binding.
- Lubricate distributor gear teeth with a coating of Engine Assembly Lubricant D9AZ-19579-D or equivalent fresh motor oil meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C80-A.
- Align locating boss and fully seat distributor rotor on distributor shaft.
- Rotate distributor shaft so that distributor rotor blade is pointing toward marked position on distributor base adapter.
- Install distributor into cylinder block with a slight side-to-side twist.
- NOTE: If the vane and vane switch assembly can not be kept on the leading edge after installation, remove the distributor from cylinder block by pulling upward enough for the distributor gear to disengage from the camshaft gear. Rotate distributor rotor enough so the gear will align on the next tooth of the camshaft gear.
Rotate distributor in engine to align leading edge of armature vane to vane switch assembly. Verify that distributor rotor blade is pointing toward marked position on distributor base adapter.
- Install distributor hold-down clamp and bolt.
- On all V-8 engines, position adapter base and install attaching screws.
- Position distributor cap with attached wire set straight on distributor to prevent damage to rotor blade and spring.
- On a 4.9L engine, tighten distributor cap hold-down screws to 2.0-2.6 Nm (18-23 lb-in). On all V-8 engines, secure distributor cap using spring clips.
- Connect distributor to wiring harness.
- Set initial timing according to procedures in Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual OBDI or OBDII.
- Without moving timing adjustment, tighten distributor hold-down bolt and clamp to 23-34 Nm (17-25 lb-ft).
by Ford
Throttle Position (TP) SensorRemoval
- Disconnect battery negative cable.
- On 5.0L and 5.8L engines, remove throttle body. Refer to Section 03-04B. On all other engines, go to Step 3.
- Disconnect throttle position sensor (TP sensor) (9B989) from wiring harness.
- If reusing TP sensor, scribe alignment marks to position when reinstalling.
- Remove two retaining screws.
- Remove throttle position sensor.
-
CAUTION: Slide rotary tangs into position over throttle shaft blade, then rotate throttle position sensor CLOCKWISE ONLY to installed position. Failure to install the throttle position sensor in this manner may result in excessive idle speeds on 5.0L and 5.8L.
On a 5.0L and 5.8L engine, position the throttle position sensor so that the pigtail points toward the idle air control valve (IAC valve) (9F715).
- NOTE: When throttle position sensor is installed on the throttle body (9E926), the connector will point toward the throttle body inlet on 4.9L and 7.5L only.
Secure throttle position sensor to throttle body with two retaining screws. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in) on 4.9L engines. On 5.0/5.8L, tighten to 1.2-1.8 Nm (11-16 lb-in).
- On 5.0L and 5.8L engines, install throttle body. Refer to Section 03-04B. On all other engines, proceed to Step 4.
- Connect electrical connector to harness.
- Reconnect battery negative cable.
Hey miesk5, thanks for the information.I never could get it to start going the ATC way.I screwed around with it all day and finally lined it back up with 10 degrees before BTC and got it to start but I noticed this time when I put the spout back in,the timing degree mark was in a different place.Could the timing chain possibly of jumped?This is killing me and I couldn't get hold of a friend of mine that is amechanic to help.My brain is fried for today.Can't think any longer.Tell me what you think
Seabronc
New member
The 10 deg set without the SPOUT connected is just the basic timing. Once you re attach the SPOUT connector, the computer determines where the setting will actually be based on all inputs from the engine sensors.
>-
>-Hi miesk5, my buddy got my timing issue straight but he pulled codes and the shift solenoid is having problems and the egr position solenoid is bad.Do you have any information on the transmission shift solenoid and if you can get it seperate because I was looking online and everybody seems to want to sell the whole body the solenoid sits in and they want close to $400. Let me know what you have.I'd appreciate it
Yo R,
I have not seen any E4OD solenoid sold separate from the entire pack. Buying the pack on-line for lowest price is iffy because of unknown quality.
Do you have the Code numbers?
Here are a few:
Shift Solenoids 1 and 2:
Shift solenoids 1 and 2 provide gear selection of first through fourth gears by controlling the pressure to the three shift valves.
