73 bronco starting problem

I just bought a 1973 bronco. It has having a hard time starting. It will crank but will not start. The bronco is getting fuel and has a very weak spark to it. What do i need to do next? Occasionally it will start up and will be running fine then about 15 minutes later the engine will turn off and i have to restart bronco. What could be causing this problems?

Thanks

Hi destin..., welcome..!!

'73 was the 1st yr. for the Ford Duraspark ignition.

Start there with all the wire connections (clean-n-dry). This would be the coil, the module, & inside the dizzy. Auto Parts stores can test the coil for you.

Coil would be my 1st. guess as to the culprit.

2nd. would be a failing module.

3rd. would be all the other wire & cable connections under the hood. (clean with good contact).

Thanks Bob. I replace the coil and it is starting up fine. However, I have a new problem now. When I shift either into reverse or drive the bronco will shut off. If i give it a little gas as soon as i change gear it will sometimes stay running. Any ideas about this? Thanks for your help again

AND.., thank you for the feed-back.., that really helps us help you, & others.

As to this new issue..., there's a vacuum operated modulator on the auto trannie that could be the problem, or the vacuum line itself.

-OR- a vacuum leak elsewhere on the engine.

-OR- the idle mixture ***** is in to far.., idle set too low..?

-OR- the timing could be off a few deg.

Do you have one of the basic Bronco manuals...?

No I do not have a manual. Would be very helpful if I could find one. Where can I get one? Sorry for these easy questions. Not a car guy and trying to learn about it on the fly with the bronco. Where is the vacuum line and idle mixture *****? How do I test for a vacuum leak? Thanks for replying so fast to my feed

You're doing fine.., we all had to start somewhere.

Go to your auto parts store.., they have Bronco specific manuals. They're not perfect but good basic starter books. (& cheap)

Also your local libuary will likely have some auto repair books. The Bronco is "old-school" & very easy to service/repair.

The idle *****(s) are on the lower front of the carb.

Vac. lines are various small hoses/metal tubes..., one runs fr. the back of the eng. down to the passenger side of the trannie.

Checking for vac. leaks is pretty easy but you might be better served by reviewing the manual a bit first.

However, a quick check of the PCV valve may be in order. It should be clean & "rattle" when you shake it. It plugs into the valve cover, with a rubber hose hooked to it.

Thanks again bronco bob. I dont know if i could have done this without your help. I checked the PCV valve and to my limited experience it seem to be ok. It was clean and "rattle" when i shook it. So next i tried to adjust the idle mixture *****. I think it was too far in, so i screwed it out and I believe that had fixed the problem. I will crank it again tomorrow and see if it is still working fine, but i believe that fixed the problem.

Next issue i am having....after car has been sitting over night and is cold it is sometimes hard to start up. Takes a few times for it to finally start up. But after car is warm it will start on 1st attempt. Is there anything i can do to try to fix it so it always starts on 1st try or is this just something i have to deal with being at 73 bronco? Any ideas?

Thanks again!

As a side note.., if that's the stock carb., there's likely two idle screws under there. They should be adj. pretty even. You'll see how in the auto repair/tuning book. (pretty much feel & sound)

"....fix it so it always starts on 1st try or is this just something i have to deal with being a 73 bronco?"

How funny... :lol:

All cars built aft. the 1910's would start hot or cold on the 1st try.. >< <'>

You have a choke issue or maybe a weak accelerator pump. The automatic choke is on the pass. side of carb. with a black disc on it about 1 3/4 " across.

With air filt. off & with eng. cold.., & then again when warm you'll be able to see the choke "flap" in a diff. position. closed when cold.., open when warm.

At some point, you'll need to fill-in your info. as you see it on my posts (left & below) It will help us help you & can be up-dated as needed, at any time.

We're going to make you a "Bronco mechanic"...!!

Thanks again Bronco Bob. How do I adjust the choke issue? Ive got about another week to we get warm weather down here in FL and ready to take her out without having in issues.

