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1995 Bronco vibration/wobble


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#1 gotmeagn

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 04:13 PM

I have a vibration/wobble with my 1995 4x4 Bronco that I can't figure out.

I only feel it when accelerating. Starts at about 15 mph or so, and continues at all speeds. Although, I can't feel it as bad the faster I go, it's still there. It seems to be coming from the front end because my steering wheel and dashboard shakes right along with it.

I've rotated my tires, changed plugs, wires and distributor, replaced my brakes, had both ujoints on front shaft replaced, still the same thing.

If I put it in reverse and pick up good speed, it does fine and can't feel any vibration.

Here is the odd part: when I lock the front hubs in 4x4 and put it 2H or 4H, it totally goes away. Take it out of 4x4 and unlock the hubs, comes back immediately.

Can someone please point me in the right direction? It's driving me insane that I can't find it.

#2 Bully Bob

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 08:34 PM

Hi & welcome..,

"I've rotated my tires, changed plugs, wires and distributor, replaced my brakes, had both ujoints on front shaft replaced, still the same thing."
WOW...! this couldn't have come cheap.... :o

You're prob. right as to it being the front end. Put the front up on jackstands & shake/move/insp. all the steering components. Also the ball-joints for wobble.
Tires (one or more) can seperate & create "wobble". Is the balance correct on all four..?
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#3 Krafty

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 03:22 AM

yeah get that front end up on stands and start rotating and checking everything. i'd pull the front hubs apart and check on the hub nuts. hubs locked vs not locked would suggest the outer hubs/ spindle are wobbling.

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#4 miesk5

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 03:54 AM

yo
WELCOME!
Have the manual locking hubs been inspected?
The issue seems to center around one locking hub stuck in an internally locked condition.

Operational Test in a 96 - same for your year; "...Manual locking hubs are simple to diagnose. Place the transfer case in 2-wheel drive and raise the front wheels off the ground. When in the unlocked position, the wheels should be able to turn freely. Then lock each of the front hubs and rotate the front wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. In addition, the axle and front driveshaft should be moving along with the wheel. Disengage the hubs and repeat the procedure to check that the hubs have smoothly disengaged..." from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, and Bronco Workshop Manual
Operational Test; "... (engine off, hubs disengaged), crawl under the truck with the transfer case in 2HI, you should be able to grab the front drive shaft and turn it by hand. Also with the hubs disengaged you should see the front axles turning freely. Now engage the hubs and you should not be able to turn the drive shaft by hand. Jack the front wheels off the ground with the hubs engaged, turn the drive shaft by hand, the wheels should turn. The 4x4 light should not be on in 2HI, when in 4LOW you may have a low range light on, (not all trucks have that light) at least mine doesn't..."
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Operational Test; "The t-case disconnects the front driveshaft from the transmission, and the hubs disconnect the axleshafts from the wheels. The driveshaft is ALWAYS connected to the diff & axleshafts. Depending on how tight your diff is, both axleshafts MAY turn when you turn the d'shaft while BOTH hubs are unlocked, but at least one of them has to no matter what. If the d-shaft won't turn with both front wheels off the ground (or the hub locks removed), then the t-case is still in 4. If either axleshaft won't turn with its hub UNlocked AND the t-case in 2 or N, then that hub is stuck locked. I suspect you'll find some carmelized grease, and some surface rust on the lock rings, and probably a spring or 2 heavily rusted, to the point that they're ruined. But that's just a guess. Take both hub locks OUT of the hubs, and then roll the truck a little. You don't need to remove the tires, or even jack the front end up since the locks don't bear ANY weight. If the d'shaft still turns, the problem is in your t-case..."



==================

Here is other stuff; most of which was suggested by BULLY BOB;
I'll leave it here for other tests and for posterity

This is by Ford in Noise, Vibration, Harshness, Ride, Squeak & Rattles TSB 99-11-1 for 95-97 F 250, F 350, SD; 95-99 Econoline, Explorer, F 150, F 250, Ranger, Villager, Windstar and Many Others, Except that Ford Left Out Our Bronco


There is no info on the issue while Bronco is in 2WD & the issue disappears when in 4x4; except for the reverse;
Transfer case vibration—vibration felt with vehicle in 4WD
Transfer case mounting. Driveshaft out of balance. Excessive pinion flange runout.

