yo BART,
WELCOME!
EDIT; I lost Comcast cable and this didn't make it in my reply;
Apply lubricant to the weatherstrips at every lubrication period. Its use makes the glass to move within weatherstrip channels, avoids weatherstrip squeaks, retards weatherstrip wear, and helps to retain glass alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and rubber weatherstrip..."
miesk5 Note, Use PTFE grease for slides & tracks. Use silicone spray on the weatherbelts & glass run; stest the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China.
**** the regulator gears while you have access.
Pull motor & check gears & their "torque pins", see below for more info; they often wear out; see Jeff's pn below
Motor Gear Replacement; "...This is the repair kit (DOAZ-62234A24-B , but you can also use 1/4" fuel hose with thin plastic tubing inside to reinforce it & cut to length, or even appropriately-sized nuts to fill in where the original rubber insulators (torque pins) were. There are also aftermarket suppliers of the delrin bushings visible inside the gear assembly, and they cost ~$5 for the kit. The pointers show what's left of the rubber insulators, which probably degraded faster due to the excessive grease inside the gear. As the new part demonstrates, NONE is required inside the white plastic gear. The metal & nylon gears simply slide up off the shaft. The kit includes grease to **** the central shaft & the outer teeth of the new gear before installation. Reattach the seal plate, & reinstall the motor on the regulator. Push or pull the glass slightly to align the gears so the motor mounting holes will line up. **** the regulator gears while you have access. There's also an aftermarket repair kit available from any parts store that deals in MotorMite HELP! parts - it's just the 3 delrin bushings (green pointer), and you stuff them into your gears. Advance charges ~$8 for them, which is a rip-off price. Many people just drop 3 steel nuts in; they'll never wear out. You can also use sections of coil spring cut to length, thick rubber hose with something inside to keep it from collapsing, or even just fill the gears with epoxy..." in upper left click Next for next pics and captions
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/160906
This is it w/torque pins installed by JEFF's
Motor Gear Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Info & pic; "...fixed it for free some fuel line and a few small cunks of a bolt. Here is a closeup of the bad parts. in the points of the triangle there should be 3 round pins. this help cousion the window from motor shock. I cleaned all the old grease out of the motor and the final drive. my final drive was fine so i was going to reuse it. To rebuild for almost free here is all you need. some fuel line and some steel rod or round spacer (this keeps the fuel line from colapsing completely) i cut the fuel line to the height of the drive gear housing and cut the spacers from round stock i had on the bench. the steel spacers go inside of the rubber fuel line. then the rubber fuel line and steel spacers go in the final drive gear.this was a tight fit but not too tight..."
by Michael C (collinsperformance, The Money Monster) at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/6364/52803
A low-cost & reliable repair is to replace the degraded Delrin bushings in the motor's drive gear with common 1/4" nuts (thread pitch doesn't matter). Grease is only necessary on the central shaft & the outer plastic gear teeth - not in the pockets where the nuts go.
Motor Gear Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Replacement
by felixx68 at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/22531/74560
Motor Replacement; "...If the motor runs but doesn't move the glass, push the glass up for access. The glass is strong enough to support its own weight fully extended, but no extra weight..." miesk5 note, I use a standard height saw horse with a blanket folded to support da glass.. make sure the tailgate is resting DOWN fully (horizontally) by pushing or sitting on it before pulling glass out by hand (or closing driver side Latch by hand and using Key sw or driver's Dash switch to energize motor) and sliding saw horse under da glass...the cables need to fully stretched...& in his #7; "If the motor doesn't run, remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side - see below) that hold the regulator tracks to the glass brackets. Bend the regulator arms down slightly to pull the studs out of the brackets, and then push the glass up. Remember to FULLY lower the glass before lifting or closing the t/g..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12689
Latch Safety Switch "...This is the switch on the driver's latch that prevents the motor from operating with the tailgate open. Ford put it here from ~85 until 96. Before that, it was on the center mechanism and was sensitive to EITHER latch being open. To permanently defeat it (and risk breaking the t/g glass), unplug its connector & install a jumper wire between the 2 sockets.." NOTE; The safety switch was moved from the tailgate handle to the left latch by 1983 by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W)
btw;
OUR SPONSOR,
Jeff's Bronco Graveyard has;
----------
Window Motor Gear Repair Kit
# 34554
1980-95 Ford Bronco Round Body Motor
Price: $18.00
Window Regulator Bracket Bushings (4 Per Window) 34556 1980-96 Ford Bronco
Each Price: $6.00
Window Track, Left or Right Side OEM # 345581980-96 Ford Bronco Price: $75.00
Glass Run Channels\Tailgate Track Glass Run Channels
# 34559
New
1980-96 Ford Bronco
Pair
Price: $14.00
..