Thanks

Come on now.., there's no "cold weather" in Fla. ...!!! :lol:

"How do I adjust the choke issue?"

If, in fact, there's a sign the choke isn't working, loosening the 3 screws & turning the black disc 'til the flap just closes. (this while the eng. is "cold")

Thanks again Bob,

I adjusted the choke by loosening the 3 screws and turning until the flap closed and then tightened the screws back on and now she starts up every time on the 1st try. And yes is does get cold here in FL 50 degrees is pretty cold here /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> .

Next issue that i have, but i think i know the problem, but still would like your opinion. Yesterday after turning the black disc and closing the flap i noticed that the back passenger side of engine was smoking. I dont think the 2 are related. I am thinking that i need to replace the valve cover gasket? There is built up oil around there. I dont see any oil dripping currently though more like oil that had been there. Is that most likely the issue? could it be anything else?

Also yesterday i noticed that when i hit the gas that liquid was coming out of the tail pipe. Also assuming that this isnt a big deal. Just built up condensation maybe? Or could this be anything else? Trying to learn. Hope i am no driving you crazy with all these questions

THanks for all your help

"I am thinking that i need to replace the valve cover gasket?"

See.., you're already a Bronco Mechanic. That's all it takes is common sense & good judgment.

Most likely the valve cover. (one 'lil drop of oil will make a puff of smoke)

Check the tightness of the small bolts that hold them on. However, they should be just snug as too tight bends warps the bolt holes. If if fact, you have to put on a new gasket, clean the cover surface & tap the bolt holes flat against another flat surface.

"....liquid was coming out of the tail pipe"

Yes.., this is most likely condensate. An assurance test would be to check it when the eng. is good & warmed up, after a run around town for a bit. That will evaporate most, if not all the moisture.

"Hope I am no driving you crazy with all these questions."

Naw.., This board is like a memory quiz.., it keeps the brain juices flow'n >< <'> However, you may have some tougher questions down the road.... :-B

Replaced one of the gasket covers that had the oil leak on that side. The other side i left alone since it wasnt leaking. Why fix something that isnt broken yet i guess. But this has fixed my oil leak now.

The only other leak i have under her is transmission fluid, assuming it is this 'redish color liquid'. Is there any easy fix for this? Some kind of 'stop transmission leak fluid' i can put in?

Should i start a new thread on other issues i have since they are no longer related to starting problems or does it matter?

"Should i start a new thread on other issues i have since they are no longer related to starting problems or does it matter?"

It's up to you..., you'll prob. get more responses.

"The only other leak i have under her is transmission fluid, assuming it is this 'redish color liquid'. Is there any easy fix for this?"

You could wipe it down some to help find what's leaking.

Make sure it's not overfull.

Insp. the cooler lines that run to the radiator.., & any other hoses.

I have limited exp. with auto trannies. :blush:

the other day i adjusted the choke when engine was cold and made sure the flap was closed. Drove her around yesterday afternoon. Then this morning i tried to start her up and took a few tries again . Looked at the flap and it was wide open. What could the problem be? Maybe the coil that opens and closes flap to stretched out and not able to coil back? idk? Finally after i had to pump throttle a few times it started up. Then when i hit about 40 mph it felt that she was shaking really bad and really bumpy. Need tires rotated and balanced?

The coil spring holds pressure on the choke flap. As the eng. warms up.., the spring expands & releases pressure. You may just have to re-set it a few times 'til it's right.

Several things can cause shaking.., & it can be front or rear.

What you describe sounds like a tracking bar bracket broken or the bushings are blown out. You'll see the track bar attached to the driver side of the frame & the other end attached to the pass. side front axle. All an easy fix.

BTW, can you get/post pics of these issues as they pop up..?

A light shake could very well be tire balance..., do you see any weights on the wheels..? Are the tires cupped/worn uneven..? Shocks OK..?