ryanapfel
New member
What's the difference? Somtimes i have the engine light on. Somtimes the check engine light. Somtimes both. Somtimes none. What does it all mean!? Lol
Red "engine" light vs yellow "check engine" light
- Thread starter ryanapfel
- Start date
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yo,
Check Engine Light (CEL); The light comes on briefly when you turn the ignition key to ON, but it should turn off when the engine starts. If the light does not come on when you turn the ignition to ON or if it comes on and stays on when you are driving, it indicates a sensor signal that is outside the limits set by the calibration strategy.
The error code associated with this system fault is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM). If the fault is no longer present, the light will turn off and vehicle will return to normal vehicle strategy. The error code stored when the light was on was not erased. This code is one of the continuous error codes and can be accessed by running the KOEO self-test..."
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
JOE includes VACUUM LEAK TESTS
The red warning light for the brakes can show three things; that either the parking brake is not fully released, that the brake fluid level is low in the master cylinder reservoir or the vacuum pressure is low on diesel engine vehicles. The anti-lock brake system uses one amber ABS warning light to alert the driver of malfunctions in the system. The amber ABS warning light will come on for numerous reasons. It warns the driver that the ABS has been disabled. Normal power-assisted braking remains but the wheels can lock during a panic stop while the indicator is on
Check Engine Light (CEL); The light comes on briefly when you turn the ignition key to ON, but it should turn off when the engine starts. If the light does not come on when you turn the ignition to ON or if it comes on and stays on when you are driving, it indicates a sensor signal that is outside the limits set by the calibration strategy.
The error code associated with this system fault is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM). If the fault is no longer present, the light will turn off and vehicle will return to normal vehicle strategy. The error code stored when the light was on was not erased. This code is one of the continuous error codes and can be accessed by running the KOEO self-test..."
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
JOE includes VACUUM LEAK TESTS
The red warning light for the brakes can show three things; that either the parking brake is not fully released, that the brake fluid level is low in the master cylinder reservoir or the vacuum pressure is low on diesel engine vehicles. The anti-lock brake system uses one amber ABS warning light to alert the driver of malfunctions in the system. The amber ABS warning light will come on for numerous reasons. It warns the driver that the ABS has been disabled. Normal power-assisted braking remains but the wheels can lock during a panic stop while the indicator is on
ryanapfel
New member
I think u misunderstood. The red light isn't the brake light. I have a red light that lights up and says "engine" then a sepeate light that lights up yellow and says "check engine"
red engine light comes on if oil pressure is too low or sender (switch) or gauge/ckt is faulty; here is a pic by BOOBA of his 89 F 150 inst panel showing red engine & CEL; should be = to your Bronco; let me know if the red eng indicator or CEL are different
Here is wiring diagram for the red Engine ind
by equivalent
-----------
Oil Pressure Circuit Operation 87-96 F Series & Bronco; "...In recent years, Ford Motor Company has been doing something I view as a bit sneaky. They have taken the oil pressure gauge and turned it into a glorified warning light. It says it's an oil pressure gauge, it looks like an oil pressure gauge, but in reality it is not. starting in 1986 a change was made on some models that altered the function of the oil pressure gauge as we knew it. The variable resistance sending unit was replaced with an open/closed switch and an in-line 20 ohm resistor was installed between the gauge and the switch. Anytime you have more than 4.5 psi of oil pressure, the switch closes, completing the circuit from the gauge (with the 20 ohm resistor in-line) to ground. This then results in a gauge that reads just above the middle. As you can see, there is no variation to the gauge needle in this circuit. It will either read no oil pressure or half-scale (normal oil pressure). On this style of gauge circuit, if the oil pressure gauge reads in the middle, it is telling you only one thing - you have more than 4.5 psi of oil pressure. How much more is anyone's guess at that point. When oil pressure drops below 4.5 psi, the gauge will return to 0 and alert the driver of a problem...Ford released a TSB (#88-5-14) for 1987-1988 F Series and Broncos that called for converting the variable resistive style oil pressure gauge circuit to the switch style circuit - if the customer complained of low or erratic oil pressure readings. The kit contains an oil pressure switch and an in-line 20 ohm resistor that is to be connected between the end of the existing sending unit signal wire and the new switch. The variable resistance oil pressure unit removed from the vehicle is then discarded. I want to point out some diagnostic problems that can arise from this circuit. First, if you are working on this switch style oil pressure circuit (with the in-line 20 ohm resistor) and install a variable resistive sending unit in place of the oil pressure switch, the result will be a gauge that reads lower than normal due to having two resistors in series, the fixed 20 ohm in-line resistor and the variable resistive sending unit. On the other hand, installing the open/closed switch on a vehicle that incorporates the conventional oil pressure gauge circuit will result in a pegged gauge needle after starting the engine. Sometimes you can tell that you need a switch instead of the variable resistive sending unit by the presence of the in-line resistor a few inches from the switch connector. This is not a good rule of thumb though, since many vehicles have the fixed resistor on the back of the cluster, and some of the digital dashes have that circuit built into the cluster. To determine what style circuit you have, simply ground the sending unit wire with the key on. If the gauge reads exactly half-scale, you can be fairly sure you need a switch-style sender. If you ground the sender wire and the gauge pegs, a variable resistor-style sender is needed..."
