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Starts, runs, dies, starts

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 03:30 PM

I have a 96 full size bronco. It starts, ill drive for a while, dies after a while, and it will start again after about 5-10 mins after just sitting there not trying to start again. It comes and goes. Sometimes it won't die while running. Sometimes if I try to start it right after I drove it for a while then it won't start. I'll have to let it sit again for about 5-10 mins, doing nothing to it, then it'll start. I was told it was the fuel filter but I changed that and it still does the same thing. Can anyone help me?

#2 Krafty


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Posted 17 February 2012 - 03:38 PM

spark plugs wires cap and rotor. my truck did that same thing for a while, then with new plugs it hasnt done it since

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 04:49 PM

Hi CO.., welcome...!
That has the "ear-markings" of a failing coil. There are ways of testing it via an ohms meter. Auto parts stores can usually do that for you.
Could be something as simple as a lose wire.

No clue if FI or Carb. but fuel blockage/delivery is still a possibility. You can carry a can of starter fluid....., if it re-starts using that, it's a fuel issue.
Fuel pump(s) working OK..?
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#4 Rons beast

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 04:51 PM

Next time it won't start check for spark. It's not uncommon for the ignition module to cause and intermittent starting problem, especially when warm.
A fuel filter would be clogged all the time not clogged then unclogged, then clogged again.

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 05:09 PM

@ krafty: thanks I will try doing all that.

@ bully bob: fuel pump is working fine. I will get the others checked.

@ rons beast: I was told that it might have something to do with the ignition. I will get that checked as well.

Thanks for all the tips.

#6 miesk5



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Posted 18 February 2012 - 05:56 AM

f you can get it to a parts store, have it scanned for codes for Free; no matter what they may say, have them do both tests; The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER). The KOER portion is often referred to as the I/M Readiness Monitor Status; it shows whether the various emissions-related systems on the vehicle are operating properly and are ready for Inspection and Maintenance testing.

"State and Federal Governments enacted Regulations, Procedures and Emission Standards to ensure that all emissions-related components and systems are continuously or periodically monitored, tested and diagnosed whenever the vehicle is in operation. It also requires vehicle manufacturers to automatically detect and report any problems or faults that may increase the vehicle's emissions to an unacceptable level.

The vehicle's emissions control system consists of several components or sub-systems (Oxygen Sensor, Catalytic Converter, EGR, Fuel System, etc.) that aid in reducing vehicle emissions.

To have an efficient Vehicle Emission Control System, all the emissions-related components and systems must work correctly whenever the vehicle is in operation.

To comply with State and Federal Government regulations, vehicle manufacturers designed a series of special computer programs called "Monitors" that are programmed into the vehicle's computer. Each of these Monitors is specifically designed to run tests and diagnostics on a specific emissions-related component or system (Oxygen Sensor, Catalytic Converter, EGR Valve, Fuel System, etc.) to ensure their proper operation. Currently, there are a maximum of eleven Monitors available for use.

(NOTE) Each Monitor has a specific function to test and diagnose only its designated emissions-related component or system. The names of the Monitors (Oxygen Sensor Monitor, Catalyst Monitor, EGR Monitor, Misfire Monitor, etc.) describe which component or system each Monitor is designed to test and diagnose.

I/M Readiness Monitor Status shows which of the vehicle's Monitors have run and completed their diagnosis and testing, and which ones have not yet run and completed testing and diagnosis of their designated sections of the vehicle's emissions system.

· If a Monitor was able to meet all the conditions required to enable it to perform the self-diagnosis and testing of its assigned engine system, it means the monitor "HAS RUN.”

· If a Monitor has not yet met all the conditions required for it to perform the self-diagnosis and testing of its assigned engine system; it means the Monitor "HAS NOT RUN.”

(NOTE) The Monitor Run/Not Run status does not show whether or not a problem exists in a system. Monitor status only indicates whether a particular Monitor has or has not run and performed the self-diagnosis and testing of its associated system."

Spark Tester
I strongly suggest you buy the KD Tools 2756 HEI Spark Tester. Click here to see what it looks like. The HEI Spark Tester helps in the diagnosis of the Ignition System by stress testing the Ignition Coil and any other component between it and the Spark Plug (like: a Distributor Cap, Distributor Rotor, Ignition Cables, etc).

As you can see in the photo, the tester looks like a Spark Plug with some very big and obvious differences. The biggest one is that there's no ground electrode hovering over the center electrode. Instead, there's a huge air gap between its center electrode and its body.

When you connect the Spark Tester to the Spark Plug Cable or the Ignition Coil Boot (for Coil-on-Plug Systems) and crank the engine, the HEI Spark Tester forces the Ignition Coil to produce its maximum output so the spark can jump across the very large air gap. This action stress-tests the Ignition Coil.

voltage necessary to fire the HEI Spark Tester is around 35,000 volts. This kind of voltage produces a very bright and bluish spark that's also audible. This method of testing for spark is the best one and does not cause any damage to the components.

If the Ignition Coil or whatever component that is in between it and the Tester are on their last leg, you'll get a NO-SPARK result on the tester.

The beauty of this tool lies in the fact that you get one of only two results to interpret. Either a Spark jumping from the center electrode to the outside metal body or NO Spark. Thats it! It's a very easy tool to use.

So, lets say that you're testing the Ignition Coil and you got a No Spark Result. This would indicate that the Ignition Coil is faulty. To be absolutely certain, you would only need to check the Power and Control Circuits of the Coil. If the Coil is getting power and it's being pulsed by its control module, the Ignition Coil is BAD!

Next is
Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Black, Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD), Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); SEE site for diagrams
Whether your Ford or Mercury car or truck CRANKS but DOES NOT START or runs with a MISFIRE Condition, this article is for you. With the tests I'm gonna' show you, you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) or the Spark Plug Wires or the Distributor Cap
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#7 Brwbronco


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Posted 08 March 2012 - 10:36 AM

A cheap way to test the coil is set a long screwdriver in is and find a ground on wire or something then have it a little away form screwdriver (do this at night) and look to see if there is spark. But BE CAREFUL you can injure yourself with this method. Just thought I'd pass along some knowledge that someone passed to me.

#8 jehusafat


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Posted 26 March 2012 - 07:46 AM

Could be either fuel pumps had an issue like that a while back and ended up being both fuel pumpson my 89. I would drive for a little bit then would cut out and had to wait like you do
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