Intake leaking antifreeze

Here is a couple of pictures and it doesn't look right to me on the inside.The truck is actually running quite well even though it was leaking antifreeze.Any ideas

What clued you in on that you had a leak?  Based on the limited view of the intake, it looks like a problem with the upper water jacket, perhaps a crack.

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Seabronc, it had a puttle under the truck back by the engine where the transmission connects and it also had a bolt missing at the back of the intake where I'm guessing that is where my ticking sound was coming from.I was told by the guy that rebuilt the engine to use the grey sealer at the back and front of the intake instead of using the cork seals unless you can tell me something different.

yo R.

Is this the 92?

This is by Ford;

Leakage at the valve cover may allow engine oil to flow over the converter housing or seep down between the converter housing and block causing oil to be present in or at the bottom of the converter housing.
Oil plug leaks will allow oil to flow down the rear face of the block to the converter housing.
Leakage at the crankshaft seal will work back to the flywheel, and then into the converter housing.

Examine oil dipstick as well as filler cap for evidence of engine oil contaminated with coolant — a brownish-milky appearance
 

I don't believe the ticking sound has anything to do with the coolant leak.  A ticking sound could be any one of several things, a loose arching spark plug or wire, a cracked or loose exhaust manifold, a valve or lifter, etc. You can use the old mechanics trick of using a short piece of garden hose, hold one end to your ear and move the other end around the engine until you locate the source of the noise.  

As far as the leak goes, have you checked the intake bolts to make sure they are snugged to proper torque specifications?  Did you replace the missing bolt?  Did you check the hose connections for the antifreeze lines? 

The antifreeze inside the intake could mean an internal crack in the water jacket, or that the seal is not working, or the bolts aren't torqued properly and/or in the proper order. 

It is not possible to make a more accurate guess based on the information and pictures provided.  You need to spend more time locating the source of the leak.

Good luck,

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When i put this engine back together about 6-7 years ago,the engine rebuilder told me to use grey rtv for the front and rear of the intake instead of using the cork seals that he gave me to finish putting the motor together.But if you don't think that the intake was the ticking sound because the seal at the rear was partially gone.   i know I torqed all the bolts down but they came out pretty easy.Then maybe I should go ahead and pull the heads and replace head gaskets that I've had for about 5 years and another set of lifters that my brother-in-law got me for free because he works for a company named Power Seal or something like that.But, if I pull the heads then i have to replace the head bolts right because there edelbrock heads.The only oil leak that I've seen is a tiny spot on passenger side rear but when I've sprayed carburetor cleaner on it,it doesn't raise the rpm.Let me know what you think before I tear into it any further what you think about the ticking sound.I've srayed the exhaust with carbuetor cleaner at every connection and it never raised the rpm and I took it to the exhaust shop that did the exhaust and they didn't find a leak.I don't want to do do anymore work than I have to.

Hey Ro,

Pull the spark plugs and look at them.  See if any one or 2 next to each other have somewhat heavy white deposits that would indicate antifreeze leaking from a head gasket.  If you do when the engine is shut off the coolant pressure will cause the antifreeze to seep into the cylinders .  Your oil will also look milky.  If you don't have these indicators it is unlikely that you have a head gasket problem.

Also, spraying carb cleaner on leaks will raise the RPM only if it is a vacuum leak. That doesn't work on oil, exhaust, or other leaks.

For the ticking, buy a cheep mechanics stethoscope. Most auto parts  stores have them.  They make tracing odd sounds much easier. I even found a leaking waterline 18" underground with mine.

Good Luck

I have tried the hose trick but the intake is off right now because it was leaking at the back of intake manifold,i didn't hear any ticking from the valve covers when I did it.So, I'll check the spark plugs tomorrow.I got to find out where this thing is ticking from before I put the intake back on.I guess if I don;t find anything wrong with the plugs ,I'll pull the headers off and see if it could be leaking from them.Do check valves go bacd and cause a ticking sound?I hope I don't find anything wrong with the plugs because I'd rather not do more work than I need to.I guess there isn't any way to physically see if a lifter is bad is there?I'll keep checking everyones ideas but I'm running out of things to check and still can't find this ticking sound.Hopefully,it won't be raining tomorrow and I can get back into this and check things out.But,there definitely wasn't any antifreeze in the oil before I pulled the intake.Who knows.Keep those troubleshooting ideas coming and I'll check them out.

the hose is good but the stethoscope is far better.  Your best bet is put your intake back together with proper sealing. Get the truck running and get a stethoscope to find the tick..

