Yo R,
I have not seen any E4OD solenoid sold separate from the entire pack. Buying the pack on-line for lowest price is iffy because of unknown quality.
Do you have the Code numbers?
Here are a few:
Shift Solenoids 1 and 2:
Shift solenoids 1 and 2 provide gear selection of first through fourth gears by controlling the pressure to the three shift valves.
Shift Solenoid 1:
Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
617**
618**
619**
621**
** =
May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)
Shift Solenoid 2:
Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 617,** 618,** 619,** 622,* (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical conditions. **
May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)
617 Transmission shift failure (1/2 shift) – Transmissions
618 Transmission shift failure (2/3 shift) – Transmissions
619 Transmission shift failure (3/4 shift) – Transmissions
621 Solenoid/circuit failure – shift solenoid 1 – Transmissions
622 Solenoid/circuit failure – shift solenoid 2 – Transmissions
This is by Ford for the E4OD in a 96; same for your 92;
After performing the Self Test for Codes, use the following Transmission Drive Cycle Test for checking E4OD continuous codes:
NOTE: The Transmission Drive Cycle Test must be followed exactly. Malfunctions have to occur four times consecutively for codes 617, 618, 619, and five times consecutively for continuous codes 628, 629.
Record and then erase Quick Test codes.
Warm engine to normal operating temperature.
Make sure transmission fluid level is correct.
With transmission in OVERDRIVE, moderately accelerate from stop to 80 km/h (50 mph). This allows the transmission to shift into 4th gear. Hold speed and throttle open steady for a minimum of 15 seconds.
With transmission in OVERDRIVE, press transmission control switch (TCIL should illuminate) and moderately accelerate from stop to 64 km/h (40 mph). This allows transmission to shift into 3rd gear. Hold speed and throttle opening steady for a minimum of 15 seconds (30 seconds above 4000 ft.).
Press TCS - this is the OD on-off switch at end of shifter stalk
(TCIL should turn off) and accelerate from 64 km/h (40 mph) to 80 km/h (50 mph). This allows transmission to shift into 4th gear. Hold speed and throttle position steady for a minimum of 15 seconds.
With transmission in 4th gear and maintaining steady speed and throttle opening, lightly apply and release brake pedal (2455) (to operate stop lamps). Then hold speed and throttle steady for an additional 5 seconds (minimum).
Brake to a stop and remain stopped for a minimum of 20 seconds.
Repeat Steps 4 through 8 at least five times.
Perform Quick Test and record continuous codes.
Main Control Valve Body
Clean all parts thoroughly in clean solvent and blow dry with moisture-free compressed air.
Inspect all valve and plunger bores for scores. Check all fluid passages for obstructions. Inspect all mating surfaces for burrs and scores.
Inspect all springs for distortion. Check all valves and plungers for free movement in their respective bores. Valves and plungers, when dry, must fall from their own weight in their respective bores.
Roll manual shift valve (7C389) on a flat surface to check for bent condition..."
======
328 (O,R,M) EGR Valve Position (EVP) is/was low – EVR
334 (O,R,M)EVP sensor is/was high – EVR
DTC
328 or 327 indicates the EGR valve was closed further than normal or EVP sensor or circuit has failed with an intermittent low voltage sometime during vehicle operation.
Possible causes:
Poor continuity in EVP harness or connectors.
Intermittent open or short in EVP sensor or harness.
Damaged EVP sensor.
DTC 334 EGR (EVP) closed valve voltage higher than expected; "...Failed sensor & as rla2005 (Randy) wrote; carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the ****** side of the EGR by mouth. the egr is not closing properly which can cause detonation. remove the egr and clean off any carbon built up on it with carb cleaner and a brush if necessary. The EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor used exclusively by Ford, can be the cause of driveability problems without ever setting any trouble codes. The relationship between the EVP sensor and the EGR valve is important to understand. Either one being out of spec can cause similar symptoms. Understanding this relationship will help you to diagnose un-coded driveability problems like stumbles, hesitations, rough idles and stalling..."
EVP Overview & Testing by Ryan M
https://web.archive.org/web/20120121075714/http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35
TOMCO uses R in test; such as "...While watching the ohmmeter, gradually and steadily apply vacuum to the EGR valve (not exceeding 10 PSI). The ohmmeter should show a steady decrease in the OHM reading. If the ohmmeter needle has any sharp movements or shows a slight increase while applying the vacuum, the sensor is bad. There is also a range that the OHM readings should fall between. In some cases this ranges from no higher than 5,500 OHMs, to no less than 100 OHMs. Check with your service manual for the exact specifications for your vehicle..."
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt19.pdf
Ask local parts store if they have a LOAN-a-Tool program (fully refundable deposit where you can "borrow" a hand-held vacuum pump w/gauge to test the EVP