fuel system help

Hi, New guy here, have a problem identifying a part in the fuel system, we have a 89 with the 5.8, with external fuel pump. along the framerail there is a blk canister with what looks like a removable cup put clearly says do not remove, I was hoping the leak was going to be just a fuel line clip gone bad, but see it is leaking at the seam of the canister, don't know if there is a fix? or if it can be eliminated?

What you are describing may be a fuel reservoir. It is usually located along the frame rail, and varies depending on whether you have dual or single fuel tanks.

OK went out & got a pic, a little big didn't resize it

hope it helps clarify & give me an idea what direction to proceed

Ok Looks like 3 lines on it. Are you sure the reservoir is leaking and not one of the lines attached to it? If so only one way to go... replace it. You cannot bypass it.

If the lines are leaking you may be able to replace the "O" rings and be ok.

It's a PITA but ya gotta clean it good and put a good eye on it to determine the leak.

Be sure to release preasure in the system before disconnecting any lines.

Probably need to get the part from a dealer. I haven't found any local parts stores that stock it or even show it in their inventory

Good luck

there is 4 lines, 2 in 2 out, had it all dry and it started at the seam & weeped up a little, mostly down.

If it has to be replaced, Where can you find 1? I can't find anyone in this area that can find it using the part # most had no idea what I was talking about.

also when running it drips once about every 15 sec. how much pressure is this under? wondering if it's ok to drive.

and what is it's purpose?? that it can't be bypassed??

The reservoir holds fuel so in the event that the fuel pickup in the tank is uncovered, there is a fuel supply for the high preasure pump. Fuel injection requires continous high preasure fuel. A moment of fuel starvation would mean a stumbling motor and/or loss of prime to the fuel rail. ( your truck probably also has an in the tank pump as well as the exterior pump)

Since the Bronc was sitting for a long time the body must be rusted just enough to leak.

Have you tried a dealer? This is most likely a dealer only part, as they were used only on early FI Trucks.

Find a parts guy with the time to help you out.

Great, Thanks for the Help. Calling a buddy of my sons, that has a couple parts trucks, keeping my fingers crossed

yo,

Single-Function Reservoir O Ring; "The Ford engineering number on the filter is E6TZ-9365-A. A reservoir marked "DO NOT REMOVE CUP" does not contain a filter. For a replacement O-ring for the cup, buy a NAPA 3268 (or equivalent) filter..."



Single-Function Reservoir Testing in 88-89; "...Used on '88-89 Broncos & F-series/E-series/Rangers/others with single tank dual-pump EFI. In this version, the only moving part is the tank-side inlet check valve. The return ports flow freely and are NOT connected to the reservoir. The engine-side supply port is open to the reservoir. To test it, unplug the frame fuel pump, disconnect the engine-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the reservoir ******, the reservoir is working normally. If not, disconnect the tank-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the line, the reservoir check valve is probably stuck, or its internal filter is clogged

For more info, see this album:

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/2742/66025

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/2742/66025-4

Single-Function Reservoir Overview; "...Dual fuel pump systems must have a fuel accumulator between them. The model from BC Broncos is a multi-tasking wonder. Fuel accumulators store fuel from the low-pressure pump for the high-pressure pump. Storing fuel is a great idea for rock crawlers, as the accumulator holds a reserve of fuel, just in case gravity temporarily affects the gas tank. Accumulators also equalize fuel flow between the pumps. If one pump is pushing 72GPH and the other is only flowing 50GPH, something has to give. Once the accumulator is full, excess fuel flows out to the return fuel line, and back to the tank. This keeps the low-pressure pump from stressing the high-pressure pump. Normal accumulators stop there, but not the model from BC Broncos. They built one starting with a fuel filter. You get the accumulator and the filter all in one $70 package..."

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50 at http://fordfuelinjection.com/Inject_your_horse3.pdf

Single-Function Reservoir Overview, Location & O Ring Installation in an 86; "Mine is under the T-Case skid plate on the drivers frame rail, it's black plastic with a ***** style thread top & bottom which uses an O ring and a hockey puck style filter with a hole on one side, hole side goes up to the ****** inside the cap, both about $9.00 at any autochain. The "O" ring doesn't want to cooperate when putting it in place so use something tacky to keep it in place when you go to thread it back on otherwise you'll squish it and it will **** gas all over, also the bottom part needs to be threaded all the up without any gap at the top also will **** gas if incorrect. used a small model paint brush almost DRY with Permatex for the inside "O" ring track just to get it to set up to keep the "O" ring in place when screwing it back together and it worked fine, the amount of Permatex was insignificant with no potenial to impead anything, but use what ever you like. IIRC the Reservoir was designed to keep the fuel pumps supplied from starving when the vehicle is at different positions, cornering, off road driving etc..."

Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean )

Lastly for posterity and the possibility that the Bronco was sold in Canada and also for reference purposes

FSA 89S76 Cold Fuel Line Leak

Check the Ford website to see if your VIN is affected.



ISSUE: Ford Motor Company of Canada, Limited (Ford) has determined that certain 1986, 1987, 1988 and 1989 model F-150/250/350 Trucks and Broncos sold in specific areas of Canada where severe winter weather is experienced contain a fuel tube that may develop a leak.

Technical Instructions: The new stainless steel reinforced Teflon� fuel line replaces both the short "jumper" fuel line from the high-pressure frame-mounted fuel pump to the filter, and the long fuel line from the filter to the fuel rail on the engine. The existing In-Line Fuel Filter will be removed and discarded. A canister-type Fuel Filter will be added to the existing fuel reservoir on the frame rail behind the high pressure pump.

NOTE: The frame mounted fuel filter was repositioned to between the fuel pump and engine during 1986 model year production. This was incorporated in February, 1986.

Fuel System Pressure Relief

EFI Engines

CAUTION: Fuel supply lines on 4.9L EFI, 5.0L EFI, 5.8L EFI and 7.5L EFI engines will remain pressurized for some period of time after the engine is shut off. This pressure must be relieved before servicing of the fuel system.

Before opening the fuel system on vehicles with EFI engines, relieve fuel pressure as follows:

1. Locate and disconnect the electrical connection to either the fuel pump relay, the inertia switch or the in-line high pressure fuel pump.

2. Crank engine for approximately ten seconds.

NOTE: Engine may start and run for a short time. If so, crank engine an additional five seconds after engine stalls.

3. Connect the electrical connector that was disconnected in Step 1.

4. Disconnect battery ground cable.

5. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to the appropriate model year Volume F, Pre-Delivery Shop Manual, Section 50-04, Hoisting and Jacking.

Canister-Type Fuel Filter Installation

CAUTION: If the fuel filter canister is being serviced with the rear of the truck higher than the front, or if the tank is pressurized, fuel leakage or siphoning from the tank fuel lines could occur. To prevent this condition, maintain the vehicle front end at or above the level of the rear of vehicle. Also, relieve tank pressure by loosening the fuel fill cap. Cap should be retightened after pressure is relieved. If vehicle is warm, install the fuel filter before the pressure rebuilds.

1. Remove the reservoir shield on 4 x 4 vehicles by removing either three or four screws (depending on vehicle). On 4 x 4 vehicles it may be necessary to disconnect the rear of the front driveshaft to allow for tool clearance.

NOTE: To maintain driveshaft balance, mark the rear slip yoke in relation to the transfer case yoke for correct positioning during reinstallation. Then remove the nuts and U-bolts (bolts for F350 transfer case) that connect the front driveshaft to the rear slip yoke of the transfer case.

2. Unscrew the lower canister of the reservoir using a flexible strap type oil filter wrench, and slide canister out from frame rail.

NOTE: Fuel canister will be full of fuel.

3. Empty fuel from the fuel canister. Remove and discard the O-ring.

4. Remove the stand pipe from the reservoir by pulling it down sharply. Discard the stand pipe.

5. Install grommet (supplied with filter) into top of filter cartridge, then install the fuel filter cartridge into fuel canister.

6. Position new O-ring so that it is seated in the O-ring groove of the canister.

7. While keeping canister level, so as not to dislodge O-ring, position canister to bottom of reservoir housing and tighten loosely by hand. It may be necessary to loosen reservoir-to-frame mounting bolts to access the canister. Using a flexible strap type oil filter wrench, complete filter canister tightening by turning canister about one-sixth of a turn past initial O-ring compression.

NOTE: The rubber grommet on the filter will automatically seat on the piloted stud of the upper housing as the canister is tightened.

REMINDER: If reservoir-to-frame mounting bolts were loosened in above step, re-tighten.

