89 Bronco replacement ignition system. Which is the best

I have an 89 ford bronco 351 and I would like to replace the ignition system distributor, coil and control module. Whats the best direct replacement?

The factory system is the best, if you don't have any other modifications to the engine.

Why do you need to replace the entire system?

yo,

I agree w/RON.

For example;

High Quality Motorcraft TFI Ignition Coil Attributes

Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB)

Many Bronco owners shop for an ignition coil by looking for the highest voltage available. But I venture to say that there is much more to look for in achieving both a quality ignition system and saving money in the long run.

For clarification, it takes approximately 10-14,000 volts to initiate the spark across the OEM spark plug gap. After the initial arc, the voltage required to sustain the arc is much less and drops off significantly. So while you may have a 48,000v coil you can't actually get that across the plug. The extra power becomes reserve voltage which compensates for worn plugs, increasing resistance in wires and carbon fouling. This increased stress can require an additional 1-5000 volts.

Fact is a higher voltage coil does not work any better, it just lasts longer due to having a higher reserve reducing heat. You cannot push more than 20,000 volts across a spark plug without bad things happening. If you were to try you would see arcing down the side of the plug, across carbon buildups at the electrode end and out any weak points in the wire insulation and connections.

The bottom line is the ideal coil output required for normal applications is about 30,000 volts. So no, your coil does not need to be 48,000v for proper ignition. The benefit would be in having enough reserve to compensate for high resistance due to a worn or altered ignition system.

This is why the Sixlitre Tune recommends a 48,000v coil and larger spark plug wires – to compensate for a substantial increase in resistance from larger than specified spark plug gaps. You are adding resistance as the spark attempts to reach ground. This in turn causes the plug wires to break down and decreases the service life of the rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs and increases the chance of spark scatter within the Distributor Cap.

Think about it, you are setting your spark plugs at a maximum gap even before wear. The higher voltage coil does not reduce stress and wear on your ignition system; it only compensates within a larger margin and then ultimately becomes dependent upon the quality of construction for survival. When opening up your spark plug gap from factory specifications you must be prepared to check your secondary ignition system annually, as opposed to about 40,000 miles with a stock vehicle, or risk performance decreases down the road.

With that being said, IMHO the Motorcraft DG470 TFI Coil is one of the most dependable 48,000v TFI Coils on the market. This is largely due to the quality in design, testing and construction. I have personally had many dependability issues with other imported TFI Coils, such as MSD. Where a Motorcraft Coil has lasted 15 years, I have went through three MSD coils in five years. Your purchase of a TFI Coil should not be totally dependent upon the voltage, but strong consideration should also be made regarding the contruction attributes listed below:

High Quality Motorcraft TFI Ignition Coil Attributes

Insulation - Multiple coats on the primary and secondary windings to ensure no internal arcing

Radio-Frequency Interference (RFI) Suppression - Minimize electronic noise

Magnets - Hold strength for the coil to maintain proper energy output

Steel - Used in the lamination stack to ensure a consistent magnetic field needed to develop the required voltage

Coil Housing - Engineered to withstand extremes in temperature without cracking

Low Quality TFI Ignition Coil Potential Issues

Rough Running Engine or Misfires - Causing Check Engine Light

Fuel Economy and Power Decrease – Costs money and performance

Radio Frequency Interference – Affects radio, EEC, sensors, cell phone

Pre-Ignition and Detonation – Can cause engine damage

Weak Voltage Output – Can cause increase tailpipe emissions

I get my Ford parts via AMAZON; they are VG at delvy and esp pricing; I bought a $150.00 DPFE Sensor (not incl. sales tax) for $50.00 with free shipping and no state sales tax; same for the IAC sensor.

Get basic Ford pn for component needed @ Ignition Components, Wire & Cable , etc. Parts Catalog - it is 54MB pdf file

http://www.fordinstallersupport.com/files/catalogs/ewc200.pdf

go to page 253

then google the part number for sources and best $ w/shipping

also Check our sponsor Jeff's Bronco Graveyard @ http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-1017-distrubutors-ignition.html

Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.

Rough idle on start up, rough take off. It has been dieing in the summer time when it gets really hot,just shut down let it cool down for a while and it will start back up and run till it reaches its peak temp and it would shut down again. I replaced the fuel pump(rail),control module. It was still doing the same thing so I relocated the control module to keep it cool. I thought that had fixed it. NO. It was hot over 80 a day not long ago and it did it again. So I changed the coil pick up in the distributor. It has not been hot enough yet to tell if that fixed it. It still has the rough idle and take off. Looking at the next option ?????

There may be a fuel problem as well. Do you have a carb or injected?

IS there a miss at idle that you can isolate?

I would check for codes. The ECT (engine coolant temp. sensor) can go bad and cause an engine to shut down when it reaches higher temps. I replaced the ignition componants, only to find that the ECT was the problem.