Shift Solenoid 1:
Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
617**
618**
619**
621**
** = May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)
Shift Solenoid 2:
Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 617,** 618,** 619,** 622,* (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)
617 Transmission shift failure (1/2 shift) – Transmissions
618 Transmission shift failure (2/3 shift) – Transmissions
619 Transmission shift failure (3/4 shift) – Transmissions
621 Solenoid/circuit failure – shift solenoid 1 – Transmissions
622 Solenoid/circuit failure – shift solenoid 2 – Transmissions
This is by Ford for the E4OD in a 96; same for your 92;
After performing the Self Test for Codes, use the following Transmission Drive Cycle Test for checking E4OD continuous codes:
NOTE: The Transmission Drive Cycle Test must be followed exactly. Malfunctions have to occur four times consecutively for codes 617, 618, 619, and five times consecutively for continuous codes 628, 629.
Record and then erase Quick Test codes.
Warm engine to normal operating temperature.
Make sure transmission fluid level is correct.
With transmission in OVERDRIVE, moderately accelerate from stop to 80 km/h (50 mph). This allows the transmission to shift into 4th gear. Hold speed and throttle open steady for a minimum of 15 seconds.
With transmission in OVERDRIVE, press transmission control switch (TCIL should illuminate) and moderately accelerate from stop to 64 km/h (40 mph). This allows transmission to shift into 3rd gear. Hold speed and throttle opening steady for a minimum of 15 seconds (30 seconds above 4000 ft.).
Press TCS - this is the OD on-off switch at end of shifter stalk
(TCIL should turn off) and accelerate from 64 km/h (40 mph) to 80 km/h (50 mph). This allows transmission to shift into 4th gear. Hold speed and throttle position steady for a minimum of 15 seconds.
With transmission in 4th gear and maintaining steady speed and throttle opening, lightly apply and release brake pedal (2455) (to operate stop lamps). Then hold speed and throttle steady for an additional 5 seconds (minimum).
Brake to a stop and remain stopped for a minimum of 20 seconds.
Repeat Steps 4 through 8 at least five times.
Perform Quick Test and record continuous codes.
Main Control Valve Body
Clean all parts thoroughly in clean solvent and blow dry with moisture-free compressed air.
Inspect all valve and plunger bores for scores. Check all fluid passages for obstructions. Inspect all mating surfaces for burrs and scores.
Inspect all springs for distortion. Check all valves and plungers for free movement in their respective bores. Valves and plungers, when dry, must fall from their own weight in their respective bores.
Roll manual shift valve (7C389) on a flat surface to check for bent condition..."
======
328 (O,R,M) EGR Valve Position (EVP) is/was low – EVR
334 (O,R,M)EVP sensor is/was high – EVR
DTC 328 or 327 indicates the EGR valve was closed further than normal or EVP sensor or circuit has failed with an intermittent low voltage sometime during vehicle operation.
Possible causes:
Poor continuity in EVP harness or connectors.
Intermittent open or short in EVP sensor or harness.
Damaged EVP sensor.
DTC 334 EGR (EVP) closed valve voltage higher than expected; "...Failed sensor & as rla2005 (Randy) wrote; carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the ****** side of the EGR by mouth. the egr is not closing properly which can cause detonation. remove the egr and clean off any carbon built up on it with carb cleaner and a brush if necessary. The EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor used exclusively by Ford, can be the cause of driveability problems without ever setting any trouble codes. The relationship between the EVP sensor and the EGR valve is important to understand. Either one being out of spec can cause similar symptoms. Understanding this relationship will help you to diagnose un-coded driveability problems like stumbles, hesitations, rough idles and stalling..."
EVP Overview & Testing by Ryan M
https://web.archive.org/web/20120121075714/http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35
TOMCO uses R in test; such as "...While watching the ohmmeter, gradually and steadily apply vacuum to the EGR valve (not exceeding 10 PSI). The ohmmeter should show a steady decrease in the OHM reading. If the ohmmeter needle has any sharp movements or shows a slight increase while applying the vacuum, the sensor is bad. There is also a range that the OHM readings should fall between. In some cases this ranges from no higher than 5,500 OHMs, to no less than 100 OHMs. Check with your service manual for the exact specifications for your vehicle..."
