1996 wire attach to lock cylinder?

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ncat12

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the bronco would try to start but just would not turnover, changed the ignition switch and same thing , while looking around notice a very loose wire that was running to the cylinder, it 'got' disconnected from the cylinder , wire is brown and is bent to fit snug, when contact is made the bronco makes the key in ignition ding ,without key in ...about to replace lock cylinder and wondering do I need to cut the brown wire and replace if so anyone know what name to put with ,..thanks for any and all help

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo N,

WELCOME!

In this diagram, Brown wire is for Headlamps on with the key in the ignition switch lock cylinder

I believe you can terminate it, but chime won't ding,  My eyesight is off a bit again, so maybe someone else can help you with the diagrams.
 
The warning chime/buzzer sounds when the headlamp switch (11654) is in PARK or HEAD and the driver's door is open, and continues to sound until the headlamp switch is moved to OFF or the door is closed. When the headlamp switch is in PARK or HEAD, power is supplied through Circuit 14 (BR) to the module. When the driver's door is open, the driver's door lamp switch (13713) is closed and power is supplied to the module through Circuit 159 (R/PK).
 
here is the 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WSTJ/~MUS~LEN/21/STJLEFT.HTM
 
Section 13-09: Gauges/Warning Devices, Chime/Buzzer System
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
Procedure revision date: 05/18/200
Key-in-Ignition Warning

The warning chime/buzzer sounds when the driver's door is open with the key in the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582), and continues to sound until the key is removed or the door is closed. When the key is in the ignition switch lock cylinder, the key-in-ignition switch is closed and ground is supplied to the warning chime/buzzer module through Circuit 158 (BK/PK). When the driver's door is open, the driver's door lamp switch (13713) is closed and power is supplied to the module through Circuit 159 (R/PK).

==========================

Warning Chime/Buzzer System


K18718D.gif


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PINPOINT TEST C: KEY-IN-IGNITION WARNING Inoperativehttps://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WSTJ/~MUS~LEN/21/STJD9008.HTM
C1 CHECK KEY-IN-IGNITION INPUT
  • Open driver door.
  • Using a jumper wire connected to a known good ground, connect other end of jumper to Pin 4, Circuit 158 (BK/PK) at warning chime/buzzer module connector.
Does warning chime/buzzer module sound?
Yes No GO to C2 . GO to C3 .  

C2 CHECK CIRCUIT 158 (BK/PK) FOR OPEN
  • Disconnect warning chime/buzzer module.
  • Disconnect key-in-ignition switch at steering column.
  • Using an ohmmeter, connect one lead to Pin 4, Circuit 158 (BK/PK) at warning chime/buzzer module connector. Connect second lead to Circuit 158 (BK/PK) at key-in-ignition switch connector.
  • Check for continuity.
Is continuity present?
Yes No REPLACE key-in-ignition switch. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system. SERVICE Circuit 158 (BK/PK) for open. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.  

 

11-05: Steering Column Switches
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Procedure revision date: 05/18/2000
Electrical Schematics Ignition Switch
K23013C.gif


============

 
Ignition Switch Continuity Test

NOTE: For an engine-won't-crank condition with an automatic transmission (7003), determine if the condition exists with the shift control selector level in both PARK and NEUTRAL positions before performing the ignition switch continuity tests. If the no-crank condition occurs in one shift lever position but not the other, a more probable cause is the neutral start switch located in the transmission.

Disconnect ignition key warning switch terminal and wire from the ignition switch (11572). Test the continuity of the ignition switch as described in the following illustrations. Connect a self-powered test lamp or ohmmeter between the blade terminals indicated on the chart. No continuity between any blade and chassis ground should exist in any ignition switch position except the proof Circuit 41 (BK/LB) (Pin P1) and Circuit 512 (T/LG) (Pin P2) in the START position only.

