96 5.8 Bronco, Help!

I'm new here but have been using this site as a resource and decided to join. What I have is ghost in my book. I can crank her, but she won't start. I have plenty spark. List of new parts to try to fix this issue...

New computer, mass air flow, fuel pressure relay, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, coil, cap, button, plugs, wires, icm. I feel like I have done more than this but cant remember.

Situation... When she starts she runs great. She has a code for an O2 sensor, bank 1 sensor 2. Every time I put a new part on it seems to run fine for a week then stop again. I hear my fuel pump come on and have tried bypassing the inertia switch. But when she cranks, I hear my fuel pump whine then I hear something under the hood whine? If I don't hear it under the hood I get nothing. And even then if it cranks, it's possible she will die on me. please help!

Welcome to the Zone > /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /><

OK, having wierd problems often traces back to bad grounding.  You will need a digital volt meter.  Scrape a good clean spot on the engine block, then measure between the engine block and the negative terminal of the battery.  A voltage reading there will indicate the ground between the battery and engine block is not good.  You can also do the same from a good clean spot on the frame. 

No matter what the result from the above, remove and clean the connections between the battery and engine block and frame.  While you have them off, check the ends where the cables are attached to the lugs.  If there is any corrosion where the wires go into the lugs, replace the cable.  With a good piece of emory cloth clean the lugs and the surface where they make contact.  Also there is or should be a ground strap between the rear of the intake and the fire wall.  Do the same there. 

If there is any corrosion, it usually gets freaky, sometimes they make connection and sometimes they don't or they make very poor connections.

Good luck,

>-

yo J,

WELCOME!
As SEABRONC advised;

GROUND Locations & Components in a 96; G101 front of engine compartment, front of fender apron (D1) - RH = Passenger side mine has 2 small black wires between starter relay & headlight; this is #5 in the diagram; G100 & G104 (tied together in diagram); G100 @ LH front of engine compartment on upper radiator support; G104 @ Rear of LH fender apron near hood hinge and 4WABS Test Connector (RED); G100 Serves Component, LH Oxygen Sensor, Fuel Pump Module, Inertia Fuel Shutoff, Misfire Sensor, Misfire Sensor Shield, Output Shaft Speed (OSS) Sensor, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.0L; G101 Serves, RH Oxygen Sensor; G104 Serves Component: 4WABS Control Module, 4WABS Data Link Connector, 4WABS Relay #1, Instrument Cluster, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.8L, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.8L, Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM), Trailer Relay Box; G103 (battery to engine) Lower RH front of engine serves Component, 4WABS Pump Motor, Battery, Data Link Connector (DLC), Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.0L, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.8L, Right Front Park/Turn Lamp, Right Front Side Marker Lamp Right Headlamp; G201 Behind bottom of LH cowl panel (driver's side kick panel) Component, Compass/Outside Temperature Module, Day/Night Mirror, Inside Cargo Lamp, Left Power Lumbar Compressor Motor, Outside Cargo/High Mount Stop Lamps, Right Power Lumbar Compressor Motor, Seat Belt Switch, Door Lock Actuator (PDL & Probably Power Window Motor); G200 Behind bottom of RH cowl panel serves Component, Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor, Electronic Shift Control Module, Instrument Cluster, Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM), Remote/Keyless Entry Module, Speed Control Servo/Amplifier Assembly; G103 (battery to engine) Lower RH front of engine serves Component, 4WABS Pump Motor, Battery, Data Link Connector (DLC), Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.0L, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.8L, Right Front Park/Turn Lamp, Right Front Side Marker Lamp, Right Headlamp; G400 Rear Window Defroster @ LH rear corner of cargo area, near rear lamp assembly; Engine Block pic in a 94 5.8; "...The black battery wire goes from the front bolt of the engine mount (on the block) to this tab & up to the battery post, where a smaller black wire goes to the core support, providing a continuous ground path between the engine, frame, battery, & body; Frame & Battery pic in a 93; "...With the wheelwell gone, it's easy to inspect the frame ground, just inboard of the spring tower on top of the frame rail. The battery ground cable is stripped ~3/4" and a tab is soldered on so it can be bolted to the frame; Intake Manifold to Block Strap Location in a 96 5.0 is between 2nd & 3rd plugs on passenger side; SEE DIAGRAMS
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

See this at http://broncozone.com/topic/20952-loose-ground/page__pid__109954__st__0&?do=findComment&comment=109954

includes pics.
 

yo J;

This is for a 94, but has similar causes for No Start/Normal Crank

1994 PCED OBDI-A by Ford
SECTION 7A: EEC-IV Intermittent Fault Diagnosis
Symptom Charts — Chart 1
 

STARTING CONCERNS System Possible Causes Visual/Mechanical EEC Fuel

• Check fuel pump and Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch.
• Check for fuel contamination/quality.
• Check fuel filter.
• Check fuel level/gauge operation.
• Check for restricted fuel lines.
• Check for correct fuel pressure.