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt19.pdf
Ask local parts store if they have a LOAN-a-Tool program (fully refundable deposit where you can "borrow" a hand-held vacuum pump w/gauge to test the EVP
I have not seen any E4OD solenoid sold separate from the entire pack. Buying the pack on-line for lowest price is iffy because of unknown quality.
Do you have the Code numbers?
Here are a few:
Shift Solenoids 1 and 2:
Shift solenoids 1 and 2 provide gear selection of first through fourth gears by controlling the pressure to the three shift valves.
Shift Solenoid 1:
Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
617**
618**
619**
621**
** = May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)
Shift Solenoid 2:
Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 617,** 618,** 619,** 622,* (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)
617 Transmission shift failure (1/2 shift) – Transmissions
618 Transmission shift failure (2/3 shift) – Transmissions
619 Transmission shift failure (3/4 shift) – Transmissions
621 Solenoid/circuit failure – shift solenoid 1 – Transmissions
622 Solenoid/circuit failure – shift solenoid 2 – Transmissions
This is by Ford for the E4OD in a 96; same for your 92;
After performing the Self Test for Codes, use the following Transmission Drive Cycle Test for checking E4OD continuous codes:
NOTE: The Transmission Drive Cycle Test must be followed exactly. Malfunctions have to occur four times consecutively for codes 617, 618, 619, and five times consecutively for continuous codes 628, 629.
Record and then erase Quick Test codes.
Warm engine to normal operating temperature.
Make sure transmission fluid level is correct.
With transmission in OVERDRIVE, moderately accelerate from stop to 80 km/h (50 mph). This allows the transmission to shift into 4th gear. Hold speed and throttle open steady for a minimum of 15 seconds.
With transmission in OVERDRIVE, press transmission control switch (TCIL should illuminate) and moderately accelerate from stop to 64 km/h (40 mph). This allows transmission to shift into 3rd gear. Hold speed and throttle opening steady for a minimum of 15 seconds (30 seconds above 4000 ft.).
Press TCS - this is the OD on-off switch at end of shifter stalk
(TCIL should turn off) and accelerate from 64 km/h (40 mph) to 80 km/h (50 mph). This allows transmission to shift into 4th gear. Hold speed and throttle position steady for a minimum of 15 seconds.
With transmission in 4th gear and maintaining steady speed and throttle opening, lightly apply and release brake pedal (2455) (to operate stop lamps). Then hold speed and throttle steady for an additional 5 seconds (minimum).
Brake to a stop and remain stopped for a minimum of 20 seconds.
Repeat Steps 4 through 8 at least five times.
Perform Quick Test and record continuous codes.
Main Control Valve Body
Clean all parts thoroughly in clean solvent and blow dry with moisture-free compressed air.
Inspect all valve and plunger bores for scores. Check all fluid passages for obstructions. Inspect all mating surfaces for burrs and scores.
Inspect all springs for distortion. Check all valves and plungers for free movement in their respective bores. Valves and plungers, when dry, must fall from their own weight in their respective bores.
Roll manual shift valve (7C389) on a flat surface to check for bent condition..."
======
328 (O,R,M) EGR Valve Position (EVP) is/was low – EVR
334 (O,R,M)EVP sensor is/was high – EVR
DTC 328 or 327 indicates the EGR valve was closed further than normal or EVP sensor or circuit has failed with an intermittent low voltage sometime during vehicle operation.
Possible causes:
Poor continuity in EVP harness or connectors.
Intermittent open or short in EVP sensor or harness.
Damaged EVP sensor.
DTC 334 EGR (EVP) closed valve voltage higher than expected; "...Failed sensor & as rla2005 (Randy) wrote; carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the ****** side of the EGR by mouth. the egr is not closing properly which can cause detonation. remove the egr and clean off any carbon built up on it with carb cleaner and a brush if necessary. The EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor used exclusively by Ford, can be the cause of driveability problems without ever setting any trouble codes. The relationship between the EVP sensor and the EGR valve is important to understand. Either one being out of spec can cause similar symptoms. Understanding this relationship will help you to diagnose un-coded driveability problems like stumbles, hesitations, rough idles and stalling..."
