replacing my tps

i have a 89 bronco 302 wont idle on start idles very high when warmed up and kind of jumps on ond off the throttle when i have my foot off the gas, IM replacing the tps first to see if this fixes it do u have to remove the throttle body to get to it or does anyone have any tricks to getting to it that would save me some time thank you in advance /

yo,

Before you buy a new TPS

============[

try a Self Test for Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first & Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion

post any Code(s) found here;

==================

TPS Test, Operation, etc., Bronco & Ford - Warm the engine up. Shut engine off, and turn ignition on. With a voltmeter on the appropriate setting, probe the TPS center wire with the (+) probe, and ground the (-) probe. Adjust the throttle plate adjustment ***** so the voltmeter’s reading is 0.9 to 1.0V DC

Test, Operational Description & Parameters

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=30

TSB 89-14-07 TPS Screws

Publication Date: JULY 14, 1989

FORD: 1983-89 CROWN VICTORIA, MUSTANG, TEMPO, THUNDERBIRD

1984-89 ******

1986-89 TAURUS

LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1983-89 CONTINENTAL, COUGAR, GRAND MARQUIS, MARK VII, TOPAZ, TOWN CAR

1984-87 LYNX

MERKUR: 1985-89 ALL MERKUR LINES

LIGHT TRUCK: 1983-89 ALL LIGHT TRUCK LINES

ISSUE: All Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) mounting screws have a "Pozidrive" head. The "Pozidrive" head looks a lot like a Phillips ***** head. Use of a Phillips head screwdriver to remove a "Pozidrive" ***** will normally result in a rounded or damaged ***** head. Many technicians think it is an overtorqued or "frozen" *****. An adhesive was also used as a thread sealant starting with the 1988 model year. This adhesive requires still more effort to loosen and remove the *****.

ACTION: To prevent rounded or damaged ***** heads when servicing the TPS mounting screws, technicians should always use a #2 "Pozidrive" screwdriver.

TPS Replacement in an 86 Source: by Xris

thank you unfortanatly im young and nieve and allready bought one but im about to go do the test and c if i now have a spare

yo,

I was young and naive too and now

I am old and still naive.

We can save you $ in the future.

Ask away, there are many here with, what I consider expert experience and knowledge.

You'll need to be careful about the throttle body gasket pieces falling into intake manifold; so have rags ready to stuff in intake... and make sure they don't disappear in there or are left in-place.

Another thing that can give a high and/or a surging idle is a vacuum leak.

There are a number of tips on searching for a vacuum leak in that link to pull diagnostic codes that miesk5 so graciously supplied.

miesk5 thanks for that extra info regarding ...

<snip>ISSUE: All Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) mounting screws have a "Pozidrive" head. The "Pozidrive" head looks a lot like a Phillips ***** head. Use of a Phillips head screwdriver to remove a "Pozidrive" ***** will normally result in a rounded or damaged ***** head. ,<snip>

the plenum gasket is somewhat notorious for failing. how fast is it running? (RPM)

it comes and goes one day it will idle at 800 rpm the next day 1200 one night i came home put it in park and it hit 2200 and thank all yall for the advice

at 2200 rpm you're moving some air. if the tps does not fix it, i'm thinking your intake is leaking.

it comes and goes one day it will idle at 800 rpm the next day 1200 one night i came home put it in park and it hit 2200 and thank all yall for the advice.

i have the same issue but mine stays between 2000 to 2500 RPM even after warmup. i have a 1992 ford bronco fullsize with the 5.0L 302 V8 attached to the E40D tranny, and the 1356 BW transfer case. what are the steps and or ways to find a vaccum leak(possibilty)? i have pulled self test codes and only got a few. #565, #114, #542. none of those indicate a tachometer issue. i have not ran a KOER test yet because i do not know how to do it? is that why i have no codes for the tachometer or a tps problem?

yo Broncoguy09,

It would have been better to begin a new post your issue.

try a Self Test for Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first & Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion

post any Code(s) found here; by,

KOEO

&

KOER

DTC 565 "...The canister purge solenoid dangles in its vacuum line between the R side of the engine and the canister on the R frame rail, so its wiring could have hit the exhaust manifold..." by Steve83

DTC 565 Pin-Point Testing & Possible Causes

From Ford;

Possible causes:

Open harness (VPWR or CANP).

Damaged CANP solenoid.

Shorted (power to ground) harness.

Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (LESS LIKELY!!!)

Key on, engine off.

Disconnect appropriate CANP solenoid.

Measure voltage between VPWR at the CANP solenoid vehicle harness connector and battery ground.

Is the voltage greater than 10.5 volts?

Yes - GO to KD7

No - SERVICE open VPWR circuit. RECONNECT CANP solenoid. RERUN Quick Test

KD7 CHECK CANP RESISTANCE

Key off.