Source: by James M
see my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=949 to test OP switch/gauge and Oil Pressure Mod to Actual PSI or add a gauge
Here is wiring diagram for the red Engine ind
by equivalent
-----------
Oil Pressure Circuit Operation 87-96 F Series & Bronco; "...In recent years, Ford Motor Company has been doing something I view as a bit sneaky. They have taken the oil pressure gauge and turned it into a glorified warning light. It says it's an oil pressure gauge, it looks like an oil pressure gauge, but in reality it is not. starting in 1986 a change was made on some models that altered the function of the oil pressure gauge as we knew it. The variable resistance sending unit was replaced with an open/closed switch and an in-line 20 ohm resistor was installed between the gauge and the switch. Anytime you have more than 4.5 psi of oil pressure, the switch closes, completing the circuit from the gauge (with the 20 ohm resistor in-line) to ground. This then results in a gauge that reads just above the middle. As you can see, there is no variation to the gauge needle in this circuit. It will either read no oil pressure or half-scale (normal oil pressure). On this style of gauge circuit, if the oil pressure gauge reads in the middle, it is telling you only one thing - you have more than 4.5 psi of oil pressure. How much more is anyone's guess at that point. When oil pressure drops below 4.5 psi, the gauge will return to 0 and alert the driver of a problem...Ford released a TSB (#88-5-14) for 1987-1988 F Series and Broncos that called for converting the variable resistive style oil pressure gauge circuit to the switch style circuit - if the customer complained of low or erratic oil pressure readings. The kit contains an oil pressure switch and an in-line 20 ohm resistor that is to be connected between the end of the existing sending unit signal wire and the new switch. The variable resistance oil pressure unit removed from the vehicle is then discarded. I want to point out some diagnostic problems that can arise from this circuit. First, if you are working on this switch style oil pressure circuit (with the in-line 20 ohm resistor) and install a variable resistive sending unit in place of the oil pressure switch, the result will be a gauge that reads lower than normal due to having two resistors in series, the fixed 20 ohm in-line resistor and the variable resistive sending unit. On the other hand, installing the open/closed switch on a vehicle that incorporates the conventional oil pressure gauge circuit will result in a pegged gauge needle after starting the engine. Sometimes you can tell that you need a switch instead of the variable resistive sending unit by the presence of the in-line resistor a few inches from the switch connector. This is not a good rule of thumb though, since many vehicles have the fixed resistor on the back of the cluster, and some of the digital dashes have that circuit built into the cluster. To determine what style circuit you have, simply ground the sending unit wire with the key on. If the gauge reads exactly half-scale, you can be fairly sure you need a switch-style sender. If you ground the sender wire and the gauge pegs, a variable resistor-style sender is needed..."
Source: by James M
see my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=949 to test OP switch/gauge and Oil Pressure Mod to Actual PSI or add a gauge
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kyle d
New member
i only have the engine light running and not the check engine light or the battery light, mine tries to start but only cranks and fuel pump constantly runs... 88 Bronco 4.9L
yo KYLE
you wrote; "but only cranks and fuel pump constantly runs" Does FP run with ingition key in OFF?
Fuel Pump Runs w/Ignition Switch Off in 84-95; or after grounding the FP terminal at the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC); FP relay and or EEC power relay is stuck closed;
do accessories (radio, etc.) turn on when turning key to accessory or run positions? if not; The ign switch actuator and or switch needs to be adjusted; pull off the black plastic cosmetic column shroud exposing a long ROD and with the key turned to RUN using a set of pliers, drive the ROD downward/forward and the vehicle will start with most key functions intact. i.e, RUN/NO START, OFF/LOCK, AUX..."
or does it run while cranking engine?