EVP Overview & Testing by Ryan M
https://web.archive.org/web/20120121075714/http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35
TOMCO uses R in test; such as "...While watching the ohmmeter, gradually and steadily apply vacuum to the EGR valve (not exceeding 10 PSI). The ohmmeter should show a steady decrease in the OHM reading. If the ohmmeter needle has any sharp movements or shows a slight increase while applying the vacuum, the sensor is bad. There is also a range that the OHM readings should fall between. In some cases this ranges from no higher than 5,500 OHMs, to no less than 100 OHMs. Check with your service manual for the exact specifications for your vehicle..."
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt19.pdf
Ask local parts store if they have a LOAN-a-Tool program (fully refundable deposit where you can "borrow" a hand-held vacuum pump w/gauge to test the EVP
Last edited by a moderator:
Yo R,
Check the Solenoid Pack Connector on the passenger side of the transmission. You'll need to remove a small heat shield (two bolts) next to the catalytic converter, and probably clean away a TON of gunk before yanking it. Ford wasn't too bright in designing the placement of this connector. The connector has a single press-in tab latching it in place
& Seating the connector by SigEpBlue
I just pulled an e4od out of a 92 and that connector is VERY easy to get to if you are willing to pull your carpet. There is a very convenient access panel in the center there and it makes reaching the top and sides of the tranny very easy..."
Source: by gunterelectric226
Ford advises; "Any time an electrical connector or solenoid body is disconnected, inspect the connector for terminal condition, corrosion and contamination. Also inspect the connector seal for damage. Clean, repair or replace as required.
Remove solenoid body assembly connector by pushing on the center tab and pulling on the wire harness."
Check the Solenoid Pack Connector on the passenger side of the transmission. You'll need to remove a small heat shield (two bolts) next to the catalytic converter, and probably clean away a TON of gunk before yanking it. Ford wasn't too bright in designing the placement of this connector. The connector has a single press-in tab latching it in place
& Seating the connector by SigEpBlue
I just pulled an e4od out of a 92 and that connector is VERY easy to get to if you are willing to pull your carpet. There is a very convenient access panel in the center there and it makes reaching the top and sides of the tranny very easy..."
Source: by gunterelectric226
Ford advises; "Any time an electrical connector or solenoid body is disconnected, inspect the connector for terminal condition, corrosion and contamination. Also inspect the connector seal for damage. Clean, repair or replace as required.
Remove solenoid body assembly connector by pushing on the center tab and pulling on the wire harness."
Attachments
Hey miesk5, you have been very helpful.I need a little more help.All these problems were vacuum related.I'm down to 2 last issues I think. One is vent doors are opening for heating and cooling and second I don't remember where the check valve on the passenger side of engine goes along with vacuum ventilation reservoir connect to.I'm thinking this is related somehow but I might be wrong. Tell me what you think.
yo R,
AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (irregular box glued to the evaporator cover)
Check Valve & Tank Location pic in a 93; "...valve is about a foot down the vacuum line coming off the 'tree' on the engine Plenum. One of the lines on the check valve tee goes to the built-in reservoir on the a/c box, the other into the loom with the white tube heading for the control panel inside ..." : by garymunson
AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (irregular box glued to the evaporator cover)
Check Valve & Tank Location pic in a 93; "...valve is about a foot down the vacuum line coming off the 'tree' on the engine Plenum. One of the lines on the check valve tee goes to the built-in reservoir on the a/c box, the other into the loom with the white tube heading for the control panel inside ..." : by garymunson
yo R,
I noticed that you are logged and watching this thread now, so I rushed my reply.
first, YW and glad to help!
Could have a vac leak at the valve or hose to valve. from intake manifold Tee to check valve, to tank, to interior Vac block
HVAC Diagram in a 95
http://broncozone.com/topic/23276-1996-bronco-ac-troubleshooting/
by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
The most common HVAC vac leak area is at vacuum hose to Outside Recirculate Door Vacuum Motor; on passenger side near firewall and hood hinge
pic by JohnMcD348 at http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e147/johnmcd348/Bronco%20Vacuum%20Fix/IMG_3429Small.jpg
Best bet is vac gauge that you can give us an idea of reading and steadiness of the needle.
Normal Engine Vacuum at Idle; 15-22 in-Hg in 96; similar to your year.
I noticed that you are logged and watching this thread now, so I rushed my reply.
first, YW and glad to help!