Tire Noise/Vibration
Tire wobble or shudder — • Damaged wheel bearings. • SPIN the tire and CHECK for occurs at lower speeds abnormal wheel bearing play or roughness. ADJUST or INSTALL new wheel bearings as necessary.
• Damaged wheel. • INSPECT the wheel for damage. INSTALL a new wheel as necessary.
• Damaged or worn suspension • INSPECT the suspension components. components for wear or damage. REPAIR as necessary.
• Loose wheel nuts. • CHECK the wheel nuts. TIGHTEN to specification.
• Damaged or uneven tire wear. • SPIN the tire and CHECK for abnormal tire wear or damage. INSTALL a new tire as
necessary.

Tire shimmy or shake— occurs • Wheel/tire out of balance. • BALANCE the wheel/tire
at lower speeds assembly.
• Uneven tire wear. • CHECK for abnormal tire wear. INSTALL a new tire as necessary.
• Excessive radial runout of • CARRY OUT a radial runout wheel or tire. test of the wheel and tire. INSTALL a new tire as necessary.
• Worn or damaged wheel studs • INSPECT the wheel studs and or elongated stud holes. wheels. INSTALL new components as necessary.
• Excessive lateral runout of the • CARRY OUT a lateral runout wheel or tire. test of the wheel and tire. CHECK the wheel, tire and hub. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
• Foreign material between the • CLEAN the mounting surfaces brake disc and hub or in the of the brake disc and hub.
brake disc fins. CHECK the brake disc fins for material.

================
This is by Ford for 96, but = to your 95;
Here is a synopsis;
go to:
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Click: Suspension, Front
Refer to Section 04-00 and Section 00-04.

Click: Components Tests
Noise or Vibration, 4-Wheel Drive Vehicles
Noise or Vibration, 4-Wheel Drive Vehicles

Verify the condition by road testing.

For 4-wheel drive vehicles, verify concern with known quality conventional tires. If symptom still exists, perform the following:

Shift transfer case into two-wheel drive.

Unlock front hub locks (or remove front driveshaft (4602)).

If condition disappears, concern is in front axle or driveshaft.

If condition persists, remove rear driveshaft and road test using front drive.

If condition disappears, concern is in rear driveline or axle.

If condition persists, refer to Symptom Charts in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section or other sources.

For front wheel tire concerns, refer to Match Mounting Tires in the Adjustments portion of this section.




Engine Speed Sensitive
The vibration occurs at varying vehicle speeds when a different transmission gear is selected. It can sometimes be isolated by increasing or decreasing engine speed with the transmission in NEUTRAL, or by stall testing with the transmission in gear. If the condition is engine-speed sensitive, the condition is not related to tires.

Front End
CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust front wheel alignment without making a preliminary inspection of the front end parts, and correcting where necessary.
Fill all fluids to specification.
Make sure spare tire or wheel and related equipment are properly stored.
Remove any excessive accumulation of mud, dirt or road deposits from the chassis and underbody.
Retain all normal loads in the vehicle. Inflate all tires to the pressure specified on the Safety Compliance Certification Label (usually located on the inside driver's door pillar).
Check both front tires and make sure they are the same size, ply rating, and load range.
Inflate all tires to specified pressure (cold). Check both front tires for the same size, ply rating and load range. Refer to Section 04-04.

