95 bronco in tank fuel pump not running

I want to check for 12 volts at the in tank fuel pump. there are 4 wires: black, pink, white, and a heavier gauge orange wire. Which one is the hot for the pump motor? If i would have to guess, it would be the orange wire. Thanks

Sorry, I don't know which wire, but when you turn the key to ON it will only get power for a couple of seconds, so you will need a helper. OR you can jumper the self test connector to ground and the fuel pump test pin. If the fuel pump relay is functioning normally, (your fuse is good, and the inertia switch is depressed) then you should have constant power at the pump.

Thanks Joe, the fuel pump relay sounds like it is functioning properly, i have already checked the inertia switch, it is in the down position. Where is the pump test pin?

I just checked the voltage at the inertia switch. I have 10 volts there, but not at the pump. Im gonna start checking grounds, and look for a wiring diagram online. This site is great, im glad i joined. I will continue to post problems and solutions as they arise, since the truck sat dead for 10 or 11 years im sure to have my share of problems with it. Thanks

yo Bud,

Check my reply in your other post about the **** Fuse,It has the wiring diagram by Ford via our good friend, Seabronc plus other stuff on da Fuel system

Thanks to Miesk5 and Seabronc for the wiring diagram. Im in the process of cleaning and greasing all grounds with anti corrosive grease. Still no power to the pump, im looking for the color codes online. I figure the white and pink wires must be for the sending unit side of the pump, and the heavier gauge orange wire is probably the hot for the pump motor. But i try not to assume anything, I will post back with what i find. Thanks for all your help, it is greatly appreciated. What service manual do you guys recomend for me to get?

yo,

In the wiring diagram the PK/BL (PINK/BLACK) is 12v + for Pump;

Y/W (YELLOW/WHITE) goes to gauge

yo,

I recommend buying the Ford Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting & (EVTM)/Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Manual

I bought the CD from Steve83 a few years ago and it has saved me 100's of $$$ and cost under $15.00!!!!

He doesn't come here anymore but you'll see his post on it in the For Sale Section

or E Bay

Don't go for the Chilton/Haynes stuff

you'll get same diagrams as Seabronc posted

and Ryan M like this for a 95;





and this is what it will appear as;

http://www.autoepc4you.com/catalog/view/?id=358

For the 96 (same as your year)

Fuel Sending Unit

The fuel tank sending unit consists of a variable screened resistor made up of a ceramic substrate. It is controlled by the action of an attached float in the fuel tank. When the fuel level is low, resistance in the fuel tank sending unit is low. When the fuel level is high, the resistance in the fuel tank sending unit is high. As the float moves from empty to full, the resistance will gradually and continuously increase.

The electric fuel delivery system is used on the 4.9L SFI, 5.0L, 5.8L, and 7.5L multiport fuel injection (MFI) engines and utilizes a fuel delivery module (FDM) assembly. The FDM unit includes a high-pressure fuel pump, venturi jet pump, supply check valve, and a shuttle selector valve all located internally in the module, which acts as a reservoir mounted from the fuel tank sending unit ******. The fuel tank sending unit attached to the reservoir body is a separately serviceable component.

In addition, the FDM system achieves a significant reduction in fuel system complexity and simplifies fuel line routing. The in-line fuel filter is located on the left-hand frame rail to provide service access.

The fuel level sensor (9275) for the 7.3L diesel engine operates the same as that described for the MFI engines, except for the following differences:

The sender electrical connector has two pins instead of four.

The venturi filter screen is replaced by an inverted flexible cone-like member.

The flexible cone ensures fuel is always being taken from the bottom of the fuel tank.

The cone has as part of its assembly a relief-bypass valve.

If the intake becomes obstructed at low temperatures the relief valve opens, allowing fuel to bypass the filter.

The fuel tank sending units used with all engines have a fuel return port that allows excess fuel delivered to the engine to be returned to the fuel tank.

see more of this @

My link

miesk5 said:

yo,

In the wiring diagram the PK/BL (PINK/BLACK) is 12v + for Pump;

Y/W (YELLOW/WHITE) goes to gauge

Click to expand...

Tanks! I mean.... Thanks, for the color codes just what i needed. I have my 12 volts at the areas we discussed, so i will check it at the tank tomorrow and let ya know. I forced the pump pin to ground and got nottin. So looks like ill prolly be droppin da tank. You guys are great!

yo,

ok, good so far that there is 12v around there

Ck that conn on top of tank;

consider cutting out a small floor pan section to test/and/or remove & replace the pump if needed

Cut-out Panel Fabrication for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement in an 83 Source: by A #1 Good Guy Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Ground Location in 92-96; "... pump and fuel level sender share a ground) At Rear cross member..."