Disconnect appropriate CANP solenoid.

Measure CANP solenoid resistance.

Is resistance between 30 and 90 ohms?

Yes - GO to KD8

No - REPLACE CANP solenoid. RERUN Quick Test.

KD8 CHECK CONTINUITY OF CANP CIRCUIT

Key off.

Appropriate CANP solenoid disconnected. (some Fords have two)

Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.

Install breakout box (see Pin Outs below to check w/o this box), leave PCM disconnected.

You can just use a digital multimeter in place of the breakout box

Measure resistance between Test Pin 11, 15, 31 or 54 (refer to pinpoint test schematic ) at the breakout box and CANP circuit at the CANP solenoid vehicle harness connector.

Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?

Yes - GO to KD9

No - SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test

KD9 CHECK CANP CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND

Key off.

Appropriate CANP solenoid disconnected.

Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.

Disconnect Scan Tool from Data Link Connector (if applicable).

Measure resistance between Test Pin 11, 15, 31 or 54 (refer to pinpoint test schematic ) and Test Pins 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box.

Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?

Yes - GO to KD10

No - SERVICE short to ground. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.

KD10 CHECK CANP CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER

CANP solenoid disconnected.

Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.

Scan Tool disconnected from Data Link connector.

Measure resistance between Test Pin 11, 15, 31 or 54 (refer to pinpoint test schematic ) and Test Pins 37 and 57 at the breakout box.

Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?

Yes - REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box and Scan Tool. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.

No - SERVICE short to power. REMOVE breakout box and Scan Tool. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.

...

Overview, Failure Symptoms & Depiction, general; "...Vent fuel vapors from the carburetor bowl or fuel tank to the charcoal canister, and control the purging of these and other vapors from the fuel tank into the intake manifold when certain engine speed and temperature conditions are attained. Above idle, the mixture becomes very rich. Stumble on acceleration, poor fuel mileage, flooded charcoal canister and catalytic converter overheat can occur. Check for ruptured diaphragms inside the valve and misrouted or damaged hoses..."

Source: by tomco-inc.com

...

Again, if you don't have or can't find a break-out box. (E bay has em for $$$.00) you can also check the wires to the PCM directly

here are the EEC Connector Pin Outs, Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8; miesk5 Note, see his Connector Pin Diagram Link below)

http://fordfuelinjection.com/images/eec04.gif

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

pic



Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/831135/thumbnail/wiring9295.jpg

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Location pic in a 93 5.8



Source: by Bbronco311 at SuperMotors.net

SEE MY SITE @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=1015 FOR MORE Canister Purge Solenoid Valve (CanP/CPRV)Info LINKS

==============================

(O) =Key On Engine Off test

® =Key On Engine Running test

(M) =Memory code

-----------

114 (O,R) IAT sensor out of range

Possible causes:

- Low coolant level (ECT).

- Ambient temperature below 10�C (50�F)

- Faulty harness connector.

- Faulty sensor.

- Run engine for two minutes at 2000 rpm.

For No Starts:

- Check Resistance of Temperature Sensor - Engine Off

For vehicle stalls:

- Check that upper radiator hose is hot and pressurized.

- Rerun quick test.

==============

542 (O,M) Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on

Check

inertia fuel shutoff switch; behind passenger side kick panel

No Start:

Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch not reset or electrically open.

Open circuit between the fuel pump and FPM circuit connection to the power-to-pump circuit.

Poor fuel pump ground.

Fuel pump electrically open.

Engine Starts:

Fuel pump secondary circuit short to power.

Fuel pump relay contacts always closed.

Open in FPM circuit between PCM and connection to the power-to-pump circuit.

Left/front HO2S short to power (dual HO2S applications).

Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

==============

On idling engine; Check for vacuum leaks using a mechanic's stethoscope with the probe removed, or a short garden hose section. Don't spray flammables on a running engine. Also check: vacuum hoses; intake manifold gasket & throttle body; PCV line; vacuum reservoirs: EGR Sys Vacuum Tank & 2ndry air (coffee can); AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (plastic ball type), under dash & lines to heat/blend/etc. doors; power brake booster; cruise control ckt, etc & back to Vac Line T on intake manifold.

The vacuum gauge should show 18-22 in-Hg @ idle, and maintain a steady needle. Rev it up to ~2500 rpm, hold it steady, and you should see the needle drop, then slowly increase to a level close to the idle reading (though slightly lower is normal)..."