Check for excessive front wheel bearing end play. Refer to Wheel Bearings, Front, in the Adjustments portion of this section. Adjust and/or replace the front wheel bearings. Refer to Section 04-01A or Section 04-01B.
Check for worn or damaged spindle pins (kingpins) or ball joints. Replace the ball joints or spindle pins (kingpins). Refer to Section 04-01A (4x2) and Section 05-03A or Section 05-03B.
Ball Joints, Front Suspension Upper Arm and Lower, Twin I-Beam Front Axle Equipped with Joint

Prior to performing any inspection of front suspension lower arm ball joints (3050) or front suspension upper ball joints (3049), adjust the front wheel bearings as described in Section 04-01A or Section 04-01B.
Raise the vehicle and place safety stands under the I-beam axle beneath the spring.
Have an assistant grasp the lower edge of the tire and move the wheel in and out.
While the wheel is being moved, observe the lower spindle arm and the lower part of the axle jaw. A 0.794mm (1/32-inch) or greater movement between the lower portion of the I-beam and the lower spindle arm indicates that the front suspension lower arm ball joint must be replaced.

To check the front suspension upper ball joints, grasp the upper edge of the tire and move the wheel in and out. A 0.794mm (1/32-inch) or greater movement between the upper spindle arm and the upper portion of the I-beam indicates that the front suspension upper ball joint must be replaced
96balljointtest.gif
Check for bent steering linkage or excessively worn joints. Refer to Section 11-03.

Check the steering gear mounting bolts and tighten to the specified torque. Refer to Section 11-02B or Section 11-02D.
Inspect the radius arm if bent or damaged. Inspect the bushings at the radius arm-to-frame attachment for wear and looseness. Repair or replace parts as required. Refer to Section 04-01A or Section 04-01B.

Check other suspension components for damage.
Check for aftermarket changes to steering, suspension, wheel and tire components (i.e., competition, heavy-duty, etc.). Specifications in this manual do not apply to vehicles with aftermarket changes.


Shock Absorber Checks

CAUTION: The low pressure gas shock absorbers are charged with nitrogen gas to 931 kPa (135 psi) for 1 inch and 1-3/16 inch bore, and 1034 kPa (150 psi) for 1-3/8 inch bore. Do not attempt to open, puncture or apply heat to the shock absorbers.

All vehicles are equipped with low pressure gas-filled hydraulic shock absorbers of the direct acting type. They are non-adjustable and non-refillable. They cannot be serviced as cartridges and must be serviced as shock assemblies.

Before replacing a shock absorber, check the action of the shock absorbers as follows.
Vehicle Inspection
Check all tires for proper inflation pressure.
Check tire condition to confirm proper front end alignment, tire balance and overall tire condition such as separation or bulges.
Check the vehicle for optional suspension equipment such as heavy-duty handling or trailer tow suspensions. These suspensions will have a firmer ride feeling than standard suspensions.
Check the vehicle attitude for evidence of possible overload or sagging.
Many times front springs and front shock absorbers (18124) are replaced in an effort to solve a vehicle sag concern. Shock absorbers are, by design, hydraulic damping units only, and unlike suspension springs, do not support any suspension loads. Therefore, replacing a shock absorber will not correct a vehicle sag concern.
Road test vehicle to confirm customer concern.
Make sure the shock absorber is securely and properly installed.
Check the shock absorber insulators for damage and wear.
Replace any worn or damaged insulators and tighten attachments to the specified torque (on a shock absorber which incorporates internal insulators, replace the shock absorbers).
Tighten shock absorber attachments to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft) upper, 60-81 Nm (45-60 lb-ft) lower.
Inspect the shock absorber for evidence of fluid leakage.
A light film of oil (weepage) on the upper portion of the front shock absorber is permissible and is a result of proper shock lubrication. Weepage is a condition in which a thin film of oil may be deposited on the shock outer tube (body) and is normally noticed due to the collection of dust in this area. Front shock absorbers which exhibit this weepage condition are functional units and should not be replaced. Leakage is a condition in which the entire shock body is covered with oil and the oil will drip from the shock onto the pavement.

If leakage exists:
Make sure the fluid observed is not from sources other than the front shock absorber.
Replace the worn or damaged front shock absorber.
Disconnect the lower end of the shock absorber.

Extend and compress the shock absorber as fast as possible, using as much travel as possible. Action should be smooth and uniform throughout each stroke.
Higher resistance on extension than on compression is a normal condition.
Faint swish noises are also normal.
Make sure the part number of the replacement is the same as that of the original shock absorber.

