Working on getting some heat

The heater never put out a great amount of heat since day one and the temp gauge never went up too far so I always thought it was the thermostat,felt the heater hoses and one was hot and the other cold so it got a new heater core and got more heat but still not quite enough so it looks like I will have to tackle the stuck bolts in the intake for the thermostat as I think someone has installed a 160 thermostat,installed a new temp sending unit while the coolant was drained and the gauge moves up a little more but I hope I dont have to change the intake to get the rusted bolts out.

Where RU...? And, what are we working on.., '78 --- or '80-96"..?

That's why I bought that lazer temp reader at Harbor Frt. (cheap & works good)

My temp. guage reads a bit low & the lazer gave me the true temp. (180deg.)

PLUS.., I use it all over the house..!

If it comes down to it.., wire-wheel the crud off the bolt heads & such.

then soak with PB BLASTER many times for about a week. Tap the bolt heads fr. time to time. They should come loose then.

Is the linkage that operates the temp range (for the heater) functioning correctly/opening all the way..?

The heater core helped but it looks like the thermostat will have to be changed as its still not all that hot,the bolts are crusty and might break and not really looking forward to changing a EFI intake.

If you are careful and work the bolts back and forth you should be able to get them out without breaking one. The main problem with them is that the threads are in the coolant and collect a lot of crud. When you get them out, I would suggest that you get a new set to put back in.

Good luck,

Still never got it to put out any heat,going to tackle the thermostat real soon and got another intake just in case.

yo

More Heat; "...the 87-91 trucks with factory A/C have a recirculation door in their HVAC system, it's there to cut off outside air and keep running only in-cab air through the blower. It's vacuum controlled, and only cuts outside air when you put the control lever to off or max A/C. The problem I see with this is when you have 15F ambient temperature with some -20 windchill, heating up that air good could be a challenge for a truck with an aging heater core or tired blower fan. Last year just to see how much of difference it actually makes I zip-tied my recirculation door closed, thus running inside air through the HVAC system all winter long - things got real warm real quick, noticeable improvement even when truck is stationary. For the warmer days tho I want the recirculation door open so I can get fresh air in the cab as I drive... So I devised and implemented a solution in my 90 truck - I now have a manually controlled recirculation door that I can open and close to my liking, which means I can get tons of heat in the winter even with some nasty ambient temperatures..Parts needed:
- one constant-duty vacuum solenoid (I used an emissions solenoid from an '89 Ford Crown Victoria, grab the harness plug for that and a few inches of the wires):
."  READ AND SEE MORE
Source: by M.L.S.C.

More Heat in a 90; "...So the '87-'91 trucks with factory A/C have a recirculation door in their HVAC system, it's there to cut off outside air and keep running only in-cab air through the blower. It's vacuum controlled, and only cuts outside air when you put the control lever to "off" or "max A/C". I found on FSB board that the problem with this is when you have -10 ambient temperature with some -20 windchill, heating up that air good could be a challenge for a truck with an aging heater core or tired blower fan. Just to see how much of difference it actually makes I zip-tied my recirculation door closed, thus running inside air through the HVAC system all winter long - things got real warm real quick, noticeable improvement even when truck is stationary. For the warmer days tho I want the recirculation door open so I can get fresh air in the cab as I drive... So I devised and implemented a solution in my '90 truck - I zip tied the vacum *** closed which means I can get tons of heat in the winter even with some -20 degree temperature sand summer time i can snip it off! the '92-'96 trucks utilize the same recirculation door setup as the '87-'91, so it should be possible to do this mod to one of these truck as well..."
Source: by 90bronco

Insufficient Heat TSB 88-09-10 for 87-88 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Ford via Steve

SEE DIAGRAMS

Publication Date: APRIL 27, 1988

LIGHT TRUCK: 1987-88 F-SERIES, BRONCO

ISSUE: Insufficient heat inside of vehicles equipped with or without air conditioning may be caused by the heater air baffle missing from the plenum chamber. The heater air baffle prevents cold air from leaking in around the heater core.

ACTION: To correct this, check to see if the heater air baffle is present. If the heater air baffle is not present, install a heater air baffle using the following service procedure.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Remove the heater core access cover to see if the heater air baffle is present. If missing proceed to Step 2.
NOTE: IF THE TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR SHAFT CAN BE SEEN NEXT TO THE HEATER CORE, A HEATER AIR BAFFLE NEEDS TO BE INSTALLED.
2. Remove the heater core.
3. Remove the heater core face gasket.
4. Install the heater air baffle, (E7TZ-18D416-A) by inserting the pin on the bottom of the baffle into the lower surface of the plenum chamber.
5. Reinstall the heater core face gasket.
6. Reinstall the heater core.
7. Apply a bead of Ford Silicone Sealer, (D6AZ-19562-AA) around the heater core access cover.
8. Reinstall the heater core access cover.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
E7TZ-18D416-A Heater Air Baffle
D6AZ-19562-AA Ford Clear Silicone Sealer

SUPERSEDES: 88-04-14
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Basic Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
880910A Inspect only 0.3 Hr.
880910B Inspect and install heater air baffle 0.6 Hr.

=====

From Ford for 96, but diagnosis is similarl

• Insufficient, Erratic, or No Heat

• Low radiator coolant due to coolant leaks.

• CHECK radiator cap pressure. REPLACE if below minimum pressure. FILL to specified coolant level. PRESSURE TEST for engine cooling system and heating system leaks. SERVICE as required.

 

• Engine overheating.

• REMOVE bugs, leaves, etc. from radiator and support or A/C condenser core fins. CHECK for: Operation of engine fan clutch
• Loose drive belt
• Sticking thermostat
• Incorrect ignition timing
• Water pump impeller damage
• Restricted cooling system
• SERVICE as required.

 

• Loose drive belt.

• REPLACE drive belt if cracked or worn and ADJUST drive belt tension.

 

• Thermostat.

• FEEL heater water hoses. If the heater water hoses are too hot to hold, the thermostat is OK. If the heater water hoses do not get too hot to hold, REPLACE the thermostat. If only one heater water hose gets hot while the other remains cool, a plugged heater water hose or heater core is indicated.

 

• Heater water hoses.

• CHECK condition and routing of hoses.

I was able to get the bolts out without breaking so it definately warms up much quicker but even with the new heater core it could be a little hotter,I will have to look into that baffle and blend door when it gets closer to fall as I have other things to do to it right now.

i am curious as to what is the temp of the air comming from the vents. Thats the only way i can think of to determine if the air is at the right temp. i am just saying whats hot enough for one person may not feel  hot enough to another.

Since my ex girlfriend tore up my crown vic I am driving the bronco and it still could use more heat,everything is working when I move the selector so something must be wrong in the system so when I get the crown vic back on the road I will tear into the bronco.

• Page Two News
• Convention

Finally found out why there was no heat,when I had the heater control out to replace the blower switch and pigtail the clip that held the blend door cable broke so I rigged it until I could find a replacement. Went to the junkyard saturday and was a little bummed that the only truck with a/c had the cable missing but I looked at one with just heat and the cable was the same so I have a replacement.