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test
Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
===
No Start, but Cranks and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams; "...This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why?
read more @ http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_ignition_module/distributor_mounted_module_1.php
Instead of buying a Spark Tester,
DIY; W/ an old spark plug and cut off the L-shaped tip; clean up the center electrode and surrounding metal with a bit of sandpaper. Drill a small hole in the thickest part of the metal
Use a metal ***** to attach a length of wire, a couple of feet, to the body of the spark plug. To the other end of the wire, solder or otherwise attach a big alligator clip. Since the tip is cut off, the spark will have to be stronger to jump the wider gap. It is harder for a spark to form in a compressed cylinder so it more accurately represents the spark performance under running conditions. With the engine off, remove the spark plug wire you wish to test from the spark plug. Attach the spark tester to the plug wire and connect the alligator clip to a good ground. Remember that the coil output can give you a very nasty shock, so make sure to wear thick gloves or use a rag to hold the tester, and not to touch the body of the car when the system is energized. Hold the tester away from the car body and use your remote starter switch or have an assistant start the car (or simply turn it over). You should get a healthy bluish white spark from the center post to the side of the spark tester. COIL; If your coil is already off the Bronco, you can bench test your coil. To set up the test, remove one spark plug wire from its plug, then remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket. Next put the spark plug back into the spark plug wire. Be careful not to let anything drop into the empty spark plug hole. Holding the plug wire with insulated pliers, find a spot on the engine that is a good and easily accessible grounding point. Pretty much any exposed metal, including the engine itself, will do. Holding the spark plug wire with your pliers, touch the threaded portion of the spark plug to the grounding point. Have somebody crank the engine with the key, and look for a bright blue spark to jump across the spark plug gap. If you see a nice, bright spark (clearly visible in daylight) your coil is doing its job.
Source: by miesk5
EEC Power Relay Test in all pre-92, w/ No Start Condition, BROWN Connector; "...The EEC Power Relay not only supplies Battery Voltage to the Fuel Injection Computer (also known as the E.E.C. Electronic Control Assembly), but also supplies power to the Fuel Injectors, the Fuel Pump Relay, and a few other emissions related solenoids. The EEC Power Relay is easy to recognize because it's usually a Brown color. If the EEC Power Relay has already been replaced, you can still recognize it by its Brown colored connector..." READ MORE http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/relays/eec_relay/eec_power_relay_1.php
you wrote; "but only cranks and fuel pump constantly runs" Does FP run with ingition key in OFF?
Fuel Pump Runs w/Ignition Switch Off in 84-95; or after grounding the FP terminal at the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC); FP relay and or EEC power relay is stuck closed;
do accessories (radio, etc.) turn on when turning key to accessory or run positions? if not; The ign switch actuator and or switch needs to be adjusted; pull off the black plastic cosmetic column shroud exposing a long ROD and with the key turned to RUN using a set of pliers, drive the ROD downward/forward and the vehicle will start with most key functions intact. i.e, RUN/NO START, OFF/LOCK, AUX..."
or does it run while cranking engine?
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test
Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
===
No Start, but Cranks and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams; "...This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why?
read more @ http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_ignition_module/distributor_mounted_module_1.php
Instead of buying a Spark Tester,
DIY; W/ an old spark plug and cut off the L-shaped tip; clean up the center electrode and surrounding metal with a bit of sandpaper. Drill a small hole in the thickest part of the metal
Use a metal ***** to attach a length of wire, a couple of feet, to the body of the spark plug. To the other end of the wire, solder or otherwise attach a big alligator clip. Since the tip is cut off, the spark will have to be stronger to jump the wider gap. It is harder for a spark to form in a compressed cylinder so it more accurately represents the spark performance under running conditions. With the engine off, remove the spark plug wire you wish to test from the spark plug. Attach the spark tester to the plug wire and connect the alligator clip to a good ground. Remember that the coil output can give you a very nasty shock, so make sure to wear thick gloves or use a rag to hold the tester, and not to touch the body of the car when the system is energized. Hold the tester away from the car body and use your remote starter switch or have an assistant start the car (or simply turn it over). You should get a healthy bluish white spark from the center post to the side of the spark tester. COIL; If your coil is already off the Bronco, you can bench test your coil. To set up the test, remove one spark plug wire from its plug, then remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket. Next put the spark plug back into the spark plug wire. Be careful not to let anything drop into the empty spark plug hole. Holding the plug wire with insulated pliers, find a spot on the engine that is a good and easily accessible grounding point. Pretty much any exposed metal, including the engine itself, will do. Holding the spark plug wire with your pliers, touch the threaded portion of the spark plug to the grounding point. Have somebody crank the engine with the key, and look for a bright blue spark to jump across the spark plug gap. If you see a nice, bright spark (clearly visible in daylight) your coil is doing its job.