Normal Engine Vacuum at Idle; 15-22 in-Hg (-51 to -74 kPa ) in 96 Bronco-F-Series from 1996 All F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Vehicles Equipped with 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L or 7.5L Gasoline Engines, & 7.3L Diesel Engines Workshop Manual

Source: by Ford

Gauge Diagnosis - BEST!; Normal engine; Steady gauge 18"-20" at all speeds..." READ MUCH MORE

Source: by Craig U at http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm

The brake booster vac line is where most insert a T fitting for a vac gauge hook-up; you can leave it in permanently and run the new hose in thru the clutch blank plate and mount the gauge on dash/A Pillar, etc. for an "everyday MPG driving tool" and troubleshooter

Vacuum Gauge Tester Instructions

http://www.fordf150.net/howto/diagnoseengine.php

this is by William T; "...I have a vacuum gauge mounted right in the dash of my truck. I use it to also help determine the load my engine is under while driving, and to estimate fuel economy.

Here is the gauge mounted:..."

http://www.fordf150.net/images/mytruck/vacgauge.jpg

SEE MY SITE @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=907 for More Vacuum Line Routing Diagrams, Acronyms & Color Codes LINKs;

such as:

"...The vacuum hoses used in the passenger compartment control circuit are constructed from PVC plastic material. The vacuum hoses used in the engine compartment are constructed of Hytrel. Because of the materials used, the vacuum hoses should never be pinched off during diagnosis to locate a leak. Use Rotunda Vacuum Tester 014-R1054 or equivalent to locate vacuum leaks. A wood golf tee can be used as a plug when it is necessary to plug one end of a vacuum hose for leak test purposes..." from F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco, F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual

Source: by Ford

"...Use "Hard (Heavy Duty)" vacuum line for booster. Regular rubber hose such as used for WS washer fluid line will likely collapse after about say, 20 years. Inspect for any sign of kinking or collapse. Check vacuum draw available with a gauge connected between engine and booster. At idle, healthy engines draw somewhere between 17 and 22 in Hg. Check vacuum by depressing brake pedal firmly until it stops. The gauge should read a drop to approximately 10 in. Hg and then quickly recover to a normal reading. If vacuum takes too long to recover, there is a restriction in the volume, i.e.: fitting clogged or vacuum hose collapsed. Repair as necessary. While a defective booster will cause a hard pedal, a spongy or low pedal requires a hydraulic system check..."

Vac. Tree Location pic in a 94 5.8



Source: by joelb23 at SuperMotors.net

Vacuum Hose, Mini-Tube Service in Climate Control System in a 96; "...Measure the length of the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Cut a piece of standard 3mm (1/8-inch) ID vacuum hose approximately 25mm (1 inch) longer than the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Cut the mini-tube vacuum hose on each side of the damaged area and remove damaged portion of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Dip the mini-tube hose ends in Tetra Hydro Furan (THF) or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). Either of these solvents will act as a sealer for the repair of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Insert the ends of the mini-tube vacuum hose approximately 9mm (3/8 inch) into the ends of the standard 3 mm (1/8-inch) ID replacement vacuum hose. Shake the service joint after assembly to make sure solvent is dispersed and vacuum line is not blocked internally. Test system for a vacuum leak in area serviced..." from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco, F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual

Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal; Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP. On-Line for Free at Ford. Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list." Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker). Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover. Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window Source: by Ford motorcraftservice.com

yo,

My pc slowed dwn and I see that I missed this on the 542 Code; altho this is for diff year and diff code, the location may help if it is a HEGO Ground issue

Ground Location in an 89: "...it's not near the sensor. It sticks out of the loom of the wiring harness that traverses the back of the engine. You can find it by putting your hand around the loom and following it across the back of the engine. You can also use a mirror. I had to lay on top of the core support to reach mine. Trust me it's there. It serves only as a PCM ground for the O2 sensor. It isnt hooked to the sensor, it comes out of the PCM..."

Source: by j. r. Nice (J. R. N

Check for proper HEGO Ground; in Catalytic Converter Diagnosis TSB 91-12-11 for 86-91 Bronco, F Series, & Econoline

Publication Date: JUNE 12, 1991

LIGHT TRUCK: 1986-91 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES

1988-91 F SUPER DUTY, F47

ISSUE: Lack of power or a no start condition may be diagnosed as an exhaust restriction caused by a plugged catalytic converter. A plugged catalytic converter (internal deterioration) is usually caused by abnormal engine operation.

ACTION: Diagnose the catalytic converter to confirm internal failure. Refer to the Catalyst and Exhaust System Diagnostic Section, in the Engine/Emissions Diagnostic Shop Manual and the following procedures for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Lack of proper HEGO operation may cause, or be the result of a rich or lean fuel condition, which could cause additional heat in the catalyst. Perform self test KOEO and KOER, service any codes.