Fuel Line Replacement:

CAUTION: Fuel lines may still contain fuel. Use caution when disconnecting.

1. Remove the three bolts holding the fuel filter bracket to the frame. Retain one bolt for subsequent use.

2. Disconnect "Push Connect" fitting at the high pressure pump outlet ****** by removing hairpin clip and twisting the line while pulling on it.

3. Using a 16 mm wrench for the fitting and a 14 mm wrench (on the boss of the fuel pump) for backup, unscrew outlet ****** from the front of the high pressure fuel pump. Discard ****** and copper sealing washer.

4. Install new copper washer (E6TZ-9374-A) on the new fuel pump ****** (E6TZ-9416-A). ***** this new ****** into the pump. Torque to 12-16 Nm (9-12 lb-ft), while keeping a 14 mm wrench (on the boss of the fuel pump) for backup.

5. Select the appropriate new fuel line as per Parts Ordering Information.

6. Remove red shipping plug on fuel pump outlet connector of the fuel line if present. Leave white shipping plug on for protection. Install the end of the fuel line with the small bell-shaped connector to the new fuel pump outlet ******. Push on to ****** until distinct click is heard or felt. Pull on line to test for and confirm retention. Engage the retainer clip to line and ****** by firmly pushing down on the clip.

NOTE: If fuel line removal is required use tool T90T-9550-B to release connector.

7. Route fuel line forward inside frame rail, following routing of fuel return line. Install clip N800558-S100 to retain fuel lines, by bolting to lower front bolt hole in frame, that was previously used for the fuel filter bracket. Use bolt from Step 1 and nut N620480-S100. Torque to 8-12 Nm (6-9 lbs. ft.) Ensure fuel line is pressed against frame rail web to clear automatic transmission shift linkage.

8. Disconnect the fuel supply line at the engine fuel rail as follows:

a) lift the tethered retaining clip off the coupling connection. Move it aside, leaving it hanging by its tether.

B) disconnect the fuel line spring lock coupling, using the proper special service tool.

9. 5.0L or 4.9L engines equipped vehicles. Remove the complete fuel supply line, filter and jumper fuel line as an assembly. Mutilate and scrap.

10. 5.8L or 7.5L engine equipped vehicles. Use a pair of diagonal side cutters to cut both ends of the fuel supply line flush with the foil insulation wrapping. This leaves the wrapped section of the original supply line in place, which is not to be disturbed. Use caution to avoid damaging fuel return line. Mutilate and scrap the ends of fuel lines, fuel filter and bracket and "jumper" fuel line.

11. Remove white shipping cap and connect fuel line to engine fuel rail. Install retainer clip previously removed in Step 8.

12. (5.0L or 4.9L) Strap new fuel line to existing fuel return line using tie straps 95874-S at 8" (20cm) intervals. Cut off excess tie strap length.

13. (5.8L or 7.5L) Strap new fuel line to existing fuel line insulation bundle. Locate tie straps 95874-S at 8" (20 cm) intervals. Ensure heat shield is installed as shown. Use additional strap to secure fuel line to shield. Cut off excess tie strap length. Slight excess fuel line length is allowed to form a "****" at the upper end of the fuel line near the engine.

14. Lower vehicle.

15. Reconnect battery ground cable.

16. Cycle ignition key to "ON" position 5 times at 2 second intervals to prime the fuel system. Inspect reservoir, pump ****** and fuel line connections for leaks (correct as required).

17. Start engine and reinspect the fuel system for leaks. (Correct as required).

18. (4 X 4 only) Reinstall fuel reservoir shield. Torque attaching bolts to 16-20 Nm (12-15 lb-ft).

19. (4 x 4 only) Reinstall driveshaft, if removed, making sure markings on rear slip yoke and transfer casing yoke line up so as to maintain driveshaft balance.

20. Mutilate and scrap all removed parts.

This Recall Supersedes and Replaces Safety Recall 88S57

Recall Time Limitation

None

Parts Return

No

LABOR ALLOWANCES

LABOR TIME: Install new fuel line from the high-pressure frame-mounted fuel pump to the engine and install filter in frame mounted reservoir 1.5 Hrs.

Administrative allowance 0.1 Hrs.

LABOR CODE: B

Great info, thanks for the replacement links, & how to fix the 1 we have