Ground Battery Cable ***

Christmas Greetings,

Dog gone Broncdildo won't start. I went to fixing the simple stuff first like cleaning the Ground wire and terminal. Bolt head snapped on the connection to the battery terminal so figured now would be a good time to replace the ground wire.

Here's where it get's strange...I see the wire make it's way toward the engine block. About 12 inches down I can see what looks like where someone spliced the wire together and covered with electrical tape. Another 12 inches and the wire has a metal clamp/tie down like thing which attaches to the frame. Another 12 inches from there and it attaches to a stud from the engine block.

So before I took off the wire I went to the auto parts store and they said it takes a 12 inch cable. This explains the spliced together section. Previous owner must have done the same thing.

But what is the deal with this metal clamp/tie down thing. The insulation from the wire is off where the tie down attached to the wire. Strange cause I don't see anything else being grounded at this point? I suppose there could be some other components grounded to the frame? Anyone got a good explanation for this strange ground cable arrangement?

Here's a picture of the cable

'91 Ford Bronco XLT 5.8L

I can't swear to it, but I think that your fuel pump grounds to the frame.

I have a similar grounding wire in my '90.

I think that most cars grond from the battery to the engine block, and then there is a strap from the block to the frame. On the bronco's it goes from the battery, and on its way to the block, grounds the frame.

yo;

I have a few pic Links on this in my site under Electrical, Ground

Such as by Cody:

Frame ground just inboard of the R spring tower. The black battery wire goes from the front bolt of the engine mount (on the block) to this tab & up to the battery post, where a smaller black wire goes to the core support, providing a continuous ground path between the engine, frame, battery, & body.



The black battery wire goes from the front bolt of the engine mount (on the block) to this tab & up to the battery post, where a smaller black wire goes to the core support, providing a continuous ground path between the engine, frame, battery, & body.



On older trucks, the engine terminal goes to a starter bolt.

-

Next is;



Frame & Battery pic in a 93; "...With the wheelwell gone, it's easy to inspect the frame ground, just inboard of the spring tower on top of the frame rail. The battery ground cable is stripped ~3/4" and a tab is soldered on so it can be bolted to the frame..."

Source: by Steve83

and higher on same side;

Intake Manifold to Block Strap & Wire that goes to firewall pic in a 96 5.0

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums



in 92-96 (should be 99.9% = to your yr.



12 14301 To Engine Ground

18 12A581 Body Grounds

19 14301 Chassis Ground

23 N802777-S36 Bolt for 14301 Frame Ground (same as in Steve83's pic)

1 11450 Starter Motor Relay Assembly

2 N803991-S36 *****

3 14A396 Cap

4 381561-S36 Nut and Washer Assembly

5 14B060 Cable Assembly

6 — Starter Solenoid Heat Shield 5.0L/5.8L Only (Part of 11002)

7 382747-S36 ***** and Washer Assembly

8 N805403-S100 Nut and Washer Assembly

9 11N087 Cover — Starter Solenoid (Red)

10 56558-S Bolt

11 34943-S36 Star Washer

13 12A690 Wire Assembly

14 11002 Starter Motor

15 — To Heated Oxygen Sensor for 5.0L/5.8L Under 8500, 5.8L over 8500 and 7.5L F-450

16 N621906-S36 Nut

17 N806925-S36MG Stud

20 — For Continuation Refer to Fender Apron, Right, Gasoline Engines Illustration Shown Previously in this Section

21 — To Heated Oxygen Sensor for 5.0L/5.8L Under 8500, 7.5L F-450

22 12A690 Wiring Assembly For 5.8L Bronco

24 9S286 Existing Gas Vapor Tube

25 10655 Battery

26 33799-S2 Nut (Auto Transmission)

27 5A212 Exhaust Pipe

You should definitely replace a spliced cable. If you can't get an OEM cable, then buy two cables, one with a battery lug and a lug for a bolt and another with a bolt lug on either end. Like Joe mentioned, run one from the battery to the engine block and then from the engine block to the frame. I did the same when I made some electrical changes to my truck.

Pictures of how mine is run attached, all viewed from underneath the front of the truck B) .

Good luck,

>-

Thanks for the info... I like the idea of going battery to block and then block to frame. I'm sure some of the OEM crap was designed that way just to save money. Now what happened to my 60 degree weather? ;-)

yo,

I'm pretty sure that Ford made the change from batty to starter bolt; to batty to end mount /frame because engine vibes and movement messed up the best of cable to lug/connector integrity & workmanship.

That engine Intake Manifold to Block Strap is prob an over- cost thing that Foird decided to use instead of a cable or wire.

I doubt that the spliced cable was OEM... you can see how Ford ran the cables from Cody & Steve's pics.

Thanks again for all the info. I went to Napa and discovered that they carry the exact Ground Cable as the OEM part. And yes that spliced cable that was there before was only 1/2 OEM. I think that was just a previous owners cheap and quick fix to replacing the whole cable.

And after replacing the starter the Broncdilldo is back up and running.

Now I've got to figure out why it's shaking so much with the front hubs engaged?