Could have a vac leak at the valve or hose to valve. from intake manifold Tee to check valve, to tank, to interior Vac block
HVAC Diagram in a 95
http://broncozone.com/topic/23276-1996-bronco-ac-troubleshooting/
by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
The most common HVAC vac leak area is at vacuum hose to Outside Recirculate Door Vacuum Motor; on passenger side near firewall and hood hinge
pic by JohnMcD348 at http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e147/johnmcd348/Bronco%20Vacuum%20Fix/IMG_3429Small.jpg
Best bet is vac gauge that you can give us an idea of reading and steadiness of the needle.
Normal Engine Vacuum at Idle; 15-22 in-Hg in 96; similar to your year.
Ok, I read what you posted miesk5 but what I'm still a little confused about is this.There is a white vacuum line coming out of a loom that is close to the Door Vacuum Motor.Does that go straight to the DVM or does the check valve tee go between the white vacuum line that goes back into the truck to controls and then you come off the check valve tee to the vacuum door motor or is there another white vacuum line that I'm missing?
yo R,
I believe that is one White line to Outside Recirculate Door Vacuum Motor; on passenger side near firewall and hood hinge as shown in Seabronc's diagram and John's pic
A clue;
"...The air handling system is designed to provide defrost when no vacuum is applied to any of the three air door vacuum motors. This is done to prevent a situation where defrost cannot be obtained due to a system vacuum leak. Instead, a leak in the vacuum control circuit will send all airflow to the defroster outlets. This condition may occur during acceleration (slow leak), may exist at all times (large leak) and may happen only when certain specific functions are selected, indicating a leak in that portion of the circuit..." by Ford
I believe that is one White line to Outside Recirculate Door Vacuum Motor; on passenger side near firewall and hood hinge as shown in Seabronc's diagram and John's pic
A clue;
"...The air handling system is designed to provide defrost when no vacuum is applied to any of the three air door vacuum motors. This is done to prevent a situation where defrost cannot be obtained due to a system vacuum leak. Instead, a leak in the vacuum control circuit will send all airflow to the defroster outlets. This condition may occur during acceleration (slow leak), may exist at all times (large leak) and may happen only when certain specific functions are selected, indicating a leak in that portion of the circuit..." by Ford
yo R,
No pic appeared;
If you have the pic saved on your pc/lap top, Click in "More Reply Options" @ bottom right;
screen refreshes
and
in lower left under "Attach Files" "Click Choose Files"
Max. single file size: is 45MB
Where is this motor?
No pic appeared;
If you have the pic saved on your pc/lap top, Click in "More Reply Options" @ bottom right;
screen refreshes
and
in lower left under "Attach Files" "Click Choose Files"
Max. single file size: is 45MB
Where is this motor?
Last edited by a moderator:
yo R,
Have to go now; will bbl, maybe or Monday.
Have to go now; will bbl, maybe or Monday.
Hi miesk5,I don't know what happened.Here they are.I want to get this last vacuum line right so that I can get these other codes that are stored right now erased and then see what it comes up with because I had erased the codes yesterday and then hooked up this vacuum line that I don't think it is right and then erase the codes again and dive it and see what codes it sets off.Correcting the other vacuum lines turned off the check engine but is still triggering codes but I want all vacuum lines fixed before I start trouble shooting other things.
yo R,
I can't figure out which vacuum line is in question.
I suppose it is in the HVAC system?
Or at Emission Vacuum tank?
Are your HVAC control panel controls working correctly?
"The following airflow diagrams illustrate the path airflow takes in response to each functional setting of the control ****. The position of the function control **** in the heater control determines which of the damper doors are open, partially open, or closed.
OFF
In the OFF position, the OUTSIDE AIR door is closed to block the entry of air from the cowl into the heater air plenum chamber (18471).
VENT
NOTE: The temperature door can be set to full cool, full warm or anywhere in between. The function control **** does not affect the temperature blend door; this is governed by the temperature control ****.
In the VENT position, the OUTSIDE AIR door is open and the PANEL/DEFROST door is open. The airflow is directed to the registers in the instrument panel (04320).
FLOOR
NOTE: The temperature door can be set to full cool, full warm or anywhere in between. The function control **** does not affect the temperature blend door; this is governed by the temperature control ****.