Well,plugs are burning clean and found 1 sprark plug wire kind of charred at one end but I know I won't have to pull heads at least,

A charred wire by the exhaust could be a source of the tic you hear as the secondary voltage arcs to ground on the manifold or head.

Good news on your plugs. With the other info you provided, I would say you are good not having to pull the heads.

Good Luck

here are some pictures since I've got headers off .What do you think?Could this cause the ticking problem I'm hearing?        

first pic bottom gasket is looking like it has been leaking for a while. could be the ticking you were hearing.

It's difficult to diagnose a "tic' from a pic....but it does look like there has been a leak.  That could be your "ticking" or not....either way I would replace the gaskets and check the flanges for being true. 

How do I check the flanges for being true

The best way to check flanges is to place them on a known flat straight surface with a light source behind one side of the ******. Look for light seepage on the other side of the ******.

This would need the headers to be off the vehicle.  If they are just unbolted from the head, you can get a known straight metal bar or stock and place it against the head side of the ******. look for any dips, twists, or bends. If you find any the headers need to be removed and "worked"  ( heat, hammer , grind , file.)  to be made straight.  In extreme cases I have known guys that had to take them to machine shops, but this is only an option for products that have thick enough flanges.   Sometimes the cost isn't worth the effort and new headers are in order,...but that is, as I said, extreme.

If you just have a "tic", that is from the header, a little work and new gaskets , and bolts could be the answer.

Good Luck

HELLO ANYONE AND EVERYONE.I'VE GOT A QUESTION RELATED TO THIS INTAKE LEAKING AND IT POSSIBLY BEING THE TICKING THAT I WAS HAVING PROBLEMS WITH EARLIER IN THE YEAR.SO, THE HEADERS WERE DEFINITELY LEAKING AND SO WERE THE EXHAUST PORTS ON THE INTAKE BECAUSE OF THE BLACK MARKINGS ON GASKET AND INTAKE.SUPREME COMMANDER RECOMMENDED CHECKING THE TRUENESS OF THE HEADERS WHICH I STILL NEED TO DO BUT I WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE WOULD THINK IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO PULL ROCKERS AND GO AHEAD AND CHECK LIFTERS.NOW I MIGHT NOT BE THINKING REAL STRAIGHT BECAUSE I'VE ONLY HAD ABOUT 2 HOURS OF SLEEP IN THE PAST 36 HOURS. I BECAME A GRANDFATHER THIS MORNING AND I TOOK SEVERAL 250MG OF A PILL WHICH IS FOR AADD CALLED NUVIGIL.BUT ALSO MAKES ME MORE ALERT BUT THE DOWNSIDE IT KEEPS YOU AWAKE.BUT,I JUST DON'T WANT TO THROW THIS UPPER END OF THE MOTOR BACK TOGETHER IF THERE IS EVEN THE SLIGHTEST CHANCE OF HAVING A BAD LIFTER.I JUST WANT SOME FEEDBACK IF ANYONE THINKS THIS WOULD BE A WASTE OF TIME TO PULL LIFTERS AND LOOK AT THEMSINCE THE INTAKE IS OFF ANYWAY.HELP!!!

Congrats Grand Dad   

 THE HEADERS WERE DEFINITELY LEAKING AND SO WERE THE EXHAUST PORTS ON THE INTAKE BECAUSE OF THE BLACK MARKINGS ON GASKET AND INTAKE

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Headers bolt to the HEAD. The intake bolts to the opposite side of the head on top so to speak. Intakes dont have exhaust ports  FYI.

In your case I would suggest a good intake gasket set and a quality set of headder gaskets, put it all back together nice and tight change the oil and filter fill the cooling system and ride. IF the TIC is still there investigate check diagnose find out what the culprite is before disassembly even if it means taking the truck to a shop or a more experienced gear head. Once the problem is determined and its known what needs to be replaced.

We all want to help as effectively as we can but when it comes to a tic a knock a squeek pictures help but in the end we are all doing the same thing...Guessing. An experienced ear most of the time can quickly identify the sound difference between a lifter/ valve train noise, a knock, piston slap, etc( all inside the engine)  and an exhaust leak or any other noise originating from outside the engine. If it were my truck I would put her together and see what I hear. but its YOUR truck so you do what you want post whats going on and we will try to help where we can.

Hey Rog,  Congrats to you as well.

here's my take:  With the valve covers off, check to see if any rockers have anything more than very minimal play when moved with your fingers.  None found would indicate to me that the lifters and rockers had a very good chance of being in fine shape.  ( If a lifter was collapsed, or leaking very bad, your would have an engine miss. You didn't indicate this.)

I would then do as Elmo advised....and go enjoy your grandchild!

Good Luck and Congrats again.