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

da Connector info;

90-96 Overview & Diagram; "...For the 5.0L, 5.8L and 7.5L EFI engines, the in-tank mounted high pressure fuel pump is capable of supplying 105 liters (27.7 gallons) of fuel per hour at a working pressure of 270.0 kPa (39 psi). For the 4.9L EFI engine, the pump can supply 90 liters (23.7 gallons) per hour at 380 kPa (55 psi). The pump has an internal pressure relief valve to provide overpressure protection in the event the fuel flow becomes restricted. Overpressure is restricted to 850 kPa (123 psi)... The connector pinout at the bottom of this diagram DOES NOT APPLY TO '96 trucks since they're OBD-II..."

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/media/283459



FDM & Fuel Pressure

If the image is too small, click it.

The FDM connector shown is for '94-96; '90-93 use the older connector that mounts directly to the FDM plate.

For the 5.0L, 5.8L and 7.5L EFI engines, the in-tank mounted high pressure fuel pump is capable of supplying 105 liters (27.7 gallons) of fuel per hour at a working pressure of 270.0 kPa (39 psi). For the 4.9L EFI engine, the pump can supply 90 liters (23.7 gallons) per hour at 380 kPa (55 psi). The pump has an internal pressure relief valve to provide overpressure protection in the event the fuel flow becomes restricted. Overpressure is restricted to 850 kPa (123 psi).

Connector Location Diagram, in 92-96 (part of Keyless Entry Wiring Diagram for 92-96; scroll to the right); C200, C1048 (E4OD), C911 (left vanity mirror lamp), C271 (inertia fuel shutoff, C268, C509, C203, & C228, C912 (right vanity mirror lamp), right power mirror, C601 or C608, C404 (rear axle sensor-VSS/ABS), C311 & C310 (rear window defroster), manual transmission, C166 (back-up lamp switch), C117, C441 (fuel pump module), C429 (tailgate power window switch), tailgate window switch, C428 (tailgate latch switch, key operated), G401, C209, G200, C213, C221/C222/C223 (electronic shift control module), C220, transfer case assembly, to C161 (4x4 high/low indicator switch), C1020 (BW 1356 Electric Shift on the Fly transfer case (ESOF) output shaft speed (OSS) sensor location), C1012 (transmission range sensor(TR/MLPS), C214, C504 (left door courtesy lamp), C502 (left door lock motor), C503 (window/door lock control switch master, left), C500 (left window motor), C507 (left door speaker)

Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/media/253951_1

==

finally had some time to continue troubleshooting. Got my 12 volts at the pump, looks like ill be droppin the tank in this freezing cold weather. What a wonderful day for an exorcism..............Ha Ha! Thanks to everyone for the info!

yo,

ok

so, consider da FLOOR PAN Cut-out Panel Fabrication for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement in an 83 Source: by A #1 Good Guy Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Will make life...warmer than laying on your back

use brass punch on lock ring!

buy new Sending Unit Lock Ring, 3 5/8"

& seal

our sponsor has the parts;

Jeff's Bronco Graveyard

miesk5 said:

yo,

ok

so, consider da FLOOR PAN Cut-out Panel Fabrication for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement in an 83 Source: by A #1 Good Guy Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Will make life...warmer than laying on your back

use brass punch on lock ring!

buy new Sending Unit Lock Ring, 3 5/8"

& seal

our sponsor has the parts;

Jeff's Bronco Graveyard

Click to expand...

I thought about the access panel, and i think its a great modification. However, i think i should drop the tank anyway at this point, since the vehicle sat for 11 years. Water, (caused by condensation), rust, and whatever else is in there, will contaminate the new fuel system. Next time around i will cut out the bed panel. Hopefully by using motorcraft parts, i wont be replacing it again anytime soon.

budster 95 said:

Thanks Joe, the fuel pump relay sounds like it is functioning properly, i have already checked the inertia switch, it is in the down position. Where is the pump test pin?

Click to expand...

Sorry Budster for the ten day delay, but here is a picture of the self test connector with the fuel pump test pin labeled. The self test connector is located under the hood next to the fuel pump relay and EEC relay (driver's side) between the wheel well, and the brake master cylinder.

BroncoJoe19 said:

Sorry Budster for the ten day delay, but here is a picture of the self test connector with the fuel pump test pin labeled. The self test connector is located under the hood next to the fuel pump relay and EEC relay (driver's side) between the wheel well, and the brake master cylinder.

View attachment 10420

Click to expand...

Thanks just the same, i did manage to find it. I have my 12 volts at the in tank pump. Gonna drop the tank, and clean it out while replacing the pump since its been sittin for the last 11 years. 89,000 miles, original owner past away. One good thing is, it didnt see road salt from the harsh winters up here for quite some time, so rust is minimal.

budster 95 said:

Thanks just the same, i did manage to find it. I have my 12 volts at the in tank pump. Gonna drop the tank, and clean it out while replacing the pump since its been sittin for the last 11 years. 89,000 miles, original owner past away. One good thing is, it didnt see road salt from the harsh winters up here for quite some time, so rust is minimal.

Click to expand...

On second thought, it would be much easier to cut out the floor pan after the tank is dropped. Thats the plan now.

Im glad i dropped the tank, its a leaker! Fuel gushing out from the seam.