BW 1345 Yoke Removal

I'm trying to get the rear output yoke off my BW 1345, so I can replace the speedometer drive gear.

It looks like the nut is 1-1/4", but I can't get a socket around it because the opening around the nut is too narrow. A parts guy said there may be a special Ford tool I need.

Any ideas?

id just take the socket to a bench grinder and take off a sliver all the way around and try again,

Turns out a standard socket will fit, but you just have to clean out the dirt and gunk packed in and around the nut. I used a set of dental picks to get it all out.

Bebop Man said:

Turns out a standard socket will fit, but you just have to clean out the dirt and gunk packed in and around the nut. I used a set of dental picks to get it all out.

Click to expand...

Hey Bebop Man, I'm about to replace a faulty speedo gear in my BW 1345. How hard was it? Does everything come off relatively easy and go back on easily too? I just don't know what to expect, I've never really done anything with transfer cases. Thanks a lot for any help.

yo Eric,

 WELCOME!

1 1/4 12pt thinwall socket;

I do as BEPOPMAN dies, clean the threads well, and if rusty, I use a portable Dremel w/wire brush (I have about 20 diff sizes and types) then Penetrant and if nec. apply heat w/a torch (MAP gas works ok),'

penetrating fluid is your best friend.
FYI & for Posterity
I use auto 50 - 50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone (borrowed from my better-half's nail polish remover)

"April/May 2007 issue of Machinists Workshop.
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison
test.

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with
the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.


*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone.*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
The results have been widely quoted on the internet, but the picture in the magazine allegedly shows power steering fluid and not ATF, and according to lbender (who claims to be the author) in this thread, it actually was power steering fluid (mixed with acetone) that they tested.
 

Ok, thanks for the info. I was wondering more if I'm going to be dealing with a lot of fluids and/or parts falling out at me, or what. Also, how do I refill any fluid that does come out?

yo Eric,

yw.

 Drain all fluid through drain plug; see more below;

Here is the 1345 Rebuild

http://www.broncohq.com/pdf/80-96/chassis/1345transfercase.pdf

1345 was used in 250's and 350's but for some reason this doc does not show Bronco, unless I missed it.

See Fig 2 for drain and fill plug locations on rear cover



See Page 16-86-7 for refill; replace drain plug;

Minimal torque; tighten to 6-14 ft lbs

add 6 pints of Ford auto tran fluid meeting spec shown through fill plug hole

Should  fill to around level of fill plug holse, so try and park on sevel durface.

Minimal torque again; tighten fill plug to 15-25 ft lbs

===========

And from my old Chilton;

Borg-Warner 1345 � Dexron� II ATF - some peeps use synthetics

Type: Chain-driven, aluminum
Low-range ratio: 2.72:1
Lubricant: ATF
Length: (in.): 17.25
Width (in.): 23.0
Height: (in.): 12.0
Used by: Some 1980-to-88 full-size Fords. Holds six pints of Dextron II ATF. This unit can be towed extended distances
because of its built-in pump that channels oil to all necessary bearings.
 

Our Bro here in BroncoZone Justshootme84 (RIP BRO) wrote here;

The B-W 13-45 can be found on 83-87 Broncos, although the NewProcess 208 is more common. Like the 208, the 13-45 is chain-drive and has an aluminum case. You want to keep the skid plate under the rig, as the case can easily be damaged if you drive over a large rock or tree. WHile the chain can stretch over time, most cases should give 200K miles of service or more. The number one cause of failure is lack of fluid killing the pump. And if your t-case has the weird plugs with the 7/16" square, inset holes, you can easily swap them out with some hex-head brass plugs from a hardware or auto parts store. It's easier to check the fluid that way on a regular basis (2-4x/year). For more info on t-cases, check out www.truckpulls.com JSM84
http://broncozone.com/topic/9531-borg-warner/

ericconn said:

Hey Bebop Man, I'm about to replace a faulty speedo gear in my BW 1345. How hard was it? Does everything come off relatively easy and go back on easily too? I just don't know what to expect, I've never really done anything with transfer cases. Thanks a lot for any help.

Click to expand...

Not very, but some prep work was needed.  Since I knew I was going to have to pull the yoke, I made sure I had a new seal and bought a seal puller, plus rented a seal press.  I made sure I had the correct speedo drive-gear,  oil pan to catch the fluid and replacement fluid (plus a hand hand pump from O'Reilly Auto) to replace it.  All in all, it took about an hour.

I cheated when I started this project.  I found a transfer case at the JY, and pulled it apart while I was there so I could see how it went together.  The seal puller and press saves a lot of time and hassle.  Everything else was socket-and-wrenches

Thanks for all the info. I was just under the truck for like 2 hours trying to get that rear nut off. It is on there really good. Just to make sure I didn't hit my head or something, it's a normal thread on that, correct? It looks to be so, just checking.

I'm trying to get an impact wrench, doing this manually is not going to cut it.

Again, thanks for the info.

miesk5 said:

yo Eric,

yw.

 Drain all fluid through drain plug; see more below;

Here is the 1345 Rebuild

http://www.broncohq.com/pdf/80-96/chassis/1345transfercase.pdf

Click to expand...

Great to know from this for me, from the end of the description section, is that you can tow the truck for long distances with the drive shaft still on because of how it's lubricated. I may have to tow it, so that's good to know.

Also, Bebop, did you use an impact socket to get yours off or were you able to use a normal socket? I cannot find one that is thin enough, and just shredded a 12-pt non-impact socket I have. I got an a long impact socket online and it's too thick. Even the thinnest one I can find is still too thick. I can't find a non-impact 6-point one anywhere.

I picked up a cylinder of MAPP tonight and hopefully the extra heat will help some.

I don't know if anyone is still with me here, but I got the yoke off last night. MAPP did the trick, after grinding down the socket .1 of an inch.

ericconn said:

Also, Bebop, did you use an impact socket to get yours off or were you able to use a normal socket? I cannot find one that is thin enough, and just shredded a 12-pt non-impact socket I have. I got an a long impact socket online and it's too thick. Even the thinnest one I can find is still too thick. I can't find a non-impact 6-point one anywhere.

I picked up a cylinder of MAPP tonight and hopefully the extra heat will help some.

Click to expand...

I used a regular socket, then hit it with an impact wrench.  I think, it was a year ago.