Hoist Check
Noise: Noise can be caused by loose suspension or shock attachments. Verify that all attachments or the suspension components and front springs and front shock absorbers are tight. Replace any worn or damaged upper stud insulators. Check front springs and front shock absorbers for external damage.

Bottom/Hopping: Check condition of the rubber suspension travel stops (front suspension bumpers (3020)). Replace if worn or missing. Examine for evidence of previous overload or damaged components.

Force-Check: Support axle and remove lower front shock attachment. Stroke front shock body using as much travel as possible. The action should be smooth and uniform throughout each stroke. Damping forces should be equivalent on both sides of the vehicle.

Replace only the worn or damaged front shock absorber.
In the past it was recommended that front shock absorbers be replaced in pairs if one unit became unserviceable. Improved sealing, new materials, design and improved rod machining and hardening techniques have added to the reliability of shock absorbers. Therefore, front shock absorbers no longer need to be replaced in pairs when only one unit is not serviceable.
etc.

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#5 Rons beast

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 03:36 PM

Hey got,
Welcome.... I had the exact problem on The Beast...had a broken belt in a tire.
The "wobble" wasn't apparent till I got it jacked up safely and got the tire spinning.
Check all the suspention components to be sure, but it sounds like a belt separation, as Bully suggested.
Good Luck
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#6 gotmeagn

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 04:37 PM

Thanks for the replies. Here is what I have done this evening.

Jacked her up, can't see anything noticeable with my tires. Ball joints, bearings, steering components all appear fine. Wheels spin freely and the ujoints at each tire do not spin when I spin my tires. So one of the locking hubs isn't stuck in the locked position.

Not sure how it's supposed to work, and hoping someone can tell me. I let the bronce down off the jack and I locked the passenger hub first. Even with the passenger hub in locked position, the ujoint and shaft would spin freely when I spun the shaft with my hand. It was like it wasn't even locked in. Once I locked the drivers side hub, I couldn't move the shaft anymore.
With the hubs locked, I ran down the road a short distance and had the vibration. Stopped and put it 4wd, ran down the road a short distance and couldn't feel the same vibration. Took it out of 4wd, pulled in my driveway. When I unlocked the drivers hub, I couldn't spin the shaft. It's like the passengers hub decided to lock in. Unlocked the passengers hub, and the shaft spins freely. Just for grins, I locked the passenger hub again, and now the shaft locks in like I expected.

Does it sound like the problem could be in my passengers locking hub since the first time I locked it in, I could still spin the shaft freely? Like I said, not sure how it's supposed to act, but I would expect the shaft to be locked in as soon as I locked the hub.

#7 miesk5

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 04:23 AM

yo,
I am having some vision issues right now and my brain knots up trying to look @ your results and the Ford troubleshooting;
do this road test;
When checking front hubs for proper operation, road test the vehicle to make sure the hubs will remain engaged while under load. This is accomplished by engaging 4-wheel drive and taking the vehicle through several turns (both forward and backward) on dry pavement. This will put an additional load on the front wheel at the outside of the turn because it is traveling the greatest distance.

Driving through several turns while traveling in different directions will make sure that both sides of the hub teeth have been tested under load. Hubs that are not sufficiently engaged will pop out when loaded. This is due to the driveline releasing windup and is an indication of hub malfunction.

If slippage is suspected, mark the tire and axle shaft with chalk (after locking the hub) and apply a heavy torque load several times. Then inspect your original indexing marks. If they are no longer aligned, the hubs are not remaining locked when under load. They will have to be replaced.
===========

Check pass side hub parts esp Snap Rings and springs inside Hub assy
Dana 44 Parts Break-Out Diagrams w/ Auto & Manual Locking Hubs & BoM; 6 MB PDF; see Page 122
Source: by www2.dana.com
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-9.pdf
Clean and Lightly lube.

Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for Bronco, F Series & Ranger (COMPLETE); Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting & Hub Operation; same for 87-96

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#8 freeeat40

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 07:02 AM

GREAT idea. Haven't even thought of that. I will do that this evening and post my tesults. Thanks so much for the input.