In the FLOOR position, the OUTSIDE AIR door is open. Airflow is directed through the TEMPERATURE BLEND door opening, through the heater core (18476), past the closed FLOOR/PANEL door and out through the open FLOOR/DEFROST door to the heater outlet floor duct (18C433). There is also an air bleed past the closed FLOOR/DEFROST door to the windshield defroster openings.
MIX
NOTE: The temperature door can be set to full cool, full warm or anywhere in between. The function control **** does not affect the temperature blend door; this is governed by the temperature control ****.
In the MIX position, the airflow follows the same path as described for FLOOR position, except the FLOOR/DEFROST door is in the mid-position with an equal amount of air flowing to the heater outlet floor duct and the windshield defroster nozzle.
DEFROST
NOTE: The temperature door can be set to full cool, full warm or anywhere in between. The function control **** does not affect the temperature blend door; this is governed by the temperature control ****.
In the DEFROST position, the FLOOR/DEFROST door is fully open to the windshield defroster hose nozzle (18490) with a bleed amount going past the closed door to the heater outlet floor duct.
see this @ control panel airflow diagrams at http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjc2007.htm
HVAC Vacuum System Diagram in a 95 by Seabronc
http://broncozone.com/topic/23276-1996-bronco-ac-troubleshooting/
I'll look at the pics again later.
I can't figure out which vacuum line is in question.
I suppose it is in the HVAC system?
Or at Emission Vacuum tank?
Are your HVAC control panel controls working correctly?
"The following airflow diagrams illustrate the path airflow takes in response to each functional setting of the control ****. The position of the function control **** in the heater control determines which of the damper doors are open, partially open, or closed.
OFF
In the OFF position, the OUTSIDE AIR door is closed to block the entry of air from the cowl into the heater air plenum chamber (18471).
VENT
NOTE: The temperature door can be set to full cool, full warm or anywhere in between. The function control **** does not affect the temperature blend door; this is governed by the temperature control ****.
In the VENT position, the OUTSIDE AIR door is open and the PANEL/DEFROST door is open. The airflow is directed to the registers in the instrument panel (04320).
FLOOR
NOTE: The temperature door can be set to full cool, full warm or anywhere in between. The function control **** does not affect the temperature blend door; this is governed by the temperature control ****.
In the FLOOR position, the OUTSIDE AIR door is open. Airflow is directed through the TEMPERATURE BLEND door opening, through the heater core (18476), past the closed FLOOR/PANEL door and out through the open FLOOR/DEFROST door to the heater outlet floor duct (18C433). There is also an air bleed past the closed FLOOR/DEFROST door to the windshield defroster openings.
MIX
NOTE: The temperature door can be set to full cool, full warm or anywhere in between. The function control **** does not affect the temperature blend door; this is governed by the temperature control ****.
In the MIX position, the airflow follows the same path as described for FLOOR position, except the FLOOR/DEFROST door is in the mid-position with an equal amount of air flowing to the heater outlet floor duct and the windshield defroster nozzle.
DEFROST
NOTE: The temperature door can be set to full cool, full warm or anywhere in between. The function control **** does not affect the temperature blend door; this is governed by the temperature control ****.
In the DEFROST position, the FLOOR/DEFROST door is fully open to the windshield defroster hose nozzle (18490) with a bleed amount going past the closed door to the heater outlet floor duct.
see this @ control panel airflow diagrams at http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjc2007.htm
HVAC Vacuum System Diagram in a 95 by Seabronc
http://broncozone.com/topic/23276-1996-bronco-ac-troubleshooting/
I'll look at the pics again later.
Hi miesk5,I figured out the vacuum line problem,I went down to a local salvage yard and looked at some trucks while I was getting a steering column.I didn't see the black vacuum line next to the white one.Well,I'm glad that's over with. Thanks for all your help.Now I've got 2 codes left to deal with now. One is a 622 having do with the shift solenoid circuit and a 452 code which says it has to do with the speed sensor.I'm guessing that the speed sensor is the one on the transmission. Do you have any information on troubleshooting these 2 codes? I'm trying to get my truck together because I'm trying to get my truck running because I may be going to work for the railroad.