Source: by miesk5
EEC Power Relay Test in all pre-92, w/ No Start Condition, BROWN Connector; "...The EEC Power Relay not only supplies Battery Voltage to the Fuel Injection Computer (also known as the E.E.C. Electronic Control Assembly), but also supplies power to the Fuel Injectors, the Fuel Pump Relay, and a few other emissions related solenoids. The EEC Power Relay is easy to recognize because it's usually a Brown color. If the EEC Power Relay has already been replaced, you can still recognize it by its Brown colored connector..." READ MORE http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/relays/eec_relay/eec_power_relay_1.php
kyle d
New member
FP only runs with key ON.. I swapped out FP Relay with my other running bronco and it still constantly ran, I can hear liquid when it is running like a leak but I don't see one. I bought this truck and the wiring is rigged every way possible, it's a big mess, I don't know to much and have limited tools and no money, I pulled the EEC out and peeked inside and has one piece that's burnt. My FP is in the frame. Oh, with key off I can't leave my battery connected cause it drains all the juice, all doors closed and lights off so it's not accessory. I will check the EEC Power Relay though I forgot about that.
kyle d
New member
I just realized, I checked the EEC Power Relay (you said it was the brown one). I guess i should check the right plug now!
yo KYLE, OK
Connector pic, GREEN Connector in all pre-92; Ford-style relays (BROWN socket = EEC power; GREEN socket = fuel pump) are notorious for causing intermittent failures in the EEC & fuel pumps
What year and engine do you have?
Wiring Diagram in 87-89 Bronco & F series (Mitchell); miesk5 Note; in an 89, G801 is located on the LH inner fender behind the headlamp & both pumps Grounds join @ Splices S155 & S903; (at pumps); Wiring Diagrams in 87-89 Bronco & F series (Mitchell); MIESK5 Note, page 2 shows the 4.9 EEC and injectors, etc.; page 3 and on
Source: by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/280829
Pump Runs w/Ignition Switch Off; "...The relay probably has the points welded. & Wiring Diagram in an 89 5.0, 5.8 & 7.5 from Ignition Switch & Fuse Link N through EEC Power Relay; miesk5 Note; G801 is located on the LH inner fender behind the headlamp & both pumps Grounds join @ Splices S155 & S903
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/20547-fuel-pump-wont-shut-off/
Pump Runs w/Ignition Switch Off; or after grounding the FP terminal at the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC); FP relay and or EEC power relay is stuck closed; do accessories (radio, etc.) turn on when turning key to accessory or run positions? if not; The ign switch actuator and or switch needs to be adjusted; a timer circuit in the PCM will open the ground circuit to the fuel pump relay, causing the fuel pump relay contacts to OPEN; if PCM is burnt & inop now, the timer circuit will not open the FP relay and pump will continue to run;
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/648663
Connector pic, GREEN Connector in all pre-92; Ford-style relays (BROWN socket = EEC power; GREEN socket = fuel pump) are notorious for causing intermittent failures in the EEC & fuel pumps
What year and engine do you have?
Wiring Diagram in 87-89 Bronco & F series (Mitchell); miesk5 Note; in an 89, G801 is located on the LH inner fender behind the headlamp & both pumps Grounds join @ Splices S155 & S903; (at pumps); Wiring Diagrams in 87-89 Bronco & F series (Mitchell); MIESK5 Note, page 2 shows the 4.9 EEC and injectors, etc.; page 3 and on
Source: by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/280829
Pump Runs w/Ignition Switch Off; "...The relay probably has the points welded. & Wiring Diagram in an 89 5.0, 5.8 & 7.5 from Ignition Switch & Fuse Link N through EEC Power Relay; miesk5 Note; G801 is located on the LH inner fender behind the headlamp & both pumps Grounds join @ Splices S155 & S903
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/20547-fuel-pump-wont-shut-off/
Pump Runs w/Ignition Switch Off; or after grounding the FP terminal at the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC); FP relay and or EEC power relay is stuck closed; do accessories (radio, etc.) turn on when turning key to accessory or run positions? if not; The ign switch actuator and or switch needs to be adjusted; a timer circuit in the PCM will open the ground circuit to the fuel pump relay, causing the fuel pump relay contacts to OPEN; if PCM is burnt & inop now, the timer circuit will not open the FP relay and pump will continue to run;
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/648663
kyle d
New member
I have an 88 4.9L. My accesories (radio mainly) arent there, i never thought to see if air would kick on though.