Ignition Switch, F-Series and Bronco


K14670B.gif


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ncat12

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Mr.Miesk5...man thank you first for the welcome and second for your response and of course third for your abundance of knowledge, I have had this bad boy since 2000 and my DAD before that bought it used in 97 , someone passed up on a **** of a truck, this is the first real problems I have had , and not the most mechanically incline person every bit of info I get is very much appreciated so thank you...I am not to great in understanding diagrams , although I do remember reading that if the radio is acting up and having troubles starting that these were syptoms of the ignition switch...does that sound to you feasible? .I am replacing the ignition cylinder tomorrow, mainly because when pulling it out a tumbler came out...if I don't mind not hearing the chime do I need to worry about the wire?

 
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ncat12

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BTW as with our f150 work truck you can start it without the key sometimes..( the wife's mother had the truck for 4yrs ,I just got it back this past august, Long story, she lives about 180 miles away in PA and I found out it had been sitting is when I brought her home ) so that is def. one of the reasons of replacement and if it fixes the situation even better ..if you can think of anything else it might be PLEASE advise.. again it would try to start sounding like it was out of gas (def. not) just would not turnover ,...so far just changed the ignition switch and had the same results , then I went to the ignition cylinder , removed it but have not had the opportunity to get to the store.( 1 vehicle 1 wife that works  and 3 kids that had been off this week)......so if ya can Please help...THANKS  nick C..ncat12

 

miesk5

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yo Nick,

YW!

The brown wire is for Headlamps on with the key in the ignition switch lock cylinder & it carries Battery Voltage (12 volts DC +); so see if you can terminate it and insulate it it and insulate it.  Now that I can better

there is no Brown wire in the lock cylinder area for Key-in-Ignition Warning

Key-in-Ignition Warning; The warning chime/buzzer sounds when the driver's door is open with the key in the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582), and continues to sound until the key is removed or the door is closed. When the key is in the ignition switch lock cylinder, the key-in-ignition switch is closed and ground is supplied to the warning chime/buzzer module through Circuit 158 (BK/PK). When the driver's door is open, the driver's door lamp switch (13713) is closed and power is supplied to the module through Circuit 159 (R/PK). 

Please check the color of the wire again. 

Can you test the driver's door lamp switch to see if it electrically closed all the time>

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Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder, see;

Section 11-04: Steering Column
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
Removal

  1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).
  1. Turn lock cylinder key to RUN position.
  1. Place a 3.17mm (1/8-inch) diameter wire pin or small drift punch in hole in steering column shroud (3530) under ignition switch lock cylinder (11582). Depress retaining pin while pulling out on ignition switch lock cylinder to remove it from housing of steering column.
Installation

  1. Install ignition switch lock cylinder by turning it to RUN position and depressing retaining pin. Insert ignition switch lock cylinder into steering column housing. Make sure ignition switch lock cylinder is fully seated and aligned in interlocking washer before turning key to OFF position. This will permit retaining pin of ignition switch lock cylinder to extend into hole of steering column.
  1. Rotate ignition switch lock cylinder, using key, to make sure of correct mechanical operation in all positions.
  1. NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more for the powertrain control module to relearn the strategy.

    Connect battery ground cable
----- 

Next is to Do the Ignition Switch Continuity Test.

---

For Starter Cranks, but will Engine will not start & run;

Here is a very good article;

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1

on page 2, select Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module for your 96

Again on page 2;

Make a spark tester for that test;

W/ an old spark plug and cut off the L-shaped tip,& clean up the center electrode and surrounding metal with a bit of sandpaper
Drill a small hole in the thickest part of the metal (where the wrench goes on). Use a metal ***** to attach a length of wire, a couple of feet, to the body of the spark plug. To the other end of the wire, solder or otherwise attach a big alligator clip.

Since the tip is cut off, the spark will have to be stronger to jump the wider gap. It is harder for a spark to form in a compressed cylinder so it more accurately represents the spark performance under running conditions. With the engine off, remove the spark plug wire you wish to test from the spark plug. Attach the spark tester to the plug wire and connect the alligator clip to a good ground. Remember that the coil output can give you a very nasty shock, so make sure to wear thick gloves or use a rag to hold the tester, and not to touch the body of the car when the system is energized. Hold the tester away from the car body and use your remote starter switch or have an assistant start the car (or simply turn it over). You should get a healthy bluish white spark from the center post to the side of the spark tester.
 

This may be too much to deal with now, but this is what a mechanic will do.

 
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