Tailgate Track Glass Run Channels # 34559 1980-96 Pair Price: $14.00
etc.
Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order
Troubleshooting Synopsis; "...The tail gate circuit is pretty easy to resolve with a meter. Attached is a diagram of the circuit. Note that there are two fuses which you may have already found out. One powers the dash switch which is powered only when the key is in RUN or ACC. The other powers the tail gate switch and that line is hot at all times. If the motor is definitely good, (which can be verified by using a set of jumper leads directly to the motor connector). Once it is verified that the motor works then the common problems are: 1. The Latch Safety switch in the left side latch, This is often a problem when the tail gate fails from both switches.(you can pull the connector and jumper it out, which many people leave permanently jumpers out). The problem can be as easy as the latch needs adjustment. So if the jumper makes it work then either leave it jumped, adjust the latching stud for a tighter fit, or replace the latch switch if testing indicates it is bad. The function of the switch is to make sure the tail gate is latched before putting the window up. I like it bypassed because it makes it easy to get the window out of the way when working inside the tail gate. I think I'm smart enough to put the window back down before closing the tail gate . The only suggestion if leaving it jumped is to support the window if it is in the up position with the tail gate down. Else it could be broken by someone leaning on it. 2. The ground return for the tail gate switch uses the same two lines the dash switch does, (the grounding point is under the dash. The dash switch changes the function of the two leads running to the tail gate window motor by grounding one and putting 12V on the other. The tail gate switch uses the two leads for the ground connection, (it requires the dash switch to be in the neutral position in order to work). Depending on the year of the truck there are 2 or 3 connectors involved that often get corroded, sometimes to the point that the wires break off the connector. In your truck, there is on connector behind the left tail light, the next common failing connector is the one on the left side of the rear frame crossover member, (it is gray, if you can still see the color, and just under and behind the bumper). So to make it short, if you can operate the motor with a set of jumper leads and the window goes up and down that way, then the problem is a connection or the Latch Safety Switch. If you can't get the tail gate open to work on it, crawl in the back and remove the tail gate panel and find the motor leads attached along the bottom edge of the opening. Disconnect them and use a long set of leads or another battery in the back with you to test the motor. Once the window is down you can open the gate to make it more comfortable to work on the problem. In the diagram you will see a black with white striped wire that goes to the tail gate key switch, you should have 12V there at all times. To get at it, you will need the window in the up position. The other two leads, (with the dash switch in the center position) should indicate that they are grounded when doing a continuity check of them). You can also check the entire path from dash switch to the tail gate key switch by using a meter and probing the wires the purple with light green stripe and the dark green with light green stripe. Have someone (with the key in RUN or ACC) moving the Dash switch from UP to Down while you check those leads for 12V. If you don't get 12V then the problem is in a connector between the two switches or a broken wire (a broken wire would most likely be where they transition between the body and tail gate due to constant flexing). The procedure would be; 12V missing on one of the wires, move back to the connector behind the tail light (missing there), move to the connector on the cross member (missing there) move back to the connectors in front, until you find where you have 12V on the line you are probing. Once you find 12V the problem is between the last point probed and where you find 12V..." MIESK5 Note, For the motor test; try using a cordless power tool's 12v battery with jumpers
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
http://broncozone.com/topic/7671-tailgate-window-switch/