kyle d
New member
The air does turn on, needs a new fan but it does kick on. I have to try and get that other relay off to try it, its stuck to the mount.
yo K,
Stuck = corrosion may be holding it in there
Some swap to later year BOSCH style relays that are more dependable.
EEC Power & Fuel Pump Relay Color Codes for Troubleshooting/Swapping to Bosch Style Relays Source: by Steve
one tip for a quick and temp install is; "It's possible to just use common insulated flat blade terminals to connect the bare wires to the relay terminals without a socket, but it's not as secure or convenient.
"
kyle d
New member
Sorry for confusion, on the running bronco its just jammed into the mount but it works fine. Is there a possibility that the EEC is done? there is a ton of hot wiring from the previous owner, he overided the the smog, vacuum and everything air related, its just sitting there useless.
yo K man,
Sorry, I me\issed this "pulled the EEC out and peeked inside and has one piece that's burn"
That may be the issue;
capacitors are common probs in these EEC esp after over 20 years
FAILURE, EEC, Capacitor Repair in a 90 5.8: "... finally pulled the computer and, sure enough, two of the electrolytic capacitors had leaked. Not only were they shot, but the leaked electrolyte had begun corroding some pins on one of the semiconductors. The computer board is covered with a conformal coating to protect it against moisture and contamination, but the electrolyte had also seeped under or through that coating and discolored the board in places. First I cut out all three of the electrolytic capacitors, although only two of the three had leaked. Then I tried to clean the spilled electrolyte. To remove the corrosive electrolyte I had to strip off the conformal coating where I saw board discoloration. I tried to clean the affected areas with rubbing alcohol, dilute acetone (used for finger nail polish remover), and WD-40. Also, one logic IC (integrated circuit) had three pins that were corroded by the electrolyte. I tried as best as I could to clean them mechanically. The two leaking capacitors were 47uF 16V, and the third a 10uF 63 volt. I didn't have these values on hand, but coincidentally I had just bought a hundred 22uFs with a 63V working voltage. So by paralleling two of the 22s I was able to get 44uFs, and in series I got an 11 uf. Electrolytic caps have a wide tolerance range anyway, so I hoped that would be good enough. The one problem was all the original caps were 105 C temperature, whereas my replacements are only 85 C. But my computer is behind the driver's kick panel, instead of in the engine compartment. So, I am hoping it will work, at least for a while. It was a pain to replace the caps! First, I found it difficult to solder the new, "paralleled" capacitors to the printed circuit board. Then, I wasn't sure how many layers the board had -- it's easy to overheat and ruin underlying layers. Finally, some of the copper pads to which the new caps were being soldered were also very close to fine-pitched copper traces. My finished "repair" is a real mess! But it seems to be working..." see pic
Source: by dolittle (seedpress) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
http://broncozone.com/topic/20788-fuel-delivery-problem/
next step is get a replacement EEC if the caps are leaking
get Ford part number from Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal; Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP. On-Line for Free at Ford. Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list." Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number ) from your B-pillar sticker or from the EEC itself). Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover. Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window by Ford http://www.motorcraftservice.com
Calibration Label pic on B-pillar in a 90
Source: by Seattle FSB
On eec
Source: by Seattle FSB
Other than pulling an eec from a yard queen (get $ back guarantee if bad)
Automotive Electronic Solutions - Bronco/Ford truck power train control module (PCM)/electronic engine control module (EEC) repair
http://aesmodules.com/
CARDONE® - Bronco/Ford truck remanufactured (I selected 96 for ex): Saginaw power steering pump & gear box, driveshafts w/new universal joints installed, PCMs
, distributor (also has new), MAF Sensor, smog pump, BW 1356 transfer case motor, tailgate window motor & side widow motors w/ new regulators, wiper motor, water pump, caliper, master cylinder, 4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit, vacuum booster, etc.