#9 gotmeagn

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 08:09 AM

Haven't been able to reply, but here's is where I am at. Checked the front hubs as suggested, and it is working fine. It isn't slipping in and out of 4wd.

So I am at a loss. Drove it quite a bit yesterday. I noticed that the vibration doesn't start until I hit about 25 mph, and continues until I hit about 40 to 45 mph. I still feel it after that, but not nearly as bad.

Still seems to me like it's something in my drive train, although I can't find what it is YET. And again, you only feel it when accelerating. If I let off the gas any at all, it totally goes away.

Someone correct me if I am wrong. I know a couple have suggested that I may have a tire issue. But can a tire issue cause a vibration only when you accelerate? Seems like a tire issue would show itself if the vehicle was moving, not just when accelerating? With that said, I do have one tire that is pretty worn out, and was able to pick up a really good set of used tires in my size over the weekend. going to be ordering some new wheels and will get them installed in the next week. So I will eliminate the tire issue either way. But I am curious if a tire issue could show up only when accelerating.

I will post the results of the tires as soon as I am done. Again, thanks so much for the input

#10 Bully Bob

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 03:15 PM

"But I am curious if a tire issue could show up only when accelerating."
NO.., not likely.
What you're now describing sounds like rear driveshaft or rearend issues.
---Jeep recovery unit---
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless. (with rag top-n-doors)
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
$30 homemade HEI elect. ignition.
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Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..

#11 miesk5

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 05:25 AM

yo,
im this
Noise or Vibration, 4-Wheel Drive Vehicles
I posted previously;

Verify the condition by road testing.

For 4-wheel drive vehicles, verify concern with known quality conventional tires. If symptom still exists, perform the following:

Shift transfer case into two-wheel drive.

Unlock front hub locks (or remove front driveshaft (4602)).

If condition disappears, concern is in front axle or driveshaft.

If condition persists, remove rear driveshaft and road test using front drive.

If condition disappears, concern is in rear driveline or axle.

If condition persists, refer to Symptom Charts in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section or other sources.

For front wheel tire concerns, refer to Match Mounting Tires in the Adjustments portion of this section.

=================

in Noise, Vibration, Harshness, Ride, Squeak & Rattles TSB 99-11-1 I posted;
Glossary of Terms:
Acceleration-Light
An increase in speed at less than half throttle.

Acceleration-Medium
An increase in speed at half to nearly full throttle, such as 0-97 km/h (0-60 mph) in approximately 30 seconds.

Acceleration-Heavy
An increase in speed at one-half to full throttle, 0-97 km/h (0-60 mph) in approximately 20 seconds.

Clunk/Driveline Clunk
A heavy or dull, short-duration, low-frequency sound.
Occurs mostly on a vehicle that is accelerating or decelerating abruptly. Also described as a thunk.

Tip-In Moan A light moaning noise heard during light vehicle acceleration, usually between 40-100 km/h (25-65 mph).


go to page 100-04-94

Wheel and tire NVH concerns are directly related to vehicle speed and are not generally affected by acceleration, coasting or decelerating

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Thanks to All Who Serve


#12 gotmeagn

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Posted 18 November 2012 - 06:12 PM

FINALLY found my darn problem. Turns out it was my rear universal joint, of all things.

I did try all the options everyone listed. But this is how I found it:

Early on my troubleshooting, I call myself checking the universal joints. Grabbed the shaft, but couldn't detect any movement at all in the U-joints. Today I decided to jack up the rear tires and was going to check the bearings, AGAIN. When I jacked up the rear left tire, I started moving the tire what little it would move, and could hear a clicking underneath. Climbed under and watched the rear u-joint as I rolled the tire, and that's the only time I can see the play in the u-joint. When the tire is moved a little, it releases the pressure on the shaft, and now I can wiggle the shaft directly and see the movement in the u-joint.
So tickled that is all that it is. But trying to track this problem down has been an issue.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone offered.

Have a Great Day!!!

Erik



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