NOTE: IF TWO DIGIT CODES 41, 42, 85 OR THREE DIGIT CODES 171, 172, 173, 179, 181, 182, 183 AND 565 ARE RECIEVED, CHECK FOR PROPER HEGO GROUND.

If the HEGO ground is good, the following areas may be at fault:

* Ignition Coil

* Distributor Cap

* Distributor Rotor

* Fouled Spark Plug

* Spark Plug Wires

* Air Filter

* Stuck Open Injector

* Fuel Contamination Engine OIL

* Manifold Leaks Intake/Exhaust

* Fuel Pressure

* Poor Power Ground

* Engine Not At Normal Operating Temperature

* HEGO Sensor

2. Spark timing that is ******** from specification may increase exhaust gas temperature and shorten catalyst life. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

a. Check spark timing. Check base timing with spout disconnected. Set base timing to the specification on the vehicle emission decal.

b. Check computed timing with spout connected.

NOTE: COMPUTED TIMING IS EQUAL TO BASE TIMING PLUS 20° BTDC ± 3°.

3. Misfiring spark plugs may cause an unburned fuel air mixture to pass through the catalyst, which could cause higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Refer to the following procedure for service details. Check secondary ignition, hook the vehicle up to an engine analyzer and check for a secondary ignition misfire.

NOTE: SERVICE ANY ITEM THAT IS NOT PERFORMING AT PROPER SPECIFICATIONS BEFORE CONTINUING.

4. Fuel pressure that is too high may cause rich air fuel mixtures to pass through the catalyst which could cause higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

a. Check fuel pressure, install fuel pressure gauge, start and run the engine at idle. Fuel pressures between 28 and 34 PSI are typical (4.9L typically is 15 PSI higher).

b. Disconnect the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure typically jumps to 40 PSI ± 3 PSI (4.9L typically is 15 PSI higher). Visually inspect vacuum line for raw fuel.

NOTE: FUEL PRESSURES ABOVE THESE VALUES SHOULD BE CORRECTED. HOWEVER, THIS MAY NOT BE THE CAUSE OF THE CONCERN. SERVICE AS NECESSARY.

5. Throttle plates in the throttle body not returning to the proper closed position may cause excessive catalyst temperatures during downhill grades. Refer to the following procedure for service details. Visually inspect the throttle body and linkage for:

* Binding or sticking throttle linkage.

* Tight speed control linkage or cable.

* Vacuum line interference.

* Electrical harness interference.

NOTE: AFTERMARKET GOVERNORS, THROTTLE LINKAGE AND CABLES ASSOCIATED WITH POWER TAKE-OFF UNITS, MAY ALSO INTERFERE WITH PROPER THROTTLE RETURN. SERVICE AS NECESSARY.

6. It is extremely important that all systems related to the engine and emission systems operate properly.

a. Visually inspect the engine compartment to make sure all vacuum hoses and spark plug wires are properly routed and securely connected.

b. Inspect all wiring harnesses and connectors for insulation damage, burned, overheated, loose or broken conditions.

c. Verify proper operation of the thermactor system. Thermactor systems that fail to dump thermactor air to the atmosphere properly or at the correct time can cause high catalyst temperatures.

d. Visually inspect thermactor system for damaged or kinked hoses and perform a function test on following components: air control valve, check valve, silencer, filter and the air bypass solenoid.

e. Verify proper operation of the engine cooling system thermostat.

Same for this TSB;

TSB 95-5-21 Fuse "E" Inoperative - ABS Light On - Back-Up Lamps Inoperative - DRLs Inoperative - MIL On - Speedometer Inoperative

Publication Date: MARCH 13, 1995

LIGHT TRUCK: 1992-1995 BRONCO, F-150-350 SERIES

ISSUE: On some vehicles the HO2S wires in the 12A690 (subassembly of the 14B060 battery cable) harness may become chafed and the vehicle could exhibit any one of the following conditions:

ABS light on

Speedometer inoperative

Back-up lamps inoperative

Daytime running lamps inoperative

Trailer battery charge relay inoperative

MIL on, displaying Codes: 172, 173 or 41 for HO2S failure

Inadvertent PCM Self-Test

ACTION: Replace the damaged wire harness and HO2S sensor. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the solenoid terminal and positive battery cable from the starter.

3. Pull the cable downward to inspect the 12A690 harness for chafing, pinholes, etc. If necessary, remove the convolute and tape from the 12A690 harness located next to the lower RH side engine mount.

4. If the 12A690 harness is damaged, replace the 14B060 assembly (F5TZ-14300-EA) and the HO2S sensor (F4UZ-9F472-A).

5. Inspect Fuse "E" and replace if necessary (D9ZZ-14526-D).

6. Clear all codes stored in memory.

7. Retest and verify the concern has been resolved.



Image by Steve83