http://www.cardone.com/
Westers Garage - Bronco/Ford truck EEC; PCM chips & tuning
Various ECU's. We've got a couple hundred of them here. Listings to be added soon. Order by 4-letter code or ECM part number Contact Us
http://westersgarage.eidnet.ca/items.html
Standard Motor Products (SMP™, Standard, BWD, Hayden and Four Seasons Brands) - various Bronco/Ford truck ignition control modules; oxygen sensors; exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valves; fuel injectors/pressure regulators; a wide range of anti-lock brake, temperature, crankshaft, knock, MAP & throttle position sensors; remanufactured EECs, mass air flow sensors & gaskets
http://www.smpcorp.com/ROOT-Home/Content.aspx
Sorry, I me\issed this "pulled the EEC out and peeked inside and has one piece that's burn"
That may be the issue;
capacitors are common probs in these EEC esp after over 20 years
FAILURE, EEC, Capacitor Repair in a 90 5.8: "... finally pulled the computer and, sure enough, two of the electrolytic capacitors had leaked. Not only were they shot, but the leaked electrolyte had begun corroding some pins on one of the semiconductors. The computer board is covered with a conformal coating to protect it against moisture and contamination, but the electrolyte had also seeped under or through that coating and discolored the board in places. First I cut out all three of the electrolytic capacitors, although only two of the three had leaked. Then I tried to clean the spilled electrolyte. To remove the corrosive electrolyte I had to strip off the conformal coating where I saw board discoloration. I tried to clean the affected areas with rubbing alcohol, dilute acetone (used for finger nail polish remover), and WD-40. Also, one logic IC (integrated circuit) had three pins that were corroded by the electrolyte. I tried as best as I could to clean them mechanically. The two leaking capacitors were 47uF 16V, and the third a 10uF 63 volt. I didn't have these values on hand, but coincidentally I had just bought a hundred 22uFs with a 63V working voltage. So by paralleling two of the 22s I was able to get 44uFs, and in series I got an 11 uf. Electrolytic caps have a wide tolerance range anyway, so I hoped that would be good enough. The one problem was all the original caps were 105 C temperature, whereas my replacements are only 85 C. But my computer is behind the driver's kick panel, instead of in the engine compartment. So, I am hoping it will work, at least for a while. It was a pain to replace the caps! First, I found it difficult to solder the new, "paralleled" capacitors to the printed circuit board. Then, I wasn't sure how many layers the board had -- it's easy to overheat and ruin underlying layers. Finally, some of the copper pads to which the new caps were being soldered were also very close to fine-pitched copper traces. My finished "repair" is a real mess! But it seems to be working..." see pic
Source: by dolittle (seedpress) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
http://broncozone.com/topic/20788-fuel-delivery-problem/
next step is get a replacement EEC if the caps are leaking
get Ford part number from Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal; Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP. On-Line for Free at Ford. Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list." Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number ) from your B-pillar sticker or from the EEC itself). Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover. Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window by Ford http://www.motorcraftservice.com
Calibration Label pic on B-pillar in a 90
Source: by Seattle FSB
On eec
Source: by Seattle FSB
Other than pulling an eec from a yard queen (get $ back guarantee if bad)
Automotive Electronic Solutions - Bronco/Ford truck power train control module (PCM)/electronic engine control module (EEC) repair
http://aesmodules.com/
CARDONE® - Bronco/Ford truck remanufactured (I selected 96 for ex): Saginaw power steering pump & gear box, driveshafts w/new universal joints installed, PCMs
, distributor (also has new), MAF Sensor, smog pump, BW 1356 transfer case motor, tailgate window motor & side widow motors w/ new regulators, wiper motor, water pump, caliper, master cylinder, 4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit, vacuum booster, etc.
http://www.cardone.com/
Westers Garage - Bronco/Ford truck EEC; PCM chips & tuning
Various ECU's. We've got a couple hundred of them here. Listings to be added soon. Order by 4-letter code or ECM part number Contact Us
http://westersgarage.eidnet.ca/items.html
Standard Motor Products (SMP™, Standard, BWD, Hayden and Four Seasons Brands) - various Bronco/Ford truck ignition control modules; oxygen sensors; exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valves; fuel injectors/pressure regulators; a wide range of anti-lock brake, temperature, crankshaft, knock, MAP & throttle position sensors; remanufactured EECs, mass air flow sensors & gaskets
http://www.smpcorp.com/ROOT-Home/Content.aspx
Last edited by a moderator:
kyle d
New member
Even though i need a new EEC, i checked the other day and the spark plugs were in the wrong order, so I have fixed those and have yet to see if it starts, just thought i should let someone know 
