I'm no mechanic...what next?

Hey guys! Just got my 70 out of the shop. Had a new lift and power steering installed. On the way home it missed really bad then ran fine. Now when I drive it, maybe 10 minutes into a drive it starts missing and bucking and all kinda bad stuff. I'm trying to gigure out if its a fuel problem or a spark problem. It can start running bad, usually while going along and then taking my foot out of it. I have a clear filter going into the carb and it seems like it has alot of bubbles and not much fuel in it so the first thing I did was replace the fuel filter coming out of the gas tank. No luck. Here are a few of my questions. Being the carb filter doesnt hold much fuel, could it be the fuel pump taking a crap? I mean, I would think a mechanical pump would work or not? Maybe the coil crapping out? I am getting ready to install a new high spark coil anyways, hopefully one that doesnt need that little resistor thingy that smoke when the key is left on. Or maybe the carb has trash in it? I guess, where to start now? Anyone still run the old Jacobs coils? I understand Accel manufactures them now? I sold my Bronco to a buddy 10 years back and just recently got it back. He had the motor rebuilt and unhooked the jacobs coils I had (it might have gone bad) and put a regular coil with one of them resistors on it and I am looking to get that out of there. Any recomendations? Thanks!

Hi Dave..,

"I have a clear filter going into the carb and it seems like it has alot of bubbles and not much fuel in it"

This is one of the big mysteries of automotion/life..! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

All my filters do the same thing. Sometimes full, empty, or somewhere in-between. There's air in the line but the fuel still travels on thru.

"I am getting ready to install a new high spark coil anyways, hopefully one that doesnt need that little resistor thingy"

You need a resistor to drop voltage to 6v or you'll burn up the points pretty fast. (Unless you converted back to a "pointless dizzy") Your '77 came with the Ford Duraspark electronic ignition with a "module." The modules were known (rumor has it) for some issues.

Some coils have the "internal resistor"

The stumbling could be any of a number of things..., fuel, ignition, timing chain, dirty carb bowl/jets, plugged pick-up tube/filter inside tank. Pumps usually leak out the weep-hole when they're bad. The exception being debris caught in one of the check valves.

All the connectors/wires to the ignition components are suspecious as well.

Thanks for the reply BB. Let me throw this one at you. Why does a filter rght outside the fuel tank thats twice as big as the one by the carburator stay full while the one at the carb looks hungry for fuel? I guess I will start with replacing the coil and the fuel filter, and go from the there...

Wellllll...,

My guess is air remains static or rises.., the fuel flows down as to gravity. :-B

Even if you pulled the carb gas line, held it up high & filled it with an eye-dropper/turkey baster 'til the filter remained full.., then quickly put the hose back on the carb ******, it (the filter) would likely find some air over time. The idea behind clear filters is to view the media for debris. If it's dirty, that's a sign there may be a problem up-stream of that filter. I always cut the filters in 1/2 & examine the media to check for contamination..

Remember.., the fuel is under press. after the pump. however, it barely trickles along due to the needle & seat opening & closing the feed into the carb. :-"

As to the coil., it may be bad but again, it needs to match your other ignition components. Auto parts can test your coil.

Well Bob, I started with the cheapest thing I could think of. That 4.95 resistor I just dispise. One reason I am going to upgrade to a coil that has one built in. I replaced that and its back to running like a champ!While I am at it. I just had power steering installed and it seems I can turn the wheel a mile to the left but a very short way to the right. Is that something thats adjustable or just how these things work? Thanks!

Good job..,

Nothing wrong with those resistors really..., they were used on thousands of vehicles.

I would think the coils with internal resistors would heat up a tad..

"...seems I can turn the wheel a mile to the left but..."

Sounds like that "shop" needs some training on how to hook up, & center steering. It's not "rocket science".., I would take it back & make them do it right..!!

The lift changes all the settings/geometry.

The rule of thumb is; "for every modification, there's two more needed to make things right" ...!!

With the str. wheel centered, & the pitman arm centered & pointing "straight" back.., it's a matter of hook'n the linkage up W/O moving any of the aforementioned.

Oh & BTW.., it's likely you'll need a new adj. track-bar & adj. drag-link. The lift sometimes makes the stock ones un-usable. (meaning that's likely why they put it together in 1/2 a turn to get it to line up.)

The front wheels req. about 1/8th. inch "toe-in"

The '77 has an inverted "Y" linkage. This may be a good time to convert to the older "T" type linkage. The "Y" was never popular for various reasons.

Check your fule line. I had bubbles in mine once and found that I Had a very tiney leak that caused it to **** in air while the engine was runnning but not drip when the engine was off. It was in a small section of rubber on the top side coutresy of a mouse. He must of got the tase of gas when chewing on the line and quit.

Good luck,