• Fuel Pump System: FP signal
• FPM circuit
• FP relay
• FPRC Solenoid

[*]Fuel Injection:

• INJ 1, 2 (MFI)
• INJ 1, 2, .. (SFI)

Ignition

• Check distributor cap, adapter, and rotor.
• Inspect spark plugs and plug wires.
• Check ignition switch.
• Check ignition coil for voltage.
• Inspect ICM for damage.
• Check for presence of anti-theft devices.

• Ignition System:
  PIP circuit
• SPOUT circuit
• IGN GND circuit

Power and Grounds

• Check for low battery voltage.
• Check starter and starter circuit for voltage.
• Inspect electrical connections, wires, and harnesses.

• EEC power:
  VREF
• VPWR/EEC power relay

[*]EEC grounds:

• 
  SIG RTN
• PWR GND
• CSE GND

Air/Vacuum

• Check vacuum lines for leaks or wear.
• Check air intake system.

• TP sensor
• MAP/BARO sensor
• MAF sensor
• IAC solenoid

Other

• Check engine coolant level.
• Check thermostat for proper operation.
• Check EGR valve stuck open.
• Check for moisture entry into PCM.
• Check camshaft timing and cylinder compression.
• Check for restricted exhaust.
• /CPP switch.

• ECT sensor

Thanks guys! I checked all my grounds, even wire wheeled the connections to make sure it was good. I have been ohming things out and checking voltage all night... Everything seems to check out. Weird thing is I was doing checks with my key on and during the tests my fuel pump relay and fuel pressure regulator kicked on for a second time since my key was turned on... Any ideas why? I have been trying to do anything but my fuel pump but the deeper I get the more it seems that's what out really is.

Maybe this will help.  It is a diagram of how the fuel pump works.  Note that the fuel pump relay ground is controlled by the computer.  Check the computer ground to make sure it is properly connected.  I believe we had a case lately where the ground to the computer was not properly connected.

>-

Where is the ground for the computer? I did just put a new computer on... I became a parts man because I was just reading forums and telling myself "hey that's got to be my problem too" but the fuel pump turning on with the switch but not really turning on is mind boggling. I can't do anything with it right now because the freezing rain outside but I'm for sure going to look when the weather changes. I kinda thought last night maybe the second time it cut on maybe it was the pick up? I did also notice the past time it ran my fuel gauge read wrong. And that was the first time I have ever noticed that happen.

OK, this is the guy who had the bad computer ground http://broncozone.com/topic/24073-88-bronco-50-starts-but-wont-run/page-3?do=findComment&comment=126147.  You might want to PM him and ask exactly which ground was bad.  It was probably one of these 3 shown in the diagram below and circled in the second diagram.

 

Hey man I just double checked my grounds. The g104 & g100 are grounded together on my 96 by the lh. And I wire wheeled the connectors and where they are on the frame ridding of paint and primer... Still nothing. I cant seem to understand my fuel pump being able to kick on twice without touching the key. I know if it stayed on multiple times then it would be my computer. So I'm still lost. Top it off my hood is messing up, not that I care. I rather it run and zip tie my hood down. This bronco has been in the family for a very long time but with all the time and money I'm putting into it I'm hurting my newly started family. Help! Haha

yo

G103 (battery to engine) Lower RH front of engine
Component
4WABS Pump Motor
Battery
Data Link Connector (DLC)
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.0L
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.8L
Right Front Park/Turn Lamp
Right Front Side Marker Lamp
Right Headlamp


12 14301 To Engine Ground
18 12A581 Body Grounds
19 14301 Chassis Ground
23 N802777-S36 Bolt for 14301 Frame Ground (same as in Steve83's pic)

 

Ok I just got finished cleaning the ground up on the first bolt of the motor. I've done the one on the negative post and the one on the rf.. Still nothing..... What now guys? I really appreciate this guys.

Ok so I got it to crank with starting fluid and it ran then just went dead after 2 minutes. I'm thinking fuel pump for sure now guys... What about yal?

Would yal recommend me taking off my fuel filter and seeing if fuel comes out the line like it should

yo j,

Get a fuel press gauge from local parts store as part of their loan a tool program

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=41

To test the fuel pressure you’ll need this tool. You will need to ***** it onto the schrader valve on the top of the fuel rail, it looks like a tire air valve stem. After attaching the fuel pressure tester, run the fuel pump for 10 seconds. Check that the pressure is within specs, and it doesn’t leakdown more than 5PSI within 60 seconds after pump shutdown

30—45 PSI Engine running

35—45 PSI KEY ON, ENGINE OFF

Note: Maximum fuel pressure is obtainable at WOT or the vacuum hose removed from the fuel pressure regulator.

If fuel lines/systems have been drained or evacuated, it may take up to *15 seconds to obtain the pressure specified

see https://www.motorcraftservice.com/renderers/reload_frames.asp?leftside=/pubs/content/~WVT1/~MUS~LEN/14/VT1S9L.HTM&rightside=/pubs/content/~WVT1/~MUS~LEN/15/VT1S9R.HTM&contenttype=PCED&workunit=VT1&market=US&language=EN&viewer=IE